Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


beandip last won the day on December 16 2006

beandip had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About beandip

  • Rank


  • Map Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
  • Occupation
    retired L.A.Fireman & construction business

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    '73 240Z,32Ford 3window,'56Nomad & lots of family cars. Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

Social Sites

  • Website

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I only had a comment on the issue of the head bolts. Always use new ones. As was so completely stated they are one use bolts. I do recommend using copper coat on the head gasket and IMPORTANTLY use ARP torquing grease on the bolts . It makes a big difference.
  2. Hello from Denmark.

    my 240z is goingt the carpainter next week. I love your yellow car. Can I have the color code.




  3. I did this conversion in 2002 and have been using a electric pump from a RX-7 non injected car. Have never had any issues with vapor lock or any problem for that matter. I eliminated the mechanical pump, they act like a heat sink, and block off the opening. I have since changed engines to a F-54 with a P-79 head with cam and headers. No heat shield other that factory and again no problems. I used a simple tee into the block much smaller than the one pictured , attached the pressure switch to the side opening and the sending unit on the other. Looking at the area you cannot even see any di
  4. One additional thing to think about is bump stops. Especially if you decide to lower the front end. The ones available now are urethane and not vary hard . So if you do bottom out it is not harsh. I lowered the front of my 240 just a little over 2'' cutting the coil springs. I needed to add adjustable camber pins to realign the camber. But that was vary easy to do. My car corners flat now and with no air dam even at above 100 the front does not feel light like it did before. I also lowered the rear a little so she sets about 3/8'' lower in front. Not wanting to steel the thread here , b
  5. I don't know of a better place to post this , because I know many of you know Enrique on this site. He and I met through this vary site 13 years back and have been close friends since. Enrique has been ill for some time but lost the fight yesterday morning at 6:30 while being transported to the Hosp. His death was due to complications and was not expected and a shock to us all. I ask that you please remember him for his kindness and willing to pass on his wealth of knowledge. He was a vary intelligent man and a good friend. The whole Z Nissan community has lost a valuable asset and a p
  6. Hi, saw your post on the pin puller and that you mention you have a set of plans for this. By any chance would be willing to send a copy of the plan? I would borrow the tool but I 2 cars I am working on and there be a delay between cars.

    Thank you,


  7. I have never had a over heating problem in my 240 but I have always made sure the coolant was up to date and clean. Even my ZX engine stayed cool with the old 240 radiator in traffic at 104* temps. Now I have gone to a 280 radiator and again no problems. As to the splash pan. I am running one on my 240 and what I found years ago when I ran without it and then with it. Is it helps move the air under the car. With our the pan the car was getting light in the front at speeds above 75 mph. Now with it she is good up to a 100 to 110. Now this is with no cross or head wind. Since I rarely
  8. If it were a vacuum leak that kept the engine from starting it would have to be massive. Also if it were a vacuum leak, with the choke full on it should still start. If all is as you claim here, I haven't a clue what the noise could be. Especially since the valve cover was not removed or unbolted, or the Dist removed. I just re read your post. you did remove the plug wires. Go back and make positive that the connections are correct If you switch two wires .. this could be it.
  9. Jeff, for several years I was loaning these tools to Z drivers here on this web site. In fact I sent the drawings to Zhome and they have them on the site for down load. The first pullers were made of harden all thread but were not large enough . 3/4 Acme all thread offered at a machine supply is what you need. Especially if it is for repeated use. When you attach the adapter to the all thread do not weld it in place. This way this can easily be replaced. Always run a Die over the 12mm pin first. The outer shell that houses the all thread is only 1'' gas pipe with a large washer welded to
  10. Hi Mark, Just try this, Pull the choke to full on. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. The engine should fire right up. The clicking sound, could it be coming from under the dash on the passenger side. If so it is only the relays clicking when you turn the key. Try this then let me know. Gary
  11. For anyone that is interested in this thread. Greased washers instead of using a bearing IS A WAIST OF TIME. Also pulling these pins is not always possible , some are so rusted in place that a 20 ton press cannot remove them. Out of the 80+ that were pulled with the pullers I had to loan. There was only two that actually broke. A few just wore out. NOW The allthread that you find at Home Depot or any of the centers like that , is NOT HARDENED STEEL, and it will fail in short order. You will find that there is a great deal of pressure pulling things out and you need to use quality
  12. On your newly rebuilt engine , I personally would use synthetic and with it it is not necessary to add the zink. I use Valvoline Racing because my engine has about 60k on it or I would be using the synthetic. The Racing oil has ZDDP. If you want further info just ask a cam grinder. Gary
  13. I would drop it in as is. One thing though, remove the valve cover and have look at the cam and all the parts. It should be vary clean if a fresh rebuild. As easy as it is to remove the engine if it is NOT as you hoped I would just install it. You should turn it over though first just to make sure it is not frozen up. pull the plugs and put some ATF in the cylinders , about a half a tsp.each. pour some oil over the cam and rockers prior to starting it if you do install it. And spin it on the starter without the plugs watching the cam and rockers to make sure none of the valves are stuc
  14. I used the stainless carriage bolts along time ago but now have the euro in front. I second the chrome company DENVER BUMPER WORKS! I shipped my rear bumper to them and they did fantastic work. They were fast and vary easy to work with. Even with the shipping it was inline with having the work done locally Plus I had my bumper back and on the Z in less than 10 days!
  15. $25.00 you will find is CHEEP the ones I was loaning out were selling on ebay for around $100.00 . That is for the final design. Remember that to use polly bushings you must either spread the control arm to allow for the extra length of the polly or cut the bushing down. You can use the puller to spread the arm . Simply use two nuts and two washers . Insert the all thread into the control arm and when it comes to the opening add a washer then a nut. Continue inserting the all thread adding another nut then another washer. continue inserting threaded shaft into the second half of t
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.