SteveJ

The package arrived today. I had to unbox it to take photos.

I think you may have been looking at the wrong page in the parts manual. (Note I am basing all of my response on the assumption that you are talking about the 5/77 car listed in your signature.) The wiring diagram in the copy of the 77 FSM downloaded from XenonZCar shows 3 brown and 1 black for the fusible link blocks and 2 green for the fuel injection. The page from the parts manual online for the 77/78 that has the fusible link blocks agrees.

I just received notice that the shipping label has been prepared. The fun will commence soon. ?

You may want to look at the Hybridz thread: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS798US798&ei=H5KCXIr8Kaal_QaB-bXQBA&q="vintage+dashes"+240Z&oq="vintage+dashes"+240Z&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39.123747.126306..126496...0.0..0.57.102.2......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.zRWAv9YIR_A

Are you conflating two different products? This thread is focused on the 280Z. As stated in post #32, they are having mold issues with the 280Z dash. The 240Z dash was the first developed. From your post, it makes me think that they have that one down and have some stock on hand.

https://www.searchtempest.com/search?search_string=240Z&category=8&subcat=cta&hasPic=&srchType=T&minAsk=&maxAsk=1000&autoMake=&autoModel=&minYear=&maxYear=&minAutoMiles=&maxAutoMiles=&cityselect=zip&location=30506&maxDist=50000&region_us=1&region_can=1&region_mex=1&Region=combined&addCities=&subCities=

I should add that it's the heat sink that interferes with the stock headlight bracket. The aftermarket headlight brackets I found on ebay do not have the clearance issues.

All of the LED headlights I have played with have good sized heat sinks. The LED bulbs I installed in my daily driver have fans. All lights generate heat by nature. With the semiconductors, it's important to prevent the heat from building up too much.

H4 lights are your alternative. The problem is that if you have dirty connectors or a dirty switch, light output will be diminished due to the voltage drop. That's why a lot of us have installed relays into our cars.

Be aware that the MSA headlight relay kit will not work for the 280Z without modifications. Contact @Zs-ondabrain. Dave designed the kit and has modified the kit for 260Z & 280Z owners. The reason for the relays is in my first response in this thread. So far I haven't needed the anti flicker kits for any of the LED headlights I have tried, but I already had relays in the circuit.

Like I said before the headlight retaining ring (called a headlight bracket in this ebay listing and is 26016-04100 in the carpartsmanual link) makes a difference. The one in the ebay link I provided allows for the cooling fins on the LED headlight.

Having installed the Black Dragon H4 kit and various LED headlights into a 260Z, I'm not sure what the issue may be. They all fit inside the headlight assembly body like the one pictured. The part number, 26075-E4100, is for the 280Z, and I don't know if it differs in dimension from the 260Z assembly body. I wouldn't think there would be that much of a difference. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/head-lamp

What do you mean by modify/lengthen? There are lots of 7 inch LED headlights on the market. Thank the Jeep enthusiasts. The stock retaining rings will have an issue with the cooling fins on some of those headlights. I found that replacement retaining rings can work around that issue. The biggest problem is that the S30 switches the ground to go between high and low beam. Most LED headlights assume the positive side is what switches. Since the D in LED stands for diode, that means that the headlight probably won't work right unless you configure the headlight circuit to use relays that switch the positive on the headlights. If this seems confusing, go with H4 headlights.

Loss of signal on the oil pressure switch. Your oil pressure sender has two posts. One goes to the oil pressure gauge. That one will have variable resistance. The other post is linked to a switch. When you have enough oil pressure, the switch closes and provides a path to ground. It's a way of killing the fuel pump if the engine stops running. A bad sender or low oil pressure in the engine could cause the pump to cut out.

It seems like it's not too unusual for a rebuilt alternator to test bad. See if they will bench test the next one before you install it. There's no use in wasting time swapping in another bad part. At least they gave you an alternator correct for your car. If you have a trickle charger, put your new battery on that before testing again. The batteries at a parts place can sit there a long time before they are bought.

I went back to the top of the thread and saw you have a 78. Are you sure the new alternator is internally regulated? It should have been rated at 60A. If you got a 50A or 40A alternator, it probably doesn't have an internal voltage regulator. If that is the case, your voltage would read low since there is nothing to excite the field on the alternator. Page EE-20 describes how to test. Prior to testing, make sure the battery is fully charged and make sure you have a good ground on your alternator. Do a resistance test from the E terminal (ground) on the alternator to the negative battery post. It should only be about 1 ohm or less.

Please go to the top right of your screen where your username is. Click on it, and choose Account Settings. In the left hand column of the screen, you will see Signature. Click on that and add the year of your car to your signature. Without that bit of knowledge, I'm not sure if you're doing a bad job of throwing parts at a problem or a terrible job of throwing parts at a problem. In your voltage testing, you do not say what RPM the car was running when you took your measurements. That makes a difference. Look at the EE section of the factory service manual for your year and read what it says about testing.

