Leaderboard

There is only 1 bid on record for that username (for that "engine") and no comments on record. It can make a reasonable person wonder.

Those really aren't frame rails in my mind. I mean they are, but they aren't. They're really more like floor reinforcements or floor braces. The frame rails in my mind run from the firewall to the radiator support. Depends what's rotted... Floor supports dont scare me too much. I have driven some Zs with no floor boards pretty hard I mean real Flintstone cars! Rotted front frame rails is totally different. Your front steering rack, suspension, motor all bolts to that! Especially the section that tends to rust first. I personally prefer to choose the direction of my car versus the rust choosing it for me 😉

Finally tracked down an original set of 1971 plug leads (had to buy a complete car to get them!), they are different to 1970 in having white lettering and the #6 plug boot with a 45 degree bend. Just have to model that up in Solidworks and print out a test piece. The 1970 wires and boots are all sorted and modelled. Print samples work fine on the test engine.

Sure enough, a few weeks later on Y!.jp, up pops this piece for less than $200. Looks authentic enough. Now I have a spare.

My thought is that the Z cars that bring big money on BaT are bone stock. Even though all the mods are tasteful and make the car better, the BaT crowd might not agree. I hope the OP gets what he wants wherever he decides to sell it.

I think that I would try to sell it as is. There may be someone out there with the desire for an early Z and the skills to restore it. However, I wouldn't be able to resist the urge to get it running if the engine will turn over. And, having been there before, prep it for a test run around the neighborhood.

I used SilentCoat MLV with the silver backing. Watch yourself as the edges can get razor sharp. I didn’t go for the full coverage as some do as it’s overkill and adds too much weight. But, what I did find made a massive difference were: 1. Trans tunnel - fully covered. I feel a lot less heat coming off there now during and after a good blast. 2. Footwells - on those I went MLV where the original insulation would have been with 3mm self adhesive closed cell foam over the top 3. 1x piece Slap in the middle of the door skins and 3mm closed cell foam between door cards and doors. 4. The panels behind the seats 5. The rear boot deck area and wheel well act like a giant speaker so the flat bits got covered 70% and the wheel well about 50% - the wheel well may be worth fully covering for aesthetic reasons. Then overlaid with loose (not glued down) 25mm closed cell foam under the deck carpet. 6. Strut towers got MLV 7. Rear wings got a half or 3/4 piece each. 8. Oh and a couple of pieces of MLV on the fire wall - especially important on the exhaust side. BIG BIG difference when shutting doors or cruising. A lot less wind and road noise as the door skins etc don’t vibrate the same way anymore. Totally worth the little weight penalty. But certain areas like the strut towers and trans tunnel benefit from full coverage. It also helps the vinyl sit flatter. You need earphones to hear the difference but here’s a video I did for a friend: The panels without it rang like a bell. Trouble is, now I hear the transmission whining and all manner of other stuff I couldn’t hear before :p

To echo other commenters, grounds are often overlooked in cases like this, and also, the round slip on connectors at the sending units do get loose over time. Seeing as the gauges share a common ground, it would be the first place to look. Clean to bare shiny metal, and use dielectric grease when reinstalling to prevent further degradation over time.

I used the brand Canopus from amazon with great success about 2 months ago. I used the black color instead of the aluminum color. I did install it ever where possible even in the spare tire well. I removed the vapor tank and install it in that side, the antenna side and also the hole rear deck. I did remove the seats and covered the whole floorboard, drivers and passenger. what a difference in the ride and maybe I added 30lbs. no big deal for the weight, for the way the car rides. I am going to do the riser panel behind the seats and as much of the doors as I can, and I will stop there. maybe at the end game I added 35-40 lbs tops. it was worth it for the quiet ride. it is a must do project.

Agree that it PROBABLY is the bullet connector on the harness that connects to the temp sending unit - that was my issue a while back as well

Yep, using an o2 sensor and an AEM air/fuel gauge I was able to get it to run stoich after the forum and I worked through this thread. I was actually pretty astonished at how well it holds stoich at freeway speed as long as your TPS is set right - it won't hold it while driving around town, you kind of tune the AFM so that it runs stoich at highway speed (it will run richer around town by design and won't lean-out) Here is how to do it: - get rid of ALL vacuum leaks using the hand pump and cigarette method - once you are SURE all are gone, run through the EFI bible and check all sensors to make sure they're in spec - once all your vacuum leaks are gone, your TPS is set correctly per atlanticz, lean the AFM back 3 teeth (counterclockwise) and it will run stoich at highway speed, sound/feel healthier around town, and smell more like a modern car - I'd HIGHLY recommend doing this with an air fuel gauge/o2 sensor so you can be sure your numbers are right, but if you do everything above, you should be good

do NOT start this again. you are wrong, you have been proven wrong on the previous 8 page thread 10 times over, all modern cars have this, you are wrong, stop spreading wrong information, go to autozone or even your favorite nissan or frankly any oem dealer and ask for an o2 sensor and they will give you one stop.

