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I'm happy to say this car is an unrestored example, other than a respray several years ago. Well documented 50,000 mile car. Sat in storage most of its life.

Time to move on... @HLS30 minus H, enough. You had your points to make, and either you made them with the audience or you didn't. Not saying you were wrong or right. Nobody is attacking you now, and you've added some great info and perspectives/opinions, so thank you for the contributions, but its time to stop whatever battle you want to wage...or, as others have suggested, start it elsewhere and have at it. Don't lose sight of why all of us love Z's and what this thread is about.

Got it. Yes, I do have a fire extinguisher in the garage, however I've never had to use it, so it's probably time for a new one. At least now, they won't be so close to where I'm usually welding... Only had a short time today, so I bought a 12' 1x10 board & made a storage shelf on the beam, so I have somewhere to stow the less used items I still need keep track of, vs. the stuff I put up above in storage & subsequently forget I own... Added a support ledge All of the boxes on the lower half contain electrical connectors and terminals. No point putting them in the storage bins, there are too many variants Put up the storage bins on the left So happy I got the pegboard Next I want to clear this wall, so I can make shelving more uniform, and maybe some more pegboard - I'm loving that stuff. It's already been useful. I feel like a kid in a candy store, can't believe it's taken me so many years to start properly organizing my tools & supplies. Much of what was here, is now in the back ,at least temporarily. There is also all this mess in the front to figure out - MIG, TIG, Plasma, Spot welder, Oxy/Acetylene, and the V8 drivetrain that needs to get installed in the pickup truck.. I also want to get rid of these shelving units on the North side (currently loaded with stuff that was on the other side) to make it easier to move the car in & out without occupying quite so much floorspace

Several Georgia Z Club members got together this morning to go to one of the local car meets.

I would expect one of the primary variables would be surface area. However, you should know... Thermo was my least enjoyed class of anything I ever had. Ever. And (like most people), I learn better when I like what I'm learning. @Jeff Berk, What casting method are they going to use? Are you going to supply them with a wax model so they can do an investment casting? Making a 3-D model that they will press into a sand casting? What?? Honestly, I can't get over the belief that someone is willing to do a one-off casting of that thing for $40!!! Unless you are supplying the consumable model and assuming all the risk of whether it works or not, I'm completely floored by that cost!!

I'm getting back to installing an LSD in my R180 but I was concerned about the LSD heating up the differential during Auto-X. I drilled/tapped a hole in the fill plug for a temperature sensor but I also was looking into an alternate differential cover with extra volume and cooling fins. I located a family-run foundry operation that will do a one-off aluminum casting for $40 plus $3/pound so I designed one. Anyone want to comment on the design?

Beautiful series-one you have there! Does it still have the original wooden steering wheel?

Since it's a one off with no plans to sell, I suspect it may just be a passion project of some Nissan employees. Who knows. It does seem a bit odd and out of nowhere. Pretty cool regardless.

You got a lot in that space! Considering it's not very large

More fins is a good idea. https://www.z1offroad.com/nismo/nismo/nismo-rear-differential-cover-upgrade-r200-p-2339.html I wonder if they're using a 3D printing/additive manufacturing/stereolithography tool to create a wax form. Lost wax casting. Probably a lot easier to make the form with the new printers. Zip it out, pack it, pour it, send it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting#:~:text=Lost-wax casting – also called,cast from an original sculpture.

Gentleman, Can we please stop this nonsense. Please take your argument somewhere else Please.

@HusseinHolland What you've done is amazing. You should design the layout for the next Space Station. Just looking at your shop is like a museum, awe inspiring the way you make use of every available inch of space. Cliff

DC871F - your 1/71 tells this tired old Datsun Mechanic - no, not a "tech" - all he needs to know for ID purposes.

ITB update! I got the dog bones/ rods shortened, design and had the cable mount made plus the fuel rail mounts. It’s almost ready to bolt in! I might try some surface finishing on the cnc intake. I don’t love the look of it.

