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I don't know about "approved" but I have re-installed the interior of several Z's now and here's my sequence, Headliner vinyl, header and side apron vinyl, a second person for the headliner is a big help but it can be done by yourself. Windshield and quarter windows. Dynamat or one of the many identical products for sound deadening and heat reflection. Install the wiring harness. Install Heater/blower and any AC parts. Install the dash, then insulation and carpets, plastic panels, add seat belts, then seats. Actually seats and steering wheel are the absolute last things to go in since you may have to crawl under the dash to correct some wiring fault.

VID-20200322-WA0000.mp4

The people of my town have clearly prioritised

No judging, just a way to pass some time. After a few take their guesses and stew for a while, I’ll reveal the answers.

Some interesting stuff in here https://www.zerohedge.com/health/covid-19-evidence-over-hysteria

It's hard to have a discussion about these things unless you decide beforehand what the final result is supposed to look like. Many people and politicians see things as a competition with winners and losers and they just want to be sure that their side wins. Others try to find a way where everyone wins. I think that is the basis of most political problems, they're talking about different goals. Your argument above is really just about distance, 600 feet versus 600 miles. But in the end it's the same thing. One is just more obvious.

That Germany comment is accurate same is true for Japan. The inability to be flexible, agile and know when a rule can be broken helped them lose the war. The was systemic in the Japanese army and Germans as well: leaders feared making decisions. Both are cultures of “rule followers”. You will be looked at dirty if you cross on red in both counties. This is also why they make great engineers and the products built in their factory’s have superior quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Angela Merkel in quarantine German Chancellor Angela Merkel is in quarantine after a doctor who gave her a vaccine tests positive for coronavirus.

240260280 and grannyknot got most of these right--- but I'll add 1. Hatch cargo strap band 6. Accelerator rod to throttle linkage spring 11. Pre-installed appearance of an ignition lock security screw (un-snapped) 8^P----your blurred photo is a hoax

Pictures tell a lot...............................

I don't know a lot about the fine details, but the E31 was used on the early E31 L24 block upto around Oct/Nov 1970. Your 240Z should have a P30 L24 block with an E88 head. The N42 was on the early L28 in the 280Z leaded fuel version. They changed to the N47 when unleaded was introduced. I know the early E88 had the same chambers as the E31 until somewhere around Aug 71 I believe. Not sure where that lines up with the Vin numbers. The later E88 heads had larger chambers and the E88 on the L26 got the bigger 35mm exhaust valve and the less desired emmision chambers. The valves in the E31/E88 were 42mm inlet and 33mm exhaust. The N42 has 44mm and 35mm. Chambers on the E31 and early E88 smaller than the N42.

in an attempt to reduce oil consumption (1q 1000 apx) I decided to replace the intake guide seals. I decided to only to the intakes since its not an easy task and I figure the exhaust side would not suck oil anyway. Based on the condition they have been I would think its prob not going to help anyway since the old ones seem pliable, but maybe a bit larger diameter where the valve stem seals. I was going to do a video but that is just too hard to capture so I thought I would share my process. removed the valve cover, and all the plugs. used a 19mm on the camshaft bolt to turn the lobes with the intake lobe straight up, this is past TDC on the piston stroke. used some rubber hose that just fits into the plug hole, then used my seal puller pliers to choke up on it near the plug hole so I can push it in it will not go any more. The pliers help grip in close to the hole so you don't have the hose bending while trying to stuff it in. rotate the camshaft back so the lobes are "bunny ears" this will push the piston up to TDC and really jam the hose up against the valve. I forgot to mention I used the natural bend in the hose and aim for the intake valve. loosen the rockers jam nut and run the pivot all the way down. remove the rocker arm retainer spring, the pry off the rocker from the pivot. I used the 17 mm wrench handy to lift up on the back of the rocker near the pivot. I suppose you could also just depress the valve spring a bit to. Just make sure you keep up with the lash pad. It will prob stay over the valve but stil... with the rocker out of the way use the OHC valve spring compressor, the kind that hooks around the cam shaft (not the lobes) and has a pivot point that allows for downward pressure on the valve spring. You may want to give the top of each valve spring a light smack with a large drift to loosen up the retainers. while depressing the valve springs use a magnet on a stick (small) and retrieve the two retainers. with them out the spring release to its full height. While doing this its a good idea to watch the valve stem it may move downward some, but if the hose was set right it will be very little. the less movement the better since you do not have to depress the spring as much. remove the spring assy (two springs an inner and outer and a cap, keep up with the lash pad (get that out before attempting the retainers with the magnet). watch out for a spacer that sits on the bottom of the spring stack, it prob will stay on the top of the head, but you want to make sure as you remove the springs. now the easy part use the valve stem seal puller pliers to remove the old seal, just grab it mid section and gently pull up. Careful here as the pliers will want to jump up and you are right next to the cam lobe, just don't want to scratch anything. I soaked the new Nissan seals in some motor oil to install, then use the pliers above to push it into place. you can see when it bottoms out. replace the valve springs, setup the spring compressor, replace the retainers (yea just like that, presto). the retainers can be a bit of a pita. I used some hemostats and would set one in place from the driver side, ease up on the compressor while rotating the retainer around so the next one will be easier to go in. A single retainer once set will hold it together while you get the next retainer setup on the hemostats. I tried for a 10/4 or 2/8 position as this was where they were when I started. You may want to look make note of this for yourself. anyway after some fiddling with the second retainer it will just drop in an your are done. replace the rocker and reset the lash. Have fun!!

