Yarb

This is a stretch mind you, Which way is the arrow pointing on the booster check valve. I believe it needs to be pointed to the intake manifold. I had a similar problem in the past. I realize it’s a Strech.

Hopefully that’s the problem it would be an easy fix!

Have you tried the bleeders with check valve in them?

https://www.amazon.com/YAMAKATO-Fiberglass-Protection-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B0DZXC2GLH 1/4” should work fine

Have you tried to run a tap in there yet. I apologize if you mentioned it earlier?

Scrap the headers in my opinion and drill out the stud with a smaller diameter bit. Soak the stud after it’s drilled with Kano Kroil. It’s a penetrating oil available on AMZ. Works fantastic. Keep soaking it for a day or two. Get an easy out and remove the rest of the stud. Retap and be done. That stud tends to break more often than any other on these engines. Spray ever bolt on that exhaust at the same time before you attempt to remove anything IMO.

Soo, What was the issue?

Grab a meter or test light and see if your getting voltage.

Try another bulb

Is this the what I call the sub harness that has the cold start and ECU temp sensor? If so those were available as a unit. Can’t remember where I bought mine but it was the full assembly. Very common to cause ECU issues.

Make a post on the wanted list in our classified section.

The safety net test did not go well.

Post the pics please. Belmetric is a source for screws. How did you come about your measurements on the screws?

That guy is amazing. After seeing that video if the springs are shot that would have to be addressed first. Were you having any issues before disassembling?

Irregardless how it looks you need two or three would be great while it’s being pushed down on both sides at the same time. as far as it will go then tighten the hinges. Mine dropped below the line while pushing both sides at once. The hinges will spring back a little bit to bring it up. That was my case recently. Had 3 guys and the grille was removed.

Some folks will argue that by doing that you introduce the oily vapors back into the engine. There are catch cans although pricy can return the air to the air box, but you need vacuum for that. Watch the videos on you tube and there are some on “ Motion Raceworks” Website. Will give you a better idea of the initial purpose was not to introduce the vapors back into the engine to avoid valve train issues and they claim it creates a hp increase. Nominal I’m sure. That’s what I’ve found in the past couple of days. Ton of information out there.

@RIP260Z So if I understand correctly, The fitting in the pic was originally the same size as the”Welch”plug. Forgive me if I misunderstood. Seems extremely large. Thanks for the input.

So much for AC I guess. Great idea if you’re not running air or a track car.

Problem is you need a vacuum source from somewhere. It’s either the intake or the exhaust. If you’re getting 16 plus ounces of oil in that can on a regular basis you have a much bigger problem.

The Nissan p/n is 00933-N1401A for the freeze plug or Welch plug if you prefer. $2.50 at your local dealer. Edit. P/N is incorrect. Picked up the plugs and they are too large. Ended up with the water galley plug instead.

In my search for options I found a “AN bung” that could be welded to a freeze plug and drill a hole on the back side. Attach it to the block and go from there. I think I’m going to give that a shot. Wish I had thought of that while it was on the engine stand!!🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-22765-Vented-Fitting-Integral/dp/B0FDL8R2M7

https://motionraceworks.com/products/motion-raceworks-top-loader-billet-oil-catch-can-clear-anodized-dual-10-an-port-32-100clr Here’s an idea that looks plausible. Route both upper and lower ports to the can. Read through the description and present your feedback. Thanks

I’m sort of surprised with the number of folks that run triple carbs there isn’t a few kits out there that give more options. In pics I’ve seen both upper and lower locations running to a catch can. Now I need to research whether or not some cans are passive or there are some variety that use vacuum as well.

@Captain Obvious In my case example, There aren’t any provisions other than one 1/4” bspt vacuum port intended for the brake booster. Running triple carbs presents a problem. Eiji intentionally capped it when he built my engine. I would think if you did tap another hole in the intake you would have an imbalanced vacuum issue on one cylinder. Thoughts?

The intake manifold at least from my experience with OER does not have a provision for crankcase ventilation. Upon research I ‘ve found and recommendations from the builder is to go one of the two routes I mentioned earlier.