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Usually. Actually it stands for Previous Owner. The ignition module is down by the fuse box in the cabin. Passenger side (right side). You might have to dig in to that ignition switch. Who knows what you'll find, considering what's in the engine bay.

These cheapo one man bleeders work remarkably well for me. My $.03

Center exhaust is very difficult to pull off... and Honda did not do that one right.. lol I will never buy a fully electric car, it needs to have an engine backup (hybrid) otherwise I'd be sitting somewhere begging for a ride. Ever run your phone out of battery because you forgot to charge it? Yeah... Of course you have the same issue with running out of gas, but, at least you can pull over somewhere and fill up in less than 10 minutes. An electric car you'd be sitting there for an hour or more...

I saw a mock up of a front grill mod that breaks up the big black square grill that I think improves the look of the front.

Thanks, I think I found it. I will have to dismantle a lot of stuff even to see if the wires are still there. What I need is a 280z next to mine so I could see what is missing or what was butchered. I have 0 problems putting back to stock. [Especially in times like now.] thanks for the pic.

I was going to suggest a ZX e12-80 like I put on my '77 and '72 from Cardone but like you say Bob, NLA.

50/50 antifreeze and water. Use one of those water injection systems the drag racers use. It really is tempting... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-557-101?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiwAPXjadu2x8WWIYmNEJcfSjgO7aXMBz-vIwfortTbyQiXSMhVZpvUwMmeDsBoCjpIQAvD_BwE

No longer in stock nor will they be stocking it. Was told it is NLA

Start as far away from master cylinder and work to shortest on bleeding. I use the method described in my 1963 service manual: put a rubber hose on the bleed screw into a bottle with a little brake fluid. Open bleed screw, pump the brakes a few times till the fluid has no bubbles in it. Leave pedal all the way to the floor, tighten bleed screw. Repeat 3 more cylinders. Keep master full, if you run it out, start all over.

At least they didn't do what Honda and Toyota is doing on their sports editions. Centered exhaust! I got a good laugh from what @AK260 said about the electric Z roe. There'd be no exhaust pipes.

I liked it before as it has the rear hatch and the triangle quarter windows. But, the big square grill was my one dissent. This rendering fixes that. Nice! I'd like to see the headlights tweeked to look more sugar scoopish as well.

Porsche did a good job making their 911 more modern and updated rear end.

The scan for the 75 is missing sections. Download the 76 as well.

I will be changing the oil in my test stand engine soon, its seen nothing but short duration test runs so its time anyway, not to mention the dumping of a bunch of test cleaners. Good point about possible harm to oils.

Just call it the 'Z' and be done with it. I like the front bumper look.

It’s an interesting point. The trouble with that is as we head towards downsizing and hybrids the numbers will head backwards and I guess the marketing depts want it to sound progressive. So going with displacement we may get the Z150E at some point! Or even the fully electric Zero! [emoji2957]

In a couple of more hours tonight, I was able to get the driver door, rocker panel, and most of the driver side quarter panel sanded with 240 grit. The door is super straight. I am very happy with it. The quarter panel has a dip at the front that I can probably address when the next round of primer application. The quarter panel is pretty good, but the belt line in the area directly above the wheel well is tricky and I see a couple of spots that are not quite right. Videos:

I watched the 'vidya.' LOL! Neither of them really cleaned as well as I thought they might given the hype. Seafoam actually raised the compression by 9+% hot and 5% cold. Marvel Mystery oil lowered it hot and stayed the same cold. So, I guess Seafoam wins unless its just a transient effect...

Are you asking me to watch this vidya? You know I've got the patience of a rattlesnake right? Which one wins? I'm gonna guess Seafoam... Thank you Greg, Cliff.

The threads on the valve itself are 1/8 NPT. You would either need to get an adapter that converts that to the metric fittings on the Z lines or remake the lines with the appropriate fittings. They actually sell a version with SAE adapters included. You can find it here: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Motors-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-With-Fittings,387281.html As far as mounting it, I attached a 1/8 inch aluminum "plate" to the side of the valve and drilled and tapped a hole in that plate. I then used a small right angle bracket that attaches to the valve in the new tapped hole and the other side of the right angle bracket goes into the original tapped hole on the firewall that used to hold the OEM valve. You can see the "plate" that I added in the last picture that I posted above. Hope that helps. Mike.

Bit of an update. I figure the PO set up the carbs based on the picture below. I added in a wideband and nailed down that the carbs were pig rich everywhere with a really lean acceleration. I've leaned out idle jets, main jets, and idle mixture. The next step is to bump up acceleration, followed by narrowing the emulsion tube. I also learned my engine is a recently rebuilt stock bottom end (l28) with a stock e88 (l24) head. Sent from my SM-G981W using Tapatalk

So little update but I’m excited about this one! My car didn’t have an oem steering wheel, I know.... who the hell doesn’t want the oem steering wheel?! It’s gorgeus! Was looking into steering wheels and was interested in the jdm comp steering wheels msa sell, after talking to a few people who didn’t like them, it didn’t seem worth the amount of money + shipping costs. So after looking at the prices of oem wheels in the US and picking my jaw up off the ground....I managed to source a pre loved oem steering wheel from my local z guy! For a very reasonable price too! Here it is! Little rough, but with a bit of TLC should come out nice! Ryan

I guess my question on all of this is what is M speeds agreement with the manufacturer? is there a clear cut line that forbids the manufacturer from selling these through another venue. Is approval required for the factory to sell these are not. This has been one of the problems with mainland manufacturing for some time. They require foreigners to build plants with domestic contractors and domestic engineers. Then they go down the road and build a duplicate plant to generate copy cat products. This was a huge problem with top level golf clubs for a while, as an example

This product seems similar to seafoam, I used it on this old 240sx I had, it worked very well, I recall having a load of it flow into the system then turning off the hot motor to let it sit in the deposits. The idle was much better on the car. if you do it right before sundown you can avoid the fire dept. HA!

In a fire bad enough to ignite Elektron Magnesium wheels (which the original Kobe Seiko wheels were made from) on an S30-series Z, the fumes from the burning interior plastics and vinyl would kill you first. M-Speed's replicas are made from Aluminium alloy.

Even in stock configuration with no mods the Z's gas tank placement makes a Pinto seem like a Volvo. But you're right about the brake kits, a lot of variables going on there.