When I called in December they said they will be doing aluminum in 3-4 months so they are likely a very small, busy operation. I'm going to enlarge the entire structure using a percentage of around 6.5% to allow for shrinkage*. I guess if dimensions are critical, you don't use cast aluminum which is likely why you need shims when assembling a cast aluminum differential. *Every time I see the word shrinkage I think of that Seinfeld episode.

Thank you - the garage footprint is only inches over 18' sq. I'm used to constantly moving stuff around anytime I work on a project - that more than anything I'd like to reduce. Adding the 4' on the back helps immensely (given the scale) - moving forward I'm going to draw up plans to add on to the North wall, again, not much because I don't want it to be too obtrusive going in towards the house/deck. Even if I add just a single floor 6' additional width over the 18' depth, it would give me room to clear the main floor completely as a work space, which would be great, and it wouldn't overly impact the side yard. I still prefer to work on the cars outside if the weather permits, but much of late winter & early spring is either too cold or too wet...

He said he's going to Pertronix II, so there won't be points.

I agree, more fins. If you look at the factory R200 diff cover it has a number of thin fins

The low cost of the 3D printers probably opens up a lot more opportunity for casting. Used to be, I think, that you'd need a CNC machine to cut a form. The upfront costs were very high. Hard to keep up. I saw a guy make actual usable durable robust electrical parts with his printer. The "work" was mostly calculating and using CAD to make the computer file. Kind of disappointing, no handling of hard metal tools and setting up the machine to cut the piece. Life just keeps getting physically easier. Jeff Berk, does that family shop have a web site? Would be interesting to browse.

That's what I was asking. "Investment casting" is another name for lost wax.

Not an Engineer, Would multiple smaller fins dissipate more heat? Probably a question for @Captain Obvious.

Can we all agree it was a very loose North American term that implied nothing more than a hatch vent move? Nothing will be gained by making a mountain out of a molehill.

Never worked in a corporate setting, but I think I've heard my wife who does work in a corporate setting say many times over the years to (Take it offline). Zed tried to by offering a pertinent discussion on the thread "Z's on Bat and other places", but that trial balloon got popped as soon as it was floated. I really enjoy this thread, I really dont want to unsub. I havnt looked, but is there a specific 240z thread discussing the topic at hand, which I think began with someone calling a car a series 1 or something. BTW, I own a 1/71 car, that was one of the last few made in the image of a 1970, I wont dare call it that forbidden name though.

If you use a bit of rubber silicone grease around the shaft before installing the boot, it will be a water proof seal there for many years to come.

Don’t forget to add the drain pipe from the cowl drain to out the wheel well. Don’t let it drain into the inner fender again.

Was a frustrating day in the shop today! Can't work on the heater because I'm waiting on a valve. Can't install the fender because the weather strip I had for fender sealing panel is not thick enough. I also need to touch up the engine bay paint. Can't install the hatch because I am gluing the hatch boots in... on and on So I piddled some I did get the catch down stoppers in. They are available new from Nissan currently I found the bolts for the hatch but two are the wrong finish. So I will need to redo them. I did glue the hinge boots in. I used a black latex caulk. I didn't want to use anything more tenacious in case I need to get them out I pulled the dash out and was going to clean it up. Wow, is it rough!! I guess I will see about getting a new dash. Where is the best place to source the reproduction dashes? I had thought I would try repairing this one but I didn't realize it was totally broken through in a couple of places The real pisser of the day was the windshield!!! We had it most of the way in, up around the passenger top corner and up to the other top corner and I pushed on the lower passenger corner to seat it and broke it... Zcar depot has them but the freight quote was like $400+ I will call my local auto glass company and see if they can get one. I plan on seeing if they will install it too. We'll see what they say. Many times they won't guarantee they won't break it. I obviously can break them on my own... All in all, a wizz poor day in the shop!!