Leaderboard

And the lord said “let there be a HALL EFFECT” and man thence invented the Hall Effect sensor and there was peace, happiness and simple little velocity independent, constant voltage square waves across all the lands.... I saw it and it was good. My apologies to the original author.....

I owe @S30Driver and @siteunseen an apology! Even though me and my friend didn't touch those two connections, one of them came loose and fell off somehow! When plugging it back in I notice the connection is a little lose so I crimped it a little to help hold it in better! Thank you so much to everyone for the help. After plugging the wire back in I was also able to adjust the idle after plugging the wire back on. Drove the car for 10 minutes with no signs of hesitation or bogging even with the tps connected! And I also no longer have to keep adjusting my idle by the looks of things. As a matter of fact the car feels so much faster than before! I really wanted to get this car running asap because she is going to see some autocross action for the first time in 3 weeks. Here's a video of it running after plugging in the connector. It was running lean before I did all the work then started running very rich after at least what my spark plugs indicated! I always put tape on my spark plug wires and number them before taking them off, just a habit I got into.

These backwards arse idiots in Alabama won't wear mask until 5pm this evening, Guuvner Ivey's order starts then. Like Walmart's order to take effect the 20th. The virus won't be contagious until those deadlines. Dead lines, literally at walmart.

Perhaps the bawdiness of this thread is the reason for this:

The inside is finished. Exterior stucco work starts today. We moved 27th in last Friday and 26th's engine, which has been at a friend's shop, moved in Saturday. I'm slowly moving parts from the rental shop. I had the floor epoxied which turned out better than I ever expected. The overhead doors are really nice.

I'm sure Saint Matsuo is chuckling over this thread ? Summer of 69

My seats held up!

I've been lurking in the community learning a lot of stuff over the couple of months, but this is my first post. I live west of Toronto, Ontario. I have an 04/71 240 that I bought back in 1994 (I'd had a couple of 240s and a 280ZX back in the '80s). The car came from Georgia, but I don't know much more history than that. I drove it summer and winter(!) for about five years, then garaged it when it started to get some visible body panel rust in the usual places. I managed to keep the car out of my mind until a few months ago when someone told me what was happening on BaT. I don't have any expectation that my car will ever be worth what some of those have gone for (and I can't imagine selling it), but just reading about Zs again got me re-addicted (Hi, I'm Dave and I have a problem). I started poking around at the car and was pleasantly surprised by what I found. I decided to carefully see if I could get it started after 20 years. Fortunately there are good threads in here to help avoid disasters. I'll spare you all the mundane details, but after several weeks of prep, I turned the key with the plugs in and connected and it came close to starting before flooding. So, here's my first question (I already have lots)! Where do Canadian Z owners source parts? I'm going to need lots over the next couple of years and I'm sure some of you guys can save me a lot of wasted time and money. At this point I need a valve cover gasket and carb rebuild kit. It's easy to find US suppliers of parts. Is that the best bet or are there Canadian (even Ontario) suppliers of some parts? I'm happy to take this conversation offline if it's not relevant to most members, but I figured I should introduce myself and say thanks to all the fine people in this forum who've been so generous with their knowledge, and their descriptions and pictures of their work. I'm no mechanic, but I think I can do a lot of the basic stuff to get this project going. I've loved Zs since 1984 when I sat in my first one. It feels a little bit like magic to me that I have one sitting in my garage!

O negative

Edwin Hall 1879! I HAD to google that.

Been lurking on this thread to the point where I feel emotionally invested haha. Please post videos! So excited. No fireworks.

Jeff, Wow... I was just thinking the exact same thing yesterday! I'm putting stuff aside trying to get ready for a plating run and I was messing with some of those stiffeners. I've got a couple different sets and they are all bent and rusty. I was thinking it would be really cool to have some made from a thicker material and maybe even stainless.

I've always thought that the stiffener plates were too soft. If they were stiffer or thicker, they might do a better job of keeping the pan from dimpling.

I wanted overhead doors with glass panels like the old filling stations used to have but they were 7 grand apiece so I opted for insulated doors which were only $300 more than non-insulated. These doors are double skinned and are rated for 200 mph wind loading. Stout things! Then the epoxy guys took three days to put down the floor in three coats. Sand / prep, primer coat, sand smooth, base coat, sand smooth, and top coat. Cottonwood beige. The walls and ceiling were primed and painted Willow Springs white. The lights are LED units 3000k delivering 5000 lumens. The windows are aluminum projecting but much to my dismay, they only project out 3" which doesn't do much for cross ventilation. I screwed up and located the ceiling fan outlets where they conflict with the overhead door hangers. In this photo, I have my oak drafting table placed up against the back wall. The holes in the wall near the floor are flood vents which go in after the stucco. I have to get everything off my shelving and work bench before I can move it all in and get organised. Look at that reflection off the floor!

Do it in a DATSUN? Done it in a DATSUN!

