Patcon

@zKars

Kats is a forum member who lives in Japan and is very familiar with what was available on a wide range of Datsun models. He also owns some beautiful and rare cars...

You can also use some antisqueal sealant on the back of the pads even with the shims. One that comes to mind is something like CRC disc brake quiet Yes, I would think you should be able to lock all four...

Steering wheel should have dimples instead of punch outs. Vertical defrost lines in the rear glass. Speedo starts at 20mph...there are more

@JLPurcell Might be able to make some recommendations. I believe he has a similar setup

So in the last week or so I have made some more progress Skimmed out the fender with some fiberglass to deal with any pinholes. I may actually fill that section of the fender with fiberglass instead of plastic filler because it will be harder and may hold up better so close to the ground behind the wheel, but it is more difficult to work and finish properly Started figuring out bolt locations... This is the bolt from the lower front link to the crossmember These are the bolts for the tension rod and ball joint These are the bolts for the steering knuckles to strut tower. I couldn't find all of these so I pirated some from the parts pile in the yard. They are evidently NLA and hard to source. I replated these two which were not stellar, the heads look good so the rest really won't show. I will update the caswell thread after a little more experimentation. Also these bolts are evidently different lengths. I thought it was an anomaly but this car was this way and the other series 1 in the driveway had the same setup as well as the spare rack in the parts pile. The longer bolt was in the front bolt hole on the knuckle... I also bought these O rings for the steering knuckles. Evidently these are still being produced but they were like $12 each through Courtesy It is challenging to get the ball joints torqued with no steering installed on the car. I used a strap and tied it to the steering mounts to help keep them from twisting while I torqued them. I have also found it difficult to locate the correct torque values for the suspension. I have a copy of the FSM and a Haynes manual, but I tend to know the parts by other names... I also reworked the washer arrangement like CO explained. That was doable but still a challenge to get the tension rod nut started. I have these on the car at this point too but I had to order some lock nuts (NLA). They are an odd thread pitch and not commonly stocked. I haven't figured out a way to torque them other than to put a wrench on one end and assume both ends torque the same. I haven't come up with a way to hold them with out marking them up... I have most of the front suspension on except the front struts. I have a Tokico setup I bought about 7 years ago... It has the red springs which I will run to start with. I would have gone with the Eibachs if I had known better at the time and I may go with those later if these are too harsh. The directions call for light oil in the shock tube for heat transfer. Do any of you guys add oil when installing the struts? I like the idea if for no other reason than being able to remove them later. I have seen struts corrode into the strut so badly I couldn't remove them... I thought about using a synthetic 0w-30 oil for the tubes but have no idea how much to add, although it might say in the FSM. It wants them filled to like a 1/4" down from the top of the strut but I am not sure you can see that with the strut in the tube... I have also started redoing the upper steering column. I ordered the Kawasaki u joint (Amazon - Motor Master Universal Joint ATV700) to replace the joint in the shaft so I can bead blast and paint it. I have the clips off the old joint but it hasn't wanted to move yet so I have it soaking with some PB blaster There are a number of needle bearings inside the shaft but I am not planning on trying to remove them. I don't really have the right tools to remove them and don't want to risk damaging them with out knowing a suitable replacement is available. I plan on cleaning them well and regreasing the shaft on reassembly. Also I removed the cap off the bottom of the shaft so I could blast and plate it. I removed it so I wouldn't have to worry about beads getting up in the shaft and not being able to get it clean. If you decide to remove this cap there are two spots on the side where it has been staked, I didn't realize it but they are staked into a corresponding hole. They really need to be unstaked if possible. I just drove mine off but it folded the staked areas back. When I went to repair them, they broke off...tuition

They are a Nissan dealership out of Texas that is very supportive of our classic cars. All parts are Nissan OEM...

That should have a vented hatch, correct? Are the other early parts there?

Those are really amazing things when you look at them. Built with spit!

I read that thread and all the posts. I hadn't noticed it was gone because I only see "new content"

Too much clearance on the bearings. When the oil pressure comes up the knock goes away. Run a heavier weight oil, You're in Tucson you could easily run a 50W oil...It will help

Amen

Site, the real issue was stopped up tank lines from the Red Coat sealer. The tank sender leak was incidental

I wonder what a light tunnel hull with an L6 will do on the water????

Hertz took a beating on that program, which is why it went away so fast. I wasn't too far off. I have looked at older Ferraris and such for fun but the maintenance costs are "outrageous" even if I did it myself the parts are stupid expensive. Like a timing belt job is something like $8,000 on a car you paid $32,00 or less for. Totally crazy! That's is one of the appeals of the classic Z for me. They have always been cheap to own and for the longest cheap to acquire. That is changing but on the upside as the market gets more expensive some of the old parts become viable for reproduction, like Euro taillights, for example

Do you think you could do a clutch for 10x's that? maybe 5x's???

I can just see renters flogging the snot out of your car and then be like "Oh well" $500 deposit wouldn't even touch the wear they could put on a car in a day of clutch dumping and power braking!

I would think as long as the pump can circulate the fuel and not be dead headed then it will work. Might be loud if the regulator is too restrictive...

I have those videos and I have a triumph top in the shop waiting on the right candidate. I like convertibles and if it's done well, I think the aesthetics can work, at least for me...

What kind of pressure regulator? Does it have a bypass line?

I believe they were painted from the factory, but I plated mine

Thanks, Rich I thought that strip between the black and orange just in front of the door hinge was weatherstripping but I believe it is just a different color of paint.

YES, we are! Sparky to the rescue...

Depends on the paint. Solid or metallic? Light color or dark color? If you go metallic you need to paint the car all assembled or different panels will come out different. Dark colors are more forgiving for the amount of coats you apply but less forgiving on the body and metal work. If you paint a sold color on a disassembled car, you need to be careful and apply the same amount of coats to each part or the color shades can vary...

The large black "rockford" cable looks like the ground. It loops under the starter but can't tell if it's connected to the lower starter bolt...