Patcon
Subscriber
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Patcon
-
JeffG told you how to bypass the metal fuel rail a long time back. He is a Ford engineer and races cars, maybe you should take his advice... -
If you are stubbornly going to try to keep the "vintage look" then get use to fluctuating idle rpm's
Hadn't thought of mounting tape. But what if they're not at exactly the right angle?????
looking good but you're gonna need some more holes in that hatch for the emblems...
Shiro's are actually pretty rare cars. They are also unusual in they have the viscous limited slip rear differential. However if you buy a Shiro rear end be sure and get the half shafts as they are unique to this car...
Do you buy good gasoline? Could there be water in the tank? Do you buy fuel at a busy gas station? The busier the station the more they change their inventory and the less water they will have in their fuel...
Where in Simpsonville? If you need help or parts I'm in Spartanburg...
It is probably not unless someone swapped it. If you jack the rear of the car up and turn one wheel, if the other rear wheel turns in the same direction = LSD if it turns in the opposite direction = open diff
That's an interesting picture because the tracks go under the car not up to the back of the large tire. So I assume the large white wall was set there to stage the picture...It looks like "Eddie Munsters" first car
My homemade rotisserie is about 15' long, with about 16" at the rear of the car and 12" at the front. I wouldn't think most wouldn't be a ton longer than this 16-17' max
Congratulations! Stay in touch...
You are better off selling for cash then buying the right car for your motor. You might want to post some pictures of the actual car...
Zed I use Thunderbird for email and Firefox with an adblocker for browsing. Just recently had to add the ad blocker because the websites have gotten so ad heavy and video heavy it was really slowing my machine down
Ouch!
Glad you are still working at it. Keep us in the loop...
Grannyknot is right there are factory seams there that join the quarter panel to the roof. You need to be careful working on this joint because you can give yourself lead poisoning if you grind on these. I have had cars that cracked here too. I believe they were driven very enthusiastically and that may contribute to the problem. The lead flexes better than thick body filler. So if the during the repaint they filled these full of Bondo that could contribute to the cracking. Being in California your rust won't spread as fast as in other parts of the country. I would definitely treat the rust spots to prevent spreading. I would also be careful of making the car a garage project. IT can be very hard to stay motivated to finish a car once it comes off the road...If you rework the roof seams, remember, body filler isn't waterproof, good primer is, not rattle can stuff...
Zcar depot has a good reputation but I have no experience with this damper. It may be overkill unless you plan on making lots of RPM's which gets hard to do with a stroker build @Diseazd Maybe another build thread, I would love to see how you go about your build. A stroker build is on my "bucket list"
A fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail would help your diagnosis. That way you can watch fuel pressure in real time and compare it to the symptoms. Also if the fuel pump is a later model aftermarket pump and not regulated it could be overpressuring the system resulting richness and plug fowling
Free is good, just a little far...
Important Information
By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.