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Late Wednesday afternoon, when the eye came ashore, I was thirty-five miles North of the center. The worst of the wind speed was just South of me. I don't know what wind speeds we actually saw, but it was pretty fierce. All the flooding and storm surge was South of me also. Carl and Jim Frederick are sixty miles North of me so I would think they made it through fine. We have lots and lots of wind damage. Trees, signs, awnings, traffic lights. all blown over. Some areas of town have no power, but I do. Cellular is spotty also. Most of the major roads are passable - full of tree trash. Two trees down on my street. Today's music will be Chainsaw Symphony.

Went on a memorial cruise for a local car guy a few weeks ago and just found this photo posted. Nice photo of my car.

If it looks gray in pictures - might just be the lighting and angle of the light source etc. That said - if it looks gray or has blueish undertones etc when you see it in person- it isn't factory. Factory Silver in person looks Silver as in that picture. Factory Silver used "Fine" silver metal flakes only. My first 240Z was Silver... got a scratch in the passenger door about 14 months after I picked it up from the Dealer. Spent several months trying to find the right body shop that could match the paint - the fourth shop got it right. Spent months looking very closely at that Silver from the factory. Very hard for shops using completely different types of paint today to blend the correct color - it can be done - if they are willing to shoot enough test panels large enough. Chevy Guys - have the same problem getting Cortez Silver correct as well on Corvettes/Camaro's/Chevelles from the 60's/70's. I had that on my 1970 SS396 El Camino - it is all but identical to the original silver on the 240Z's. Sill if today you look at a hundred pictures of Cortez Silver - only about 1 in 20 looks like the correct shade. Too many of them have gray or blue undertone, or a sand/gold undertone. FWIW Carl

Has To Have A VIN - or it didn't happen.

So much opportunity but so many mistakes. In the meantime Banzai Motorworks notches Gold Medallion #4!

Well I've been driving for over 55 years and I don't even know HOW to spell rheostat!

Kinda doesn't matter much since (it seems) you guys have presumably hit on the root issue, but is there any explanation for this? Terns unstoned and all that.

Mr.Patcon: Clearly, the obvious best solution, and one I would have pursued were I not machine-tool disadvantaged. But then, the situation with press-fit gears on the spindle shafts has been previously well addressed. The core issue of this thread is the symptoms of failed pick-up coils, the potential dire consequences in the event of their non-performance/failure, the complication of diagnosing such a non-performance/failure, and the current difficulties in sourcing properly operating replacements. Bottom line, beware of Standard Products' replacement pick-up coils, and of Rock Auto's lack of due diligence in distributing products that are well below an acceptable level of performance. As consumers, we should demand better. Just $.02 from the cheap seats.

We are expected to get a good bit of rain and possibly some relatively high winds but shouldn't be too bad. I'll know more Saturday or Sunday

all clear, no damage.

Thanks for checking in, all good in my area!

Lets hear from our Florida members on their status after the storm.

Zspert, you have my respect - I don't mean any disrespect, however, that is very, very, very... silver. As in, doesn't look original to me. Don't get me wrong... I love that silver. But, is it the original silver for 70/71? I am close to having the car I am restoring painted and am planning to go with silver, which is the color it was originally painted. However, I am concerned that I won't like the factory silver which often looks grey in pics. What paint line was used for that car? Anyway, from the one pic, that car looks very, very, very nice. Would love to see more pics. I also have an order typed up for several items from you - some of the last items that I will need to procure for my restoration.

And tonight will be Generator Blues.

That one has bypassed the intake coolant flow too. I assume that was OE in '73? I know my early '72 had it. But not anymore!

Never seen a non-aluminum bell housing on an L series transmission.

Okay, finished tracing out the tach wires. The feed was correct, goes through black/gray to coil negative. The plastic power connector was removed in the past, so the + to tach was wrong. I added the green + wire, spliced into green to hazard switch. If I need to add a resistor for the tach feed, I'll deal with that later if needed. Took all the heater control cables off and oiled them up. The little threaded brass inserts that hold the lever panel to the back of the center console had broken off, so I JB welded them back in place. Hopefully they will hold.

