One Way

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About One Way

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Lugoff, SC
  • Occupation
    auto parts store assistant manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    resurrection project

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  1. No worship services today at our church so I tackled some yard work and tested out my homemade control arm shaft removal tool before having to go to work this afternoon. Tool worked perfectly. It is important to get the B-7 threaded rod to take the torque needed to pull out the bushing shaft. I used the 1/2-13 x 2ft threaded rod B7 grade-GRAINGER #19NM76, 1 inch x 12 black unthreaded pipe-GRAINGER #1CPY3, 2 heavy 1/2 flat washers-GRAINGER #22UE17, welded a M12-1.25 nut to a 1/2-13 threaded rod coupler, put that through the pipe and threaded the nut onto the shaft. I also put a 1/2-13 nut to jam the rod to the coupler as an extra measure of strength. A good sized 3/4 box wrench got the process started and then switched to a ratchet flat wrench to continue the pulling. A liberal spray of lubricant on the threaded rod before beginning the process is also a good idea. Certainly saved some money on the tool and no damage to the shaft. A good cleaning and lube on the shaft should be fine. Now just have to get the old bushings out of the control arm. Project for another day. Thanks again for all the input, John-Lugoff, SC.
  2. Very familiar with prevailing torque nuts. I believe that would work on the Z stub axles with the 2 flat sides. Are the ZX axles fully round at the threaded end or do they have the flat spots? The torque specs are quite high on the rear axle nuts. I will have to do a bit more research. Thanks again for the great tips and pictures. My struts were the originals rather than the replacement cartridge style. That is what was confusing me as we tackled this project. I wrongly assumed the originals were also cartridge style. I believe I will be purchasing the KYB kit that includes the struts and bellows. The inside of my tubes look pretty good. A bit of honing and high quality grease on the cartridges should work out well. Cleaning, media blasting, priming, and top coating the rear suspension components will be quite the project in itself. Thanks again, John.
  3. Thanks for the great tips. Not damaging the stub axle threads is critical in this process. What type of locknut is the ZX version? Do the ZX stub axles also have the flat spaces? BLASTER certainly worked on the strut removal. Had a few minutes before going to work and shocked myself with a few good tugs by hand on the strut rod and it began coming out of the tube. That solved my #3 issue from my list in previous post and the great info in these past several posts should help with issues #1 and #2. Thanks again. Off to work I go-John-Lugoff, SC. Jeff G-Your narrative description of the axle nut removal was far superior than the video description I found on YOU TUBE. Great job in a detailed explanation. In this case your words were worth a thousand pictures.
  4. Certainly learning as we move along in the resurrection project, thanks to the wealth of Z knowledge on this site. Just a quick update. The coil spring has been safely removed with the compressor I purchased. I have the entire rear control arm assembly pulled out of the car. I am doing only one side at a time. The gland nut came off quite nicely. The LR strut had very little resistance up or down, the boot was torn and brittle, some scoring on the strut shaft, no signs of leakage, but not a whole lot of oil came out after removing the gland nut. Next obvious challenges. #1 The swing arm shaft removal. I have fabricated a pulling tool similar to the one offered at Z Car Depot. Hopefully it will work. #2 The stub axle retaining nut, bearings, and seal. The nut is obviously a use only once piece. What is the best way to remove the flattened portion of that special lock nut without damaging the threaded portion of the shaft? The one video I watched was a bit unclear but used a DREMEL tool to cut it off and a screwdriver or chisel to remove it. #3 Removing the rest of the strut. Will a slide hammer be helpful to yank it out of the tube or should a VISE GRIP work clamping it to the threaded end. I did not see any retaining rings inside the tube. My schedule required me to leave the project at this level of incompletion and will not be able to get back at it for several more days. Thanks again for all the tips and helps. Hope all are managing through the current worldwide crisis. I am following common sense precautions but mostly relying on my GOD who is my refuge and strength, a very present help in trouble. PSALM 46:1
  5. I believe these to be the original struts on the car. Last verified vehicle registration was 1995. it has been sitting since then. I purchased the resurrection project about four years ago .The strut spring compressor tool is inexpensive enough to purchase and have whenever needed. It will probably be next week before I can get back at the Z project. Is oil the way to go when reinstalling new struts into the receiver tubes or would anti-seize or high quality grease work as well. The few struts I have replaced on our newer personal vehicles were all one piece units that simply bolted into place and I wrongly assumed these rear struts were similar in design and sat in the pocket of the rear axle housing. If I had any brains that worked I should have noticed the replacement strut pictures had nothing to support the coil spring. Now I know how the Z cars have the struts designed and looking forward to the challenge. Thanks again. Keep the helpful tips coming, John-Lugoff, SC
  6. Dummy me alert! After reading some of the info here, I now realize the actual strut goes down into the receiver tube. I initially thought the receiver tube was the actual strut. Next step is a spring compressor purchase and then attempt to remove the strut from the receiver tube. The boots are torn, the rods pretty scuffed up, time for new struts and boots. I probably will just keep those receiver tubes attached to the axle bearing housing and clean and paint as needed. Will keep you posted. Thanks, John.
  7. Tackling the rear suspension components on this resurrection project. Best suggestions for removing the struts out of the housings. I have been spraying all the parts with Blaster, using a breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and a little heat if needed in the tear down of the rear suspension. So far so good but no luck on the struts seized into the housings. Pipe wrench and cheater bar did not do anything to break the corrosion and I am not too excited about applying any heat around the struts. Any advice from other rusty Z experts? Also wondering about the springs. They look fine but rusty and over 40 years old. Clean and paint or buy new? Thanks in advance for any help. John=Lugoff, SC.
