One Way

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About One Way

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Lugoff, SC
  • Occupation
    auto parts store assistant manager

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    resurrection project

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  1. I picked up a nice double flaring kit at the Charlotte Auto Fair a while back at one of the tool vendors. Not a name brand kit but looks pretty good, has all the pieces the expensive name brand kits have. Seemed to work good on the few lines I did on another project but have not used it enough to get real familiar with. Thanks for the helpful tip, John-Lugoff, SC.
  2. Thanks for the info. I guess I need to play around with my flaring tool a little bit more. I am planning to purchase a better tubing cutter-my current one has seen better days-and the neat deburring tool that ONLINE TUBE has to offer. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  3. Thanks for the tips. The fuel pump in my 78 has a 1/2 inch inlet hose . A little research through WIX found #33299 to be a metal style with 1/2 inch barb ends. There are not too many inline fuel filters with the 1/2 inch barb unless you go to a high performance style where you thread in your choice of adapters to the filter. A little strange that Datsun never installed a filter before the pump. I was very impressed with the booth that INLINE TUBE had at last fall's AUTO FAIR at Charlotte Motor Speedway showing their copper/nickel tubing that bends so easily and smoothly and seemed to flare very nicely too. I almost bought a roll of the 5/16 for the fuel and a roll of 3/16 for the brakes but passed it up. Maybe at the spring AUTO FAIR in April I will pick it up and save the shipping. I have done the inverted flares on brake lines before with my tool but not sure how we can get the rounded bulge in the line for the fuel hose. The O'Reilly price on that Beck-Arnley pump is about double the Rock Auto price. I did not even bother to check my Team Member pricing for that pump. The Import Direct pump with a lifetime warranty will run me around $80 with my Team Member discount at O'Reilly's. They do treat their employees very well on parts discounts. I will keep the project slowly moving forward as time permits. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC
  4. Thanks for the response. The resurrection project is 42 years old, last record of being on the road is 1996-inspection tag on windshield-and the storage was not friendly to this Z. Some rust on the lines and what you can see on the exposed ends internally does not look good. Tank and lines did have something in them at one point in time may have been gasoline. Just want to eliminate a potential problem. The Z is all torn down and would be much easier to tackle the lines now rather than later. Any suggestions on using aluminum fuel line or the copper/nickel line. Everything I have read says the stainless steel line is hard to work with. Also will have to purchase a flaring tool to put the little knob in the line. I do not believe the brake flaring kit I have does that? I have only used it to do inverted flares on brake lines in the past. PART NUMBERS for the damper and fuel pump BOSCH 16121178035 available at Pelican Parts, BimmerWorld, Turner Motorsports-all BMW specialty houses IMPORT DIRECT E16078 available at O'Reilly Auto-looks very close to OEM BECK-ARNLEY 152-0253-exact match to OEM Progress on the Z continues to creep along during rare times I am not working, babysitting, taking care of the family needs, or yard work. Thanks again. John-Lugoff, SC
  5. Just beginning to resurrect the rear portion of the fuel system. Working with the great info from this site on the fuel damper. Hopefully we will track one down. Is the OEM pump the way to go for a stock EFI engine or will an aftermarket unit do the job? Huge price differences. O'Reilly offers their IMPORT DIRECT brand that appears similar in size and design with correct size inlet and outlet sizes and 2 terminals. Most of the other aftermarket units seem to be "CAN MAKE IT FIT" varieties with several fittings, rubber cushions, etc. Would it be wise to install a fuel filter between the tank and pump? Any suggestions on an inline filter with 1/2" barbs? What is the best way to do the fuel line to the engine compartment? I am considering going the high PSI 5/16 injection hose or should we go the steel line route? Is there stainless tubing available to combat the modern fuel issues and corrosion? Many new vehicles are using the hard plastic lines now. All suggestions welcome as I begin the cleaning, blasting, painting process on all the fuel pump brackets and mounts. Thanks again for this great resource of info on my Z project, John-Lugoff, SC.
  6. Back to square one with the distributor. After placing the order for the needed parts and waiting a few weeks with no results I contacted the Nissan dealer parts dept. handling the order placed through and got the bad news the parts are discontinued. Why they were still listed on the site, I am not sure. Other parts were clearly listed as discontinued. Here is the list of parts needed. Vacuum advance-#22301-N4200 Plate #22136-N4200 First 2 are must haves. Third part just would be nice to have, Slider-holder cap-#22116-N4200 I will continue to investigate as time permits. Hopefully the Z experts can provide some more clues. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  7. Thanks for the replies. The Beck-Arnley parts are offered through our store's system but as special order only. The pricing is significantly higher than the very generous team member pricing we receive on items stocked in our inventory system. The Rock Auto pricing in this case is a bit better than my team member pricing and the shipping charges are about the same. Also just received a discount code from Rock Auto via e-mail this morning. Think anybody was watching my parts searching from a few days ago? I will be pulling out my credit card and getting the order placed before I go into work. Thanks again. John-Lugoff, SC.
  8. Local radiator repair shops used to be plentiful but getting harder to find. Some of them just specialize in big truck-heavy equipment radiators. I will be needing to do the same for my project. I have heard good reports on gas tank RENU but there are none of those franchises in my area. Good luck, John-Lugoff, SC
