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About eastcoastz

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  1. I have noticed that when I toggle between the high/low beam, about 50% of the time when I switch back to the low beams, the headlights completely turn off until I lightly touch/press the T/S switch in towards the steering wheel again. Not a full "click" again... just lightly touching the T/S stalk will cause the headlights to come back on. Any suggestions for how to get this to toggle properly without having the headlights shut off? @dhp123166 - just thought I would get your thoughts here too since you rebuilt/refurbished the switch... any ideas? Thanks in
  2. Thank you @SteveJ yeah you were definitely right with the analogy. I appreciate it. I have already cleaned the fuse box pretty well with a vinegar dunk, contact cleaner and brushes. My guess is maybe the contacts are dirty in the hazard switch which is causing the voltage to not be strong when it goes from the hazard switch to the flasher unit. Yes I know I should do it the right way and rebuild the hazard switch but is there harm in leaving a new 12v connection (with an in-line fuse) going to the flasher unit for now?
  3. @dhp123166 I got the turn signals working. Thank you very much for all of your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now.
  4. I got the turn signals working. Thank you everyone for your help! It turns out that even though I had 12v at the green wire coming into the flasher maybe it wasn’t a “strong” 12v. I connected a new 12v lead to the flasher (as a test) and the turn signals work now.
  5. @Patcon they are incandescent - tried two different aftermarket ones (a single filament model and a dual filament). I don’t think the dual filament one is a 1157 bulb like original/OEM though.
  6. Thank you @cgsheen1 No I have not tried jumping the green and white together. I’ll give that a shot. I was thinking I could also try running a 12v “jumper” straight from the battery to the flasher. Wouldn’t this essentially bypass the hazard switch and tell me if there’s an issue with the turn signal switch? Since connecting 12v directly to the harness side of the 5 pin connector causes all appropriate lights to light up (solid) that should tell me that the harness connector and wiring to the lights is good. On the ZCarDepot web site they sell a flasher uni
  7. Thanks again for all of your assistance and suggestions! I've done so many things, that it's hard to remember what I've tested so far. If I recall correctly, I believe I connected the test light directly to the green wire coming into the flasher/relay and it is bright. Is that what you're asking when you say "have you tried the test light at the connector for the flasher"? If I recall correctly too, the test light is bright (and it blinked) when connecting it directly to the 5-pin connector on the switch itself (and moving the lever up/down). Shouldn't that mean that everyt
  8. Thank you @SteveJ! I have definitely studied that diagram for many hours it seems (haha) and have been racking my brain on this issue. I'll have to test it again, but I'm 99% turn that connecting a test light to the white wire (and ground) caused the light to just light up very faintly. Is this what is supposed to happen? If not, do you know what may cause the light not to light up brighter and/or flash on the white wire? In the other thread you had said this when I mentioned that it lights up very dimly on the white wire: When I get a minute to do some more tes
  9. Hi! I thought I would start a new thread since the old one is now buried with a lot of different info. I have a 1971 240z and the turn signals are not working. Here is what has been done/tested so far: Turn signal switch refurbished/rebuilt Hazard lights work perfectly Confirmed 12v at the green wire coming into the relay/flasher Confirmed that the relay/flasher is working (swapped it with the hazard one to confirm) Relay/Flasher is brand new EF32/EL12 model (also tried LL552 with same result) When holding a test light to each pin on the 6-pin/5-wir
  10. @dhp123166 Please let me know if this is what you’re looking for. I also attached a video showing you how the ohms readings are reversed from your diagram when the lever is in the up position. IMG_5761.MOV
  11. Just to make sure we're on the same page, here is a table showing my values compared to the values that show in your diagram. My values appear to be opposite (reverse of) what your diagram is showing:
  12. @dhp123166 - I did some more testing this afternoon. When the lever in up (right signal) and put my multi-meter on the continuity setting, I am showing continuity between green-->white/black and green-->green/red. If I switch my multi-meter from the continuity setting to the Ohms setting, I get .00 on these connections, however if I put one probe on the green and one on the green/black or white/red (while the lever is up), then the Ohms reading is .20. The situation reverses if I have the lever down... meaning if I hold my probes on the green and green/red or white/black, I g
  13. This is a drawing of the "female" side of the turn signal connector. My understanding is that the original turn signals consisted of 2 filaments and 3-wire (one wire for turn signal, one for the parking light, and one for ground). It seems as though the wiring to the turn signals is working properly since the hazards lights work... what am I missing? @dhp123166 - is it correct to assume that the new connector that you put on the turn signal switch should plug into the original stock connector or should I definitely replace the stock one with the new "female" connector that y
  14. Thank you for the diagram @dhp123166 I only had a few minutes to do some testing today. I pulled the 5 pin connector and connected the test light directly to the pins on the connector. Here is a picture showing what I got: That being said the dash light did not blink/light when I connected the test light to these pins... not sure if it was supposed to or not. I connected the turn signals back into the connectors in the front of the car, plugged the switch connector back into the harness, but unfortunately I'm still not getting turn signals. Hazards are still w
  15. I have not had a chance to do any further testing yet. Hopefully today or tomorrow and I will write back soon. Thank you for not locking this thread. I would appreciate being able to write my findings here to get additional help/suggestions.
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