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mikec(nz)

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About mikec(nz)

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    New Zealand

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    300zx

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  1. Yeah that's the cool thing about New Zealand(NZ) miles away from anywhere but some real talented motorsport people. Bumped into a guy just the road last week, he had a full CNC machine just in his shed for afternoons hobby work. Kelford Cams is also in NZ some of the top cams in the world. My head guy Kevin Bann worked for them for years. Now he has his own business Horsepower Heads, the cams are being worked on at the moment by Kelford Cams. There are five dynos within 20 minutes of me, three of them are dynapacks (also made in NZ) and one is my brothers LOL. We have two race tracks within 2 hours drive and it goes up to four if you want to drive another hour or two. We have rules that provided your race car is safe and can pass a warrant of fitness you can drive it on the road. I think I should stop now :) before I start raving on about Bruce McLaren and John Britton etc
  2. Head Work Done Weld combustion chambers and Straighten head and re machine front and back. Then Weld injector holesand CNC porting 1head Then from Kevin Bann - Horsepower heads - "Write intake and exhaust programs to suit the build specification. The intake port is sized to 'choke' at 9000 rpm and provide peak torque at around 6000 rpm. I had to move and skew each intake program individually to line up with existing manifold. A lot of re-welding and re thinking the chamber because of the different chamber roof heights between this head and the old head. I ended up buying deeper valve seat inserts and lowering the chamber roof to gain compression while retaining flow past the valve. This will keep a stronger deck in the head as not so much needs machining off it versus keeping stock valve height." Then Supply 12 extra deep valve seat inserts, machine and fit CNC machine valve seats and Surface grind head 1.6mm Then we found the P90A head had hydraluic lifters which you can no longer source. So bugger, but bought some inserts and fitted the stock solid lifters. Just got in some 3.5mm lash caps from Kameria and now we can get the final cam grind done. Heads should now be done in a couple of weeks, Bugger my engine builder is in holiday in Europe. We decided to fit the 260Z stub axles while waiting as they are a weak point. Supposed to bolt straigh in! Well maybe for the 240Z but definately not for the 240K. Well thats another story. Specs are 228cfm at .550" lift - Chambers are 38cc - compression hopefully around 11:1
  3. Just some pics, we have done some major head work which will discussed soon. Also upgrading the rear stub axles to 260z. More info soon.
  4. Pistons here, crank arrives Wednesday, rods not far away, new pics shortly.😀
  5. Will do, just waiting patiently (not really) for the new crank, rods and piston from Kameari. Unfortunately Christmas has delayed things. But will post pics as soon as they arrive.
  6. Bought a NOS head from this site, thanks so much Garrett (inline6), its a P90 so will require a bit of work to get high compression but great place to start. Managed to buy NOS lifters and related parts from Nissan Japan and some Valves and retainers from Kamaeri. And i turns out the Hakosuka sump fits the Kenmeri, so got one of those with a kit that ties into the gearbox. But looking at the existing crank and rods and doing some maths, looks like will they will have to replaced. Can't bore the new block too much so going to limited a bit in capacity 87mm = 2960, but it should be able to rev. So the head is off to Horsepower heads (Kevin Bann ex Kelford Cams) who is starting on the port work. This build is going to take a bt longer than planned but the end result is going to be better than expected, so will be updating shortly.
  7. Well the plan was to just a simple freshen up, but that is not going to work. Engine out and inspected. The block was already bored to around 89mm so after sonic checking, we could not even get a hone, the leaking headgasket has scoured the bores. So luckily found a fresh unmolested block (thanks Don - who sold me the car for letting me have one out of his collection). This is currently off being linebored and we are going to reuse the deisel crank and 260Z rods as they are in good shape. We are going to put in forged pistons, but waiting on some calcs before deciding how much to bore as we will be running around 10:1 compression. I run the car on Av-gas (aviation full 100octane) so there is no reason to not up the compression. The old sump is looking a bit sad as it has been modified a lot of times and the exhaust headers are rusted out from running the leaded gas (and their ten years age). So had my first delivery from Japan. new exhaust manifold, new clutch and had the starter motor and alternator rebuilt. Next .... finding a head and .....
