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Also to update on marker light screws Yes, the come black and they are stainless So I bead blasted it Then I buffed it for about 5 seconds That should work...

I picked up the panels the other day

Hi Mart, Matte finish i read somewhere is original the tailpanel,not clear coated. Yes this is 2k paint but not shiny. The rear deck lid i put clear coat yes.. These are my other classics, the Mustang just got new paint.. . The Kreidler 50cc is from 70 the Yamaha scooter from 1998, but these are getting classics slowly, and i wanted an original one, since i had that scooter when i was 16😄. Currently putting together a 65 zundapp 50cc to. This will be the last project so far..

Their shopping site doesn't show it. Seems likely the main site is out of date. If you blend 10W-30 with 20W-50 do you get 15W-40? Hmmm.... https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/collections/vr1-racing-motor-oil

I would think mixing different weights of the same make oil would be okay, but not ideal, or convenient. Here's a handy ZDDP chart if searching for another. I can't believe what oil costs nowadays! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/zddp-content-chart-high-zinc-oil-list-brand-breakdown/32479

How about a failing voltage regulator? Why did you install the new parts last fall?

If I did my research right, the Toyota Celica Supra & Cressida FPRs should operate around the correct pressure. I was thinking that with the female threaded end you could possibly find a barb that would allow you to connect it to the fuel rail with a short piece of hose.

13.2 V @ 2000 RPM is not good. As suggested earlier, contemplate replacing your voltage regulator. The red wire is not original to the car. You might want to see where that wire goes to. Someone may have "fixed" something only to cause other problems.

Is the red cable coming off the starter going to audio equipment in the car? If so disconnect that until you get this figured out and move on from there.

If the starter or solenoid gets hot you may have a bad ground connection. Shine up the contact surface on the cable and the block. Might help.

Was the starter and and alternator failing at that point? The reason I ask is what’s available today is not Mitsubishi. Mostly Chinese junk. Many threads here relating to multiple defective parts right out of the box. Most folks now have it tested before they leave the store for that reason. Please let us know what you bought and where. The starter from the pic doesn’t look like it was a rebuilt original. @stevej has posts out there on how to take voltage measurements on the charging system. It’s pretty in-depth and worth the effort.

Thanks ya'll. So, if memory serves, last fall the car was behaving like it was starved for voltage when starting, and the battery was pretty old, and I did the old "while I'm in there" with the alternator and starter, cause I wanted the car to be reliable and have two less things to fail. Possibly dumb in hindsight, but if you think that's dumb, boy have I got stories for ya. I recall struggling with the new alternator at one point, and going around about internal regulation, as well as the in-line fuse piece for the starter. I will take a battery reading with the car at 2k RPM, and how it behaves relative to throttle, and report back. Thanks.

Might just be more than one variable here. Give us a history of what you changed when and why. What was the first symptom back in time that involved changing parts.

Voltage is only one indicator of battery health. First, what is connected to the red wire that is going to the positive terminal on the starter? That load could be part of why your ammeter is behaving the way it is. When the ammeter needle is on the positive side of the gauge, that means current is flowing from the alternator to the battery. After recharging the battery after starting, the only loads that should make the needle move right are the brake lights and horn. Even then, those shouldn't cause much of a deflection in the needle. Other than that mystery load, the needle moving to the right could indicate a failing battery as your alternator keeps pushing current into the battery. It could also indicate an alternator overvoltage condition. If the battery health isn't good, that could cause issues with starting. The issues with the car stalling could be related to improper re-wiring, bad battery, or something else. With the car running at around 2000RPM, what is the voltage at the battery?

Real Wheels in Independence, Iowa. www.realwheel.net 1-800-722-3847 I run a 16x10 with 5" backspacing on my Autocross car. Very light wheels, but expensive.

These reviewers on Amazon use the Standard PR134 on BMW motorcycles. Up to 1990. Who knew. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-PR134-Regulator/dp/B000C7YAJ8#customerReviews

I looked up some other images without the plug in the female thread. It does look like a pipe thread, so probably JIS, which is interchangeable with BSP threads. Finding a hose barb, or even an adapter to thread it onto the end of an extruded fuel rail should be no problem. The unanswered question is what the pressure rating for this FPR is. I tried to look up the specs, and even found a table to cross-reference a dozen equivalents. But none of them go beyond listing what cars they're a direct fit for. EDIT: After some more digging on Toyota forums using the OEM part number, I'm seeing the expected fuel pressure at idle around 36psi, which is correct for our cars.

Is this a commercial ? HTM machines 😮 Did you also put a layer of 2 comp. clearcoat on? You can get those these days in a rattle can. They have a valve on the bottom to mix the 2 components, works very good and your work is like from a pro, i mean they do 1 comp color and then 2 comp clearcoat. Then the paint is good protected.

I've read that the VR1 10W30 doesn't have as much ZDDP as 10W40. I also read somewhere that they quit making 10W40. I think 20W50 is too heavy for our upcoming temps. I guess 10W30 it is...

Here's a 76, for the three piece rail, just to round things out. A person could insert a T fitting and hang the FPR off of it in a pinch.

Here's 78. The barbs are different but the orientation is about right. The ZX looks about the same I think the mounting bracket might be slightly different. I found an eBay FPR that is slightly different. Says it's for the ZX's. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304857213677?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-EOJC1W2RHK&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bBzFtXzvTQO&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 1980

Volvo also used a 2.5bar reg on several models (1983 240 2.3l - about $50 on Rockauto)- one version has a barb return line, but uses a flare fitting for the feed. I don't know what Datsun did on the later 280's. Is it identical to the beetle version?

@Captain Obviouscan’t I at least get credit for 24hrs!!😂😂😂

Finished replacing the front marker lamps and front signals with LED bulbs, that circuit is now the same temp. as the rest of them, at least as far as my finger can tell. Thank you gentlemen.

Well, the brake light was definitely in the wrong hole. I was able to correct that, and it now works as it should. The high beam indicator also works correctly. Now I have to try to find the open hole to insert the instrument light (by feel). It's times like this I wish I had smaller hands and less arthritis.

Never really ran it much with the dual points. It did start but it was intended to be a restoration project since I purchased it. All I can say is that it ran, not well but It had so many other issues I didn't worry about it too much. Thanks again to all for your help. I have a few more minor gremlins to deal with but close to the finish line.

I'll take a look sometime, but I hadn't registered any issues. Maybe I've just been of the mindset that I enjoy seeing the gauges at night.

I went with S30world tank as mine was is very rough condition. It was a perfect fit, one of the best aftermarket items I have purchased.

@HusseinHolland had some posts about the same problem. In the past I had modified an adjustable regulator to be vacuum modulated. Made me get on to Rockauto and look around. VW's Super Beetles had 2.5 bar EFI in the seventies. The FPR's are cheaper than the Nissan versions. Should be able to make it work. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,1978,super+beetle,1.6l+h4,1423178,fuel+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124

I had to do something about the rear deck lid it was starting to get bad ( respray was in 2016 . The paint is still fine, the rust is starting in places out of sight. So far around the doors is still fine, it was only in the rear. And i think the tail light panels look close enough 😌

Here's one that looks more like the 2023 Z. I really like these and have had good luck with Toyotas. Jeff you are my hero, well you and Guy...many more too.

Car is back on the road..... Yesterday we - - installed the new clutch slave - swapped out the strut rod bushings - swapped out the steering rack bushings I was hoping for a more stable feeling but it wasn't as drastic as I was hoping. Tim M