There was an interesting article about the cruise lines on Zerohedge the other day. Very enlightening! They are all flagged out of low tax countries to evade US tax law and workers right laws but now they want a US bailout??? Another good reason to not go on a cruise...

I got the car back down on the ground after 4 months! Over the yrs I have built various DIY wheel alignment jigs for Toe, bumpsteer and camber measurements, some were better than others but none of them were very accurate, so I found this kit, https://www.amazon.com/Tenhulzen-3300-2-Wheel-Alignment-System/dp/B00PKI0YSU For the home mechanic it's quite good and easy to use, the written instructions are adequate but the videos are precise and nice and short. After using it a couple of times it becomes second nature. Now Z's can only be adjusted for toe but with so many after market suspension setups available now this is a good way to set up your own car or daily drivers. I pushed my lower control arms out for more camber and added caster adjustments to the TC rods.

Well thanks, glad I could help. I put the windshield in before the dash so I can get right up next to the glass and rubber seal when pulling the trimmer line to bring the seal over the pinch weld. I just feel I have better control of the process when I have some room to move, with the dash in place there isn't much room to maneuver the string. Especially in the bottom R/L corners where you have to rotate the string to get it jump over the pinch weld.

Love the new avatar! I need bigger images too!

He's going to get mad at the doctor for not agreeing and criticize his height.

That little padded ring is glued to the back of the door panel over the window crank hole. Definitely "optional" More window crank clips are here. https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nissan-Window-Crank-Handle-Retaining-Clip-p/a16340.htm I see the price is no longer the $5.39 I paid in 2013. Now $11.39, but still cheap for a 100. I think I still have 50 of the box I bought back then. And they are a perfect fit BTW

You left out the Chinese - 1,000 years.

Fastest growth rate in the world. Mardi Gras? If you've ever been in the French Quarter during Mardi Gras you can imagine it. You become one blob of humanity.

When you tell a German to exercise social distancing the do it like a religion. When you tell an American to do it that have beach parties and share beer bongs and marshmallows skewers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@siteunseen thanks! I’ll remember to grab all those when I go back into the car, I lost thewjndow roller retainer clip, it comically did the “ping” when it shot out into the grass. >.>

Germany is the country where people wait for the walk signal at 2 am, with not a car in sight or sound. I've seen it, it's true.. More Tweets about another Senator quarantining. Apparently Rand aAul continued going to the gym even though he had been tested, and eventually came up positive. Leadership...

I remembered a excellent website in Australia that might be some help. You can play with all the combinations. http://www.ozdat.com.au/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

The zerohedge article I posted has been updated with a refutation by a virologist I take all of these with a "grain of salt" the good and the bad. Then I try to balance it all out. I think the truth is probably somewhere in the middle. Which could still be really bad! Just so many unknowns. One of the guys on my crossbow forum in Ontario, his grand daughter, daughter and wife have it. He is probably an asymptomatic carrier. His daughter is a nurse

Great idea @240260280 !!!

Things like this might be the real "game changer" as far as what types of action are taken. Interesting development. p.s. I'm not for or against Rand Paul, specifically, and am not promoting any of the tweets and retweets. It's just the world we live in today. The news is on the official Rand Paul Twitter feed. I found it in the "normal" media.

These really are crazy times. I have used my time cleaning and arranging the tools of my garden. I finally got my new Legacy Air Hose Reel https://gardeningfacts.org/best-hose-reel/legacy-air-hose-reel-reviews/ since keeping my long hose stresses me a lot on where I will put it.Hope everyone is at home safe. I'll continue watching this videos.

3 = choke cable clip

That is why I said around Oct/Nov. Vin numbers would be a more accurate means of identifying the transition. There are so many points where things change.

The one set I purchased was very impressive. And they stayed looking great on my very well used 73.

