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I haven’t but I also don’t feel like being a cripple any time soon. As kids we used to “hillside” on our skateboards. I grew up in the Bay Area near San Francisco and we had serious winding hills where I lived. We would cannonball run down these hill that we’re over a mile long and we would weave down the hill sideways to slow down. We’d hit like 40 mph (had to tighten the trucks up big time to be stable) To do it we’d lay backwards and put one hand on the road. We had homemade gardening gloves what were massively wrapped in duck tape and had layers of plastic; the stuff used to protect the bottom of your skateboard. So you’d lay the glove down and push your trailing leg forward causing the board to skid sideways and slow down. You’d S turn like this all the way down the hill. It was epic fun but we had some close calls with oncoming traffic. Don’t tell me how I survived my childhood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, in early July and under this summers' typical weather so far, our national French club assisted with Peter Autos' Historic-Racing Le Mans Bugatti and were allowed several track sessions each day.....who could resist ? Please bear in mind that I haven't driven my Z on a circuit since 2009...and that the engine is still limited to 4500rpm and so lacking a LOT of horsepower and this wet session was undertaken on Toyo R888 semi-slicks ! Enjoy and have a good laugh on me at the end. Apparently there are more videos to come earlier in the weekend.....watch this space ! ps the real action starts at 4mins at the beginning of the pit straight - the first out lap was (always in every session) driven behind the safety car : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l58MRgoGIjg Many thanks #DavidDonné for the filming and editing.

I bought an off-the-shelf flywheel from Rock Auto. Took it to my local machine shop with the diagram in Post #3 of this thread. It has a real nice feel and combined with a 3.90:1 diff, really good off the line butt dyno.

Yeah... to answer your question.. no i did'nt let it get to me. (when i was restoring my 280zx slick roof..) even when someone broke the 3th !!!! windscreen i kept relative calm.. The first one had a pit in it it broke later on when in storage.. so my own fault. the next was 400 euro and the girlfriend of my 1st painter broke it while cleaning the house.. but till this day she does not confess.. never seen the screen.. yeah whatever! the third was a co-worker of my 2nd painter.. then i had to order a 4th screen pff.. so don't let it get to you.. Restoring a car is ALWAYS more work than you think.. Patience is my biggest trump.. what's yours? 😉

The topic is.... Can i use broken drivers side door handle on passenger side?? BTW... have we all read this correctly? you can't use a broken one! On any side!! (Yeah i know i'm what we call overhere a : "muggezifter" ... No translation possible.. let say someone who is very critic on his (or sometimes other peoples) work.. 🙊

Buy another one

I have a 280z with an L28 and triple webers, I recently went to the track and my car caught on fire, it looked like the fire was coming from my headers or from the middle weber and the fire started about 3 minutes after I spun out and was idling for about 2 minutes in the pits. For now I want to assume the fire started due to oil dripping onto my headers after spinning out and the fire probably seeped through the middle weber and ignited there too. (The car is okay I drove it home two hours away with no problem just 2 hours after, nothing looks damaged and the car drove like nothing happened) I have a K&N breather for both the valve cover and the crank case portion on the block (PCV). I would like to add that during the fire the K&N breather on the block blew off (exploded off). Gonna assume it got clogged and pressure wasn't able to be released or something of that nature. I want to ditch these breathers and run an Oil Catch Can system asap before my next track day as it seems for normal street driving I don't have to worry much. I would like to know the best way to run it. I've seen 4 setups: 1: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet with a filter on top) and the valve cover and crank case both have hoses going to the two ports separately. 2: Running one catch can with two ports (one port is an inlet and other is an outlet) and both the valve cover and crank case hoses connect to a T or Y fitting and then run to the inlet on the catch can with a filter on the outlet portion of the catch can. 3: Running one catch can with one port and a filter on top and both the crank case and valve cover have hoses that connect to a T or Y fitting and run into the one port in the catch can 4: Running two separate catch cans with filters on top, one catch can for the valve cover and the other catch can for the crank case I would also like to add that I do have a small amount of blow by and does fume up the cabin slightly so whichever system would be best to help reduce this would be appreciated or whichever system is the best overall to run.

I don't think it really matters but I would assume there would be more oil mist coming from the crankcase, you won't believe the stuff that accumulates in the can, in racing circles it's known as a snot can for a good reason.

