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Merry Christmas! If you buy a devilbiss and it doesn't have this security label, it's probably a fake. Such a pretty color! SWMBO even liked it. 😉 Looking forward to loading it up. It also has an included digital gauge, which I wasn't expecting. Another nice thing about devilbiss guns, is many of them co.e with multiple tips. Which makes the really versatile. Sata tips are like $150-$200 a pop!

quick update, realized i haven’t updated this in a while. july 25th: i figured out my jetting issue was timing, my distributor slipped and it had 12* total, i’m surprised it even ran. also trans gave up transmission: i blew up my 4l60(700r4) which wasn’t shocking just disappointing, i was hoping it would last longer. fully disassembled and everything flushed ect, it burned the forward clutch and the band, and the lower planetary gear set was junk. upgrades coming: .500 boost valve, hardened sunshell, wide band, new frictions, unbreakable pump rings, 13vane pump, 2-3 shift kit and full manual valve body, and i’m gonna go for a 3500stall torque converter, just give it a little more jump off the line i also 3d printed a carb spacer, after i get it running consistently i plan on porting the intake, and building a custom header for the driver side, i can 3d print 1” sections that snap together and have angles ect to model it before i cut and weld stuff, but that’s after i’ve driven the car for a bit cuz i needa drive this damn car school has crushed me these past couple of months so i ain’t been able to work on the car like i’ve wanted, but when i get it back together i’m gonna be the fastest car at the school Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the relining process is about 250$ per drum . Probably end up better than OEM . Not many that do our drums . Cast iron drums are much heavier , so this a decent option . I have extra drums laying around that are in spec .

No problem, it’s been a long process. Drove the car around the neighborhood today, the light flywheel takes a little getting used to but only in first gear, otherwise its fine. I’ve been driving manual trans my whole driving life, it’s like second nature, so I don’t find it difficult at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To my knowledge, all the aluminum drums have a steel liner.

I would probably patch those. No need for a full floor. I would advise you to just get your exhaust welder to weld it up. You could possibly bend up the patches for him to save some time Lower the line under floor down and throw a wet rag over it.

I am still pretty excited about the Z, and if I had 10k more I would probably just go buy a 240z and keep both of these. Right now I am kind of 50/50 on the car and am going to keep restoring it until someone buys it or I fix it all the way. But with the emissions details I just learned, it won't be the "dream" car I thought of and so would rather sink my time into one that achieves that vision if I have the choice. Don't get me wrong, I will never not love the s30's! 🙂

You could try to litigate but most are in China and pretty well shielded by the government. Also the courts are slow. By the time you get a judgement they have already moved shop and setup under a new name. Also, even if you got a judgement, how would you enforce it? The Chinese government isn't going to help. A huge part of their GDP and clear profits are from copies of brand name products.

Yes, I would think they would lathe them out completely or just partial and then install an interference fit liner. I don't know if they tack them or not

I have always found the 10mm snap off just fine with a standard socket, no impact gun needed. 😅 How about that double deep though???? 😎

Yes, 180 differential with the 5 speed. No problems ripping around town or 2 hour drive on the interstate. Aluminum flywheel is my best modification so far. I'm a rev freak I guess, grew up riding dirt bikes with power bands. It's in my blood.

Keep in touch - my next batch due in just before Easter in April.

@Sean Dezart Thanks for the feedback! Yeah, from what I heard the resonator is a must. Had the opportunity to see one of your mufflers in action a couple of months ago. Love your stainless setup so that is where I am headed. Might try to put the headers up for sale this winter and see if I get any takers.

Well, that's a bummer. Looks like a nice car with no major problems. Add more pictures, a lot of them, with closeups (the single image you posted is from a distance), and you'll probably sell it pretty quick. Nothing wrong with hanging around if you sell your Z (I think).

Funny I actually just saw his website. Not sure why I couldn't find it months ago. From what I see his work seems to be very good. He is quite far from me about a 100 mile drive. I will have to give him a call tomorrow. I do not have that. Thanks for the link, I will give that a good read as I should probably learn to at least tune these things myself in the future.

This guy seems to do a lot of work in the LA area. https://www.instagram.com/kyushahousetaka/ I've never used his services before, I've only seen his work on social media. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? It's a pretty useful tool. AEM makes a nice one. If you want to read about the webers you have. http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

I have a memory of a "stop" screw in the M/C's that stops the travel of the piston in the bore. I wonder if your "new" Tokico has been reassembled incorrectly. The position of the piston at the opening of the bore should be the same for both MC's. They both have the same ID. All signs point to incorrect Tokico, or Tokico assembly. I'm going to guess that somebody put the piston on the wrong side of the stop screw. Post pictures of those same two MC's but from the open end.

