Patcon

To do this properly you really need to run the different exhaust on the same car and check Dyno numbers. Might be hard to get good numbers with out doing that...

What was the total solution?

@sweatybetty Love the camera with sound. What game camera are you using? Looks like a sow with 2 cubs. Is it snowing there or is that just dew floating around?

Sorry for that. I think it is a great looking car! Keep on enjoying it...

Well I tried to work on these strut caps some more. Prepped them and was ready to plate. Cut the power source on and it sparked and blew out the fuse. On closer examination it had a lot of condensate on it. Took it in the shop cleaned it up. Opened it up, checked it over and replaced the fuse and it did it again. Saw it arc on the board. So the lesson here is to not store this outside or near the chemicals for extended periods. I suspect the acid fumes damaged the board, so I ordered a new power supply today...

@David F Unless you're an electrical engineer with 30 years of experience then you might want to listen to SteveJ. He has forgotten more about electricity than most will ever know. There is a method to his questions to locate the problem quickly Also Grannyknots suggestion is a good one for a separate thread. That is generally accepted forum etiquette...good luck

So good to have you back. Your work is always inspiring. I always loved the sleeper Bimmer wagon...

Banzai use to have them

That's fine too. I have enough projects laying around...

Like JSM said, start with the L28ET motor complete. It is a much better starting position and EFI is more practical. Maybe Megasquirt. Lots of work and takes plenty of money to build a motor that will last

I texted him today. He says he has several people that want to come today. He said first come first serve. I will touch base later in the week and see if he has it. I can't go until Friday. I think it is very rusty so it might still be there near the end of the week...

Also, 73's have a delay wiper setting. The earlier cars don't...

You all are wicked!!! Considering it though...

Typically what sets off the excess fuel in the exhaust is a hot point. If you have a thin piece of metal in the new exhaust that gets really hot, it might even glow, it will ignite the extra fuel like a spark plug would.

Yup, this is the correct method. Heat from welding will break down the panel adhesive

Read through the comments on BaT... The buyer "Latebrake" produces several car events in the California area. Sounds like he has money and is going back to his 40+ year ago memories. It's not an original car is but is nicely done and appears very clean.

You really need access to the panel from the interior too. Your repair will last better if your filler is thinner. Hammer and dolly from the inside and outside to get it close. If the metal is stretched, heat it and cool it with a wet rag to shrink it...Close is 1/16th of an inch or less 1/8" absolute max...

@hr369

Now if grannyknot will edit his quote all the will be washed away...

A stud welder works even better than a screw in puller. Harbor freight has them I believe...

Low mileage and low rust are wild card variables though

Party tent!!

They would probably say the same where I live but I am not sure I would tell them. Sooooo......

The only NOS part in a box I remember is the fuel regulator...