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One Way

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About One Way

  • Rank
    Active Member


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  • Map Location
    Lugoff, SC
  • Occupation
    auto parts store assistant manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    resurrection project

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  1. Thanks for the great tips. Every rubber hose is going to be replaced as we tackle this project. The aluminum fuel rail looks a whole lot simpler and cleaner than the OEM style with all the tubing and fittings. I will study that out a bit further. I think the OEM rail has 3 open ends on it for the 78 model? The aluminum rail seems to just have the 2-one on each end. I will have to search through some pictures and see how one of those aluminum fuel rails is mounted and secured, Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  2. Progress continues slowly on this resurrection project. Acquired the car a few years back. Had not been registered since 1996 and the storage years were not very friendly to this amazingly 100% complete and original car. Being over 40 years old and badly sitting for some 20 years, the fuel system needs a total restoration. I am cleaning up the fuel rail-bit of surface rust in areas- and will be painting it with hi temp engine spray, primer and top coat. I am assuming the fuel pressure regulator is bad, and know all the injectors are bad. Am I better off to just replace the pressure regulator with the OEM factory style, or upgrade to an adjustable unit with a gauge? This is a budget project with a basically stock engine rebuild in the plans. This is not a " numbers matching restoration" but trying to build it as a reliable, fun, driver. Is the adjustable regulator and gauge worth the necessary minor modifications-mounting bracket, plumbing, etc.? Thanks for all the great input I have received from the great Z car people on this site, John-Lugoff, SC
  3. Thanks for the responses. I did get 2 of the temperature sensors. They look to be correct and match right up to the old corroded sensors. O'Reilly Auto Parts have the 2 parts that fit my 78 280Z. 17-1253 & 17-1233, both under the line code of IDI. They also list the cold start valve under Standard Ignition brand but have no listing for the thermo timer sensor. Most of the dedicated Z sites do offer that sensor and I guess I will be purchasing one soon. Great tech article from siteunseen. Thank you, John-Lugoff, SC.
  4. Slowly proceeding with restoring the thermostat housing/water outlet assembly. Lots of BLASTER and quite a bit of patience got all the sensors and fittings removed and the outlet separated from the thermostat housing. My question is on the sending unit with the single terminal stud. All of the ones I am locating do not have any threads, unlike the threaded version that was removed. Is that sending unit pressed into the nut or am I looking up the wrong part? The thermo timer seems to be the most expensive of the 3 sensors. Any recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and order a new one along with the cold start valve. The housings are now all cleaned, primed, and painted with the ceramic engine paint and look good. Just looking for some info on the best option for the additional parts needed. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC. Enjoying every minute of the resurrection project!
  5. The GATES # are correct. They are quite a rare commodity. Both boxes are actually labeled-MADE IN THE USA. Hopefully that includes the contents, not just the box. Being in the retail auto parts business, it is quite discouraging to see how few parts are actually made in the USA. GATES #23832 is the 2" ID. GATES #23820 is the 1-1/4" ID. Both come in 6 ft lengths. Both are listed in our company's catalog system under defrost hose. Thanks again for the responses. I am doing my best to keep the resurrection process going on the 78Z, John-Lugoff, SC.
  6. Thanks for the great replies. Did a bit of parts research and have come up with some GATES # at a much better price than the Dorman or Dayco. Gates #23832 is the 2". Gates # 23820 is the 1-1/4". I should have those by this Friday and will keep everybody posted about the GATES duct hoses. The pictures and descriptions do not give any details except the I.D. and the 6 ft length they come in. About 1/3 the price of the other suppliers. DAYCO does list the #80165 as 1-1/4 I.D. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  7. Thanks again! This diagram looks a bit different than my memory, but then again my memory is not always accurate. It would be reference #4 or #10. Not sure if your 1975 is identical to my 1978 but many of the illustrated parts look very similar. Is that the factory parts illustration you have? I was using CARPARTSMANUAL, especially when I was working on our 1968 2000 roadster for parts illustrations and numbers but on my last check on that website it came up with some CRITICAL ERROR ALERT and was not able to access the website which also had the Z cars, 510, and some other Datsun vintage vehicles. I am quite a computer dummy when it comes to navigating, downloading, etc. I guess I am a dinosaur and still prefer a paper copy in hand. Thanks again, John. I will be researching and tracking down those part # you provided if time permits today.
  8. Thank you so much! It is always great to get part numbers with the suggestions. My 78 also has a smaller diameter hose that was barely there when disassembled and I think it was 1.25. I am going out to the garage right now and see if I can quickly locate the duct and measure it accurately. I know the part is in the box with the other disassembled pieces. Thanks again for the great help, John-Lugoff, SC