  8. I was looking into getting the DANA-SPICER u joints. Normally the highest grade u joints readily accessible. I did notice after cleaning away all the grease and grime and rust, one of the joints has a long extended grease zerk while the other one has the usual short stubby one. Some of the u joints I have looked into have the long zerk. The DANA-SPICER shows just the short one. I will certainly be doing some careful measuring as we proceed with this particular project. There is a slight amount of play in the LR outer joint. I have not yet removed or cleaned the RR axle. Thanks for the helpful advice, John-Lugoff, SC.
  9. Just beginning the resurrection project on the rear axles and related components. Removing the outboard axle nuts required some heat-red hot- to break loose after 40 plus years. I know new nuts and lock washers will be required, but what do you think about the bolts? The J.I.S. M10 hardware is a bit difficult to locate-14mm hex size-and the taller height nuts I believe will work in that spot. Interference nuts or regular nuts with lock washers? Just looking for recommendations on the best hardware options. I have got the new rubber boots and clamps already and will be pressing out the u-joints as time permits to size them up. Surprisingly the u-joints still feel pretty good moving but like all the other aged original parts they should be replaced. Thanks for all the help with our resurrection project, John-Lugoff, SC.
  10. I picked up a nice double flaring kit at the Charlotte Auto Fair a while back at one of the tool vendors. Not a name brand kit but looks pretty good, has all the pieces the expensive name brand kits have. Seemed to work good on the few lines I did on another project but have not used it enough to get real familiar with. Thanks for the helpful tip, John-Lugoff, SC.
  11. Thanks for the info. I guess I need to play around with my flaring tool a little bit more. I am planning to purchase a better tubing cutter-my current one has seen better days-and the neat deburring tool that ONLINE TUBE has to offer. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  12. Thanks for the tips. The fuel pump in my 78 has a 1/2 inch inlet hose . A little research through WIX found #33299 to be a metal style with 1/2 inch barb ends. There are not too many inline fuel filters with the 1/2 inch barb unless you go to a high performance style where you thread in your choice of adapters to the filter. A little strange that Datsun never installed a filter before the pump. I was very impressed with the booth that INLINE TUBE had at last fall's AUTO FAIR at Charlotte Motor Speedway showing their copper/nickel tubing that bends so easily and smoothly and seemed to flare very nicely too. I almost bought a roll of the 5/16 for the fuel and a roll of 3/16 for the brakes but passed it up. Maybe at the spring AUTO FAIR in April I will pick it up and save the shipping. I have done the inverted flares on brake lines before with my tool but not sure how we can get the rounded bulge in the line for the fuel hose. The O'Reilly price on that Beck-Arnley pump is about double the Rock Auto price. I did not even bother to check my Team Member pricing for that pump. The Import Direct pump with a lifetime warranty will run me around $80 with my Team Member discount at O'Reilly's. They do treat their employees very well on parts discounts. I will keep the project slowly moving forward as time permits. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC
  13. Thanks for the response. The resurrection project is 42 years old, last record of being on the road is 1996-inspection tag on windshield-and the storage was not friendly to this Z. Some rust on the lines and what you can see on the exposed ends internally does not look good. Tank and lines did have something in them at one point in time may have been gasoline. Just want to eliminate a potential problem. The Z is all torn down and would be much easier to tackle the lines now rather than later. Any suggestions on using aluminum fuel line or the copper/nickel line. Everything I have read says the stainless steel line is hard to work with. Also will have to purchase a flaring tool to put the little knob in the line. I do not believe the brake flaring kit I have does that? I have only used it to do inverted flares on brake lines in the past. PART NUMBERS for the damper and fuel pump BOSCH 16121178035 available at Pelican Parts, BimmerWorld, Turner Motorsports-all BMW specialty houses IMPORT DIRECT E16078 available at O'Reilly Auto-looks very close to OEM BECK-ARNLEY 152-0253-exact match to OEM Progress on the Z continues to creep along during rare times I am not working, babysitting, taking care of the family needs, or yard work. Thanks again. John-Lugoff, SC
  14. Just beginning to resurrect the rear portion of the fuel system. Working with the great info from this site on the fuel damper. Hopefully we will track one down. Is the OEM pump the way to go for a stock EFI engine or will an aftermarket unit do the job? Huge price differences. O'Reilly offers their IMPORT DIRECT brand that appears similar in size and design with correct size inlet and outlet sizes and 2 terminals. Most of the other aftermarket units seem to be "CAN MAKE IT FIT" varieties with several fittings, rubber cushions, etc. Would it be wise to install a fuel filter between the tank and pump? Any suggestions on an inline filter with 1/2" barbs? What is the best way to do the fuel line to the engine compartment? I am considering going the high PSI 5/16 injection hose or should we go the steel line route? Is there stainless tubing available to combat the modern fuel issues and corrosion? Many new vehicles are using the hard plastic lines now. All suggestions welcome as I begin the cleaning, blasting, painting process on all the fuel pump brackets and mounts. Thanks again for this great resource of info on my Z project, John-Lugoff, SC.
  15. Back to square one with the distributor. After placing the order for the needed parts and waiting a few weeks with no results I contacted the Nissan dealer parts dept. handling the order placed through and got the bad news the parts are discontinued. Why they were still listed on the site, I am not sure. Other parts were clearly listed as discontinued. Here is the list of parts needed. Vacuum advance-#22301-N4200 Plate #22136-N4200 First 2 are must haves. Third part just would be nice to have, Slider-holder cap-#22116-N4200 I will continue to investigate as time permits. Hopefully the Z experts can provide some more clues. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.