Sometimes the wire colors on switches will differ from the wire color on the harness. For the wires you have left, here is what I suggest you make a chart like this so we can help you figure out where things go. List Wire color, including the color of the stripe Connector type: spade/bullet Connector gender: male/female Wire Origin: Dash harness/turn signal switch/headlight switch

Looking forward to seing it on BaT within the next 12 months...

You CAN use a broken handle on the other side but I did not realize it will not fully hold the handle in the door. When pulled it will half come out and fells like after a few pulls and open and close of the door a few times it will break right off. Better to just get a new one.

Ha, that makes sense and honestly it never crossed my mind! (Not here fishing for compliments. Just dense sometimes.) I always like talking to other people about their cars, but who did the work seems to rarely come up.

That would be cool but I was thinking several tire calculator links could be posted in the same article all in one place Options, ya know...

If were going to add a tire size calculator then this is the page, https://www.blocklayer.com/tire-size-calculator.aspx Also does transmission gearing and a bunch of other calculators that might be useful.

Or maybe a shorter one? Can't remember the torque spec but it can't be much. The 280s don't have a problem with the line up pin but the 240s do. They went to a universal fit off the 280 dimensions but they won't sit in the 240 holes. I had to file my 240 pins down to get them in. On my 280 they fit.

Saturday the Colorado Z Car Club (Denver area) had an autocross at a Sheriff's training center where there is a nice asphalt area...they even provided the cones for us! I hadn't driven an autocross in about 22 years. My 280ZX has fairly new all-season tires, as they were about the only thing I could find in the original size, but what the heck. I aired them up to 39 PSI all around and had at it. There weren't many cars there - about a dozen - so we all got in plenty of runs. I had about 8 runs. It was a tight course, and I ran the whole thing in first gear, but that wasn't all bad because it kept the turbo spooled up so I had good acceleration power. Also good, my times dropped steadily. I started off at 58:xx, then ran 57:xx. then 56:xx, then 54:xx, and my last couple of runs were 52:xx. I managed to take off six seconds and didn't catch a single cone. The fastest time was set by a gent in a track-prepared 350Z at about 44 seconds. It also gave me a chance to make sure the new helmet I bought for the autocross at the national Z Car Convention in Colorado Springs fit well. I'm happy with it. That was a great way to spend a Saturday AM, and the sun cooperated by hiding behind cloud cover until about noon.

#2 Only if the trans mount rubber is split, torn, or perished would I replace it. If it looks ok, just re-use it.

At least it starts with a Z! :p

Look at the Mahle website. Most P-series bearings have been superceded by their A-series. https://web.tecalliance.net/mahle-catalog/qa/parts/autocare/assigned?targetId=6642&parentAssemblyGroupId=10&assemblyGroupId=136&page=0#@brc/autocareassem:1983%20Nissan%20280ZX;targetId:6642/autocarelnkparts:Cylinder%20Block%20Components;targetId:6642;parentAssemblyGroupId:10;assemblyGroupId:136;page:0 Of course, some are still available, but in my search they were only standard sizes and larger oversizes - nothing at the .25mm size.

Plywood and steel wheels purloined from street skates in the early sixties. Sixty years later a few of the old memories (scars) remain and remind me of the good old days of adrenaline fueled afternoons and the painful recoveries.

That’s a legit Old School one...amazing you kept it. I bought a new one Gator 2 years ago to ride with my kids. Boards are different these days. My son’s is on the left. My squadron gave me the one on the right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear you're hurt Charles. Looking forward to seeing you next year.

Always buy a pretty lady a drink…

While I won't be there, I recently got to spend time with a car that will be in the hotel lobby. Break out your leisure suit, lace up your boogie shoes, and step into the time machine to relive 1980.

Can't make it. I'm in the same boat as SteveJ - Colorado is real far away. What a shame, I don't like to think about it. It'd be nice to meet everybody in person, and also lose my mind over all the z's. Gosh! Why'd you have to bring it up?! Just when I'd started to move on, this thread got brought back! Oh well, maybe next year... Somebody let it loose going up Pikes Peak for me (but don't get too crazy)!

I've been hurt for over a year. Was some better but recently regressed by about 6 months

I'm gonna miss seeing all of y'all... again! I couldn't make the trip even if I wanted too... Sitting on heating pad right now 😞