OK, found the right one to unscrew. It was next to the one I unscrewed first.

I have a 5 speed "wide B" swapped in my 240. Original in my '77. Easy to work with, shifter stays the same but I did change the speedo cog from the 4 speed to a 5 on the 240 upgrade. Not sure the color but with 15" wheels in pretty dead on with the MPH on my GPS as the speedometer gauge reads. About 2,000 to 2,500 RPM at 75 MPH through 80 MPH highway. That's my best info as far as constant speed, you see I have an aluminum flywheel so red light to red light and traffic driving is all over the place on my tachometer.

Found it!

One more thing, the temperature sender should connect to a yellow wire in an unmolested wiring harness.

That is amazing! I really wanted to lighten the flywheel, but I am a new manual driver and was worried about lightening affecting drive ability. But if it’s similar to OEM, that is perfect! Edit: apologies, was on mobile and did not realize this post is 15 pages long. Sorry for replying to an old post.

One can't have too many tools!

Thank you all for your feedback. I am going to move forward without the shims, the thinnest I could find are .015 but only .012 has been taken off. This coincides with the two resources that ask for shims only when .02 or more has been removed. I'll definitely pay attention to the chain tensioner once I put it back together too, thank you!

http://xenonzcar.com/s30/heads.html

I think that Captain Obvious has written some good stuff about the EGR system. Can't remember the details, but I think that if you just seal the hole at the top of the intake manifold with a plate and a good gasket you will not have any vacuum leaks. Sounds like you did that with tape already. You don't need to seal the bottom because it is just a passage to the hole at the top. I used a 16mm bolt inside the remaining piece of tube on the exhaust manifold, with some ceramic muffler sealant paste to seal the hole in the exhaust manifold. Cut a groove in the bolt threads and it becomes a self-tapping screw thread. Or, if there is a piece of pipe left in the exhaust manifold you could find a compression fitting and use that. Or, simply, you could crimp it and fold it over with some vise-grips and it would probably seak just fine. Ugly but effective. Do you have your heater core intact or is it "bypassed"? If you're not using the heater core you should block the ports, not bypass them. Bypassing can cause overheating.

Thanks for that info. I'm Installing a Vintage Air Mini into my '72 and just completed the cabin connections today using E-Z-Clip fittings and a JEGS bulkhead for the A/C lines. As member qz16 noted when he did the same install a few years ago, making those interior connections is a royal PITA. But now they're done. I'm using the generic Vintage Air brackets for mounting the Sanden compressor to the block so I have some cutting and welding to do. Already cut and drilled a piece of 1/4" steel plate that will get bolted to the block and am now trying to determine how much to cut off the back of the brackets so that the compressor has its fittings in the optimum, almost-upright configuration and yet have enough travel left in the slotted portion of the brackets to easily change belts if and when needed. My problem is that the engine is not in the car so I need to do some mock-ups to make sure the fit is correct. I plan to document the dimensions and cuts so future Sanden installers will have an easier time of it.

I have a three bedroom house that I rent out and I live in the garage apartment in the back.

It took me 30 years, but I was fortunate enough to purchase a home with triple front garages and a rear 24x24 shop. Having a separate shop is key to a long term restoration, as nothing in that shop escapes the dust and mess accompanying the restoration process. I would never want to work on a car like this in a shared parking space! I know, it is the case for many without options, but I waited an additional year after buying my project car to find a house that would accommodate a happy wife as well as a happy car nut.... Also, hang thick poly from the ceiling to create a separate work space to contain some of the mess. I used 6 mil vapour barrier. Good luck!

Congrats on the new digs. My long-time dream is a 3-car garage with a small cottage attached. Then my wife slaps me awake and says "You're having that dream again. It ain't gonna happen, deal with it!"

View Advert 1978 Datsun 280z I bought this car a couple months ago, and 1 simple device broke leading to me wanting to look elsewhere. 66,000 original miles 4 speed factory AC The car was my daily until it began to overheat. Turns out the EGR broke, leaking exhaust right into the bay and causing the engine to heat fast. In fixing the EGR, the bold connecting to the exhaust manifold broke. To fix the EGR and Exhaust Manifold, you must take off the Intake Manifold. Knowing that, I decided I wanted to convert it to carbureted instead of fuel injection. I started working on that removing the intake manifold, radiator and alternator. I just learned that my vision for the car wont fly in Colorado with the new emissions regulations having a hard start in 1975. This kind of breaks my dream for this car, and considering i think it would be best with someone else. If you have a solution please let me know. If you have an offer, I welcome all. At the very least, I love to talk about these cars Advertiser SupremeCling Date 11/30/2021 Price $10,000 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)