SteveJ

I took my Z out today to visit a friend's new warehouse. It might be the last night driving day of the year, so I wanted to take advantage of it. As several of us sat around swapping stories, photos and videos, I admired the view in front of me and decided to take a photo.

Before installing it, I suggest testing it with an ohmmeter.

The 260Z ballast resistor is NLA. You might be able to get away with a 240Z ballast resistor. You would have to move the start wire over to the same terminal as the coil wire. The problem with that is that I don't know why they introduced a small amount of resistance in the starting circuit. If you're worried about that, there is a kludge I could describe to you, but it's not very elegant.

Yes, I've had that happen before. Sometimes parts are NLA, but they don't show up in the online searches as such.

Well, if the 1/2 x 20 is correct, this would probably work: https://www.amazon.com/Needa-Parts-652036-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CHL58M Or this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-d1az-6730-a/overview/

For the last couple of years, I've been playing around with action cameras. Most of the ones I have purchased can double as a dash cam, though without some of the extra features. For instance, you can have it record with a time and date stamp and loop record in 3 or 5 minute intervals. Most of the "4K" action cameras can accept a 64GB mini SD card. You can choose settings to turn on/off when plugged/unplugged into external power, and many have a setting to start recording on a shock sensor. A lot of them have stabilization settings to reduce the effects of vibration. Most of these cameras have wifi connectivity so you can connect it to your smart phone...Oh, never mind, @Captain Obvious? I have two of these and use one as a dash cam in my daily driver: https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-DB0923-Underwater-Rechargeable-Accessories/dp/B07314N12V. For that price, you could get two and have cameras front & rear. You would also probably want a windshield mount like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW9UBDM to attach it to your windshield

They look to be in good shape. You might be able to get some good coin via ebay. Just make sure if you go that route, that you state in your ad that they are for a 77 or 78 only.

Sarah, Keep in mind that if you decide to get back into the Z world, the door is open, and there is a place for you at the table. Between you, @Arne, and @sblake01 (to name just a few), it's always sad to hear about a good contributor to the forum moving away from Z cars. While we know you guys still visit, it's not as much fun as when you were hanging out here all of the time.

There was a hint in my first reply if you look again...

Thank you @qz16. I made a PDF of your post so I can contemplate doing it myself in the next couple of years.

It depends upon what you're trying to do. If there were only someone who lived not that far away from you who understands S30 wiring...

Try buying a genuine original splash pan...

And I think both of you have seen my garage...

Oh, you can find a copy of the wiring diagram in the first link in my signature. Just look for the electrical section. You can also find a copy of the factory service manual in the second link in my signature. Good luck.

You may need a new relay for the hazard lights. If the car is stock, you should see to relays that look the same. They are under the driver's side of the dash. They look similar to the relay in this picture: One is for the turn signals, and the other is for the hazard lights. Try swapping the two relays, and see if the hazard lights work. If it is bad, you could get a flasher relay like this one: https://www.amazon.com/DOCA-Flasher-Electronic-Compatible-Warning/dp/B07DF94B66.

Get at least a test light. Turn the key to On. Clip the wire on the test light to chassis ground. A common point is one of the bolts on the shock tower. There are three wires on the ballast resistor: white/black, black/blue, and black white. With the key in the On position, you should have voltage at the black/white wire. It has the arrow next to it in the picture Lift the cap on the black/white wire and touch the pointer of the test light to the wire. If the test light lights up, lift the cap on the white/black wire (opposite side of the resistor from the arrow) and touch the test light to that wire. If you didn't have a light on the black/white wire, you have a loose/bad connection or bad ignition switch. You might want to talk to me on the phone about tracking that down. If you have a light on the black/white but not on the white/black, you have a bad ballast resistor. You can move the black/white wire to the same terminal as the white/black, but you shouldn't run it long that way.

With a multimeter or test light it would be easier to check at the ballast resistor first.

PM sent

Do you have a multimeter or test light?

Maybe 11:27:16. That gets the hands less than .05 degrees out from 180...

I need to remember to archive that photo. Of course, I was hoping you'd see this thread and post that photo.

The distributor is WAY out of wack here. Please note in the attached photo where the vacuum advance is on my distributor (ZX distributor). You need to take a few steps back. Make sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke, align the oil pump properly and re-install the distributor. Did your car always have the ZX distributor, or did you do the conversion? Was a ZX distributor mounting block used?

Mark, as someone who drives on Georgia 400 every day, I can assure you that Georgians believe those are the speed limit signs. You should see how crazy it gets on I-675.

I wish I had known you wanted to change springs & shocks. We could have done that at my place.

The images you see on this thread are merely plucked from the sphincters of random people with no affiliation to Nissan. Any resemblance to future Nissan designs is merely coincidence.