Leaderboard

😔

My all-time favourite Bondo Queen was a Ferrari 275 GTB that appeared on the FerrariChat website several years ago. It looked so-o-o-o pretty (and cost the new owner about $1.5 Million at the time to make the pivot from 'just shopping' to 'proud new owner'). Nevertheless, he decided to commission a shop to make it 'even better' (including new paint, of course). Unfortunately, when the shop started to prep the body panels for said new paint job, they discovered evidence of filler in places where it shouldn't have been. Digging deeper (literally), they found that the entire nose was nothing more than Bondo. Up to 1" deep in many places. More exploration (excavation?) found deep pockets of damage that made one think that the car had fallen off the top level of an auto hauler and landed on its roof. The shop was stunned by quality of the bondo slinger's work, calling him an artist. When we made the transition from horses to autos a century or so ago, the method of transportation may have changed but the same shysters stayed loyal to the cause and moved from 'horse traders' to car retailers without losing a step.

He sold it yesterday for 1500$ He did good !

There's no security problem and a chat bot has not taken over the site. lol Our SSL certificate expired the other day and was renewed within an hour. Basically, cert services can no longer offer automatic certificate renewals and must be manually renewed by yours truly. Our website runs all pages through secure (HTTPS) so none of your data can be viewed by a man in the middle. It takes manual intervention to keep a site like this online. :)

It should be a wire coming off the Accessory Relay. In the 73, it's a blue wire. YMMV according to discussions I've seen on this board in the past. Look at where the Accessory Relay plugs into the wiring harness. One of those wires should be going to the center stack with a bullet connector.

My battery cables? I was poking around online and discovered these things called "military battery terminals". Sometimes also called "Marine". The neat part is the basic shape is similar to the OEM lugs, so on a whim, I bought a cheap set off Amazon. So the shape is similar to OEM, but they use a bolt/nut to hold a cable onto the lug. They look like this: Then I removed the original bolt and threaded the hole that the bolt goes through. My first experience tapping lead. Went OK and I learned some about the process. 1) Easiest if you don't have to reverse the tap, and if you DO reverse the tap, do it often, like every half turn or so. 2) It's much easier on a (shallow) through hole because you don't have to reverse the tap, just run the tap all the way through. If the part you're tapping isn't shallow enough to do in one pass without packing the flutes and binding, then you're going to have to reverse the tap, which is a PITA because you have to do it so often. So, all that said... I took the bolt out and tapped the hole: Then I made a brass threaded insert on the lathe: I bought a length of battery wire off ebay. Came with lugs crimped on both ends. I got 5/16 hole on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut that piece of wire in half (so now I have two lengths with different holes on the ends. Larger for the starter mounting bolt, and smaller for the starter solenoid connection. Stripped back the insulation on the ends, and inserted the cable strands into the brass piece I made: I used a small torch to solder the cable into the threaded insert: Looks like this after sodering: Screwed the threaded brass into the lead lug, and a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have this: It's not OEM or one of the aftermarket replicas, but it cost a grand total of maybe thirty bucks in parts*. *And at least six hundred dollars in unrealized labor cost. Hahahaha!!!

320 In the tunnel there is a threaded rod that attaches the cable yoke to the handle. There are actually two threaded connections if you need it. You need to thread it out to get enough slack. Then you can adjust it to where it holds in about 5 or 6 clicks Datsun Z Hand Brake & Hand Brake Cable#20 and #11 both have threads and locknuts

I sold the car and apparently the buyer is sending it to England for restoration.

I have a number of cars that sit for long periods of time. I use non ethanol fuel and Stabil. Typically keep the tanks full, to help with condensation. Rare for me to have a fuel issue and some may sit for 2 or more years, but I try to get fresh fuel in them yearly.

Do you have so little $^!# to do in life that you sit and talk to yourself on some shabby forum?

I used #4 gauge cable. Bought a 60 inch length off ebay with 5/16 lug on one end and 3/8 on the other. Cut it in half* to make two cables. Was cheapest that way. I don't know if this is the exact vendor I used or not, but here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/141679228250 Today's price for the cable(s) is about $16, and the military lugs were $10. So my out of pocket for my two original-ish looking cables was $26 for the pair. *After having been through this once, I would skew the cut point maybe two inches towards the positive side. In other words, I would steal two inches of cable from the negative and add that length to the positive making the positive four inches longer than the negative.

