Everything posted by jonbill
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Help With Head Rebuilding/Cam Choices
I don't think there's a down side to a big cam in a Z. Mine is ~15mm lift and it goes like a normal engine below 4k rpm and a not so normal engine above. No 'driveability' problems anywhere. You wont get the full benefit without exhaust, carb, head etc improvements but it won't hurt.
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.01 Ring with Standard Piston
is your current ring end gap 0.049"? thats 1.2mm, which is very big. my recollection of the spec is around 0.3 to 0.4mm for the top ring.
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Machining cylinder head for more compression?
I don't think any original standard Nissan pistons have cut outs like that. on the compression rod, I have these, which are cheap and effective. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4190 I had poly bushes both sides before I fitted them, and I had a lot more roll after I fitted them which I think shows how much load they were taking.
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Machining cylinder head for more compression?
I've got an e88 skimmed to 36cc chambers on a "big bore l26" and 10.5:1 CR I built recently. There's no problem with chain tension or cam timing. It hasn't run yet but it won't ping on decent fuel I'm sure.
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Machining cylinder head for more compression?
Apologies, I misunderstood 😅
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Machining cylinder head for more compression?
The standard gasket is 1.2mm, so you can't have a head gasket 1.25mm thinner. You can oval the mount holes in the tensioner and Slack side guide to take up the slack.
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Procedure for Reinstalling Distributor
If you take it off at the pedestal (two bolts) then you don't even need to mark it - it can only go back on in one position, the position it came off.
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L crate engine recommendations
42 DCOE, so medium ones. I'd think 45 as a minimum.
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L crate engine recommendations
I'm sure DCOEs can reach the full potential of the DSI stage 3 engine. They'll just have to be big ones.
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Electric fuel pumps
Up until I swapped to EFI last year, I was using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator. Now I'm on EFI, I'm using a BMW diesel 4 bar pump and an Aeromotive bypass regulator 🙂 The fuel pump has done about 200,000 miles, so I think it's good on the reliability front.
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Air / Fuel Meter Recommendations
I can vouch for the importance of heater control. I swapped out my wideband controller yesterday from an old Prosport one to a 14point7 one. The prosport one would jitter around 13.8 to 14.5 at idle whereas the new one only varies by 0.1 or 0.2. I understand this is because the new one controls the temperature much more accurately.
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COVID-19
It has a similar shape to the distribution of votes in your recent election.
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Old cars, synthetic oil
similar to my experience Ali. That's not hot enough to need an oil cooler!
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Air / Fuel Meter Recommendations
looking at this: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1273912-wideband-with-data-log-how-does-it-work/ It looks like you need a bunch of kit. you could get a 14point7 SLC free and a speeduino for a lot less, just to log. You'd hook it up to the coil for an rpm signal and you could even put a potentiometer on the throttle.
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Air / Fuel Meter Recommendations
I have a Prosport controller and gauge that I ran for a couple of years stand alone with carbs and distributor. it was very useful to see what the gauge was saying as I drove and it helped me identify problems with fuelling. when I switched to Speeduino EFI, I connected the Prosport controller in and started logging from that, which makes tuning it really easy. I would think logging would have little value if you can only log AFR - only useful if you have the AFR data against load (tps or map) and RPM. so there's the answer, fit a standalone modern ems and log everything 🙂
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Where can I find L20a connecting rods?
I reckon l28 rods with your standard pistons will put the pistons about 2mm up - assuming that doesn't put the top compression ring too close to the combustion, Kameari do a 3mm head gasket that would sort it out. But that's all a lot of effort to get less capacity that just dropping an L28 engine in.
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Where can I find L20a connecting rods?
which pistons do you want to use? you'd want to do the sums properly, but standard l28 pistons and rods with a thick gasket might work.
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Where can I find L20a connecting rods?
it depends what pistons you want to use. for example, Kameari offer pistons with 3 or 4 different pin heights to suit different rod length and crank throw combinations.
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Old cars, synthetic oil
I believe the oil pressure in the engine is an order of magnitude greater than an auto box, so the rad may not be able to take it.
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ZHome.com gone?
aktar's page to sign up for the izcc appears to have moved to mlinks.net http://www.mlinks.net/~aktar/memberdb/entry/
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ZHome.com gone?
~aktar means the home directory of a user called aktar. Presumably aktar is member of the izcc. There are quite a few links to zhome.com/~aktar around the internet, all return a 403 forbidden response. I Guess aktar was a mover and shaker, given the member database is in his directory, but anyway, none of us can access any of his stuff any more.
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ZHome.com gone?
the 'community' thinks of http as outdated and generally https is preferred these days. that's why google returns an https link to zhome. your browser may also default to https if you don't enter the protocol - my chrome browser still defaults to http if I enter just 'zhome.com'. I didn't spot your problem with the 'how to join link'. That is down to the apache config on the server - the page http://zhome.com/~aktar/memberdb/entry returns a 403 status code, which is basically saying you don't have permission to visit that page. That could also be a result of modern browsers declining to participate in insecure stuff, or it could be deliberate - maybe you can't join the izcc any more. (I haven't read the whole thread!)
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ZHome.com gone?
If you start at plain http zhome (http://zhome.com) the items in the left nav load correctly in the right frame. If you start at https zhome (https://zhome.com) many of the items in the left nav don't load into the right frame. This is because modern browsers don't allow a mixture of https and http resources in a page. the easy and correct fix is to replace all the absolute http links with relative links, then the linked frame will load with the same protocol as the parent page.
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Random Misfire while cruising
did the plug #4 gap closing thing ever recur? in many of the photos, plug #4 doesn't look bad enough to not fire. are you sure it is 4 that misfires? some of the others look lean enough to misfire.
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Old cars, synthetic oil
what oil temps are you getting Ali? mine doesn't normally get over 90°c