One Way

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About One Way

  • Rank
    Active Member

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  • Map Location
    Lugoff, SC
  • Occupation
    auto parts store assistant manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    resurrection project

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  1. I have seen their ad in Hemmings Motor News. The Damper Doctor has a nice looking website and very good reviews. Nice to know of another Datsun guy having good results as well. Depending on our weather situation tomorrow I may try to contact them by phone and get the correct process for sending mine out there and checking about the rusty grooves. They may want them cleaned before sending it to them. Thanks for the info, John-Lugoff, SC.
  2. We purchased this resurrection project knowing it had been sitting since 1996, and the sit time was not too friendly to our Z. Besides being rusty in the pulley grooves, I am a bit concerned about the rubber binding material on the balancer. The ones I have found do not look like the original and the diameter specs listed do not match mine. There are a few specialists rebuiding the balancers with new bonding processes. Any suggestions from the Z experts will be greatly appreciated. Based on the number of harmonic balancers we sell at our parts store for much newer vehicles, my previous belief of them being a part that never goes bad, has been erased. Being over 40 years old and over 20 years of bad storage has made me a bit uneasy with this balancer/crankshaft pulley. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC-praying for minimal damage from Hurricane Dorian. We are far enough inland to avoid the strongest damage but concerned about others near the coast.
  3. Thanks for the info on CSV. Should have figured that one out for myself. My mental image of the CSV is on the other end of the intake. I guess it really does not matter which end supplies the fuel to the CSV. Looking forward to this modification project and sourcing the aluminum fuel rail material, good quality barbed fittings, and the challenge of the drilling and tapping. Suggestions welcomed, John-Lugoff, SC.
  4. The picture is worth a thousand words. Barb fitting appears to be 1/8 NPT ? Please correct me if I am mistaken. Also I know the FPR stands for the fuel pressure regulator, but not sure about the CSV designation. I will certainly need to do some more homework on the plumbing. The original FPR on the 78 has 3 barbs. I believe 1 is the vacuum and the others were the in and out lines. I may have it all wrong in my head. That happens quite often. Thanks for any additional clarification and help, John-Lugoff, SC.
  5. Thanks for the great tips. Teflon tape is a great sealer for household plumbing projects, but not very valuable when it comes to automotive or industrial applications involving gas or oil. Sorry for the response delays but work-shorthanded as normal the past several months, church work-love serving my LORD and SAVIOR-and babysitting-always a lot of fun with the grandkids, get in the way of the car project at times. Still waiting on some additional responses about the BCCD delete option or access to the diaphragms and gaskets needed. Thanks again, John, Lugoff, SC
  6. As stated before this car has not been on the road since 1996 and the throttle body is quite dirty and needs a soaking. Throttle shaft feels good and tight, operates smoothly. Throttle position sensor was immaculate. The plastic cover did it's sealing job perfectly on that part. The BCCD is another story along with the dashpot. Not in reuseable condition. Any suggestions? The BCCD seems to be a bit of controversy on the Forums. Can it be eliminated without major driveability issues? I have not found any replacement parts for either the dashpot or BCCD. The rest of the throttle body will be soaking for a few days. Will have to wait and see how it turns out. Thanks again for all the help. John-Lugoff, SC.
  7. P.S. Just found the measurement specs on the link. Should be helpful. Assuming this was a 3 ft fuel rail? Some of the measurements were given from the end of the fuel rail , but the most important figures are the distances between each barb. Thanks again, computer dummy John.
  8. Been doing my research on this great website, even though I am an admitted and verifiable computer dummy, was not able to connect to some of the suggested links, the aluminum fuel rail seems to be an improved choice over the complex spaghetti bend tubing of the original. Drilling and tapping are in my limited machining capabilities and seems like a doable project costing a lot less than the premade aluminum rails. Sounds like a fun challenge. Just a couple of questions? How is the new rail attached to the intake? Are the barbed fittings tapped with NPT sizes or O-ring thread? Do the threaded end of the fittings need to be flush with the interior base of the rail? I could not seem to get the link with the measurements required but thought using the original rail as the template could also be a correct procedure. Thanks for any additional experienced help and advice. The aluminum fuel rail sure looks nicer, neater, cleaner than the spaghetti bend original fuel rail and sounds like it may also improve driveability and performance. Thanks again, John, Lugoff, SC.
