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I will be sending my shell to the body shop soon, so I have been designing a support frame with casters that I can attach to the bottom of the chassis. I will use this to get the shell onto a deck truck for transport, and to use during the reassembly process. It is similar to what @inline6did, main difference with mine is that it is a fully bolted Unistrut construction, as I have no access to a welder at home. Here is an image of the final concept. This morning I finished doing some pre-assembly, test fits and checks for any missing any hardware. So far it has gone together without issue, kind of like the Meccano set I had as a kid. Here are a few pics, I will be completing this project over the weekend, and will post pics with it fully installed.

I'm learning new stuff. "Faraday cage", "Spinal Tarp" and "land line". I'll google this and be smarter.

Same thing happened to Spinal Tarp. Suuuuuuuuure they were.

I got the exact same wheels from MSA. Same size and color. They look great in my opinion on these cars. Have you decided one tire size yet?

I don’t think he was suggesting blocking you, but rather pointing out that blocking another member is an option for any member who finds another member bothersome. At this point it might be a good idea to simply move on to other discussions, and let this thread take a rest.

Ok, so ‘she who must be obeyed’ has spent $30k already. I was not aware I needed all new furniture. So I have been busy. But today, I got some garage time. the mount is a Pro Tunerz piece. Maybe not the most elegant solution, but it works. With nearly $600 worth of coils, I’d have hoped the AEM labels would show. They won’t. They face the passenger side of the cam cover. But hey! They hold the coils!

Just be sure to wear your tin foil hat when you Google the terms and you'll be fine. 😎

I am happy for you - job well done. It is nice to see hard work, and wisdom with regard to hiring a photographer, editing the video, etc. pay off for you.

There's some good info on here about header flange thickness, straightness and bolting down properly. I have 2 MSA ceramic 6to1 on mine and love them. If I were you and you live in a state without smog testing I'd come up with a plan and do away with the egr stuff since you're basically killing it off anyway. I have a doctor's appointment in the morning and will post up some searches I remember being helpful when I did my '77 while I sit out in my car waiting. Damn covid! I fart in it's general direction but I'll do whatever to protect my family.

He knows them personally. Look at the comment. I’m really not butt hurt. It’s just when I’m enthusiastic about something I’m blinded by it and I go at it 100%. Then when I’m characterized as gloating or whatever was said I no longer care as much about belonging to that group. I’m a loaner. I have two friends and I can hardly manage that. I have two series 1‘s and I’ve shared that here. I could say you guys know more about what I love than my 91 year old mother or my sister. They don’t understand. I come here because I can relate to the enthusiasm. I cleaned my engine compartment today. The battery tray, the valve cover and put the valve cover back on. I remove the battery cables and cleaned them up. I have a sonic cleaner that I put all the bolts in that were removed. It’s a great cleaning device for small parts. I used a gun grease to coat my battery connections. It’s made by cleanse oil. It’s a nice thin coat. Some guy stoped me at the store and I lost track of time and got home late. Yesterday a guy was giving me hand signals going down the road. I stopped and we talked mostly about the squadron we both served in on the USMC. Being a marine I can and have taken a lot of sh!t. I just prefer not to. My wife is trying to come up with a name for the car. I won’t like it and then it will grow on me. I could careless about naming a car. So, I’ll continue to share my journey. When I’m done here somebody will probably get a deal of. Lifetime. I could careless about making money selling cars. I built a couple Jeep’s and almost game them away. I only ended up here because somebody sold me a series 1 for $3500. I decided this is my direction for awhile. This is why I sold my Jeep’s. My passion has been redirected to z’s. Sorry about the long explanation

It's tied to the VIN, which you supplied. It's a small community. There are no winners in these internet forum beefs. The harder a person tries to win the farther away they get from the goal. Best let it fade and start talking about the car.

Thanks DC871F & Patcon. I was very happy with the end result today. Do I think it had more room to grow? You bet, but I don't build these cars to pay for the roof over my head. It's going to a great home and I'll be able to build up the next one

The forum can be a funny thing. It is easy to misunderstood or to take offense where none is intended. Sometimes it's good to read things a couple of times to try to determine what a poster really intends.

I also thought the "no" response was a little on the negative side and really doesn't have anything to do with you being proud of your find. My guess is that Patcon also thought you had a nice find and was just curious on the range of the price for such a nice find (that us late comers have no idea on without pictures). Charles (patcon) is one of the more helpful/supportive people on these boards and other than you I doubt there's anybody else on these boards that saw his question as overly prying. I know when I was growing up and I got a just "no" (or "maybe" which always meant "no") from my parents it was viewed as a negative response. This whole thing reminds me of the kid that didn't get what he wanted so he took his ball away.

Kudos for illustrating that -- for certain applications, anyway -- there are choices other than welding. Reminds me of a friend (also located in BC) who successfully built a rotisserie frame for his 240Z project from wood. Looking forward to your photos.

Got in a new alternator. Got it from Oreillys. It an upgraded 280zx model so it has internal regulator, but that is fine. a few other members here said this would work fine on older models like mine. i have a new t connector somewhere, i've also seen this called a "pigtail" somewhere else. Anyway, there is another cable connection that goes on the back of the alternator for something. Looks to be a single wire connection. Would anyone know what that connector is called or who sells one, what its for? cant seem to find one anywhere. I dont remember this being hooked up on old OEM alternator when i first got my car. Maybe its not needed? found an article on another site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html i am working through this, got a lot of detailed information there. someone knows there stuff for sure. btw, fyi, ZCD responded with a return label to refund damaged alternator i bought there.

Interesting score on the silver '71 restored car today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-209/ In the last three years, six cars have sold at or over $100,000. Two more did not sell with bids at or over $100,000. In the previous four years, no cars sold for the $100,000 mark. Three high priced cars had provenance, 2 Vintage Zs and the Franklin Mint car, one supposed low-mileage-all-original car went for an astronomical price while another low mileage example did not sell even though it was in the same range average as all the rest. I'm glad and surprised to see this restored example do so well. It was very nicely done.

Off topic - I had to build a Faraday cage from copper mesh to get a CD player to work way back when. You could hear the local radio station on the land line in our apartment, the complex was right next to an antenna. (I am not sure how that worked either since it should have needed a tuner. But the voices were there...). I bought a CD player, took it home, loaded it up (one of those 6 at a time jobbies), and it wouldn't play. I took it back to the store and they tried it and it played. Took it home, still didn't work. The radio over the phone line had always bothered me so it was in mind. I had access to copper mesh so built a tube of mesh around the CD player and it worked. One of those weird things where book learning actually had real world value. Never actually figured out which component was affected.

Konig Rewinds - They are the popular budget choice. That is why my friend doubles on the gasket to help with sealing. It usually works, and a high quality flange on the header certainly helps. There are some threads on here discussing that. It's a good opportunity to learn how to use the search functions unless @siteunseenpops in with his indexed search on headers. 😉

Then obviously you don't know correctly. The seat belt warning light and choke warning light are on the fuse box cover for the 72 and 73. Both lights are also shown in the snippet of the wiring diagram I included. As for the bulbs, I double checked the choke warning and seat belt warning lights. They are indeed BA7 bulbs.

I'm watching a spinning wheel on another thread while I write this. It seems to be thread specific sometimes.

Yep, super slow on both my laptop and my phone. Mine times out often as well.