1. The fronts should be easier. 2. Spindle pins in the rear can be a gotcha, should look up some threads on that, and look into getting a removal tool to assist with it. if you use poly bushings on the tension control arm get a rubber bushing as a backing, sometimes they can be too stiff. control arm bushings are asymmetrical (there's a recent thread on this) inspect the control arms for cracking. Paint stuff while you're down there. 3. diff mounts would be nice, some use RT style mounts. I used the oem bushing, and the RT mount with a cone bushing to remove the OEM strap. 4. More vibrations from poly, although you cant find some of the OEM rubber bushings anymore..... I got the kit from Energy Suspension, you can find $20 dollar off coupons for AutoZone sometimes. 5. If your accountant lets you, i hear good things about the Koni Yellows. I use KYB struts, kinda wish i got the Koni yellows, i was a poor college student at the time. ha 6. I did not drop my subframe, i did one side at a time. I used a piece of wood to hold up the motor if i had it off the mounts. 7. My bushings looked OK, i did not remove them. I cant remember ? I really like the RT mount https://technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html I cut off 0.5" off the tip of the poly mount, i think @Diseazd recommended it but i could be wrong.

Is he the guy that spoke at the awards dinner in Memphis? I think Eiji translated for him. I remember some good laughs from the crowd as he spoke and a lot of clapping when he left the podium.

Brake pad shims

My Matsuo-san story dates back to the 2015 ZCON in Memphis, my first such convention. It was the wash day morning and Matsuo was strolling around the parking lot observing all the cars getting cleaned. He stopped by my car as I was desperately trying to get it dried before water spots could take a set. He began sharing the story of the origins of the hatch strut. He said they took the concept from the canopy strut of the elegant French Mirage aircarft but it was a relatively expensive piece to build. As a designer they had to fight the accountants to move forward with the part. When they suggested the car would benefit from two struts, the bean counters made it clear they would make do with one! He also spoke briefly about the inclusion of carpets for the US market, stating that although they might be able get away with rubber mats in Japan that would not be the case for the US-bound cars and even then they had to settle for less costly looped-style carpet over a higher cost cut pile product. He chuckled about the ongoing battles with the bean counters throughout the entire design and build process. He was indeed a wonderful and entertaining personality and we are all so very fortunate to have had him in our Z car history.

How incredibly sad ?. He will be greatly missed. Always enjoyed my conversations and time with him. Just one story: It always amused me that at the ZCON judged shows (and other car shows) he would walk around and touch parts, open doors, turn lights off and on, etc. Nobody else could get away with that but him. In fact most consider it an honor that he handled the cars.

By the way @zclocks, I showed Matsuo-san your website when I was helping him with preparation for his tech talk in 2018, and the subject came up about the rally clocks IIRC. He was pleasantly surprised with your work, and he asked me to make a print-out of your website for him.

Yea, sorry to be the bearer. From what I saw on Facebook, he just celebrated his birthday. I recall sitting in a bar with him at a ZCON in Long Beach. I enjoyed a certain sort of connection with him, designer to designer, when he took out a pen and started sketching. I still have some some of his sketches.

Also, the new NAFTA 2.0 just kicked in so no duty is paid on orders under $150 CND.

This thread will be historical, being mostly a repost of content that was originally posted on a personal website that no longer exists. So don't expect anything new. I just thought it might be mildly entertaining for some to review. I tried doing this as a blog, but don't like how that works. Please bear in mind that since it's audience originally was not necessarily people already familiar with 240Zs, some of the descriptions and such will be worded as though the reader is not already as informed as most of those on Classic Z Cars is, and not as detailed as it might have been if I had posted it here while it was happening. I also probably won't respond much to questions or comments along the way. Maybe some, now and then, but my goal is simply to save this info somewhere useful. And I can't think of a better place to save Z info than here.

18 Jan 2012 - Epilog My former 240Z was picked up by the transport company on 31 October 2011. It was crated and staged in Long Beach, California until 30 November 2011, when it sailed for Norway. It was unloaded in Oslo on 9 January 2012, and picked up by its new owner on 11 January 2012. Congratulations, Terje! You've got a nice car, and I'm confident that it will lead a pampered life from here on.

31 Oct 2011 - And Then There Were None...

Perfect. This one is 24 in the middle. That should settle it. Thanks!

I took some measurements of my spare transmission to give you something to go on. I can't see why the 92mm rule would not apply for the 71A, you kind of proved it with the old clutch although we don't know if it was the same as, or the original clutch. The position of the fork in relation to the front of the bell housing is the same on the 71A/B/C. I also did some checking on my transmission. When I position the fork at 135mm, there is very little room behind +/- 15mm. Not enough to fully depress a correctly adjusted clutch pedal. Everything being equal, your old clutch will be further forward due to the thinner disc. The diaphragm in the pressure plate has a fulcrum of about 5 to 1. So 0.5mm woulf move the diaphragm fingers about 2.5mm and the clutch fork about 4.5mm give or take a couple tenths of a mm. Mind you, that is going out from a situation with a pddal box having little wear and correctly adjusted. A clutch will easily disengage with 15mm clutch fork movement. It will be low in the pedal movement. Another thing to note. When I push the fork all the way back the collar almost slips over the end of the support tube. That is not good. See photos.

Cars on the ground. Fuel is in, ready to load the first run file and start the engine on Saturday! Hopefully no fireworks.