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Found 15 results

  1. View Advert PAC Racing coilover springs (two), 2.5" ID FOR SALE: One pair of lightly used PAC Racing coilover springs. 2.5" inner diameter, 6" free length, 250 lb/in. Orange powder-coated. $75 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking. Advertiser jhm Date 07/18/2019 Price $75.00 Category Parts for Sale  
  2. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    FOR SALE: One pair of lightly used PAC Racing coilover springs. 2.5" inner diameter, 6" free length, 250 lb/in. Orange powder-coated. $75 shipped anywhere in the U.S. Thanks for looking.

    $75.00

  3. At the risk of sounding redundant, I wanted to put together a coilover list. There are a few of these threads/topics around the internet already, but lots of them are from years towards 2006 (I didn't even have my driver's license yet) and have old, outdated links, or are not very comprehensive and easy to read. I am looking at coilover sets for my '78 280z so these links will be specific to that (mainly so I can reference it later). Assume that all are ride-height adjustable. I didn't look super hard for lowest price, so the options may be cheaper somewhere else. Order: Expensive --> Least Expensive Format: Name | Cost | Colors/Special Notes | Link TechnoToyTuning Coilovers | $2040 | Maroon/gold, NO-WELD (send in your cores) | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z + https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Arizona Z Car Coilover Set | $1600 | Red\Silver, camber plates | http://arizonazcar.com/coil.html Stance USA Coilover kit | $1295 | Black/Bronze, Camber Plates and Swift Springs @ +$300 each | http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension/ BC Racing Coilovers - BR Series | $1200 | Black/Gold, camber plates | https://coiloverdepot.com/products/74-5-78-nissan-260z-s30-bc-coilover-br-type?variant=16741482757 KSport Control Pro Fully Adjustable Coilover Kit | $1080 | Black/Orange, Pillowtop Camber Adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ksport__cns361-kp.html D2 Coilovers - RS Series | $1000 | Black/Purple, camber plates | http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/d2-d-ni-01.html Megan Racing Coilovers | $900 | Black/Red, Pillowtop Camber Adjustablity | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/megan_racing__mr-cdk-280z.html CX Racing | $869 | Black/Red, Pillowball mount & Camber plate adjustable | https://www.cxracing.com/coilover/coilover-nissan-infinity/CO-B-280Z-0405-PB Ground Control Coilover Kit | $429 | Maroon\Yellow, No adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ground_control__6020.01.html Other Evolved Front Coilovers (FRONT ONLY) | $1290 | Maroon/Gold, camber plates, NO-WELD (send in your cores) - Don't seem to list a matching rear set | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/evolved-front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Intrax | $??? | There are 4 options on their site. Can't find any pricing. Made in Holland. | http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/ If I missed any, let me know and I can add them.
  4. Hey guys, I'm wondering if there is something weird going on with my swaybar end links. I recently completed a total overhaul of suspension. I'm using TTT arms front rear, TTT tension rods, and Stance coilovers with camber plates all around. I got new sway bar end links & bushings from MSA as well. In the front, I'm having a difficult time fitting the end links into the swaybar. If I REALLY force it I can get it in there, but that seems wrong. I don't know if they should be under that much stress. It also seems like my suspension travel might be affected based on how freakin stiff these end links seem to be. Am I gonna break something by forcing the end links into the swaybar? These are the arms I have in front: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-lower-control-arms-240z-260z-280z The end link is already on the "inside" setting of control arm and the control arm is already set to as narrow track-width as possible. Check these pics. These are the Z at just a hair above stock ride height. The end links are still solid 1" away from the hole:
  5. Replaced my suspension with TTT stuff and coilovers. I'm selling the original arms and tension rods. They would make a good candidate for refurb. The whole car had lots of undercoating so these are mostly rust free. Rear control arms do not have the big bolts that hold the bushings on. I had to reuse those. Front control arm ball joints are both shot also. Tension rods don't include the bushings (they were so destroyed anyway). Located in Bellevue, WA 98008 if you are local. Front Control Arms: $75 shipped in the US Rear Control arms: $90 shipped in the US. Tension Rods: $30 shipped in the US Front LCAs: Rear LCAs: Tension Rods:
  6. Hey guys, I need new coilovers at all 4 corners. Regardless of the fact that I have no idea yet which ones to get, I need a few questions answered: Where did you take your coilovers + strut tube to have them welded together? (do I need a specialty shop or what?) How much did it cost to weld all 4 coilovers? (I plan on taking them the new coilovers + disassembled part) What do I need to provide to the shop to have the job done? (which OEM parts, what kind of info do I need to provide in terms of ride height, etc.)
  7. I've seen 2 different "complete" electric power steering kits advertised. One claims it is adjustable and costs $1500.00, $600.00 more that n the other. The other kit sells for $900.00 and claims its very easy to install. Claims everything can be installed in a few hours after old column, etc. is removed. Does anyone have any experience with these kits they can share?
  8. I couldnt find anything that described what I have just the usual clunk at changing gears typical of a bad mount. I have an early 1971 Datsun 240z with a 4 speed manual built in 1/71. All original to my knowledge. Besides the clunk at accel and decel (front diff mount that is no longer in production) I also have a loud clunking/rattle when i let go of the gas over 60mph then goes away under 60mph. Sounds like somebody with 2 hammers hitting the bottom of the car rapidly. When I have it up on jack stands it does the same on 2nd and 4th gear at idle. its louder on the drivers side wheel for some reason.. Quieter without the wheels. when i hold the drivers side wheel and let the passenger side spin away (yes its an open diff) it still makes the same loud clank on the drivers same if i hold the passenger side wheel. still louder on the drivers side.. and also jerks at the wheel when holding it.. Bad Diff?
  9. I am having a problem with my suspension on my project car I can not figure out. The Rear passenger side wheel is sitting 2-1/2" lower than the driver side. My front passenger side is sitting 1" lower than the driver side. I have replaced all control arm bushings, new struts and new springs, nothing has fixed the problem. I am thinking I have something tweaked on the frame of the car at this point. I have attached pictures of the rear tire clearance for a visual. Any ideas would be appreciated. If it is the frame, is it possible to fix the problem?
