Patcon

Drove it yesterday. It is much better, but the tires were low on air. So it was still a little splashy but a big improvement! Now on to brakes and improved carburation

I love it!!!! So jealous... Keep it straight and rubber down!

there is only one u joint in the steering shaft. Box is on the rear of the cross member and there is not much room there The joint looks good. All the slop looked like it was in the box itself. We already pulled the hubs and greased them. They had a little play too. This is the way I adjusted the box.: Roll the car forward a few feet, to make sure the wheels are pointing forward. Then, take a wrench and loosen the jam nut on the top of the steering box, AT THE SAME TIME, put a slotted screw driver into the slot in the top of the screw, AND HOLD IT IN THAT POSITION! Now, carefully screw the screw down in the box, till you feel some resistance. ( you may have to back the nut off a hair more, to keep it from tightening up) Then, go grab the steering wheel and wiggle it back and forth, WHILE WATCHING THE WHEELS. You want to see the wheels move, with the steering wheel movement. IF not, tighten a bit more. When it seems ok, hold the screw in that EXACT position, and then you tighten the jam nut! Now, this is whre you find out if your worm and sector gears are bagged beyond adjustment. You have to drive the car, to see if it wants to return to center, AFTER you try to turn a corner. IF it is sluggish, or just plain TOO TIGHT, you have to back OFF the adjustment, till it turns ok, but, if you loose the on-center tightness...YOUR BOX is dead. You will either have to live with that vague steering, try and find a better box, or, try to find a good HL510 box and put that on. So try a few points , test drive.....GOOD LUCK! While you can turn the wheels statically, I do recommend you actually drive the car to really see how it's working, and BECAREFUL when you first turn, as you may be surprised at how tight the box can become, past the on-center feel. We did all this with the car in the air. Now time for a test drive...

@zKars On your 195-55 15's, how much clearance do you have between the tire tread and the floor board. We are rubbing right there. The 70 aspects are 20mm closer to the floor board than a 60 would be

Thanks! @Zed Head

For a Z or a 510?

Thanks guys. I will check the U joint and the steering box. So there is no problem in trying to tighten the steering box up? If I over tighten what happens? Heavy, stiff steering or worse?

http://jalopnik.com/this-incredibly-fast-ls-swapped-datsun-240z-on-mt-wash-1796886016 Car took a beating. He was hauling if that's an LS car! I am too old for all that. A lot of those shoulders look lethal if you make a mistake...

I don't think a piece of ring would ever hit the crank. It would fall to the bottom of the pan and stay. Now a piece of piston skirt might hit the crank but I believe there is more clearance than even that between the pan and the crank. I agree with CO, compression test will narrow the possibilities...

72 Datsun 510 wagon Should have put it because it is not obvious it's in the 510 sub-forum

Wow, that's unusual!

My wife is always encouraging me to buy Z cars! I am very fortunate for that... of course she knows I am emotionally attached to my Z cars

We almost have Cody's car road ready but he is complaining about too much steering slop. I need to look at it but I wanted some pointers on what too look at and if the steering box can be tightened up? I know to look at the ball joints and wheel bearings but what else?

Cody's 510 has these wheels on it. They are 195/70- R14. I don't know how wide the rims are...when he turns too hard they scrub on the frame rails. We would like to replace these wheels with something else, but I need some help finding the right size. We are leaning towards a Panasport type wheel. I have searched at the "Realm" and read the FAQ thread. Now I need some of the resident experts help @zKars By the way, what do you all think of the new color? The whole car is going over to the orange, one panel at a time...

Pretty much all building materials are nominal now. Not surprised it was thinner. It is a way for manufacturers to handle inflation. Call it 1/8" but make it thinner for the same price. You should see how small the a bars of soap I like have gotten. The box is the same size but the bars rattle around in them now...

Thanks Grannyknot Thanks CO. Yes I have thought about several ways to go at it. Advice on an arbor would be great...

I will look around. I think 1 1/4" is close but haven't found anything yet

Brown buffalo looking stuff is called "Jute" it is the original padding and is still available from some places. I would say the piece of blue vinyl behind the parking brake is the original vinyl. The best way to seal all the little holes would be welding them shut but unless you really strip the car down pretty far (which I don't recommend) you have a risk of starting a fire (don't ask how I know). Probably the best and easiest thing to do would be to use a little silicone (RTV) sealant and close them up

I thought it was a little small off the top of my head, but I wondered about drilling it or reaming it out. I believe it was only about 2mm too small...

I did that yesterday and my quick measurement was about .003" different. So basically the same... My real problem with the rear control arms is how to support them. I figured I would have to use a long rod to push through but there is so little metal at the end I don't know how to support it.

Ok, did the front control arm bushings today New bushing. Manufactured the beginning of this year evidently Pressing the old on out. A piece of 2" pipe with some rubber on top and an impact socket to press it out Sorry for the blurry picture. I guess I moved. Both old bushings out. I was surprised there was very little rust but the car spent most of it's life in the South West Pressing the new one in Done. The first one didn't take very long. The second one took 7 minutes start to finish. No real problems... Now the new problem is the rear control arms. I have a socket that would be large enough to press against but there is really not a good way to set the arm so you can press against it. How have others done it? The original bushings are offset on the rear control arms like the Captain said. About .014" to the outside and .010" on the inside You can see it on the new bushing too

Thanks Zed

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1981,280zx,2.8l+l6+turbocharged,1430312,ignition,crankshaft+position+sensor,7196 available on Rockauto

I bought Nissan bushings, I will see if they have the same offset. So you turned the "small" side in, correct?

Instead of thread jacking the clunk thread I thought I would move this discussion over here I found some info last night This looked close but I don't think it will work http://www.ridetech.com/components/rod-ends-bushings-and-sleeves/rubber-bushing-insert/ The Moog catalog has lots of bushings but they don't have a section listed by size but there is a ton of info in there for hubs, bearings and driveshafts. Might make for some interesting cross reference info http://www.moogparts.eu/support/light-vehicles/catalogues.html Dorman also makes some but their catalog isn't quite as easy as Moog's https://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/resources/catalogs/dorman.aspx Random bushings from Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moog-Chassis-Parts-K200183-Bushings-Rubber-Jeep-Lower-Front-Strut-Fork-Each-/332150998809?epid=83631388&hash=item4d55be0719:g:nUEAAOSwsW9Ywyfg&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMIX-ADA-Control-Arm-Bushing-Lower-Front-Rubber-Steel-Black-Jeep-Each-/391335468301?epid=118010097&hash=item5b1d695d0d:g:2soAAOSwp5JWYd9K&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Rear-Lower-ACDELCO-PRO-fits-02-05-Jeep-Liberty-/162572837664?epid=74304523&hash=item25da18a320:g:B38AAOSwIQdZMgaC&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Rear-Upper-ACDELCO-PRO-45G11049-/331813797933 @Captain Obvious