Patcon

Can you turn the AC compressor by hand? Not the clutch part but the actual compressor portion. I am not sure they can be turned by hand but still worth a check.

Steve gave you pretty good advise on the brake fluid before. If it were me I would use a DOT 3/4 compatible fluid. It won't surprise me if you have a leak somewhere. Many times a number of us are reading these threads but we don't get involved if you have already been given good advise

It's probably leaking from the rear of the striker arm. If it is; it's not an in car repair.

Take a better picture of the "pulley" on the lower drivers side of the car. The side view and a front-ish view

Will the collar on the old drive shaft move over to the new drive shaft?

$8,300 now!!! Runs in 4 days...

If you look at the map, that car is West of Wichita Falls. I was thinking it was further into Oklahoma than that. I have a car that was stored for a number of years in the yard. It is rusty in all kinds of areas that are not normally problem areas. Every year it gets harder to save

The green one's been sitting right there in the grass and snow for 20+ years! I wonder if there is any underside left to the car. Letting cars sit in the grass or dirt seems to destroy them really fast, from my experience

My suspicion, is someone bought it and shipped it to Ky. Then they got to look it over and bailed on it. Run it back through the auction and try to limit the damage. The "greater fools theory"

Yes, probably

I have dealt with Norm but it was an ok transaction, but could have been better. He would not be my go to source, if I could help it.

This is from the auction in Boston I believe the distortion above the wheel well, might be rust too The door is going to be a mess at the bottom and the rocker and dogleg are going to be a mess. So a lot of my perspective is just suspicion. It's a Massachusetts car for starters! The hood is a mess on the inside and looks like salt damage. A lot of the pictures are also taken from angles that don't show the typical rust areas. If the drivers side is this bad, then I figure the passenger side is the same or not far behind it. Also when I see cars get to this point where there are holes in the doors and rockers, then I figure floors are shot and possible front frame rails. So I am assuming it's fairly rusty. It's too bad because the interior looks pretty good. I am not against saving it, but I wouldn't want to start with $7,500 ($6,000 bid, $1,200 fees, $300 shipping) in the car.

gwri8 has a pretty good list. One item I find difficult to remove with out mangling is the drip rail trim. It takes a little practice to get them off with out distorting them. If your window seals are hard at all, I would just cut them and remove the glass. If they are still pliable, I would try to remove the glass with the seal or have a glass company do it. The front windshield is easy to break if you push it too hard. Mark, also makes a very good point. The sheet metal is very thin on these cars and a careless blaster will destroy a car very quickly. I would have them DA the whole car really well. They will find any trouble spots at that point. I don't think I would go looking for extra work. There are risks associated with stripping the car back to bare metal. You can develop surface rust and that can cause paint failures later. Even rust that is really not obvious; been there , done that. If the existing paint is adhered well, I don't believe I would pay someone to strip it off...

Now it's in Lexington, Ky HLS30-140886 Say's it has 88,437 actual miles; maybe... https://www.copart.com/lot/38427609 $5,200 already!! Run's tomorrow. That's a lot of money for a rusty Z!

What if you remove most of the parts and save the 2k? Glass is still a question? You could have a glass company remove the windshield and hatch glass. You could do the quarter windows. $2,000 is a lot of money to strip the car. I can do it solo in maybe 4-5 hours if I drag butt. So double that or so for R&R. Even if it took you 20 hours to R&R all the outside bits, that's $100 an hour. If you make more than $200k a year, it makes sense to sub it out. I don't so I self perform stuff like this. If the rest of the car looks good, I don't know that I would remove the existing paint. It would be nice to sand it down good, so you don't have excessive thickness but the factory primer is bonded pretty well. Are they going to be doing metal patches for the rust repair? Any specific spot rust treatment?

My condolences! I havea JVC in my truck and I had a single DIN unit in a car. Neither one can keep time. The clock randomly changes. Won't ever have another JVC. It is evidently a common problem. The other stereo functions work fine. I hope you dont have this issue.

Have you tried to reach out to them directly? Would it be in the installation guide? Do they have it posted online?

GLWS

What I could find so far, it looks like they use a Koni shock. Do they use something other than an S30 shock?

Common rust areas: under the battery, front frame rails, rocker panels, dog legs (it sounds like you have this), wheel arches (this too), slam panel under the hatch - especially the drivers side, spare tire well As for paint, take as much off the car as you can. The paint job will be cheaper and look and last better. If you can afford to do it with the glass out, even better.

I had to remove the strut and use a press for the stub axles

That's a hard way to set a date to memory! Sorry for that...

You could try a WTB add in the classifieds. I don't know if that will get more views or not.

Please don't start multiple threads on the same issue. It just clutters up things

Have you done a compression test? I think that's where I would start