  8. Oh well I suppose it had to happen sooner or later. The engine I got with the car which was a bit 2nd hand decided to give up at the recent GTR festival. Only got two laps before it started overheating. Not too bad after 3 years hard racing. Diagnosis blown head gasket. We expected that as it had been showing signs and we just keep patching it up. So we decided new head gasket and maybe rings/bearings ...... but turns out it is too far overbored to give it even a hone and the head is to soft to last much longer - so time for a new engine. Happy to post pics etc as we do it - but only if there is interest. Most online forums are dead these days and I can't be bothered with facebook. So post here if you want to see pics of the engine build - heres a teaser
  9. red light - correct for low oil pressure. red button horn (we had to retrofit as aftermarket wheel did not have horn, but needs it for road registartion). Starts off the key like normal.
  10. Sick of guages not working and no rev counter (because we upgraded to MSD) so fitted whole new dash. Lot more work than planned but finally all done and working properly.
  11. The car has always been unhappy on cool down lap, as the heat soak from the manifolds often causes it to stall. So Dale from Coastline Automotive fabricated me a new heat shield. So this is what Bob Sharp did with the 240Z back in the day So I suppose that makes it a period correct part We got an alumium one folded up and HPC coated (thanks high performance coatings Akld) Coated the underside with heat resistant material (the headers are already wrapped in cloth) And the finished result Took all to the track and she ran perfectly (well almost it seems the engine may be a getting a bit tired after 30+ hours racing - so next job ......) well actually next job is a few gauges - will post that shortly when finished.
  12. So the good news is the car has been behaving so gave it some new boots Ordered some Wantanabe 15 x 9.5" for the back to fill out the guards. Now I wont bore you with all the dramas of getting that right (miscommunication resulted in wrong hole spacing) and it seems Wantanabe are quite difficult to deal with and I was not 100% happy with the quality of the wheels as the material seems weak as my wheel nuts seem to be wearing into it. So thanks to arrow wheels we got steel inserts, corrected stud spacing and them painted to all match. Also fitted Hoosier cross ply race tyres for that 'old school - period correct look" Much better stance and look now. Running 245/45 x 15 hoosiers all round on 8.5 x 15 rims front and 9.5 x 15 rims rear. The Wantanabe centre caps did not fit the rears and kept falling out the fronts so we made our own.
  13. So next race day - off again with my new diff ratio and we had decided to lower the car a few inches as well However did not really get much of a chance to find out how the diff went as first lap of practice I lost 2nd gear, there was a strannge whirrying sound. No worries most said sounded like a shift rod had come off. Hmmm - no Those bits look important So rebuilt an early Datsun Skyline shortnose 71C box with a L6 bell housing (thanks Andy for the box). You can see below the old 71B vs the 71C in this picture and the internals are so much bigger and stronger. Did not quite fit as the was about 20-30mm diff in the rear gearbox mount, but other than that it bolted up. The L6 bell housing needed a minor bit of machining to fit the 71C internals. We also Tig welded front housing, helicoiled 2x damaged threads. fitted new bearing Kit H/Duty and synchros rings and fitted input shaft dog set, 3rd/4th selector fork, 3rd/4th selector keys, 3rd/4th outer shift hub, 1st/2nd selector fork.
  14. Well the Ken Meri has seen a bit of racing and with that comes a bit of wear and tear (or in laymans terms breaking stuff) Seems that we might have strained the old diff. I had put a new Quaife LSD in it but left the original crown and pinion. Well last race of the day. We were doing handicap standing start. I got beaten off the line by a dirty of Capri, but then the race was red flagged so we started all over again. MIght have given it a bit more power of the line doing the launch as it made horrible noise and I quickly pulled over and it was making more horrible noises. Thought I had snapped a wheel stubb again, but no that was not it. Yup those bits should be somewhere else Hmmm that looks a bit munted Well even I know that dont look right So we fitted the crown and pinion out of a Subaru R180 diff (quite a rare version out of 300hp Imprezza I think) - its a 4.44 ratio and much stronger. We had to make a thin spacer plate and use the larger bolts, but other than that pretty much a straight swap. The good news was that the Quaife LSD was sweet. But they have a lifetime guarantee supposedly so must be pretty strong. So all good and off to the track again.
  15. Stock z32 brakes dont last long on the track. Willwood if on a budget, AP/Brembo if not. Rim will determine diameter but suggest rotor thickness and pad size is more important
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