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The brake caliper bolt is the one for who wants to restore it properly. And is this a small dish able to be used for tension rod ? You can see the part number is different from the original. 54537-21003 is the original part number , I have 54537- 41L00 . I found I have twenty of them in my stash , too much . These parts are going to someone who can buy a DINO 246 for me . Kats

Thanks Gavin , you’re correct , gauges must be replaced at some point in its life . About the ash tray , yes it has a small handle which is molded in ONE PIECE of the lid , early one is a separate piece from the lid . But I am looking for the answer when it changed. Do you see the steering wheel is not for the Japanese domestic model ? Fairlady Z series has much shorter spokes for the steering wheel , maybe design team consider average Japanese people have short leg , then positioned much forward than the westerners. So the steering wheel must be flat with the horn pad . And horn pad itself has a trumpet, that is from the summer of 1973 , the Japanese regulation required all cars must have the trumpet mark on the horn pad . Also the dash board is later type , and the ignition key looks later type . Here is my 01/1970 Z432 , you will see the difference of the steering wheel. Kats

Hello, As a number of folks have asked about my car in my 5 speed for sale thread I thought I'd start a little build thread. A little over six years ago I found the car in Smithers, B.C. and arranged to buy it. The seller has accumulated a bunch of spares for it as he had been storing it in his garage for a number of years waiting for his son to get old enough to restore the car together. Unfortunately, his son did not care for cars at all- bad for Dad, good for me. Having shipped the spares pallet, he drove HLS30-10714 3 hours to Prince George and met me there. We did the deal and I brought the trove home to Calgary, where I lived at the time. Note the classy exhaust extender he used to keep from gassing himself on the drive there... I got it home and covered it for a few years as work was all consuming and I wasn't ready to begin the project. We moved to Dunmore and got a bigger garage in the bargain. I made good use of the exhaust extender and drove it 3 more hours on the highway to our new place. Painful with a 4 speed and stock engine! Once there, the Datsun moved inside and a year or so later the project began. First up was pulling the drivetrain. Then came removal of everything else and lots of labelling. Then stripping the whole car to bare metal. A little paint stripper, and a lot of paint stripping wheels! After spraying the bare metal with Ospho, I began stitch welding the unibody. The battery tray was in mint condition but as I'm placing the battery in back I removed the tray with a spot weld cutter. Anybody need a clean '71 battery tray? While doing the engine compartment stitch welding I cleaned up the fender wells and firewall. The engine compartment welding is now done and this weekend I got a good start on the interior reinforcements. Got the passenger side floor, seat mounts, and rear bulkhead completed. Also added a pair of stylistic elements to the rear bulkhead.

def a good idea to send extras, no doubt one will be off so a match is easier to accomplish with extras. When I had mine cleaned I too got a report, one was about 10% more flow rate than the rest (they were about 3%-5% the same AFTER cleaning). I did not have any extras at the time to match to. Some of my plugs are a tiny bit darker than others, so maybe that is a factor, but not enough to worry about. One thing you may want to do if you are so inclined, market them (the injectors) so you know which reported flow rate goes with which injector (the will prob have a tag on them). That way for future reference you can read the plugs and see if indeed the color matches the flow rates.

ZH, good idea in sending an extra one. I get your point on the business man thing but I think I can sense a the difference between a guy trying to take my $$ and a guy who provides a valued service to feed his family. Its like that book “Blink” the first 15 second meeting a person gives you a ton of information about them. He’s a legit guy with a passion for injectors....there all sorts of people with odd passions....all the regulars on this forum are excluded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Stroker Diesel crank is back from marine crankshaft! Offset ground to 84.6mm Toyota rod ends 1.8896” Ground main journals to -020” Dynamic balance Ion plasma nitride, straighten and micro polished.

They are pretty nice plugs. I went to several places including Fastenal and nobody had anything other than a typical bolt. So they do look like a pan plug and have a flat flange base with a rubber o-ring. They were like $2.50 each. CO if you need some let me know and I’ll grab them for you. I need to reduce my beer tax I have going with you so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It got a bid. $8,000. USD, I assume.

Common misconception I believe. All the trans I've looked at have a 4th gear pair, just like any other gear. The only thing that is 'special' about the 4th gear set is that its ratio acts as a modifier to all the other gear set raw tooth pair ratios, since the drive power goes through the 4th gear set first, for all gears, all the time. It's only a matter of which of the lock up hubs (on each gear set) is engaged to the main shaft that determines the power path. The counter shaft is engaged and spinning all the time, and since all if its gears are engaged to the gears on the main shaft, THEY are spinning all the time too (except 5th), though they may all be free from the main shaft (if in neutral) or any one of them is engaged (and only one!), which then drives the main shaft at that gears ratio. The confusion comes because for 4th, it's special because when its main shaft gear is locked to the mainshaft, power goes straight through the main shaft WITHOUT first going down to the counter shaft (at the 4th gear ratio) then back up to the main shaft (through that gear's ratio) through the selected gear set. That's why its ratio is automatically 1:1 no matter what the 4th gear tooth ratio is. Hope that's clear as 25 year old GL-4 fluid.....