Excellent. When diagnosing an electrical issue, you can start at the battery positive and work your way to ground, start at the ground and work your way to battery positive, or start in the middle and work in one direction or another. Since we know the car runs, make sure you set the engine to top dead center before swapping the distributor. Take a photo of the rotor so you are sure how it is oriented. Make sure you have a good ground for the new distributor, too.

What parts did you remove from the distributor? Are you sure the TIU isn't getting a signal from the distributor? Did you unplug the TIU? When asking for help, it is good to give specific answers to questions asked. We need to know EXACTLY what you did because we can't see it ourselves. It's the details you leave out that make responses wild guesses instead of clear diagnostics. Let me give you an example. I went to a friend's house to help with an ignition issue on a 260Z. He said the car would start but die when the key went to run. From that, I had a clear idea of where to start looking for the problem. However, the car would not start when I was at his house. I tried to diagnose the issue, but I was stumped about the sudden lack of spark. My diagnostics suggested I look at the TIU, but it was not in the passenger footwell. Eventually it came out that the son had removed the aftermarket AC, and the TIU had been re-mounted by a previous owner onto the mounting bracket for the evaporator. The son did not think it was an important detail that he had been removing parts from the car. After we re-installed the TIU, I was able to confirm my diagnosis, and they had a running 260Z. The Crane 3000 was an improvement over the points based system in my 240Z, but that is a completely different setup from yours. Most of the improvement was due to the fact that I suck at setting points. I don't need a Crane ignition on my 260Z since a previous owner did the ZX distributor/ignition swap into the car, and that ignition works fine, so I cannot comment on performance differences. I cannot tell what the issue is with for sure your tachometer because you didn't answer my questions in my previous post.

The 260Z already has an electronic ignition, so that will limit your gains right there. Having used a Crane 3000 on a 240Z in the past (like over 20 years ago...), I recall the instructions talking about removing the points, etc. What modifications did you do to the 260Z distributor since it does not have points? Did you unplug the transistor ignition unit (TIU)? For the 260Z and 280Z, the reluctor in the distributor triggers the TIU. The TIU completes the path to ground that causes the energy stored in the coil to be released to cause a spark. This circuit for grounding is monitored by the tachometer for the pulse needed to indicate the RPM of the engine. In order to get the tachometer to function properly, you would have to modify the wiring so the wire that the tach uses to monitor the TIU is monitoring the ground leg of the Crane.

The fact that you have voltage at the coil eliminates the tachometer swap as a problem. Did the voltage fluctuate when cranking the engine. If it stayed at 9VDC, then you're still missing the path to ground for the spark to happen. Either the points are not closing, or the circuit from the negative of the coil to ground (that goes through the points) is compromised.

First things first. Have you verified whether or not you have voltage at the coil as I described for you to test?

There appears to be a significant disconnect between what I described and what you did. For resistance, you should start with the lowest setting. That would be 200Ω and not 2MΩ. This is important. In my previous post, I said I measured 78.7Ω across the coil. That would be 0.0000787MΩ, or on your display, 0.00MΩ. This is important. If the coil was shorted out, the resistance would be much less than 78.7Ω, but your meter would still give you the same reading as a good coil if you use the 2MΩ scale. As for the test that you said failed, what were you using for your 12VDC source? Did you hear a click in the relay (possibly 2 clicks)? Try this test: Put the positive from the 12VDC source on pin 95. Connect the negative to pins 94 and 96. Put your meter on the 200Ω setting and measure resistance across 91 and 97. Here is the theory of operation for that relay: If there is voltage across pins 95 and 94, the coil is energized, and the the contact near pin 96 closes. Now there should be voltage across pins 95 and 96, and the second coil is energized. That causes the relay to move the switch that connects 91 and 95 so that it now connects 91 and 97. This is all relatively binary. Either the circuit is open or closed. Either the coil is energized, or it is not. If there is a voltage drop, it could be from the contact between 91 and 97 getting pitted or dirty so that there is not good contact. This would act like a resistor in the circuit. If the car runs, the relay works. However, the fuel pressure should not be at 48 PSI. I think you're barking up the wrong tree.

Now it looks as though you may have a 78 280Z. The PITA is that the wiring diagram doesn't have the pins numbered. There is some numbering on EF-26, so I will use that. Pins 73 & 74 are a coil. You should have some resistance. I don't have the spec for that coil handy, but I measured a couple of standard automotive relays. The coil on one relay measured about 83.6Ω, and the other was 78.7Ω Pins 90 and 91 also are for a coil. There should be resistance. Pins 94 to 95 I believe are for another coil. Again, you should have resistance. Pins 91 to 95 are for a normally closed contact. With the relay unplugged, you should have continuity (nearly 0Ω resistance) across those pins. Search through the old posts on this site. I know I have talked about these relays in the past. Oh, and clean your old connectors. Many people swear by Caig Deoxit.