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One Way

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About One Way

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 30505

  • Rank: ReZular

  • Content Count: 195

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  • Joined: 10/04/2015

  • Been With Us For: 2416 Days

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    Lugoff, SC
  • Occupation
    auto parts store assistant manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    resurrection project

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  1. Thanks for the tip for KFVINTAGEJDM. Looks like top quality products with the protective coating. The hatch panel is listed only under the 240Z catalog but all of the other suppliers list the same repair panel for 240-260-280. Am I safe to assume that repair panel will fit my 280Z? I may start tackling the RR hatch corner repair before going to work today. Thanks again, John-Lugoff,SC
  2. The copper heat sink bar is an absolute must have tool for sheet metal work. I recently purchased the magnetic adjustable copper heat sink bar from TP TOOLS and it is well worth it. My best success with the sheet metal welding has been to punch or drill holes into one of the patch pieces and just weld it closed with the heat sink behind the other patch. If you are a real good welder there is just a little bit of grinding needed to smooth everything out. I seem to have to do quite a bit of grinding, so that kind of rates my MIG welding capabilities, especially with my flux core welder I currently have. I just finished up the LR lower level hatch panel repair and it came out pretty good and very solid. I will have a good base to attach the new panel to. Just have to flip my template over, cut another piece of 22 GA sheet metal, and repeat the procedure for the RR hatch panel corner. I never realized how much of a contour that rear hatch has and apparently the hatch panel repair piece is also contoured, although the photos do not appear to have much of a contour. Just have to convince my good looking financial advisor to purchase that new panel. Thanks for the valuable input, John-Lugoff, SC
  3. Thanks for the quick response. TABCO PRODUCTS has the best price I have located. The little bit of searching I have done finds that they may be the one company doing the stampings for some of the better known Z supply parts houses. Does the panel bond need to be applied to bare metal only or would it work on metal that has been primed or painted? I have been using SEYMOUR self etch weld through primer on all of my patch repair pieces which seems to work very well on the welds. Just seems to be a good idea to have some protection on the metal repair pieces before joining together. Thanks again for the input. Looking forward to any other recommendations from the great group of Z experts here. John-Lugoff, SC
  4. There was not much left of the top layer of the rear hatch sheet metal above the tail light panel. I have fabricated some patch panel pieces for the bottom layer which was not too badly rusted out. The only decent section of the top layer was the actual latch area in the center. I have seen the repair panels offered by several suppliers and it would seem to be a fairly straight forward process of fitting, clamping, and welding. With the exception of the cosmetics of the panel, has any one fabricated the piece with just straight sheet metal and cutting out the center latch hole area using the original latch area as the template? I would rather spend the sheet metal money on the more visible exterior areas-bottom fender patch panels, etc. My main concern on the rear hatch area is the correct positioning of the rubber seal around the hatch lip. Helpful input welcome, even if that advice says spend the $150 for the repair panel. Also suggestions about welding the new piece in versus the panel bond adhesive method? Personally I lean toward the welding, but I am very much old school, more comfortable with what I know works through personal experience. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  5. You may be able to find an allen head bolt with the correct length and M6 thread or use either one of the above solutions as suggested. It is the little details like these that make a restoration so interesting or challenging. Enjoy the project, John-Lugoff, SC.
  6. Despite the rough last year and a half or almost two now we have all been through, we can always give thanks to the LORD for HE is good even when we are not or when circumstances are not the best. Happy Thanksgiving from ONEWAY-John-Lugoff, SC.
  7. I am not at all familiar with the plating process, but being in a tumbler I guess it would get mostly covered. The lower rubber block function seems to be cleaner appearance since the compression spring is captured in the nylon slider and the base has a tiny knob to keep the bottom of the spring positioned. It appears that the slider was placed into position and then the backing plate was spot welded? to the front slider bracket at time of assembly. I enjoy these little projects because I can sometimes squeeze them in to my odd work schedule, family and church responsibilities. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  8. Thanks for the responses. I just might reconsider and purchase a new set. CHRISTmas is coming soon. I really enjoy refurbishing the old original pieces rather than purchasing new replacements. A bit more of a challenge and this project has never been intended to be show quality so a nicely refurbished part works just fine for me. Thanks for the illustration on the soft rubber piece to keep the spring protected. My question is how the parts are plated or painted withe the nylon sliders still captured in the grooves? I have not had much time to evaluate my parts since the first post. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC
  9. I was quite surprised that this part is still available through Nissan and other suppliers. All told it would be around $50 to get a new pair. Just trying to budget where possible. There are many more important places to put $50 into this resurrection project and the rear hatch actually functions quite well as is but just want to clean up and at least paint these parts. The nylon slider is in good shape. I would need 2 small compression springs and not sure of what was originally placed to cover over the springs. That part is long gone. It really interests me how this part was originally assembled to have the nylon slider captured in the bracket. Trying to send along a picture with my wonderful wife's help. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  10. The resurrection project is moving towards the rear hatch area. Looks like I may be purchasing the new replacement repair panel if I can not fabricate a decent looking piece. A quick project on that portion of the car is the guide brackets with the nylon slides and small compression springs. One spring was completely gone, the other mostly intact. Is there a way to safely remove those nylon guides so I can media blast, clean and paint those brackets and later reinsert the nylon guides. I really do not want to bend the bracket to remove them. Not sure how they were assembled at the factory since the bracket is spot welded. Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  11. I also am not quite sure about the details either. The cable may just be corrosion seized into the slotted portion. If you are wanting to install a new cable, a die grinder or Dremel too with a cut off wheel will quickly slice through the cable. I did that up near the horseshoe shaped cable guide just to get the cable detached and out of the way so that I could remove, clean, and paint the bracket, control rod, and related pieces. Good luck with a tough project. There are are a lot of parts and pieces in that whole handbrake mechanism that need to work properly. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC
  12. Hopefully I got the PM to go through. Not much of a computer communicator. Parts catalog says 4 and do vaguely remember pulling those same clips off the drum end quite some time ago. Thanks, John. Hope to hear back from you on the PM. I have a day off today so I will check it in between odds and ends errands and projects today.
  13. Thanks for the response. I will be needing 4 of the clips. Do you do your own plating at home or is it done through your workplace? We can make arrangements for payment and shipping. Would $25 be adequate? That is about what it would cost if I ordered them from ZCAR. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Not sure how to securely share our addresses with each other so I can get a check in the mail and you can put the clips in an envelope.
  14. Thanks for the possible offer. My wife got the picture loaded for me. It gets frustrating with parts not having any dimensions or specs in so many of the descriptions. I send a few comments to O'Reilly corporate every week for adding pertinent info on their parts description page. Last week was a classic with a power steering pump pulley on a Cadillac that used 2 different sized shafts from OEM. The only info under description heading was "BLACK"-no dimensions whatsoever. Their e-mail response was that info will be added into their next update. Dealing with this every day at work makes you wonder who is actually creating these computer catalogs. I was hoping to find a generic part number for these clips but am not coming up with any dimension info. ZCARDEPOT does show these clips but again no dimensions shown. Thanks for listening, John, Lugoff, SC.
  15. Success with the clip removal. Twisting and prying just was not working except for bending up the clip flange , so I heated up the clips with the torch and pulled them right out with very little effort. Obviously can not do that if you are planning on reusing your cable-the rubber sheathing melted off real quickly. I will be needing new clips to go along with the new cable. I will do some research and see if we can come up with a good part number. I have the Raybestos cable which appears to be of good quality and crimps similar to the original cable. I will try to keep you updated. All the other handbrake parts are either in the EVAP-O-RUST jug, or have been cleaned , primed, and painted with new cotter pins and flange bolts already in my parts bag with the new cable. Someday I will actually start putting all the new or refurbished parts back on to the resurrection project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
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