Yarb

That particular distributor is the same one they sell on EBay. Two lead hook up. Red positive side of the coil, black negative . No ballast resistor. Everything is internal and as you can imagine not very well made but will possibly provide hints.

You are not going to uncover anything until the head is removed IMO. If you don’t have a competent machine shop in Panama I’m sure there’s a member on the forum that can recommend a shop here in the states closer to you where it can be disassembled and diagnosed.

Were the guides and seats replaced during the build to handle unleaded fuel

From past experience with what you are dealing with is the 3:90 ratio the engine will run at 3k rpm on the highway between 60&65 mph. 3:73 is probably optimal if you want to bring it down a bit. Although getting to that speed the 3:90 gets you there quickly.

View Advert 1978 280Z Door jam switch grommets Car is finally in the body shop and moving along nicely. They haven’t removed the switch assemblies yet but we’re concerned about the grommets by removing them without destroying them. With that in mind I am looking for another set in good condition. An option was to tape them off but I would rather it have a cleaner look. Switches aren’t necessary but will buy them as a set if needed. Pic provided by @SteveJ for reference. Thanks in advance. Offered by: Yarb Date 09/04/2024 Price $123 Category Parts Wanted Year 1978 Model 280z

Download The FSM from this site if you haven’t already and that will give you the information you are looking for.

I have an 83ZX motor very reasonable but getting it across the country would be expensive!!

@DocDavis I asked earlier about the brakes in general whether or not you might have air in the system. I have a similar system but using the 240sx calipers. It’s a very tight fit. I had to maneuver mine to keep the cable from binding. There have been posts in the past where guys flip flopped the cables left to right to eliminate this.

Preface your question with @stevej and he will get a notification. Easiest way to communicate with members. Unless he logs on he will not see it.

And the car drives and brakes correctly with good pedal pressure? If not you could have a fluid/air issue at the rear calipers.

@SteveJ

Please provide more information and pics.

Historian/Sr. Research Analyst back at work!!

Great observation

@Terrapin Z

Friend, It’s worth a shot at that price. Worse scenario re-sell it.

Sometimes when your called out you get a response when it will come back to bite you. IMO

A little sand blast hand gun would take care of that!!

From what we have seen that wasn’t the problem. Someone suggested you check the chokes that was all. You’re going to need a meter and start testing the ignition system and go from there IMO. If number 4 is fouling concentrate on that. #4 plug wire. #4 contact inside and outside the cap etc. etc.

They might have gone bad is @siteunseen point.

There are alignment shops that have a laser system that can dial them in from what I’ve read. Not sure where or how they choose a base line. The article I read was about AWD vehicles and 4 wheel steering similar to the 300zx turbo. Didn’t realize Nissan manufactured one until the Parts manager mentioned they had one in the shop.

Doesn’t sound like you have a choke problem. I have been following the thread and you might want to go back and look what others have suggested concerning the ignition?

There’s a story behind that and I’m pretty sure that will be answered in good time.

That’s what I I read at the time was that he would have a follow up.

I think it might have something to do with interference in the radio circuit . Mounts next to the coil itself. @SteveJ