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Found 3 results

  1. I noticed today that MSA has begin to offer refurbished differential hanger brackets on an exchange basis. In their write-up on these new parts, they discuss applications in relation to solving the differential 'clunk' problem and emphasize that Series 1 owners will need to install the Series 2 differential hanger parts and moustache bar in order to be able to use the Series 2 front insulator (I believe that this is because the arrestor strap won't fit otherwise). This made me curious, so I started to look around some of the commonly-used parts vendors' websites to see if anyone was offering the Nissan Series 1 part (PN 55415-E4102, for reference). A quick look turned up 'not available' at Rock Auto and Chesapeake Nissan. Z-Car Source of Arizona offers only used units, and only on special order. Courtesy Nissan lists the part and a price, but that doesn't mean they have it or can get it (I haven't asked them yet). MSA lists it, but warns that it "...has been discontinued by Nissan or another manufacturer, and we are currently in the process of locating an alternate supplier or having the item reproduced" So: Is a new OE Series 1 diff mount/insulator definitely NLA ? If so, are there any known aftermarket options?
  2. Some of you may remember that I bought a hot Rebello motor for my early 260z and when I first started it there was a clunking sound. Luckily that problem ended up being a clutch slave cylinder bolt that was too long and it was resolved pretty easily. Since then I put about 200 miles on the new motor and its been reliable. Yesterday I went to my garage to start the car for work and after running for about a minute there was a horrific clunking sound so I shut it down immediately and took the truck to work. Its been cold (for the middle of California) in the low 30's (about 0 Celsius) but in the garage I estimate the temp to be in the mid 40's. After work I took out all of the spark plugs and rotated the motor by hand to see if i could feel/hear any interference and the motor spun nicely. With the spark plugs still removed I cranked the motor with the starter and still everything ran smooth. After consulting with the elders I put new plugs in the car and attempted to start it again, this time on video. As you can see the car starts and runs for about 30 seconds at about 1100 RPM before the noise kicks in. What should I be looking for?
  3. This is a lot tougher than it should be, I have read a bazillion threads and I guess I did not realze what I was getting in to..First, new U joints on the half shafts, one was brinnelled and the bolts at the hub end were loose, and I thought Ah haa..well nope did'nt fix it. Then I built a Ron Tyler mount....did'nt do it..then I tried the brand new bolts on the drive shaft that has nylock nuts,,,loose! what, also they were 5/16 SAE, should've been 8 mm X 30's..replaced them...Nope!! then ordered moustache bar bushings and while I was waiting one them I crawled under the car with it in Low gear and yanked the wheels around..guess what! The dang rear studs were loose on the rear diff mount...I replaced the bushings any way...Got it!!!! I know all of you have heard all of this before..Check it all...do it at one time and tighten the pooey out of every nut and bolt..use locktite...heck use red locktite..your clunk can be clunked!!:classic:
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