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About tleverett

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    oakdale ca

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1990 300zx first car
    1978 280z rebuild and refresh

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  1. @Patcon That's honestly great advice that I didn't think of. I was in such a rush to try to get it done I forgot to get it to a point I could actually enjoy it first. Thanks!
  2. Hi guys! I've got a 1978 280z and after 12 years of sitting the car officially runs again! At this point I'm unsure on the next step between trying to get the car to move under it's own power, or pulling the entire car apart and starting the metal/body work? I'm not sure if it's a smart choice to blow money on stuff I'm just going to redo after I put some systems back in. As it sits the current throttle linkage is like seized in the intake portion that is the piece before the throttle body. Mind you, I have not flushed or replaced the differential, tranny, or radiator fluids. Does anyone have some sort of recommended order of operations for the restoration?
  3. @SteveJ @wal280z after 12 years the car OFFICIALLY runs. It was the ignition relay causing the problems. I bought the "starter" relay mentioned above and after the fuel pumped in it started. WHOOOOOO!! Thanks for the help!
  4. @SteveJI was looking for "ignition" relay, but found this as "Starter" relay If I'm not wrong this is an ignition relay correct?
  5. @SteveJFuel pump control relay Normal: 95-91 yes 94-95 no (you said this shouldnt) With current to 94&95: I can hear the relay actuate 95-91 yes 95-96 no but i believe the number shows resistance? With current and ground: 97-96 no 95-96 no The with current and ground i'm not sure if i did correctly, i tried touching to screw in lightswitch plate. I'm not sure if thats good enough
  6. @SteveJThanks A bunch, I'm going to grab some leads on the way home from work and give the fuel pump control relay a shot! Let me know if I can help at all with the ignition relay.
  7. @SteveJ that's interesting and helpful that you know this stuff. I was so confused because while there was no continuity on the fuel pump switch, it energized and had continuity on the other posts perfectly. I guess it doesn't make too much sense to check non energized continuity because there should be nothing that makes it bad, more so connections and switches are the part that mess up not energizing properly. Sorry if my wordage is bad. Would you still be able to help out making an ignition switch? I still need to check the energized fuel pump control relay because i stopped checking when it didn't have continuity in normal state. Also need to get gator clips because testing with just pins is extremely difficult and tedious lol. But considering i know that switch is bad might as well start somewhere.
  8. @StephenJ I'm sorry I'm unfamiliar with what NLA means. And honestly if you could do that it would be a big help. I looked at the first one, its pins are set up differently on the picture. Is that just a random display image you think, or would i have to find a matching harness and rewire it? It seems z car source has it for $100, ouch. And for the control relay just z car source them and ask right?
  9. Fuel pump relay. 90-91 did not have continuity in normal condition. 93-92 had continuity when +/- was added to 90-91 Fuel pump control relay under normal 95-91 yes. 95-94 no. So it appears all 3 relays are bad. Fml any idea where is best to get them?
  10. @SteveJ @wal280z okay i peeled off enough harness tape to find the 2 splices and honestly not too bad. I checked the voltage at the harness c9 and all four fusable link wires have voltage (small victory, maxi fuses worked correctly). Okay then i was taking off the ignition relay and all of a sudden THE ACC SOUNDS STARTED GOING OFF, but then turned off. I was pretty excited. i kept unplugging/plugging the relay and every once in a while the ACC sound would come on. I tried to start the car but the oltage was dieing on the battery. I didnt hear anyhtring from the fuel pump the whole time however. I also checked the voltage to the t post on the alternator and it had it. The other w/r wire going to the alternator also had voltage. I am going to test all the relays in a little, however it seems for now I do need an ignition relay if not now soon since it is working intermittently. Any ideas where to go for that? I will work on the oil pressure check tomorrow.
  11. @wal280z no sorry, i was referencing a splice the PO put into the car to what I think could possibly be to bypass the fusible links? No idea yet. One step at a time, I'm just trying to get this baby to run lol and ignition/fuel is more important than the headlights currently.
  12. @SteveJ Holy crap that's funny, I've read select pages from that when I was trying to diagnose the ignition switch problem but as I was looking for different information I didn't read through the whole thing til now. Please bear with me on this because I am definitely trying to learn all this stuff, and I greatly appreciate all the help. My dad said he would help me restore a car, but when the car I got wasn't american muscle he didn't really keep interested. Also my friends don't know anything so I haven't been able to bounce ideas off anyone. I'm gonna share some more info about what I've done and we can go from there. Also keep in mind all testing basically needs to be able to be done solo, because I work on it by myself. I did the fusible link upgrade from The 4 w/r wires to the fuses on one side, a 4ga wire to the starter on the other. I cut back the w/b wires a little and are not connected to anything currently. I saw on the link below, there is one fusible link that goes to headlights only, i believe I saw wires that are spliced in to headlights (the wires run to the headlight area) so maybe there is a fusible link problem I didn't realize since I replaced them, but might be the crimps below the links. The best place to check the voltage would be at harness c9 where all the fusible link wires are connected correct? I'm not exactly sure where it is yet, but I just want to have a decent idea of what I'm doing before I get to the car. I will take all the fuel relays (maybe the ignition relay too) and battery home where my FSM is, pick up some alligator clips is so i can test them one at a time to make sure they work correctly. Once I've done the relays, Ill test the oil pressure switch. Just to confirm, it's right next to the oil filter with the 2 wired plug correct? I know the pump wiring goes from the pump to the harness (splits off one part to the ecu I believe) to the relays and has a cutoff on the oil pressure switch and the alternator. I sprayed the relays, oil pressure switch and alternator switch with cleaner and plugged in and out multiple times.
  13. @jonbill you are correct, the fuel pump does not start until turned to the start placement. However I just wasnt sure if there could be a correlation between the ACC mode not doing anything, and the start mode not running the fuel pump. I'm hoping there might be one thing that helps control both, besides the ignition switch. I know the switch is good.