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Depends .... If this looks like fun, then s30 ... If this looks like fun, then z32 ....

It is a good example of how these cars are regulary upgraded with more modern wheels, tires, springs, bushings, etc. that many people use today. Each of those steps takes some compliance out of the suspension's motion and sharpens the feedback up to the driver and passenger. These cars will normally use a slightly higher initial rebound damping adjustment setting than will a truly stock car with softer springs, taller sidewall tires, etc. might. The stock cars will normally be adjusted to at or near the full soft adjustment setting and the modified car will likely have a higher initial setting however it will rarely be even halfway into the full available adjustment range. This helps show that the new KONI Sport option meets its goal to cover a broad range of enthusiast Z-cars, whether fully stock, upgraded with modern parts but still needing a very streetable characteristic, or for even more aggressive cars for autocross. track days, etc.. If we had fixed damper valving with no damping adjustment to help work with a range of stock or upgraded performance parts, then there would be greater concern about needing multiple strut part numbers to cover the range of cars. Being adjustable lets the car owner match to his own upgrades, handling and ride preferences, local road conditions, weekend competition goals if any, and also compensate for long term wear.

I don't see how your car would be the perfect choice, you've large wheels, small tyre profile, hard bushings everywhere and used springs.

Safari Gold......great color choice!

Thanks for replying, Two things, First the colour. Actually, it is very close to the colour that was originally on it. It was definitely not yellow. As for the damage, this is embarrassing for me. I simply did not notice it until I pulled up my own ad and saw the photo, full screen size. Pretty hard to miss, one would think. But I've had this thing hanging up on my garage wall for several years, then I brought it down and took the picture, and just never noticed it. In fairness, The dent is not as pronounced as it appears in this picture. In any case, I'm open to offers.

They missed the picture of an 8 track included in the sale. It was in the dash:

Zed Head, The pic you posted from MSA is one of the biggest contributors to the problems with the fusible link locations for 77. This diagram is wrong for the 77-78: I don't know where it started, but it probably started from the FSM wiring diagram for 1977. Nissan (seemingly) tried to lay the components out on the wiring diagrams kinds-sorta in the same positions they are located on the car. Problem is they screwed up the position of the black link. On the factory wiring diagram in the manual, it has the black link on the fender side back position near the firewall. But on the 77 car (I myself personally verified with a meter) that the black link should be on the fender side FRONT near the headlight. So Nissan never really said "This diagram correctly locates the link positions on the car", but it sure can be assumed that's the case. Problem is.... It's wrong. And others (like MSA) have been propagating that incorrect assumption ever since.

I just saw that in his other thread, but it's not in any of the posts before I asked. And I don't think it's a sig I think that he types int in if he wants to. And it's not in any of his posts above this one except for the very last one before yours. Just arguing minutiae.

wal280z in his signature line too

@SteveJ - just to be clear - it appears as though someone may have mixed up files for that site. This snip appears to be for a 1978 model, when Nissan relocated the EFI Relay from inside the cabin (75-77) to the engine compartment (78-beyond to ??) I have uploaded the scan of the diagram from the back of my 1977 FSM that I used to create the colored version. It is now in the download section.

I thought the wiring diagram at the back of the 77 pdf was incorrect. It shows the black link in the rear fusible link houder. It makes sense that the black link (1.25) would be in the front holder for the fuse block. Ps. Captain, Those link holders look new. Very nice. It's appears to be confussing for Courtesy Nissan as well. I quoted my build date and VIN number, and they sent the set in the photos.

Yes! It's very nice...

Read @ajmcforester post below for some good info.

I got a Japanese friend that lives in Hiroshima. I’ll see if he can translate for ya! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 77 manual is where I found the differences, and the carpartsmanual website. If you look in the 1977 pdf in the download section here you can find the description of the different colors on page 501 or section BE-6. They are different to the wiring diagram in the back on page 680. The parts list in carpartsmanual has two descriptions. 1st. (Pos 5& 6) http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/wiring/engine-room-(from-aug-76) 2nd. (Pos 18 & 19) http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/electric-unit-switch/section-1/280z

That's a very nice looking car and looks to be an excellent value. The ZX series is very much under-appreciated.

I dug into the 280 fusible link stuff a little while ago and here's what I determined. First, what the FSM's say... The 75 FSM shows two fusible links and says they are black and green. The 76 FSM shows four fusible links and says they include three different sizes of links (black, brown, and green). The 77 and 78 FSMs shows four fusible links and says they include two different sizes of links (black and brown). Note that the above links are the ones bolted to the passenger fender in the little square boxes with the white plastic caps. There is another one (or two in the case of 78) fusible link that comes directly off the battery and is specific to the EFI system. That additional link (or two) is outside the scope of this discussion. I'm just talking the ones in the boxes on the inside fender wall. Also, I'm not sure what's up with the "brown" color link. Seems hard to find brown ones, or at least it used to be. I'm not sure if the brown was replaced by red or what, but I've seen more red links than I have brown although brown seems to be making a comeback. So about part numbers? When I last looked, the part numbers were as follows: FUSIBLE LINK-1.25 - 24161-A0100 - This is the black one FUSIBLE LINK-0.5 - 24161-28500 - This is the green one FUSIBLE LINK-0.3 - 24161-Y0100 - This is the brown (or red) one (supersedes old number 24161-N4200) EuroDat, for your 77, it seems you want one black and three brown (or red)

