Patcon

It might be minimally smoother if you do, but if you are not pushing the boundaries, I suspect you wont be able to tell the difference

The likelihood that the hazard switch was changed in the first 7 years of the car is very low, and JFA is the one and only owner of his car. I suspect the switches are original to these cars

I don't really want the Ferrari V8 but I would like to have a flat plane V8 crank and the necessary cam shafts to make a Chevy 350 or a Ford 302 sound like the Ferrari. It's the flat plane crank that gives it that sound. Would have to custom engineer the crank but the cams would be the biggest issue. Hhmmmm, who do I know with a lathe???

I buy purple power in 2 gallon bottles at Oreilly's or Advanced Auto

Do you deal with Louis? I spoke to him a few months ago

What shop?

Did you plate those at home with Caswell? They look good!

Good for you! Should make a nice addition on your car

My plan is to take my older meter off my truck and make it my shop meter and put the new meter on my truck. It will do mostly AC work with a little DC thrown in there when the truck breaks. I do have multiple hand held circuit testers for checking power. My second test after that is the back of my hand Not recommending this technique of coure I believe, I have seen voltages like this, mainly on the a 3 way switch. When one traveler is hot the other traveler screw can show a lower voltage like 20 or 25 volts

That's how you know if they are keepers or not. I had a home made spray booth in my back yard and my first Z in there when I met my wife. She was good with it. So far it's worked out good...25 years Unfortunately I still have a Z in a plastic spray booth...

Parts cars or fabricate. I think some reproductions might be available

I agree to. I think the market has cooled off some. Might pick up in the spring because of the 50 anniversary. Christmas can be a weak time of year to sell a car like this. Other priorities...

No access to it from the backside I assume? Looks pressed in but I'm guessing

I don't really do any circuit board work. Right now I don't see it in my future. I think that is what they are referring to

I hope that made you whole C

It was in this review https://healthyhandyman.com/fluke-115-vs-fluke-117/

Yeah... That's not going to seal!

I am pretty sure I ran Goodyear Eagle GT's in high school that were 225's on stock rims but they did scrub. Now that has been a long time ago...

You really want to balance the pistons separately if you are going to do it. The rods should be balanced big end and little end. If you are going to do it, I would have the shop separate them for you then heat and reassemble when done. Fairly inexpensive to have done. If you're going to spend the time, might as well do it the best way possible You could probably come up with a way to separate them at home. a couple of sockets and a C clamp or something but you need to heat the small end to reassemble them.

I love this forum!!!!

I guess someone here nabbed it. It ended about the time you posted it. Did you buy it Phillip?

I am leaning towards this https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-323-KIT-Multimeter-Clamp/dp/B00DTSLWRA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=fluke+117&qid=1575730850&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-5 One article spoke about "consistant spurious currents", in what conditions do these currents show up? Is this what I see when measuring a section of a 3 way light switch and there is some lower voltage being indicated even though that leg of the switch is off?

Color!

That kanga link that was posted recently has some good info. One video was balancing piston assemblies

Thanks for locating that. In the case of the shifter fork pictured, why can't the lost material be added back? Are they hardened? Some other reason? Just thinking out loud...