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foosman

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About foosman

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    Massachusetts

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
    280z

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  1. I'll second Vintage Connections as a good supplier, their stuff is top shelf. I've also had good luck with these guys for wire, although their striping is spiral like everyone else it seems. https://4rcustomswire.com/
  2. I'd start with making sure you've purged all old gas (just because it can't hurt), then look at the accelerator pump per Zed Head's advice. Check to make sure you're getting good squirts in both primaries when you pull on the accelerator rod. Even with a good diaphragm, I find that the passenger side accelerator pump orifice in my 4bbl Holley sometimes gets plugged, especially after sitting all winter (and I run Stabil every fall). I've had to clean out the orifice with a needle in the past when I couldn't get it to flush out on its own.
  3. I'm at that point in the reassembly of my 5/71. Wanting to replace all things rubber after 50 years, I ordered a new diff mount, going on Motorsport Auto's claim that you can just retrofit a later mustache bar and rear crossmember to shift everything backwards to the later driveline geometry. During reassembly a few months ago, I discovered that shifting everything back caused the OE diff strap to be positioned right above the front diff mount bolts, which obviously doesn't work. I went back and forth with MSA about this conversion and the inherent issues, and basically they had no real-wor
  4. I have the Vintage Rubber kit - I had no interest in dealing with the Precision door seal issues given all the negative feedback. The doors fit/close fine so far, but I don't have my glass back in yet so the upper half isn't being tested. Having an issue with their rear hatch seal - it fits fine, but it's being difficult as far as staying stuck to the frame. It's been cleaned multiple times, but is still coming loose in the lower corners. Not sure what my body shop used for adhesive, but it's something I have on my "deal with this later" list.
  5. FWIW - here are pictures of a reproduction Euro Stage 1 spring (IZCC group buy in 2006 via Courtesy Nissan and @Carl Beck) and a Motorsport Auto 1" Lowering Spring (with masking tape labels) from the 1980s. The ES1 spring is fully painted with the correct color dabs for front/rear identification, and they have flattened ends. The MSA springs without flattened ends worked fine for years in one of my 240s, so I'm not sure the flattened end is required to sit correctly in the spring seats. Multiple sources say that ES1 springs will need to be cut with today's KYB gas inserts to get the correct
  6. Thanks for the update - no rush on my end, next week is fine.
  7. Do you know what year 240 this is from? Overall length measurement?
  8. More discussion on the issue, including the "floor jack spread" approach.
  9. For my urethane bushing install, I used a floor jack to spread the "arms" of the control arms ever so slightly, but I think they were off by less than your 4mm. Could also vary by which urethane bushing set you're using - I used the set from Motorsport Auto (black).
  10. Haven't done much business with Zcar Depot, but so far I'm lukewarm about them. Picked up their brake line insulator and bracket clip sets recently - the brake line insulators are fine for 3D printed pieces, but the hole for the fuel return is sized way too big on the curved transmission tunnel insulators for the 1971 OE pipe size. The clamp set is ok, except for they don't provide the correct elongated clamp for the flow guide firewall mount. Sent them an email about these issues, got one response saying that they've sold hundreds of these with no issues, and then they went silent. Seeing
  11. I think the move to Texas A&M was in the late 1990s? I joined up in the early 1990s when John DeArmond was hosting it on his dixie.com domain, IIRC.
  12. This is a nice forum - reminds me of the IZCC email list way back when.
  13. Another option on harmonic balancer rebuilds - I haven't used them personally, but heard good things from others: http://hbrepair.com/
  14. I don't have any personal experience with this one, but I've heard people say good things about it: https://www.yoesheadporting.com/product-page/datsun-240z-260z-280z-cam-oiler
  15. From all I've read, you only need to change the mustache bar and lower transverse crossmember to use the later style diff mount. This seems somewhat consistent with the microfiche data, which shows that the diff front crossmember, mustache bar, and diff mount changes in 7/71, but the driveshaft doesn't change until 9/71 (which is coincident with the change to the "B"-series transmission). Not sure what the change is from diff front crossmember 55411-E4100 to 55411-E8300, but maybe it didn't change in ways that matter as far as the diff mount goes. MSA also seems to agree with this change se
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