  9. Thanks for the great tips. Every rubber hose is going to be replaced as we tackle this project. The aluminum fuel rail looks a whole lot simpler and cleaner than the OEM style with all the tubing and fittings. I will study that out a bit further. I think the OEM rail has 3 open ends on it for the 78 model? The aluminum rail seems to just have the 2-one on each end. I will have to search through some pictures and see how one of those aluminum fuel rails is mounted and secured, Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  10. Progress continues slowly on this resurrection project. Acquired the car a few years back. Had not been registered since 1996 and the storage years were not very friendly to this amazingly 100% complete and original car. Being over 40 years old and badly sitting for some 20 years, the fuel system needs a total restoration. I am cleaning up the fuel rail-bit of surface rust in areas- and will be painting it with hi temp engine spray, primer and top coat. I am assuming the fuel pressure regulator is bad, and know all the injectors are bad. Am I better off to just replace the pressure regulator with the OEM factory style, or upgrade to an adjustable unit with a gauge? This is a budget project with a basically stock engine rebuild in the plans. This is not a " numbers matching restoration" but trying to build it as a reliable, fun, driver. Is the adjustable regulator and gauge worth the necessary minor modifications-mounting bracket, plumbing, etc.? Thanks for all the great input I have received from the great Z car people on this site, John-Lugoff, SC
  11. Thanks for the responses. I did get 2 of the temperature sensors. They look to be correct and match right up to the old corroded sensors. O'Reilly Auto Parts have the 2 parts that fit my 78 280Z. 17-1253 & 17-1233, both under the line code of IDI. They also list the cold start valve under Standard Ignition brand but have no listing for the thermo timer sensor. Most of the dedicated Z sites do offer that sensor and I guess I will be purchasing one soon. Great tech article from siteunseen. Thank you, John-Lugoff, SC.
  12. Slowly proceeding with restoring the thermostat housing/water outlet assembly. Lots of BLASTER and quite a bit of patience got all the sensors and fittings removed and the outlet separated from the thermostat housing. My question is on the sending unit with the single terminal stud. All of the ones I am locating do not have any threads, unlike the threaded version that was removed. Is that sending unit pressed into the nut or am I looking up the wrong part? The thermo timer seems to be the most expensive of the 3 sensors. Any recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and order a new one along with the cold start valve. The housings are now all cleaned, primed, and painted with the ceramic engine paint and look good. Just looking for some info on the best option for the additional parts needed. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Enjoying every minute of the resurrection project!
  13. The GATES # are correct. They are quite a rare commodity. Both boxes are actually labeled-MADE IN THE USA. Hopefully that includes the contents, not just the box. Being in the retail auto parts business, it is quite discouraging to see how few parts are actually made in the USA. GATES #23832 is the 2" ID. GATES #23820 is the 1-1/4" ID. Both come in 6 ft lengths. Both are listed in our company's catalog system under defrost hose. Thanks again for the responses. I am doing my best to keep the resurrection process going on the 78Z, John-Lugoff, SC.
  14. Thanks for the great replies. Did a bit of parts research and have come up with some GATES # at a much better price than the Dorman or Dayco. Gates #23832 is the 2". Gates # 23820 is the 1-1/4". I should have those by this Friday and will keep everybody posted about the GATES duct hoses. The pictures and descriptions do not give any details except the I.D. and the 6 ft length they come in. About 1/3 the price of the other suppliers. DAYCO does list the #80165 as 1-1/4 I.D. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  15. Thanks again! This diagram looks a bit different than my memory, but then again my memory is not always accurate. It would be reference #4 or #10. Not sure if your 1975 is identical to my 1978 but many of the illustrated parts look very similar. Is that the factory parts illustration you have? I was using CARPARTSMANUAL, especially when I was working on our 1968 2000 roadster for parts illustrations and numbers but on my last check on that website it came up with some CRITICAL ERROR ALERT and was not able to access the website which also had the Z cars, 510, and some other Datsun vintage vehicles. I am quite a computer dummy when it comes to navigating, downloading, etc. I guess I am a dinosaur and still prefer a paper copy in hand. Thanks again, John. I will be researching and tracking down those part # you provided if time permits today.