jonbill

I guess the focus here is the std distributor/single coil setup? multiple coils of course allows longer dwell per coil and stronger sparks.

sounds like the map needs more work to me.

no need to drain the oil. sender is above the level.

you'll need a new clutch release collar to match the clutch (assuming your old clutch is 225mm) might be better off getting a 240mm flywheel too.

what was the clutch sold as for? I have a XTD RB25 clutch and flywheel in my Z and the bolts and dowels only line up in one position. (i. e. no rotational symmetry).

Here's my old r200 open diff. You can see the end of the shaft that carries the spider gears and its a bit chewed from the roll pin breaking and the shaft rattling around.

open diff? sounds like the roll pin that holds the spider gears failed.

ah makes sense. it can be too rich at idle and lean elsewhere. also worth checking ignition timing.

whats the carb setup? triples or twin SU? for 3&4 to be richer than the rest is unusual on twin SU. maybe the problem isnt 3&4 but 1,2,5,6 being lean. I'd start with working out why all the cylinders aren't the same.

looks pretty normal to me. temperature looks high tho!

did you check the new thermostat before installing it? new ones can be bad. Also, is the valve central in the thermostat or offset to one side? if offset, I think its possible to install it so it can't open fully. (one side of the thermostat housing is shallower)

you could fit a wideband o2 and gauge and then you'd know if it was a fuel problem. I've had problems like this with a couple of pertronix igniters. So I'd mainly try to get/borrow a 280zx distributor and see what that does for it.

if you've got plain water in it, then I think the saying is: if it ain't broke, it will be soon.

I use normal water/antifreeze plus some water wetter. seems a better compromise than the waterless stuff.

I think if you've tried swapping injectors and leads from other cylinders onto #1 and it doesn't make a difference, then it must be something about the route into the cylinder - either the valves aren't opening properly or there's something in the way - gasket maybe?

follow the instructions in the book. How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun Ohc https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1931128030/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_9V7X0J9VS8R27RZTFBM6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I think its unlikely to have taken 1 minute for the fuel pressure to have come up. 1 minute of running will get some heat into the valves and inlet, so fuel vaporisation is massively better after a minute. it just sounds like a lack of cold start enrichment to me.

I think BPR6ES are gapped at 0.8 and BPR6ES-11 are the same, but gapped at 1.1. Either can be re-gapped to something else.

They're exploiting the community trust that comes with a forum. A lot of requests for parts are from new and occasional users, and when a "mikegreen008" pops up with a PM saying, 'hey, I've got what you need', they just trust, assuming they're the newbie and mikegreen008 is an established member of the community.

My guess is that the slowness comes from database performance. For me, only the 'unread content' page is consistently very slow - between 9 and 10 seconds to load. Other pages (individual threads) are sometimes slow, but normally OK. The 'unread content' page is more complex that most of the other pages I imagine- it could involve an unoptimised join in the database or the join happening outside the database (specifically, on the webserver).

the fans being on shouldn't affect the engine getting up to temp too much. if the engine isn't up to the thermostat temp, it's shut and no hot water goes to the radiator to be cooled by the fans. having said that, when I had electric fans, I did fit a thermostatic switch in the thermostat housing. I couldn't find one that matched the thread of the spare hole, so I ended up with a Volvo 240 switch that is M14 and tapped the hole to match. like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-BILSTEIN-FE01102-Temperature-Switch-radiator-fan-OE-REPLACEM-XX3011-224836-/324422697346

have you looked at the underside of the manifold?

look for the air leak on the engine side of the balance tube. maybe....

So... Front 3 cylinders run lean with two different carb setups. the lean condition is probably not down to the carbs. what else do all 3 front cylinders have in common? did both carb sets use the same manifold? look for hole in the manifold, or warped mounting face.

no, like SteveJ says, mine also lifts on the body. I lift the Z with a cross beam on the compression rod pickups at the front and rubber blocks on the rear sill jacking point.