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Working on German hardware today..

On the question of using LED's for the license plate, I've done it. These bulbs from Superbrite are a direct fit. 2 - 67-CW12-G: Cool White (license Plate)

If @Diseazd liked tanks.

Ferg I had to ask the community about that one, I wasn't positive it was a Z. Gives you that warm fuzzy feeling seeing your car on a money management commercial, makes me think I finally made a good decision.

Actually it was at least 5 hours later when I checked. Wish I could have taken a peak. Would have been right in my neighborhood.

Depends on the kids. My two oldest have seen us sacrifice for them their whole lives and they get it. The younger ones have had it easier and it is harder to convince them that they have it pretty good. Still trying...

Preaching to the choir ramses...

That pan has internal baffles allowing oil to be sucked up into the engine even when the car is traversing a hard corner. I have had one in my street and race car for over 15 years. My dad ruined a nearly new Cadillac engine attempting to get a glider airborne - race down the runway, not fast enough, hard left turn, fast down the runway, over and over again. The dealer says he never had an engine fail so quickly after purchase.

Those tanks must be how you know so much about car restoration and general "fix it" knowledge... I can't wait to see that green color sprayed and shining in the sun! Mine is a dark green, and the sun really makes it pop with some hues of blue! Z's look great in dark green

Consider renting a truck and trailer in SoCal and hauling it back. It's not as much fun as driving a Z, but if something breaks down, the rental company has to fix it. Penske and Budget are better options than U-Haul IMHO.

Well, I wasn’t 100% sure either but the front of the car made me think it had to be. I really believe in the coming years these cars will become highly collectible. Why? He’s my rational. 1. They’re beautiful by almost any standard. 2. They’ve become difficult to find and when they were cheap to obtain and modify 15-20 yrs ago many were ratted out, leaving the well sort of dry 3. They’re unique and were quality built cars from the get go. Unlike a Fiat or MG etc. The Z’s were well made cars that started a revolution in the industry. Recap...Beautiful, Unique, Reliable, Affordable, Nostalgic. What other cars fit those adjectives like a Z? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now that's what I call a shop!! Bitch'n!

I knew I made a good decision on July 20, 1973 when I bought my 73 240Z brand new off the showroom floor! That 1973 car was replaced in 1991 with a 71 240Z. I've been a very happy 240Z owner now for 46 years straight. My good decision feeling is based on the fun of driving the car!

Boogie nights

Subliminal advertising in our favor! I want to believe that's a 260 or 75 280. Not that I'm selling, but my asking price just went waaay up! ?

You guessed the right inspiration for that.

Was it that transparent? OK, I'll stop. Captain out!

another thing to read up on in the FSM is the EGR (not sure what years and what model had it), any way study up on that as well, it can cause a lot of issues with rough idle esp when the engine is cold. I don't think it would be a rich run problem, but often times there is one problem masking another. Just work you list, check them off, and then study the EGR and test it if you still have idle issues when done with the list. Just did not want to forget that one. Deleting it is often done, but I would not recommend that, I have heard CA is very on top of illegal modifications. Besides IHMO a working EGR is not a performance robbing system anyway, if anything can help from what I have read.

You can use points to drive an MSD or Crane electronic ignition. And there's always Pertronix, they have a better ignition module that gives high energy spark, the Pertronix Ignitor II. Many options. Not surprised that you found a broken distributor. Most of us have.

Only responding to what you wrote. Good luck.

The idle air bypass screw is under the rubber plug on the side of the AFM. It is used to lean out the idle mixture by letting air past the AFM vane. In later years Nissan put a solid cap over that screw so it couldn't be adjusted. But 1976 still made it easy. It's a fairly easy and common adjustment for idle. Not sure I'd read too much in to it for your year. Didn't realize that the car was not driveable. You said that it smoked, and died, but it seemed like it was repeatable after eventually restarting. Now you say it's "not running!"? Anyway, good luck and don't expect a miracle cure. You'll probably have to check a lot of things that check out just fine before you get to the one that isn't. "The car has not been running much at all for 2.5 months, I drove it a whopping total of 4 times....... mostly neighborhood drives less than 10-15 miles aside from the 75 miles drive home after initially purchasing it. I have not had a chance to beat on it, I would like to really drive it.... BUT IT'S NOT RUNNING!"

Yes, just post in the group. Be sure to have a photo to get attention as most skip posts without pics.

Very nice! That's my new desktop back ground.

_.-"""-, .' ..::. `\ / .::' `'` / / .::' .--.=; | ::' / C ..\ | :: | \ _.) \ ':| / \ '-, \./ \)\) `-| );/ 4cliff '--'-' _ _ | | | | __| | __ _| |_ ___ _ _ _ __ / _` |/ _` | __/ __| | | | '_ \ | (_| | (_| | |_\__ \ |_| | | | | \__,_|\__,_|\__|___/\__,_|_| |_|

Just watched the vids and my money is still on ignition. That ignition coil looks like the original . I was go to fuel last . The fact that it happened kind of all the sudden, I would think ignition.

As to color of light unit, I'm also in the camp of same as the rear finisher. I believe the metal inserts in the lights are intended as a diffuser for the light and avoid a light "hot spot" on the license plate as well as diffuse some of the heat from the bulb away from the lens.

Just saw a commercial while sitting in my hotel. Has a 280z on an add as a guys dream car for $39,995. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a close custom mix. More metallic and a tad lighter.

The front end work is complete: Tokico Illumina struts, Apex Engineered front crossmember, tie rods and steering knuckles, Arizona Z car aluminum oil pan, TTT tension rods, MSA anti away bar, rebuilt steering rack, Z Car Depot splash guard, powder coated stock control arms, strut housings and brake dust shields. Come to think of it, that was a lot of stuff! All the components went together well (with the exception of the stock control arms which had to be "shaved" at the back so as to go properly into the new crossmember) although they're all from different companies and we were able to align the car without any problems.

You mentioned fuel and I don't wan to muddy things up but you might consider a bottle of fuel treatment in case you got some water in the last fill up. With the help you already have, you should be able to get this sorted. Just keep trying what they ask and feed the results back.

Ah, Phoebe Cates

........and there is absolutely nothing in the Universe nuttier than a squirrel’s turd! Cliff, I hope you never leave this site ?

My Dad told me when he was younger somehow or another they put plugs in the exhaust and made fireballs come out the pipes. My Dad bullshits me a lot though. Pretty funny now that he's 80 and nuttier than a squirrel's turd.

Perfect. That is exactly what I am looking for. So currently I have power to the yellow/red wire but nothing coming in from the white/red, so that will be my task today to find out why that doesn't have power. FYI, I got it started yesterday!!!! I had to switch back to the old points dizzy and I was using the wrong coil and no ballast resistor, but it starts!!! Not sure if I will continue to mess with the electronic one I have at the moment as I pulled it apart and there is a lot of rust down in the bottom and the magnet is in 10 bits. I may have to look for a new refurbished one, or look for an alternative.

Movie - The Van - 1977

Yes the pump is the Jidosha Kiki.

Thank you for your inquiry. The post is updated to reflect it

During my refurbishment, the 'Dupli-Color HPW-102 Graphite' was used on the tail finisher, grill and original wheel covers. Once dry, it looked like it had too much metal flake, so it was covered with a light coat of medium 'Matt Finish', also 'Dupli-Color'. Turned out great, if I do say so myself. Bonzi Lon