It may well be, but this is a homemade example. The correct tool follows the same rough design, the "cut-out" on the board show the shape and has provision to fit a 3/8 or 1/2 socket drive. The was one on Yahoo auctions a week or two ago...

Yes, a very near solution! More lathe envy...

I believe, the unusual shaped wrench about halfway down on the right side is for valve adjustment to tighten and loosen the lock nuts. The other below it may be for holding the adjusting nut while tightening

I checked JDM Car Parts and Bonzi for reproductions and did not see this one. Anyone have a reproduction of this tag? Maybe good pictures of both sides? The correct green string? I found this pic on a Mecum auction for a Black Pearl.

Zed Head- Amen

Naah. It's just about honest disclosure. That's all. As usual, you've twisted something simple in to a mass of convoluted irrationality. To what end, who knows. Again, sorry DC. I imagine that you can see how these things start. It's not a pissing battle. It's just one guy who feels like he can wizz wherever he wants to.

I also made a set of battery cables and swapped out the ratchet strap hold-down for something a little more appropriate. I know it loses some of that road-kill character, but it's much cleaner now. Here's what I started with: And here's what I got now: And I included the ground wire directly from the battery to the firewall now. Didn't have this before:

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

I'm working on a knowledge post about the S30's automatic transmissions, and for that, I tried to update my document collection. Since I don't have any Auto transmission and don't plant to install one ever, it was obviously never a priority. So recently a few things arrived again from all over the world. Some of them are pretty cool and rare: First, a set of original Nissan Japan 3N71B Auto transmission service manuals from 1971 and 1973. They're not specific to this car, but they have some good general information about that specific transmission. I also got the English version of the earlier 3N71A transmission manual. This time specific for the 240Z. Nothing crazy inside, but good for some reference data if you're a nerd like me. Speaking of Automatic transmissions. I got this cool troubleshooting guide slider, which was issued for both the A and B transmissions by Nissan USA in 1972: The delivery also included some Mikuni triple carb-setup parts: And i also came across this Mikuni PH level gauge for 2 bucks, so I had to get it: It even came with a nice little operation manual leaflet and padded pouch: Then I also got this nice booklet called "Z-car" by driver magazine JP. It's basically a collection of all their S30-related publications from their monthly magazine. I still have to read through all of it, but so far it has some very nice stories, including the original designers of the car. The only downside so far is the overload of praise for Mr. K as the sole man behind the Z, which is of course nonsense. But as said, i only read two pages so far. Speaking of documents. I made a copy of that original Nissalco 240Z special service toolbox manual, as it was falling apart. And I have to say it turned out pretty good for my first attempt at something like this. I picked up a load of tool-related things yesterday and have a lot of pending orders. so stay tuned for another update soon.

Hey! If you remove the screws that indicator light can be removed. Unless the PO glued it on. I get nervous just looking at that picture.

They may have sprayed clear over it.

I was contacted by a former client that a guy wanted me to look at his 72 that he’s owned since 73! I was glad to go look at it - especially being owned that long by the same guy . I was told he was ready to restore it . When I pulled up to his house I was like - holy $^!# that’s bad . The guy had it sitting in storage and needed to proceed with fixing it up since he was moving . He said a shop quoted him over the phone that it would take 1 year and 60k . I proceeded to let him down . He seemed indignant at first . I told him that sentimental value would be the only reason to even start on this car - and I didn’t think there could be any plausible reason to spend 60k . I also told him the reality that the car would sit at a body shop for 5 years . At the age of 72- he said he might be dead by then . I told him I couldn’t - in good conscience- tell him to invest any money in that car . I said with 60k budget you could buy two Z cars that were nice drivers . In the end he thanked me . He really had no clue about restoration and the reality of that adventure . It did have a crack free dash as best I could tell .

Holy crap, literally... That will take a week to wash... but at least give it a scrub before it goes to the crusher.

Looks like it was stored under a heron colony.