  10. Alright so I've decided after taking someone elses Z for a spin this past weekend (and being thrilled with the ride quality) that I want to go coilovers. The kicker here is that I do not have the know-how or ability to section the struts or weld so I'm looking for something that I can bolt in directly if possible. The only place that I have found so far that does this is Techno Toy Tuning however (and please correct me if I'm wrong) I feel that $1950 for coilovers all around seems like a bit much even with included springs. Is there any other available bolt in ready product on the market that someone can suggest, or can someone let me know if spending the money here is worth it? I'm not looking at cutting into the car for camber plates or anything of the sort although I may be going with fender flares in the near future which is another reason why this must come first. Thanks for the help and I appreciate all responses you might have for me! -Chris
  11. Hey guys. Been a lurker for the past couple of months. Finally getting around to my first post. Come from the world of messing with 90's Volvo's so its been an interesting switch up for me as of late. Currently looking into replacing the suspension on my '76 280Z for a month or so now. Not looking to do any serious autocross or crazy stuff like that, just want to replace the stock suspension with something nice that will look good when done. Looking at the coilover options right now but a little divided on what route I want to go exactly. I've been reading up on the available options and due to there being many threads, some being very old (5 or so years). Im a little confused about the options, especially with what struts are currently available from what suppliers. I've read up a bit on strut sectioning and with the help of my roommate we should be able to accomplish the task. (Tools, welder, etc.) If I do go this option is there a good combo of strut and springs out there right now? I've also come across these: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Have there been any negative comments on these outside they cost more than making your own coilover setup? Appreciate any help you guys can give even if its pointing me in the direction of a couple good threads. -Tom
  12. Greetings, I need some good ideas on setting up the suspension of a 71 for endurance road racing. But first a bit of information The Car current condition 71 Z early L28 block (200 dyno HP) 5 speed stage 1 clutch, clutch masters R-180 4:11 open Unknown lowering springs Tokiko illuminas AZ Dave big vented discs WW 1" MC Prop valve New bearings u joints - new bushings (urethane) bump steer spacers short steering arms F 205/50/16 R 225/50/16 Dierzza ZII ST sway bars F&R Stock camber castor new "big dog" frame rails 6 pt roll cage tied in shock towers with cross bay between shock towers. We ran at Sears point 3 days - 24 hours of track time (less pits) car never pushed but we spun a few times - i know i know driver error .. FYI fastest lap 2.09 fasted lap of all cars 2.04 (ok 1 car had a 2:01 on Monday when there were only 60 cars instead of 160.. point is while we are not the best drivers we are competitive.. We would like to get any old school el cheepo racing fix advice for the following needs. - with the lemons caveat (need it to work and not cost a boat load - ie no coilovers, no AZ Z track pack, etc creative ideas rewarded.. Camber - we need negative camber! so far the only idea we are looking at is slotting the top holes at all 4 corners and moving the front holes up and out in the ft cross-member. Any other thoughts? Caster? we got nothing here, any ideas and what will it get us. Lowering. car came with unknown lowering springs looks like about 1 inch. but needs to be lower, lots of room over the tires and car has bump steer spacers... Best so far is advice from Dave Robello, suggested cutting top hats down an inch, (heat up rubber take it out slot metal re install cut down drops car keeps suspension travel... any other ideas. keep in mind aesthetics are no issue so we could section the shock towers and raise them .. lots of work and not sure our quality of work would keep them absolutely centered in original geometry... Tightening up rear.. negative camber will help -0 camber now.. somebody suggester going to 17 inch rims and bigger wider tires.. thoughts staggered set up no problem, clearance no problem (just cut out any offending metal... _ if so how wide we have a nother l28 block we are building and may get to 225 or so HP.. Any ideas are appreciated PS picture is from Sears Point channeling Bob Bondurant - we were of course Bad Bondorot..
  13. I need strut insulators for my late year 260z. Seems the proper item is very hard to find. Curtesy Nissan has a super imposed number for the original part that references to the same part as the 240z. This is about 3/4 of an inch lower then the original.Has anybody used this lower strut insulator on their late 260z or 280z. Did it make the rear droop. Is it very noticeable. How was the ride. Thanks ZDude1967
  14. I just got my baby back from the body shop, and it's beautiful, but after 7 months of not driving it, i was given a strong reminder of just how rough it rides and steers. I know now that i should have done the suspension before the body, but this is my first project and i'm learning along the way. What i'd like to know is, where do i go from here? I don't want (and can't afford) anything really fancy, i just want it to feel smoother. There's a lot of vibration in the front of the car, and the steering wheel shakes like mad when i get up to about 60mph. i got a poly bushing kit and i replaced the steering rack bushings and the column coupler, but that didn't change anything, it still shakes. The strange thing is, the shaking is sort of intermittent. Most of the time, at high speed, it shakes badly enough to make my arms numb, but then occasionally, it will barely shake at all. I thought at first that it was just from driving on different surfaces, but then i noted the intermittence while on the same stretch of highway. Thoughts? Either way, what's the first thing i should do on a suspension that hasn't ever been touched?
  15. i'm trying to decide which front suspension bushing kit i should buy for my '76. the BDA kit is 30 bucks more, but is it worth it? are there many additional bushings, and/or is the kit better quality? is there a better kit from a different online source? i'd love to hear from some folks who have bought a kit. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?page=43 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC06A/23-4100AZ
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