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About foosman

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  1. From all I've read, you only need to change the mustache bar and lower transverse crossmember to use the later style diff mount. This seems somewhat consistent with the microfiche data, which shows that the diff front crossmember, mustache bar, and diff mount changes in 7/71, but the driveshaft doesn't change until 9/71 (which is coincident with the change to the "B"-series transmission). Not sure what the change is from diff front crossmember 55411-E4100 to 55411-E8300, but maybe it didn't change in ways that matter as far as the diff mount goes. MSA also seems to agree with this change set, FWIW. In any case, I will eventually be testing this as my 5/71 rear suspension is currently set up with the original diff front crossmember and driveshaft, but later diff mount, later mustache bar, and later lower transverse crossmember. "Original" with respect to the diff front crossmember and driveshaft is assumed, as anything could have been changed in the 20 years before I took ownership of the car, but the other rear suspension pieces that came off the car are all obviously series 1. The rear suspension is still sitting on a rolling cart, so maybe I'll find incompatibilities when I eventually install it back into the chassis. I have all the original pieces, so I can revert if necessary, and the original series 1 diff mount looks pretty good. I just figured I'd replace anything with 50-year-old rubber. I'm sure there are others in the group with more knowledge in this area, so I'll stand corrected if any of my assertions are incorrect.
  2. The Creatures = Siouxsie and the Banshees side project, whose roots are in England.
  3. Interested in a set, possibly two.
  4. Today's usage of "Ha Ha!" or "LOL" would fit as well ... 🙂
  5. Thanks for the translation - the dash is currently hanging from joists in my cellar (limited working space, safest place to keep it while I'm not actively working on it), so upside down is the only way I could snap a shot of it. I had rotated the picture 180 degrees, thinking that might be the 'right way up', but for some reason it posted in its original orientation. Can't make a connection with 'Grass', other than maybe the color green which is this car's original color (#907). Or maybe the assembly line worker was a clairvoyant, and foresaw how much 'green' I'd be pumping into the car's restoration 49 years later.
  6. Seeing as I'm just finishing up my dash restore ...
  7. The one I pulled from my '71 a few months ago measures M16 x 1.5, not 1.75.
  8. Feel free to throw those bumper guards my way - I'll even pay for shipping. :-)
  9. Thanks - only problem is their website says no deliveries to the USA 😞
  10. @SpeedRooWhere did you find originals? Searching on that GMB part number, it pops up on some place called "PartSouq" and other international sites, not sure they're legit.
  11. Thanks for the update, as I'm just starting this process with my 5/71. The templates appear to have downloaded successfully. I agree with you on the neoprene sheets, I was just thinking last night that they might make more sense on the flapper doors rather than try to duplicate the OEM "foam + vinyl". On a related note, I was interested to see that you restored an "E4401" box, same as the one that came out of my 5/71. I'm not sure I can save my original box (quite rusty), so digging through my parts stash I found an "E8801" box from a 1972. The microfiche only lists the "E8801" box for all 240s, so I figured it would probably work. The only difference I can see is that the mounting position of the water c**k is a little different.
  12. Is there any difference between the 27105-E4401 heater box that I pulled from my 07/71, and the 27105-E8801 heater box that I've seen advertised for sale? The microfiche doesn’t even list the E4401 heater box, just the E8801 variety for all years of the 240. I’m guessing someone else has run into this - just want to make sure there aren’t any fitment or functional differences if I replace my E4401 with an E8801.
  13. I stripped the rubber off all the hold downs during the blast process. There was some rust underneath a few of them, and a couple had to be removed and welded back onto the body. Ordered a few of the different size repro covers from 240zrubberparts.com @nix240z. The pieces seem nicely made, but in my case they fit very tightly, and that's before the tabs get a coat of epoxy primer. The body shop has some concern that they might split after install, so they are going to install the few I have after the engine bay is primed, and see how they hold up before ordering the rest. Not sure whether I will ultimately paint them body color or not.
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