Patcon

So here is what I've got so far. I filtered my plaiting tank with a bunch of coffee filters stacked onto of each other on some metal window screen. Sort of hard to do efficiently. I had some brown particles that had settled out on the bottom of the tank but they are fine enough to go through the coffee filters. I spoke to Caswell tech and they said that was ok and when the bath was running it should be cloudy. So that is ok. The Ph on the plating tank at 4 is too low and can cause the starter chemical to be removed from solution. Too high and the Zinc can precipitate out. You use Ammonium Hydroxide (plain household ammonia) to raise the Ph. I added about 40+ tablespoons to raise my 3 1/2 gallon plating tank about 1 - 1.5 points. Initially, I was concerned I had raised it too high but once I got it mixing and heated up it settled in at about 5.5. I assume my plating tank has been lowered because of the pickle tank I use before the plating tank. Evidently I am not getting all the acid rinsed off the parts and it had lowered the tank Ph. Caswell said I should use a baking soda neutralization after the pickle. I would then have to rinse that. I may just come up with a better rinse method after the pickle tank... I have some new strut caps that came with the new struts but they didn't look very good. They may even be raw metal, so I decided to use them as test subjects. I bead blasted both and put them in SP degreaser, thanks Rich for that. I was able to clean the hard crystal out of the crock pot eventually... I didn't pickle the first part and I checked it for being clean with a water test. Plated it at 1.2A for about 30 minutes. Rotating it about every ten minutes. I also added a tablespoon of brightener to the tank as Caswell thought this was why the plate was dull. Much better results except for one spot on the first part. I did them one at a time and I strung them on a loop of wire through the center. The mark is a dark stain almost like an oil spot but it was right under where the loop was contacting the part... Even after I rotated the part away from the wire and plated it some more it didn't go away. I wrote this is off to the overly quick prep work I did a 60 second blue dip and a 60 second yellow dip. Dried it on low with the heat gun. Did good overall except for the spot which didn't take any color... I ran the second part but I pickled it for a minute or too with no real bubbling. Then plated it the same way. I got a similar spot under where the wire was sitting on the part???? Has anyone seen this happen before ?? @motorman7 @Namerow This is the finished part after color So Here are my guesses: 1. Contaminate on the wires I am using 2. Burned the part where the wire met it 3. Didn't plate where the wire met it 4. Contaminate on both parts and coincidentally lined up with both plating wires 5: Plating wire is too small for the amperage My gut instinct is #1,2 or 4. It seemed like the wire made a secondary mark on the first part where the wire was hanging the second time (The dark stain at 2 O'clock by the weld in the first picture) Anyone else have any thoughts or solutions?

Good eye Site...

He's in California, I bet it does!

Complete with hand throttle...

As a whole this forum is very tolerant of other makes. We would much rather buy a Toyota from a forum member than a stranger...just saying

It may just be the picture but the last three lobes on the cam look a little rough. They should be shiny like the #5 exhaust lobe (4th from the back)...

What happened here?

I knew it might be a winter project but I will ship them soon. Need to look for an AFM first. They are boxed on the counter but I will repackage if I can locate the AFM. We moved a 600# gun safe the other day. My back is reminding me of how that is a bad idea!!

If you can source an IR thermometer you could figure out what "M" really means. These gauges are inexact at best. Once it got to "M" you could pull over and check temps on the hoses, thermostat housing and radiator to figure out what is really going on...

22x1.5

I don't have a spare one that I know of...

Thanks for the tips Namerow. I thought I would do color afterwards so I could color the joint too, since it looks raw. Thanks for that... Actually you own the last two bushings. They just haven't gotten there yet. Look at the packaging closely and guess how I got them... I am still hopeful we can get Nissan to put this on their remanufacture list. Surely someone has a contact at corporate... Did I really do that??? I corrected it now, my back is pissed and it has me out of sorts a little bit...

CO I hate that on the shipping and I wonder what's really going on with rates. I may have an AFM too. I need to look. I owe you a package anyway!

You should try to locate 2 more good ones. They are stronger than flat washers

@Walter Moore How are you doing Walter? Have you started looking for another car yet?

here is Nebraska YOM plate info https://dmv.nebraska.gov/dvr/historical-plates "Hobby related activity" could be anything! Almost daily... Be careful when buying YOM plates. Talk to your DMV first. I bought a set for my son's 510 and they weren't eligible. Evidently they used the same numbers every year and the set I bought had already been registered for a different year. We had to buy a different plate starting with "R" or later. All the earlier ones were issued...

It might be easier to find someone in your area to TIG it up for you...

Got the universal joint out of the upper steering column. Pressed it out today after soaking for a couple of weeks... The new Kawasaki u joint is very similar in size. The caps are the basically identical size. The spoke length overall is very close. Should work great... @Captain Obvious Opened it up today. Looks great! I had to solicit help from a lathe owner to help with some dies. I found some NOS bushings for the mustache bar. So CO was able to help me out...he might, eventually, sometime, somewhere post up some details... Worked on the lower rear control arms today. I couldn't get the bolts to thread in easily so I found a tap Retapped them I bought the cheapest tap I could find. I figured worst case scenario I would only have to tap 4 holes for now...

Thanks Mike

For me to reroute back to you is $18.40 USPS FedEx ground $12.49... Fascinating...I suspect rates vary widely by area and which way the freight is headed. I priced some boxes recently that were pretty light but I couldn't beat the flat rate boxes. They were going towards the west coast though...

Are they Aluminum or steel?

Anybody got any input on this?

Flat rate boxes are about the cheapest way to go if the parts will fit. there are three sizes...

It's not paranoia if everyone's out to get you!