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/nissan-300zx-z31/6834289947.html

I’d do a continuity check with a multi-meter on the wire bundle. If you have one wire that has compromised the insulation there is a good chance you have others that you can’t see. It’s a PITA sometimes to run wire problems because they could have an intermittent connection only manifesting during vibrations or upon heating up. So be patient, try and move the wire bundle while testing and test multiple times and see what you find. Wal280z has a wire diagram he made that’s awesome that your can download that will help you find the end points of each wire you’re chasing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. On those early car photos, they photoshoped (circa 1969) the badges:

Not to be "that guy" but the connection of your braided fuel line below the regulator to the hard fuel line concerns me a little. I see you have it hose clamped. Braided fuel line doesn't clamp very well especially for higher pressure systems used with fuel injection. Please double check that so your sure of it.

No decision is a good decision. Let the Z decide what it needs.

This is exactly how my 5/77 is set up as well.

Since you are in Houston, check out the folks at SZRpro, formerly Houston Z Auto. They are very knowledgeable and well regarded on both platforms and can give you some real appreciation of what you might be facing with either choice. The S30 series is vastly more simple when compared to the sophistication and complexity of the Z32. Good luck with your education.

Considering the primary factor here being your limited garage space and need to park a car beside your project, I would vote for a nice Z32 in good condition that needs little to no work at the moment. Drive it until you need to do any major work, then hopefully you will have found either a bigger place to work on it or a local shop to help. Attempting an S30 restoration in a two car garage that is half occupied is a great way for someone else to pick up your project for cheap when you give up.... read my thread, it will be a sobering process.

I think I would still take the peel the onion approach

From Holland to the US and down to Australia. Thanks Koni and MSA.

The green and black at the tank are for a optional fuel pump. The green wire doesn't have power by default. There is a connector in the harness up at the front of the console that is connected to nothing and taped with blue tape in the harness. The connector has 2 green wires. You can just jumper this connector and it sends power to the green wire at the tank. It is on the key and powered with the key in the On position. The black wire is the Neg (ground) for the pump. If you do a electric fuel pump you should put an inertia switch in the loop to jumper the connector so power to the pump will be cut in a crash. The dealer did put in an electric pump in my 73 after my complaining about vapor locking. Don't know about how the wiring was done up at the console, but there were a couple more relay type brass enclosures put on the body side of the passenger footwell kick panel. On my 71 I just jumpered the connector with an inertia switch in the loop.

Richard, you could tap that little dent out then give that blade another shot of paint but even if you left it as is it will not run out of balance, it is still the same amount of weight in the same axis. The rad fan doesn't rotate fast enough for that dent to make a difference.

Very nice looking FLZ. Are you on Facebook also? There is a Fairlady Z group there also. Most lean on HS30-H anyway for info but some information is out there. Check the block and head to see if you have a L20/E30 block/head combo.

I suspect the inner pieces are perforated with rust. So I would remove the skin for access and then rework the inner pieces. I wouldn't want to totally cut the roof bracing, just repair or replace as necessary.

Removed the FPR got no fuel pressure. I did have another FPR on old ZX. Ran some gas through it and Fuel pressure is at 32psi. So my original FPR must have been gunked up. The new salvaged FPR might eventually give out as well. What I did notice which I don’t think had happened before is I would here my relay clicking. I had the oil pressure disconnected so fuel pump would just run and than relay started clicking on and off. Is that normal? With oil pressure connected and car running I didn’t here the Relay clicking. Another thing i did was moved the clear fuel filter. It was between fuel pump and engine. It took the place of the fuel damper. It’s now between the gas tank and fuel pump. So now I just have a hose from fuel pump out to fuel line. 1977 280Z EL Paso TX

Smitty - even with my bondo and spot putty dust covered glasses I have no idea why I should even think that the 280 shown was Flagg's 260 2+2 salt flats car. Too many hours getting the car ready and still I'm a good three weeks behind. Are you running that car (CP, GTU, GT2) and if so with what organization?

Absolutely, I was thinking of the block on the engine stand like in the photo.

I could.... but I don't really want to...

C'mon...where's your sense of adventure? A bit of naval jelly and some wire brush work and she'll be ready to go on BaT.

Excellent. Keep coming to us with the easy issues. We like those. Don't forget to use copious amounts of anti-corrosion anti-seize on your new spindle pins when you slide them in for the final installation. And if you didn't already know.... The location of the notch for the lock pin is not in the center of the spindle pin. It's offset a little bit. (The pin is not symmetric). There is a correct front and back. Point is... If you haven't already done so, it's a lot easier to determine which is the correct installation direction when the parts are off the car and not all slathered with copious amounts of lube. Mark it with a sharpie or something now while everything is clean so you don't have to futz with it while it's all slippy.

The first wave of 240Z and early 260Z Sport struts have arrived from Koni. Pre-sale orders have already shipped if you were one of the early birds. A special thank you to @KONI Lee for his knowledge and support for the Z community. Koni has done an outstanding job and we are extremely proud to be teaming up with them to offer such an amazing product. I will update everyone once the batch of late 260Z and 280Z struts arrive as well as for the 280ZX. Thank you!

Yes, this is true. But now you have another box and more wires. This method I’m going with will be cleaner and simpler. And even less costly I believe.