jonbill

The oil jet on the front of the block is actually a supply (from the head) to the chain tensioner, so you only need consider opening up the side one. AIUI, the jet is there to ensure adequate pressure to the bearings. The flow should be enough for a std cam. I opened the jet up on mine by 1mm I think it was, and set it to idle at 1000rpm to ensure adequate flow.

Should be 11:25 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61123-240z-cranks-but-won’t-start/#comment-562117 Looks about right to me, did you give it 3 pumps of the throttle before cranking? Are the plugs wet or dry?

There's a long rambling thread here about the journey. Many of the "facts" I stated in it were my best guess at the time 😀 Post in thread 'Speeduino installation' https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/speeduino-installation.23302/post-300998

Fwiw, I converted from distributor&carbs to EFI and wasted spark for about £2200 all in. Chinese ITBs, Speeduino ECU and lots of second hand ebay bits. It was quite a lot of work though.

Turbo stroker, best of both worlds?

The carb side is the thrust side so will always get the worst of any scuffing.

It wasn't too much of a disaster, Mori san was happy to supply a single piston (and the bore cleaned up ok with the flexi hone).

A brake fluid leak from the MC into the brake booster into inlet #6 caused this a few years ago. It doesn't take much to remove the oil leading to heat leading to expansion and more heat and expansion!

Bezel maybe?

No I think they're washers for mounting the glass on the sash that those arms lift. They're under these black metal washers.

I'm sure it'll be obvious once you open it up. Something simple like missing oil rings!

Have you checked the spark plugs? Might be worth a look to see if its all cylinders or not.

Well isn't CO clever.

I'll have to check mine - never noticed an o ring.

I'd bet your oil cap is cracked.

Tap the reservoir hole and put a little bolt in there. The better approach to this problem is buy a new MC.

If you get another engine, it'll probably work and you can drive your car. and used engines are cheap. get it with the inlet manifold too in case that's where the problem is. Then you or someone else can leisurely work out whats wrong with this engine.

i think the 8 years show that guesses from the forum isn't going fix it. Can you not just get another engine?

Isn't that what stock looks like on US cars?

Cut a couple of coils off the springs. (With a cutting disc)

Well I did assemble the ECU for the full diy experience, but you can get preassembled ones too. I use the standard Speeduino firmware and tuned it myself on the road.

36-1 crank trigger wheel, TPS, air temp and coolant temp sensors and Speeduino ECU. FAJS 45mm ITBs, Nissan sport manifold.

i must say, I switched from triple Dellortos to ITBs and fuel injection, and I found it pretty straightforward; much easier than tuning the carbs.

in the long, painful history of this engine, have you checked the valve stem seals ? 4 isn't going to be getting extra fuel from the carbs, so it must be oil, and at idle, the valve stem seals are a good candidate.

less torque on the bolts won't mean more clearance and less oil pressure. but you might need new bolts - they may have stretched at that excess torque.