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Hey Everyone, Let me introduce myself. My name is Craig , I live In Austin, TX. I have restored cars over the years but this is my first Z. I have been a member since last October 2018. I recently purchased a 1973 240z CA/AZ (one owner car) that's been hibernating for 25 years in a AZ. garage. I am working on waking it up. She is at a shop in Austin waiting to be worked on now. The previous owner started the car and it made a ticking noise, so they turned it off right away. I plan to keep it near stock and restore over time. It is presently Blue, I plan on taking it back to its original color Red 110. Right now I just want to get the car road worthy - I am going crazy waiting to drive it. I have been reading here a lot and educating myself and will continue to - so thanks for the help now and in the future.

Thanks Patcon. I was just pointing out that the answer to the problem was there over a month ago. I thought I might get a "haha" back. Maybe the realization was irritating. "Haterade" was off-track, and a mistake. That's the main problem with the internet, it records everything. Easy to go back and see what's what. Anyway, another Z survives...

When I was in Japan a few weeks ago, I visited many temples and shrines with the family. Not only are these places beautiful and historic, they have a wonderful art called Goshuin. The Goshuin is available to anyone with the proper book and willingness to spend the time to wait for a monk or temple representative to create. Each temple/shrine has their own Goshuin design and the intent is to prove that you've paid a visit. The artwork is a combination of a red stamp and handwritten calligraphy. You can read more about Goshuin here: https://livejapan.com/en/in-tokyo/in-pref-tokyo/in-tokyo_train_station/article-a0002402/ Anyway, the reason for my post isn't to inform you about Goshuin, but, I wanted to share some Z car logo's inspired by Goshuin. I had some fun today making a digital version of our logo with the Kanji symbols Pride, Performance, Protect (they didn't seem to have preservation). I'll be looking more into calligraphy in the future because it was very inspiring. Here's my first crack at a digital version using filters and Kanji symbols I found on the Internet.

That's unfortunate, as you just blocked one of the more helpful and intuitive people on the forum

My advice would be to tread very carefully. Kanji has subtleties and variations which make it very difficult to transliterate from different languages and ideally you'd want a native speaker/writer looking over your shoulder to help you avoid falling into any elephant traps. You don't want to get tattoos of anything until you've had second, third, fourth and more opinions on it... In the meantime, here's a bit of food for thought: Your 'Pride' might be best expressed as 誇り ('Hokori'). The Kanji you have chosen for 'Performance' ('En') is more appropriate to a theatrical performance (it's a link to 'skill'). As you are referring to the performance of a car, I would recommend 走り ('Hashiri') or 高性能 ('Koseinoh') as they are appropriate to a mechanical object, and to movement. For 'Protect'/protection it might be better to start off with a different English word. Since I'm guessing the sense you want to evoke is one of looking after, preserving and curating, I would recommend 保護 ('Hogo'), but there might be a better phrase (which would mean a combination of two or three Kanji). You smaller 車古団 ( 'Shakodan') is OK, but 古車団 ('Koshadan') might be an improvement? It's just a touch more sophisticated. I don't want to put @kats on the spot (I'm sure he's very busy) but I'd trust his opinion on this kind of thing much more than mine...

Yes, it's actually getting pretty exciting here. It would definitely look more complete with the fenders and hood, but I prefer to put those on last. They just kind of get in the way. I should be able to get the exhaust manifold ceramic coated this week, then I will get back to the engine work. I am hoping to have it running in early May. My wife will be gone for the first weekend in May so should be able to get a lot done at that time. Also, we are looking at bringing it out to ZCON in Branson. That should be fun. Thanks, looks even better in person. My camera is sub-par.

Looks like a lonely "76 280Z. Reptoid to the rescue!

I understand all of that and have read every post in the thread but I also understand the limitations of forums like this for conveying emotion. I am glad you got it figured out

Thanks guys. Problem solved. I tightned both nuts and the reinsert the spacer.