Yes, stick the probes to the terminals firmly with both hands

Ha, I've been watching his channel because of his Skyline content. A fellow Australian :).

https://zcardepot.com/collections/exhaust/products/exhaust-manifold-air-smog-pipe-plug-240z-260z They sell plugs here.

That is correct. I have since corrected my post. Thanks Zed Head, had to think about that one for a minute. Still struggling with memory these days.

rcb is right, it just needs to close when warm. It has a heater inside it. If it's open at room temperature that's good. Apply 12 volts to the terminals and it should close in a few minutes. But it's not a vacuum leak if it doesn't close, it's a throttle blade bypass. Like opening up your idle speed screw.

He is a Z enthusiast. Plus a racer, plus a engine builder, plus hobby guy. Super nice.

It doesn't need to open much to function properly. Only needed for cold start op's. I would be more concerned if it wasn't closing all the way after the car is up to operating temps. If it doesn't close it will increases idle

Pic's added : 1 Bosch, and two Japanese with different numbers on them. They are all about half way open. I really never looked into how to test them. I am not sure what the difference would be in the different models. What was your statement reference about it being broken? The FSM shows the test is with power not just temp. did you try this test? Looks like powered heat closes it, and ambient temp opens it but it does not say how much.

Thanks for the compliments! Challenging to keep raising the bar on the quality of work, and fun when the outcome meets or exceeds my expectations. Makes it more tolerable to put in all of the hours.

Hello everyone, I just purchased my high school dream car. A 1976 Datson 280Z. It will need restored. Hope to have it on the road next year!

Starting cam mock up. I’m using the bonk .535 cam.

The T means "economy" product. There a lots of T products from Standard. I don't see it on Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224 The selection is much smaller than it used to be. No BWD either.

If I remember right a set of the Standard FJ707T was as cheap as having mine sent off and cleaned. That was a pain in the rectum trying to get info on injectors in 2011 when I built the 2.8 motor. You'll see Bigfoot before you get straight, consistent data. Those FJ3s on ebay were a popular choice back then. Fastwoman had them and liked them too. She was quite picky, OCD-ish, I miss her participation on here.

Definitely looks like fun. The not-so-hot cars can be driven without so much worry. Here's another new thing. D-Brinkworth flares. Never heard of them either. https://www.facebook.com/DBrinkworthFlares

The fact that the car is in Canada means that a prospective local buyer may spend more here as there will be no importation costs or hassles. A local buyer will be hard pressed to find a good 240 for sale anywhere local. That being said, you're absolutely correct Zed, the car has definite flaws. They are at least being honest in showing them in the pics.

Interesting. Comments are funny. It has an R180 diff. And an ECU Masters engine control. Never heard of them but they look like a reasonable engine management option. New knowledge. https://ecumasterusa.com/

Switch? The document Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf refers to an O-ring for the "reverse checking assembly". Is that what you mean? It is a device in the later 5 speed to help prevent hitting reverse when shifting back from 5th to 4th. The O-ring location is shown in the second page in the Transmission shift control drawing under code 31341F. The reverse checking assembly is code 32180. See also photos.

oh wowowowow thats a parts party right there ^^^, my favorite kind of party. ?

Hi , the green Z432 was ( still is ? ) for sale at 2150 0000 JPY when I heard about it . Lack of some original parts , and need to have proper size tires for stock appearances . Kats

Thanks, it looks a lot different than that now. At Wheee's recommendation I started a build thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63609-71-240z-project/

Yes. As per the title you gave the thread: "Meanwhile, a Z432R sells for $805k in Japan" There's a big, big difference in content, rarity and value between a 432 and a 432-R, so I think it worth making it clear all the way through when writing about them, lest people get the wrong end of the stick. I've already seen it happening. Edited to add: There was no model variant-specific 432-R badging. It was badged the same as the 432 model.

Engine all in, oil pressure good, ready to fire up next week.

Sorry leadfoot is painful, all day for Just a few minutes of racing. No run off areas and a fun stone bridge if you make a mistake, happy to spectate at that event. Was going to try to get it ready for the festival at taupo in Mid Jan but not going to make it. Will be at the GTR festival. More progress today New plugs, new oil cooler arrived and rest of carbs fitted. Belts fitted etc

Engine in and clutch done, link from sump to gearbox fitted and manifolds and carbs fitted. New engine mounts. Note you need specific 240k ones, hard to find and very expensive compared to 240Z. That sump which is actually for a Hakosuka, requires cross member modification, slight block grinding and exhaust manifold modification. Will also need a new sway bar, so its not a direct bolt up for a 240k. Getting closer, might be ready for start up in a few days.

Still a few parts to fit, the new OS Giken twin plate clutch and we had to get the right oil pump spindle. Turns out the Kamarei one only works with their special oil pump. More pics soon.

Cheers Flauski, yeah I remember that. Great you have another car. Well a few delays as my order from the Z store got nicely sent to Malta rather than NZ. Close, not! In the meantime got the sump modified, cross member modified and new drive pulley. Heres some pics

Interesting that someone would go the effort and expense of stamping out the "close to original" hubcaps and then screw up the paint. It would be like forging a blonde haired version of daVinci's Mona Lisa painting and hoping no one would notice. Dennis

I did a quick grey scale comparison of cars in sunlight and hopefully this tool may be helpful in decoding. It makes me think the dealer parking lot photo in post #10 above is Orange.