I thought it might be. It's just how he rolls. Hasn't changed. Put a magnet on it to see what it is. Doesn't really matter for your purpose but will confirm zKars's theory. Actually, all he (or the guy that does his work for him) had to do is what zKars's described in his thread, posted above. Weird how that circle got completed...

Big money for a resto'ed 73. It even has the splash pan underneath. Crazy 8's... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-205/

Aha! I think I have it! The location of that switch hole tells me that’s a 4 speed bell housing, assuming the right of the picture is toward the engine (front). I see the ramp and flat spot on the rod in the first video, and they are forward of the hole. If the hole were ahead 1.25 I think, it would be in the right spot. Now as to why that trans has a four speed bell housing, this is normally done when the five speed came from a later Datsun truck/car with the engine vertical, so the bell housing clocking is wrong, so you have to get a Z bell housing and what do you have on hand but a 4 speed…. Didn’t I just do a thread on how I modify that shift rod to move the ramp in line with the 4 speed hole? Just grind down the rod and make a new ramp further back in line with the rev switch. Simple, right….

Looks like the correct hole. The switch button would sit right next to the ramp edge. Just a tiny movement moves the button. Before you start filing away at the button you could just thread the switch in to the hole partially. You could use a meter to see when the contacts close then back it off a thread. Then put the transmission in reverse and see if it works correctly. If it does then a washer or some filing should get you there. This is what you should see in the hole when it's in reverse and not.

Eons ago, I road raced British cars with SU's and learned a lot about tuning them for performance. Hitachi's are just the same and I would say if you wanted to play carburetor tuner, the Hitachi's would be fun and simple. Read some SU tuning books. You can get a lot out of a set of Hitachi's.

Lost power Wednesday afternoon. Came back on late last night. Still no Spectrum yet. Verizon just came back up this morning. My house is fine. Lost a fence and part of the aluminum roofing on the back of the shop itself. Overall not bad. Could have been a lot worse. Hope everyone is ok.

I believe that is the "light box" for the cigarette lighter illumination lamp. The bulb is in there, and they use a fiber optic cable (the black cable on the left side in your pic) to transfer that light over to the cigarette lighter.

Looks like we may be wondering how @Patcon is now.

Glad to hear. Carl should be pretty safe then too. It looks like Naples and Ft. Myers got the worst of it.

All good here. Lots of wind damage around the neighborhood and my house took a minor amount of damage but Irma, a couple of years ago, was worse. We didn't get much flooding.

Couple tags off the top of my head: @Dave WM @Derek @Serban @tunesnxs @26th-Z

So let's agree NOT to post on each others' threads (and that includes Alan too) - OK ? Pax Britannica. 😊 I didn't understand until now the level of animosity you have towards me - someone you've never met and don't know.

One owner, garage kept…

I’ve made Wally a set of my “new” reproduction air cleaner hardware. We he gets them, he can report on appearance and functionality. The hex coupling nuts I used are 13mm wrench rather than the stock 14mm, and I make them by threading in an M8 bolt and locking it in place with a thin jam nut and red lock tight. The wing bolts are made from a M6 wing nut and an M8 bolt that has the end removed and turned down and threaded for M6 to attach the wing bolt. Red locktite and torque lock it in place. My reproduction cup washer are included. These are the raw materials. Comparison of an OEM wing bolt (top) and mine. Ears are dang close to the same size and shape wize. Slightly different surface finish.

I’m kind of ashamed to say that I got it from California Datsun. Unfortunately I didn’t know their reputation before I purchased it. That being said I’m hoping it is actually a rebuilt transmission and not just a used one that he painted to look rebuilt/refurbished. I’m not sure what the front case is made of but I think you guys hit the nail on the head that California Datsun put a 4 speed housing on it and didn’t line up the reverse switch properly.