Pat, he's been harassing me throughout this whole thread and has not been very helpful at all. I tried to end this thread on a positive note, despite that fact that it got very, very sideways because of my ignorance. I thanked everyone for their help and closed out the thread nice and clean. But ZH just had to come back and make unnecessary comments and steer the thread straight into a wall. He didn't need to enter those last comments, but like he said..... he just couldn't resist. And then when he gets some push-back from me, he gets upset. Seems like he can dish it out but can't take it in return. So I was the bigger man and took down my comments because I can see that it upset him and he did not find it funny. But then he just keeps on going, trying to rile up a confrontation. Very petty and has absolutely nothing to do with fixing cars. Some people don't know when to quit. So again...... I'm going to try and close this thread out on a positive note and say thank you to everyone for their help and insights, I truly appreciate it. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys once I get into repairing / restoring other parts of this car. Thanks to you all, another old Z is back on the road and I'm enjoying having a Z car back in my garage after a long 27 year wait. Thank you!

And if you can find the Kanji for "Always check under the carpet for rust"........? Dennis

That might make a really cool shirt for the store ?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/04/creating-the-perfect-240z/

Those are the drug bins.

Yep, just did a valve job and during the process ended up with two sets Don't plan on needing it any time soon. It will end up in the storage shed never to be found when needed. Let me know where to send it

Yes I installed them correctly according to the diagram. That's how I found this forum in the first place. ? I tried both set of new clips and old clips, to no avail. Interestingly I just removed the passenger size cylinder. It was a early style cylinder instead of a late style. And despite everything in that wheel being seized solid, the old wheel cylinder slide way more easily in the slot. Looking at them, the shoulder of the groove and the groove itself are not the same shape at all. I'll bring them to my machinist father, so he can try to make them fit. I'll report back. So far I assume the late cylinder don't fit on my early plates.

OK guys.... one last time. All good threads must come to an end.... even though this thread was not so good, it's time has come. The issue is fixed and DaveWM gets the kudos for figuring it out. (Dave "Z Oracle")! ?? Thank you for your methodical approach and patience while this got sorted out. The issue was the cable from the bullet connectors to the Water Temperature Sensor connector. (not the WTS itself). A $6 replacement cable from AutoZone fixed the issue and the car is running better than ever! Thanks again everyone for your help! Much appreciated and I'll reach out next time I need expert advice!

Hello All, sorry for the late response. I was away from the internet and emails for most of three day Easter holiday with family so I am just getting caught up to a flurry of activity here. Issues of the last few days: Oil in the strut housing around the insert is always a good idea but it does not really matter what type oil it is. The benefits are twofold, although one is real world and the other a bit more theoretical. As mentioned in posts above, some type of oil between the raw steel inside of the strut tube and the outside of the insert can reduce or eliminate the chance of rust forming between the two and making it very difficult to remove the strut insert from the housing many years down the road if any service or replacement is ever needed. Any kind of spare oil will do just fine so leftover used engine oil, any gear or motor oil left at the bottom of an open bottle, etc. will do just fine. Anything to fill the void so that water or moist air cannot accumulate and start to rust the internal surfaces. I do not recommend anti-freeze as it is water based and will very likely start to rust and make insert removal much more difficult. The more theoretical benefit is potentially improved from inside to outside heat transfer but honestly unless you are trying to race off-road with extreme sustained piston speeds and heat generation, there is no need for cooling the insert for its own function. When we had the KONI Challenge road racing series, we found that there was more wheel well heat generated from the brakes and hubs that might spread into the strut than there was heat inside the strut that needed to dissipate out. Regarding the fitment concern on Nils’ front struts, I think there may be an internal lip or edge that it is catching on and not letting it drop all the way to the bottom. These inserts are exact dimensional matches to the earliest KONI 86 series red strut inserts that were offered from the beginning. I checked old ‘70s KONI catalogs that simply state “1970-1974”so there was no exclusion for super early production strut housings or a later start-up date. I think Nils’ situation is an anomaly and exception and not the rule so they can get a deeper look on a case by case basis. If someone does have an issue, please let Joseph or KONI know.