I didn't really pay attention to the two ballast resistor part. Did you buy the car with the Mallory already installed? I could imagine somebody adding a resistor if they thought the module was overheating from too much current. But it's obviously not what the instructions call for. If it was mine I'd probably start from scratch and wire it up exactly like the instructions say, and make sure that all of the connections, including the distributor ground, were clean and solid. And also measure maximum charging voltage at RPM above idle speed. The external regulators can allow 15 volts when they're working correctly and I assume more if they get out of adjustment. Maybe somebody tried a bunch of stuff to fix/bandaid an overvoltage problem then never removed their attempts after they fixed the real problem.

I've found most automotive electronics don't like being in the 9v range. And yes, conceivably, high resistance could lower the voltage significantly

Both XenonZcar and Nicoclub have downloadable factory service manuals.

It's fixed. Back to normal programming...

I guess you could rotate the switch and see if the blue wire powers up. I cant think of any other reason for it to power up.

I was thinking more about the Spiderman meme of multiple Spiderman’s pointing at each other. But you’re right. Maybe I am a bot….. Maybe you are a bot…… Maybe we all are bots living in the matrix!

Forgot to say - are you sure it's really Mike? The chatbots stop responding also. Maybe it's too late. We miss you Mike. 😪

I don't think that it takes much to lock up a 12 volt DC motor. There were probably a few rust spots sticking that got polished away once you got it spinning. If it was mine I would just use it until there are problems. If it's not making noise and it's pumping how would a new one be better? They're not really precision instruments, they just push as much fuel as they can according to how much voltage they see. The regulator controls the pressure. Should be fine, I'd guess.

Mike has been active on the site in the past couple hours . He knows about these posts and is choosing to let them continue on. There is significant credence in your theory Zed: I don't think it's training though... I think it's straight-up spamming and it seems we're going to have to live with it. @siteunseen , I challenge you to a game of "Spot the Bot". Hahaha!!!

I am trolling Spot the Bot. It's a new game I like instead of telling brain dead people the same stuff over and over.

I want one, Then again I want my project to be on the road also!!!

Looks like a nice clean car. GLWS

I also think it's for the AC (compressor motor switch). Nissan supplied a similar, blue-colored wire (with a bullet-style connector) for that purpose as part of the Z's mini-harness (Item #13 in the diagram above).

The Project Farm guy just put out a video about fuel stabilizers. Very interesting. (Let's see if it attracts any bots.) TLDW - Sta-bil was the best.

I actually have one of these original ones on my other tool wall (See top left), But I realized there are various different versions for different engines The two missing ones have each a different part number. There was one included in the set (not shown in the picture) but that again was not an original Kent-Moore tool, but a 3rd party product (Hazet or so). Not bad, but I'm trying to fill my wall with the original stuff :-)

If I were looking for a Z this car fits the bill. Probably scary fun to drive. In the comments it sounds like the seller is upfront about some things that need to be fixed like the power steering.

I reported the post above, but still not sure the report function is working. There are other bots I've reported that are not yet nuked so I'm not sure if I'm doing this right.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

BTW.. if you really want to put some fuel into a tank of anything/any machine, i use the fuel for 2 and 4 cycle engines used in gardening machines.. they stay good a long time, are more expensive but work the best and keep things not getting clogged up with varnish! The fuel out of the tank i put in the car that i'm driving at that time. (Often the 240z as it's used round the clock and also can run on bad fuel or old fuel.. i always say if i pee in the tank he will probably drive on that as well! 🤣 )

Refer to the figure below (taken from the FSM), which shows how the inner and outer rockers and the floor pan come together. The arrow on the outboard flange of the floor pan shows how the flange aligns with the inner rocker. Note the horizontal rib (with the 'hockey stick' shape at the forward end) that's pressed into Inner Rocker ('Inner Sill). The top of the Floor Pan's outboard flange (designated in the figure by the small black circle) should align with the lower edge of the rib. The line of spot welds that joins floor pan to inner rocker sits about halfway up the floor pan's outboard flange (see photo).

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

You meant N47 =MN47

1970 SERIES 1 !!! 🥴 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-139/

Last thought... I think that welding the buckets to the fenders and removing that seam line is a great improvement to the looks of the car. When done right, of course.

The internet is why we cannot have nice things 🙄