No worship services today at our church so I tackled some yard work and tested out my homemade control arm shaft removal tool before having to go to work this afternoon. Tool worked perfectly. It is important to get the B-7 threaded rod to take the torque needed to pull out the bushing shaft. I used the 1/2-13 x 2ft threaded rod B7 grade-GRAINGER #19NM76, 1 inch x 12 black unthreaded pipe-GRAINGER #1CPY3, 2 heavy 1/2 flat washers-GRAINGER #22UE17, welded a M12-1.25 nut to a 1/2-13 threaded rod coupler, put that through the pipe and threaded the nut onto the shaft. I also put a 1/2-13 nut to jam the rod to the coupler as an extra measure of strength. A good sized 3/4 box wrench got the process started and then switched to a ratchet flat wrench to continue the pulling. A liberal spray of lubricant on the threaded rod before beginning the process is also a good idea. Certainly saved some money on the tool and no damage to the shaft. A good cleaning and lube on the shaft should be fine. Now just have to get the old bushings out of the control arm. Project for another day. Thanks again for all the input, John-Lugoff, SC.

Just for reference, I know of an all original 3/71 with an E31. Also has the side drain oil pan, but on a p30 block.

My Dec 1970 car has the E31 head.

Keeping with the theme of things

5.25 pounds for 24 beers? That's like 6 U.S. dollars. The aisles would be clear here too.

Some Science:

Please be careful, those stick-your-head-in-the-sand ignore-science web sites are very dangerous! Here is what can happen:

Following that local news report, let's see what was happening in The Rest Of The World... Nissan - like any other serious motor vehicle manufacturer which intended to sell its products all over the world - was keeping up with regulations introduced on a rolling basis as advised by United Nations Working Party 29 ('WP29'), which had been formed in 1958 as the 'World Forum For Harmonization Of Vehicle Regulations'. Japanese manufacturers like Nissan were also compliant with Japan's own Japanese Industrial Standards ('JIS') and it made sense for them - wherever feasible - to design their products in a way that made them simultaneously compliant with as many standards as possible. Nissan was not designing to comply solely with FMVSS regulations, and nor were FMVSS regulations the sole driver of Nissan's designs, evolutions and updates. Perforated-spoke Izumi steering wheels were introduced to the Japanese market S30-series Z models (which used 'flatter', less dished steering wheels than the Export models) starting in the December 1970/January 1971 period of manufacture:

Best article I have read on this whole situation. Well done!

That is a good article. Not much actionable in it, but good reading. I think that he overstates "hysteria". It's the chicken/egg thing. If the media reports hysteria, is it media hysteria or real hysteria? I don't really get a feeling of public hysteria from what I've seen. Just a lack of useful information to guide people. The empty shelves have all filled back up. I just went shopping this morning, just to get ahead of a possible state-wide shutdown. Got everything I expected. No problems. We just need some good foresight and direction from the people that run the show. The government. As he states at the end, we need to remember how this whole mess was allowed to develop. Listening to 50 different leaders and trying to figure out who to believe doesn't instill much confidence. Thanks for posting that.. I haven't read a Tyler Durden article in years.

Making some progress. Lack of scale is hurting some perceptions... BTW, nothing is ZX or 510, just S30. I was VERY tempted to slip in a 510 thing but I resisted the urge.

The piece is very thin and flat. I need to do the head gasket for my own piece of mind. I have too much time cleaning the engine compartment to let it slide. I may get to it sooner now that I can't visit with anyone. Here are some pictures.

I did not read his earlier post and interpret gloating or any other negative intent. It is one of the weaknesses of the forum, there is no emotion in the written word and it is easy to misinterpret the writers intent. I took it more as a musing than gloating

I think original Nissan stuff is all paper/fibre so you're right to only us it once. You can get Kameari stuff here: http://kameariengineworks.co.jp/ (there's an email address on there somewhere, and Mr Mori will reply to English) Or rhdjapan.com if you're less adventurous! But I don't think they do full engine sets, just head gaskets. Apart from the cam cover, I tend to use Elring Dirko for everything else.

Thank you for the suggestion. I ended up grabbing the cable at the speedo end with a pair of vice grips and pulled it out about an inch an change. It definitely needed some force. After that I realigned the cable with the speedo and felt a much more significant "drop-in" than previous attempts. Turned the car on and it worked like a charm. Thanks again, super helpful.

This is a weird comment. Percentages are one of the most effective ways to describe large numbers. And odd that an "engineer" would ignore or not understand exponential growth, or even how any person wouldn't understand how disease spreads. It starts small and grows. It's not a constant like automobile deaths or addiction. But, that's today's world. Many "experts" sowing confusion. If society can get ahead of the growth fewer people will die. If they sit back and say it's a hoax and it will pass, more people will die by the time it's over. The math shows that.

Big milestone today, the exhaust system is finished and installed now which allowed me to move along with installation of the heat shields, coolant pressure container and finish up the engine bay electrical. The rad support crossover got some filler, primer, colour and 2 coats of clear today so the rad and oil cooler can go in now, just waiting on one more fitting for the new fuel system and I think I will be ready to turn the key! Of course then I will spent the following week trying to track down why it won't start, that's my usual MO.