Hello 718Miata: Wecome to the Z Car community. Take that Datsun 240Z out for a long drive and chances are good that you'll stay in the Z Car Community for a long time. I really can’t believe anyone would let that 240Z go for less than $25K. Does it have title problems?, Floors completely rusted out? Was previous owner high on drugs? Were there no Dealers at that Auction? This is the 50th Anniversary of the “Z Car”.. and 240Z’s are HOT in the market NOW. There is a discussion thread on the this forum seeking information about how/where to find 240Z’s for sale. Looking only at the “Beauty Shots” - and projecting them onto areas we can not see - - if the undercarriage looks as good… It’s easily a $25K to $30K+ sale on BringATrailer. Get it up on a lift and get clear pictures of the floorboards/framerails and entire suspension - and you’ll get a better evaluation of its current market value from the group here.

go to the XenonZcar.com site and download the Factory Service Manuals. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html

Kats, That photo matches closely with the "Nissan News" photo of the Beverly Hilton event. So it was silver! Also, from Datsun Dealer Bulletin NS-69-008, Dated October 16, 1969, Robert O. Link; Auto Shows scheduled; Boston October 25 - November 1, 1969 Los Angeles October 31 - November 9, 1969 San Francisco November 4 - 9, 1969 Detroit November 15 - 23, 1969 That's a great photo, thanks!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RETRO-CLASSIC-VINTAGE-RACING-BUCKET-SEATS-BLACK-PVC-MICROSUEDE-W-SLIDERS-PAIR/123461825398?hash=item1cbee5f376:g:39cAAOSwQGhbIB69:sc:UPSGround!48083!US!-1

Hi Blue , did I post this before ? Kats

Got the new starter in and put on the rear bumper. Rear over riders are just on loosely for now. Can't remember if @jayhawk gave me the over rider rubber for the front or back, so will need to check through my boxes. Got the vinyl on around the window frame along with the door weatherstripping on both sides, so should have the windshield in by next weekend. Also started cleaning up the fuel tank.

Sorry, couldn't resist. One last dig...

So when the temp sensor input is actually making it to the ECU, how does it run? How do the plugs look? I'm a little concerned about the pic you posted of the insides of the AFM. Since you have a good report with the PO's mechanic, can you (did you) ask him if he adjusted the AFM to try to lean things out?

MZR’s getting plenty of attention these days, this one from the Top Gear site with brief driving impressions. The Z’s 50th anniversary probably helps their marketing: https://www.topgear.com/car-news/tgs-guide-japan/driving-wonderful-mzr-roadsports-datsun-240z#1

I think it's the reverse switch. Looks like they might be available out on the internet. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-case/5-speed/23 https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-switch-rev-lamp~32005-k1000.html

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself. Probably have to remove it and see. Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

Excellent!! So maybe all of the fuel pressure stuff was a red herring caused by questionable test equipment and procedures? In any event it reinforces the belief that it just looks like most other old 280Z's that are running either really rich or really lean because of a whole bunch of interrelated issues like dirty connectors, improperly placed connectors, and vacuum leaks. So you found the first, highest priority of those, but there are probably others of lower contribution and impact. The remaining issues are probably what the previous owner's mechanic was chasing to get it to pass smog.

Took a shot of what I had not bolted down: Mikuni Solex from Datsun Comp-- 50's / 3 Sets of 44's , 1 Set NOS / From Mikuni America, 44's and 40's / Webers 45's, 42's, (4)Sets of 40's / IDAL 3C 40's / 1 Mechanical Fuel Injection set up (Hillborn type) From a 2.5 liter hydroplane. I know a little bit about trips...........

Got all the glass in and rear bumper. Was able to drive it for the first time. Drove straight as an arrow. Now to have the front valance painted, install front bumper and reassemble the balance of the interior. I also have a bad spot in my fuse block and am go8ng to get the MSA fuse box.

thx Jeff!