  9. The 40 year old duct hoses are pretty deteriorated. Best suggestions for replacements? I am finding some 2" duct hose from DORMAN #96034 which looks more like the duct hose for the heat exchange from exhaust manifolds from older vehicles. Helpful suggestions always welcome. The resurrection project is slowly marching on. I will have a little more spare time the next few months now that school is over and my babysitting duties are done until the middle of August when our daughter returns to her teaching job. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC
  10. Thanks for the great info. The strangest thing about this project car is that many of the components are in like new condition with a gentle cleaning, and others are ravaged by rust. First choice is to refurbish but we have found out that is not an option on each part. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  11. Continuing to refurbish smaller components on my resurrection project, and have started to tackle the wiper linkages. The car had been sitting for way too long before I decided to purchase it and sadly most of the pivot points in the wiper linkages were seized and one section badly rusted. Some BLASTER, patience, wire brushes, and various drill attachments have gotten all the parts cleaned up very nicely and are ready for some good primer and paint. The wave washers will be able to be reused, but the large thin washer and thin torsion spring on the end of the linkage arm are badly rotted as were most of the small retaining clips. The felt washers were also in rough shape. The wiper motor bag cover was intact but too brittle to save. Wiper motor looks like new except for one small portion on the motor case that is rusty. Probably sitting in water trapped in the bag cover or cowl area. Any sources for the hardware needed and the purpose of that light torsion spring? Thanks for any tips and have a thankful Thanksgiving, John-Lugoff, SC.
  12. Just some additional thoughts toward the cost of reman products. Without looking it up and relying on my faulty memory, I believe the reman alternator for the 78 Z with a lifetime warranty was around $70 plus a $10 or $15 core charge. Basically the reman operation has an initial cost of that $15, plus shipping expenses, plus labor, overhead, parts, etc. Core costs are purely supply and demand driven. Not uncommon to have a $50-$80 core charge on newer vehicle alternators selling for $150-$200. Check out core prices for GM instrument clusters. Very often the core charge is much higher than the cost of the part. Core charge may be $300 or a little higher while the customer pays $150-$200 for the cluster. Very hard to figure out. Sometimes I wish I were a bit more involved on that end of the auto parts industries but really do enjoy the position of helping customers at the front counter solve their automotive needs. The LORD provided me this job and am thankful for it. Thanks for your time, John-Lugoff, SC.
  13. The reman alternators and starters we sell with the lifetime warranties do come with an inspection and test sheet with a technician ID #. There is a PASS/ FAIL column and naturally they are all checked off PASS. Very few customers ever take the paperwork and instructions with them when we swap out the core at the time of purchase. Core must be placed back into the original box to be sent back. The reman operation is based in Mexico so I am sure the labor rates are very low. According to the store operations manual we are supposed to test each alternator sold-both reman and new-before giving it to the customer. Rarely happens unless requested by the customer due to the fast paced nature and low staffing of our store. That is the nature of almost any business today. We have had our share of alternators taken out of the box to examine before sale-another store operations manual instruction-and this usually gets done-and find broken/cracked posts or terminals, pulleys that will not turn, plastic covers cracked, etc. Some of that may be shipping damage, or could be lack of quality control. I will be digging into the service manual and having a challenge to tackle. Parts should be here towards the end of the week. Will keep you posted on progress, success or failure. Thanks , John-Lugoff, SC,
  14. Just an additional thought. I will be spending about $30 more for the parts-2 bearings and the brush/regulator assy-than purchasing a reman unit, plus the time involved. Honestly I was quite surprised the brush/regulator assy was even available. The bearings are just common sized ball bearings. Probably does not make any financial sense but I will enjoy the project. Thanks for your time, John.
  15. I would really like to know more about the quality control standards of both reman and new parts. Seems that todays business strategy stresses quantity over quality. Price is the obvious controlling factor. Most parts, including many reman units carry a lifetime warranty. Are they remanufactured to that quality standard or are the profits so high that warranty returns do not affect the bottom line that much? As stated before , my employer switched suppliers for reman alternators and starters about 2 years ago with the reason given being % rate of failures. That being said I am going to tackle my own rebuild on the alternator. Then I will know which parts are really new. I will have an enjoyable new challenge, just not too sure about my lack of experience and knowledge. It may end up like those dreaded reman stories shared in the above posts. Hopefully the factory service manual will have some tips and specifications. Just have not had the time needed to do more research. Thanks for all the comments. John-Lugoff, SC.
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