  9. Looking for experienced opinions if the Beck-Arnley hydraulic clutch parts-slave, master, hose-are worth the extra money compared to the store brand options. Quality control seems to be a bit slack on some of the chain store branded parts. First hand experience being an assistant manager at one of them. I do not have any previous experience with the Beck-Arnley parts but have seen the name out there with generally higher prices. Just continuing the resurrection project and getting the various systems parts purchased in advance for the project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  10. Thanks for the reply. I guess I am not the only one to have the same issue with parts. It was a pleasant surprise to find the website that covers all the old Datsun vehicles. Some of the part # were clearly marked NO LONGER AVAILABLE but at least you get a valid # for the part. I located and ordered all the parts I believe I will need to reman this distributor. My biggest need will be the technical end of assembling all the advance mechanism parts properly. It looks quite involved but I will dig into my Haynes repair manual as well as print out the info from the Factory Service Manual which I think my wife has downloaded somewhere into our computer a year or so ago. Computer navigation just is not my strong point. Requests for any additional parts or help will be coming as needed. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  11. SUCCESS sort of. I did get the vac advance unit out with additional Blaster and patience. ZED was correct about the ball bearings and plastic cage. Now I will have to search for a new plate assy. Quite a bit of corrosion on that plate and ball bearing areas. Plastic cage is cracked, springs and weights look fine, inside distributor housing looks like new after a quick spray with some brake cleaner. Back to the parts hunt. Enjoying the tear down process on this distributor. Hopefully I can get it properly reassembled if I can locate all the correct parts. Getting ready to go to work soon. Will keep you all updated. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
  12. Continuing the distributor renewal project. I just ordered a vac advance unit #22301-N4200 through and hopefully it will be the correct part. It is coming through Gwinnet Place Nissan in Duluth, GA. I was surprised to see so much detail on that site. I am sure I will be using it again. I am still a bit unsure on how the supercessions go on these parts. Not much info about that. Also according to the diagram, my distributor would be the California version as the contactor appears to be the same as mine. Our local Nissan dealer was clueless and pretty unhelpful with some of my previous inquiries-too old of a car to get parts excuse, even though I had the needed part numbers,-so it was a pleasant surprise to be able to find an easy to navigate website with prices clearly posted and good diagrams. Will need continued help I am sure during this process. Odd that part # on Google search did not get me any legitimate results. Thanks in advance, John-Lugoff, SC.
  13. I may go out to the shop and dig a bit further on that slide part. The vac advance unit and online searching does get a bit frustrating but I am not a very good internet navigator. The Nissan # 22301-N4200 appears to be my correct choice-FED emissions, manual- which crosses over to several aftermarket #, none of which exist on the search in the manufacturer's website or in the parts suppliers' websites, or even worse one of the # comes through as a PCV valve. The vac advance units must be available if Cardone is offering a reman unit or in some cases sending your distributor in to be refurbished. We have some real horror stories at our parts store with us sending customer units in to Cardone, with all the proper paperwork and procedures done, and the part is unable to be located at Cardone and going through a maze of different departments all providing no answers. Personally I never advise any of our customers to go that route even though our corporate office has that as part of their "NEVER SAY NO" marketing policy. The last problem our store had was with a customer doing a numbers matching restoration of a 428 Cobra Jet Mustang and his water pump. Our store manager processed the whole order correctly and he battled through countless phone calls, leaving messages that never got returned, and plenty of lame excuses on the whereabouts of the water pump. Almost 2 months later it did show up at our store with no explanation after getting word they could not find it. The only thing enclosed was a bill for the service and the shipping charge. Both of which were very reasonable. Go figure. I believe we gave the customer the unit for FREE because of the long wait, lack of answers, and the customer's good attitude about the whole mess. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  14. Thanks for the reply. A picture in this case is worth a thousand words. My words often come out wrong. The pins I referred to were for the bottom drive collar and the pin in the reluctor. That process went smoothly. The diagram #6 is listed in some parts look ups as the reluctor and has some specs for California emissions or high altitude applications only. The contactor in my distributor is a bit gummy and grimy. Not sure if a good electrical cleaner would be sufficient or purchase a new one. I do not believe my resurrection project-1978 280Z-has the California emissions. No air pump or Oxygen sensors on this vehicle. I will continue to do some more research on the parts but the vac advance unit seems to be non existent so far in my search. The other question I had was about diagram #13 listed as cap setter. The parts diagram I had lists it as a "slide". Definitely bent in at the top along one edge. Glue or corrosion? Some more cleaning and time will tell. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.
  15. I have a rare day off from work as well as from babysitting grandchildren, so I decided to disassemble a very dirty and a bit rusty 42 year old distributor. Any helpful hints on removing the vac advance unit. Soaking in Blaster, a bit of patience, and also some prayer, all the screws are out, pins pressed out but the vac advance unit is not moving. Repair manual says to slightly angle it to remove it from the advance weights but have not had any success so far. It will be soaking in Blaster overnight and see what happens tomorrow. Also a question on what the manual labels as a "slide". The very thin sheet metal channel that acts as as locator tab for the base plate. The top portion is pushed away from the distributor body-the channel portion is bent. Originally I thought it was corrosion that bent the slide but after a bit of cleaning and poking with a pick, I am not sure if it is corrosion or some type of glue. That is also soaking in some cleaner and will have to investigate further. That portion of the distributor did have some corroded sections. Thanks again for any tips and suggestions on #1 removing the vac advance unit-#2 locating a new advance unit, Merry CHRISTmas, John-Lugoff. SC