Thanks for the reply, the front rails on my 280z are good, no rust on the firewall, floor pans are good. Lol on the Hanna Barbera reference. Yabba dabba doo.

I wouldn't put too much faith in the 'JDM' part of the description by the vendor. The term is often misused. In this case I think it more likely that the vendor is referring to something that was made in Japan, and has come from Japan. EGR was required in Japan on the S130-series and other domestic market models which used the L28 engine. The L28 was available in Japanese market Cedric and Gloria models from 1975. Factory type code of this spec L28 engine is shown on the factory label. 'HL469V'. That's the key to correctly identifying it.

(Btw.. i was talking about the new crate engine) NO, we didn't need the EGR in 1981 also no cath.. Those came with the 300zx somewhere in 1988! If this engine has no linings in the exhaust manifold it could be a Dutch market engine. (Maybe the rest of euro also..) but the partnumber says california.. (If you compare the number on the valvecover and in the link i gave above.)

I just stripped all the tar from my deck in a 71 and lo and behold lots of surface rust where there was zero indication. It's worth chipping up if you want to do it right. One tip, use the dry ice method rather than hammer chissel or whatever brute force you go with. It comes up incredibly easily with zero mess as the ice passes straight to gas. I did my whole trunk in maybe an hr or less with very large pieces just popping off after they froze. Just wear protective gloves and a mask or keep the doors open so you don't get so much C02. There's plenty of you tube videos on dry ice tar mat / sound deadener removal.

Agree with the 'get it running' if you can guys. I bought my current 240 for way less than he wanted because I couldn't drive it, hear the motor or anything. He said it was something simple... Turns out it was worth the $5,000 asking price. I paid $2,000.

Looking at just these pics is not sufficient for an assessment one way or the other.

Ad says JDM, so it should be Japan. It's an odd combination. N47 head and no EGR, yet head temp sensor. Wasn't the US the only market that got the L28 before 1979?

It makes me wonder how many of us could have, or still can, build a display engine. At the very least it's a very inventive way to sell near worthless parts.

I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. I found a 6/70 that was in fair condition. Complete, etc. I got the car restored by a POS body guy. He made the car worse than it was when I got it. They had to redo all of the POS guy's work and he damaged good sheet metal. I had a choice between scraping the body and selling the parts or fixing it. I am fixing it. They second body shop has had the car now for about 6 months. I am pretty picky about the level of detail and the guys I found are doing a fantastic job. I dont think I could have found a better body shop. The replacement KF panels really helped too. I can send you pictures if you want. I google mapped and you are about 3 hours from their shop. I think I will have the car back in about 30 days. Maybe less. You are welcome to stop by and take a look if you want. I am near Columbia City. I bet my car was in better shape than yours when I bought it but I bet your car is in better shape than mine was when I took it to the second body shop. I would get it fixed in a heartbeat. Best of luck.

Seller says that the block has no main caps which is why he planned to scrap it. I'm not blaming the seller as he sounds honest in the ad. I can't figure out why anybody would bid more than about $50 for it. I'm also surprised BaT accepted the item.

Old topic, but just had issues with my gauge. Wanted to share. Pulled the gauge and, and heard a rattle. opened it up and one of the mounting tabs for the front plastic lens broke off and was wedged in mechanical assembly. Removed the piece and gauge is working like a champ again.

Hey, do we have any of that Plutonian Nyborg left?

One of the best rock and roll groups ever, and FROM THE NETHERLANDS !!!!!! WATCH THIS !! It's a song from ... 1973 !! The band was playing from 1961 till 2021 !!! that's 60 years!! and look the energy that the drummer still has!! WOW!

Steve, do you mean the connector for the water temperature sensor that screws into the thermostat housing?

It could be a bad connector at the sender for the water temp. I've had that happen before. The wire got fatigued, and it was almost broken off.

Per the TSB - the change over from Yellow to White was at HLS30 31643. That would have been an 05/71 Date of Mfg.

Let me be the first to be controversial and I know this isn’t the question you asked: I fundamentally disagree with doing them hot! Reason? Can you keep the engine temp constant at “hot” over the 30-60 mins it takes to do the job? But cold is not going to fluctuate. My personal experience has been that by the time I finish and go back to cyl 1 to double check, the clearances have changed! ;) So for a rookie like me, I like doing them cold. Secondly, this web page I LOVE: https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/l28.html I do mine a fraction tighter than spec but let me not elaborate with an essay as to why.

Sorry, but there is still n such thing as an air-to-fuel ratio sensor.