Patcon

It also makes sure they don't run cars that people aren't serious about selling...

I all of my commercial car auctions both wholesale, retail or salvage add the fees on top of the auction price and some of them charge the seller a run fee too.

Can some one explain to me why this is so expensive?

Is that the only place the key code exists? I don't believe I have ever seen that tag on any Z I've ever owned Maybe on the lock cylinder?

What does the blue dot and red dot represent? Is that the peak power portion of the power band? and for what motor?

@greekz

I could look around too if no one else has one. I don't know if I have one or not

Also did you set the valve lash cold? Early on in my life I had an L24 I rebuilt that wouldn't start. Took it to our mechanic. The valves were too tight, no compression or intake vacuum

Ad is almost a year old. I suspect it is long gone. You might pm the original poster

There are 2 main approaches to the carpet. One is the factory pattern carpets.The other is more of a custom setup that usually covers the transmission tunnel and sometimes the rear strut towers. I am of course assuming "restore"means replacing. If not you could redye the carpet you have and respray vinyl to get good color. There was an older thread on the original supplier of the carpet kits @Zup If you do a custom kit they sometimes need massaging with heat to get them to fit properly

Can you post a picture of the part?

I will look at it some more on Friday. I need to get the clip out and see where to go from there.

It must be this thread @Richard McDonel So there must be a snap ring down in that crud I can't see. How strong is the spring??? Don't want it to go every where when I get the snap ring out...

The dent in the rear below the tail lights is a hard area to work. There are multiple layers of metal there and they can be very stubborn. I had a bigger dent and couldn't pull it. I ended up cutting out a section. I repaired it and welded it back in.Probably would be a better repair if you remove the whole valance and repair it, but there are a lot of spot welds back there. I thought about removing those seams at one time too. Be sure and seal the seam on the inside too with some seal sealer to prevent water intrusion.

No problem

At least it's durable! And it has room to spread out

Ok, so started working on the proportioning valve.Got the cap off but the piston doesn't want to come out. Any ideas? I have it soaking in PB blaster. I figured compressed air from the rear brake port, but am not hopeful...

This is the main shop

Thats a lot of shelling to do. If I remember right they have quite the shell on them...

That's a good guess

What have you got stacked all over the table on the saw horses?

Any problems with the cylinder head? Let me know if you need anything. I have a few laying around if you were to need one...

20012, I wonder if that is the old plating formula or the new formula. You might want to ask because it will change your approach slightly. Also I don't know if the old and new formulas are compatible. Would love to have some more input from another plater to help narrow down the best process

That's why I think they are

@65 Tuxedo