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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. @zKars Yeah, I saw your other post about the dearly departed. I hate to be a grave robber but you know "parts is parts" @wh @wheee! I will try to get some pics up in the next couple of days. I have very rose colored glasses but I am not sure they are rose enough for this one...
  2. What's wrong with that??? A little panel epoxy, a little bondo, good as new...
  3. I just bought an early car out of a salvage auction in Miami. It's always a little bit of a gamble when you do that. The car appears to have been recently painted so I took a chance they didn't spend money for paint on a rusty pig. Well guess what?! They painted a rusty pig!!!! It's number 7848...the lowest number I've ever owned. Now I need to decide what to do with it. I really don't want another huge project right now. I am also trying to figure out which of the early parts are missing. I know the following: Vented hatch and vertical defroster glass is missing Early steering wheel is missing 20 mph speedo is there No badges on the qtrs - missing Center console may be wrong too What else would be on an early car? I searched the forum and got 322 pages of hits. Went through 3 pages of results before giving up and used google to try to find the answer too
  4. Patcon replied to Dlobi's topic in Open Discussions
    Steve is correct. Those look like original carpet hold down clips, fairly rare to see original. Repros are available
  5. This was an interesting read too http://www.scott-yoo.com/other/electroplating.html
  6. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in For Sale
    Yes, PM me
  7. Thanks, we will see how my plating goes. I made some progress on it last weekend so we shall see...
  8. Did you reach under the carb to confirm that or just push the handle down?
  9. Thanks Rich I am rebuilding some SSS carbs for Cody's car and am going to try to start plating some hardware...
  10. Good for you! I could run one mile at 8:33 or so but I would have to stop to throw up afterward. On a side note I have a question you can probably answer. Is all the hardware on a stock SU yellow zinc? Dash pot screws, nozzle holder, all of it? Thanks, Rich and again congratulations on a good time for 13+ miles...
  11. Do you need the whole thing or just some portion of it? The top piece is available from Tabco. The lower curved section is available from MSA I believe. I do not know of a source for the middle tail light section... As 26th suggested locating a NOS complete section could be challenging and expensive
  12. Did you check to see if you had a sticking choke?
  13. Patcon replied to Edddy's topic in Help Me !!
    With a turbo it most definitely is! It is not as simple as just adding a turbo. L24's are carburated so you can't just blow into them with out modifying them. The engine compression is too high to add much boost with out blowing something up and the spark is points and not as strong or accurate as the later electronic dizzys. The more pressure you add to the cylinder the harder it is to make a spark kernel on the plug. Fuel metering is also an issue as turbo motors don't last long if they get lean. Also to make better power you will need to intercool it which will add piping and other issues. You can probably buy a car like this $1000 or less https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/d/1982-datsun-280zxt-top/6318762937.html take the engine, controls, fuel pump etc and the T5 tranny and be way better off. You can't buy a serviceable turbo for less than $300-400 new, have to build an intake manifold and exhaust manifold from scratch, another $300-400 if you can weld and do it yourself but the custom exhaust may crack if it's not made really well. Need to upgrade the ignition to work and spark hotter $150 in just used parts. Have to mod your carbs; $I have no idea of even where to start. You are already money ahead to just buy a donor car and be done with it. Plus the L28Et is almost half a litre larger and is much closer to plug and play. You would be better off to source a 280z fuel tank than try to cobble something together. . Plus turboing a 240z is like trying to "reinvent the wheel" not really worth the effort. The factory already spent a lot of money designing an engine that would work and survive long term. The L28Et can be made to make decent power without spending too much money but the hole gets deep pretty fast if you want to make excessive power...
  14. Patcon replied to Edddy's topic in Help Me !!
    What JSM said ^^^^ It's cheaper by far and easier to use the 280zx turbo engine and controls...
  15. Patcon replied to Erick's topic in Help Me !!
    Site is correct that is the oil sending unit. It looks like a large plug but it's not. The canister part threads into the block and on the end under the rubber cover is an electrical connection. It looks like someone has been working on that electrical too...
  16. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in For Sale
    Sorry, seat cover is gone
  17. Cliff, I suspect the spots are hard water spots. Drying the car after washing may help prevent them... Your dad might be right about the vinegar...
  18. Doesn't even consider all the time it takes...
  19. Patcon replied to Patcon's topic in For Sale
    yes it is, PM me
  20. Mic them and put some dimensions out there so we can maybe help cross reference them...
  21. Patcon replied to wil84911's topic in Help Me !!
    Lots of variables still there... Cam, compression, etc. One of the big limitations on the L motor is the heads. They really need some work by a practiced hand to make them breathe well. Significant gains can be achieved there, but it can get expensive. Well at least expensive by Datsun standards not so much Porsche standards. I hate to hazard a guess at numbers but I am sure there is someone on the site with a similar setup that could give you some feed back...
  22. The other thing with the MSDS from Caswell is a number of them provide almost no information. They just use the "proprietary ingredient" disclaimer. Caswell recommends experimenting with short tubes of copper to get your feet wet on your plating setup so I suspect the copper is not supper toxic to your bath or they wouldn't recommend it. I have both copper and brass wire. I may have to go back and run some test with both to see if the results differ... I have also had issues with the shadowing effect of irregular parts. I believe that can be a challenge to overcome. I believe you have to come up with ingenious anode (not cathode?) shape to eliminate shadowing
  23. Not nearly like the mods would. The only way to know it's not the original motor is to examine the numbers, but the mods are visible from 30' not 6"...
  24. I have one PM if your interested
  25. It could be a good investment if it's really going to be as cheap as the add suggest. Even if you had to undo all the mods. Those cars are gonna be worth a lot of money before long...
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