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About jj280z

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  • Member ID: 33656

  • Rank: ApprentiZe

  • Content Count: 9

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  • Joined: 04/21/2019

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    Richardson, TX

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ApprentiZe (3/14)

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  1. Per my attached pictures, I am having a problem getting the driver's side of the hood to sit down flush with the mating fender. I tried adjusting and readjusting the hinges, but that really didn't help. My question is: does it make sense to take of the left torsion bar that connects to the left hinge and readjust/bend/reform so that the hood will sit flat? When the hood is down, the front left side sits up right over where the hinge is. You can push down on the hood at that point, but it will want to spring back. Anyone have any suggestions to fix this problem? These last 2 pictures show that the torsion bar that goes under the passenger side driving light has a healthy gap whereas the driving light on the driver's side has no gap. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. I ran a compression check of the L28 engine and found that it ranged from 125-145 psi. The manual indicates a compression ratio of 8.3:1, but I could not find anywhere what the psi value should be. Is what I found with my compression gauge normal or is it low?
  3. About a year ago I experienced hesitation when I had the car on the highway at about 70 mph. I got back home and asked for advice on where to look in the system. I got a response to remove the fuel filter and blow it out with compressed air. I did that and that seemed to be the end of the problem. Now, a couple of weeks back I had the same thing happen, so I got the car back home and took off the fuel filter and did the same thing as before. I got a lot of particulate come out as I emptied the filter and then applied compressed air. I then took the car out the next week and it was worse than before. I took the filter off and got at least as much junk as before. My questions are as follows: Where is a good website/place to go find new metal fuel lines? How many fuel lines are there (pick up and return)? I supposedly had someone redo my tank and recoat it so that it was good to go. Are there any fuels that are harder on the coating than other fuels or additives? Should I suspect anything else like the fuel pump? It appears to be doing what it has always been doing. I didn't really want to pull the fuel lines off until I found some place to replace these hoses if I needed to do that. Any suggestions and pointers are appreciated.
  4. I had the engine and front end redone a couple of years ago and noticed that when I drove it for the first time that I could hear the fuel pump. It seemed loud and I don't remember hearing it from my memory of 20+ years ago. The first question I have is whether I should be able to hear it when in the driver's seat? If not, is that a sign that I should replace it? It has been maJJking this noise for over 2 years and I drive it about 10-15 miles a week. I then noticed a couple of weeks ago that as I got on the highway to go 60-70 mph and put it under some load that it started hesitating. I backed off and got it back to the garage and it was idling fine. My second incident happened a week ago as I was in third gear traveling at 35-45. It was really stumbling badly. I shifted to 4 th gear and put it under some load and it stumbled again. I backed off the throttle (below 2000 rpm) and got it back to the garage. Yesterday, I had it out and traveled no more than 40-45 mph and noticed no such instance as above, but I did keep the rpm below 2200 or so. Does this sound like an electric fuel pump problem? When a fuel pump goes bad, does it go bad all at once or does it go in stages some times? Would 100 LL fuel be a problem to run? I usually mix it with pump gas ethanol free. Any insight would be appreciated. Regards, JJ 75 280Z
  5. What I found after I checked the wiring bundles from the tail lights to underneath the glove box was apparent continuity. The problem appears to be the connection underneath the steering column as high lighted in the attached file. Because the car had been sitting around a long time, I am guessing that a thin layer of oxidation built up on the connecter terminals. I unplugged and plugged the connecter back together several times and it started to work. The parking lights and tail lights are terminals #4 & #5 on the harness shown high lighted. 0408_001.pdf
  6. I have attached several pictures showing the ground connection in the rear of the car. The connection looked clean, but I gave it a quick brushing any way. I also took out the passenger seat to get a look at the wiring bundle connections. I unplugged them and then reconnected them, but with no luck. The first question I have is where is the other end of the ground wire go and how can I check the continuity? The second question is how do I check the continuity of each of the wires in the 2 harnesses shown? If the continuity is positive for questions 1 & 2, what should I look at next?
  7. Thanks all for the help and the link to the shop manual. I'll leave a response when I get the lights working.
  8. The parking lights do not come on either. The only lights that come on are the head lights. Do the access panels that have plastic rivets just pop off? I was hesitant to pull off these panels if I was going to have to replace the rivets.
  9. My head lights, turn signals front and back, brake lights, and back up lights all work, but the tail lights and the running lights on the fenders and quarter panels are not working. Someone I was talking to about this issue indicated I needed to check to see if the ground wires were in good order. My first question is where the ground wire would be? How do I check electrically? My second question is if the ground wire is good what else could be the problem?
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