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A much needed cut and buff action. Getting ready for the first car show of the year.

The good thing about forums like ours -- We have the research, historical data, and the experience to help! I saw this photo and thought I would share.

I am one of the many Z owners, with SUs, that has battled a lean condition on hard acceleration, or WOT. My idle and cruise AFR readings (have AFM attached to header) are great at 14.5 or so, so have adjusted it as best as i could. Along with SM needles, I adjusted fuel levels and tried to do anything I could think of to resolve this issue, to no avail. I even switched to triple Webers, which allowed me to see how my car could really perform with appropriate AFR! I decided to switch back to SUs, as I had some linkage sticking and fuel dripping that bugged me. So, I started looking into the different available SU needles to see if I could find something richer. I looked at various charts and saw that the SB needle had the same configuration at the top two levels (so idle is the same), and was slightly richer heading down the needle. I thought, let's give it a shot! I could not find anyone locally that provides SB needles, so I went down under to Australia and ordered a set of SB needles from Competition Products for about $40 delivered (less than 2 weeks for delivery). I was stunned at the improvement! My idle and cruise AFR remained around 14.5, but my lean (16 to 17+ AFR) condition at WOT was gone, now hitting around 13.5 AFR!! That is ideal! I cannot believe the difference. My L28 was rebuilt with flat top pistons years ago, but outside of that, there is nothing else outside of the norm. I would strongly recommend this solution to those with similar issues! I strongly urge you to make sure your fuel level (and flow) is appropriate before you go this route, as that can resolve many of the lean issues.

The 280Z VIN tag is riveted to a bracket that's on the metal dash skeleton. The new dash by Vintage Dashes is just the pad that screws onto the existing dash skeleton. No need to mess with the VIN tag.

My second 240Z walnut shift knob arrived today and it is beautiful! This is the second shift knob that I have purchased this month, both from the same seller on eBay. The first one was a 5-speed shift knob and I liked it so much that I ordered a second one, a 4-speed walnut shift knob. Both shift knobs are for my two '71 240Z projects. They are the same size and shape as the original 240Z wood shift knobs, but are a much better quality. Max is great to work with and I highly recommend him and his high-quality walnut shift knobs. I took some pictures of the 2 new knobs along with my original, badly-faded and peeling plastic chrome ring on the bottom shift knob. Here's the eBay link if you are interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-1970-78-reproduction-4-or-5-Speed-Shift-Knob-Walnut/132304718542?hash=item1ecdf9cace:g:dn4AAOSwHPNbFAqj:rk:4:pf:0

Update: I decided to upgrade to a tubular crossmember beautifully designed by Apex Engineered. I also purchased new tie rods and steering knuckles from them but will not receive those for another 2 to 3 weeks. I changed my banged up OE oil pan for a cast aluminum one from Arizona Z Car. With the crossmember and oil pan in hand we put the car up on a 2 post lift and held up the engine from the bottom with 3 heavy duty adjustable stands. I did let a pro like Erick Pons at "Z Pons Auto Service" here in Miami do the job since the risk of screwing up would prove way too costly. Once the engine was propped up, the crossmember swap went quite easily and took about 2 hours. Changing the oil pan was totally straight forward. I rushed the steering rack to another shop for rebuild and the strut housings, stock lower control arms, new SS splash pan and brake dust covers for media blast and powder coating. Should have all the parts back for assembly by next week but here are some progress pics.

If you know someone else with a 280Z maybe they'll let you put yours in to their car. If the problem follows the ECU there's your answer. People have been known to actually see the defects in their ECU's. Burnt parts or cracked solder joints. Might be worthwhile to remove yours and take it apart. It's very easy to do.

I watched the video. Seems like you have spark but a very weak mixture. Have a look below the EGR valve and see if the manifold rotted through causing the exhaust to dilute the charge in the manifold. It is a very elusive problem.

So much pressure to perform!!! Here's my steering rack thread. The original pics are dead because Photobucket sucks, but the important ones have been reloaded later on in the thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/ If there's any other pic missing that you want to see, let me know and I'll see if I can reload it.

Similar design to some SU tools.

@gnosez https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bob-Sharp-Racing-Vintage-movie-on-DVD-Datsun-Racing-XMAS-SPECIAL-OFFER/183506802662?hash=item2ab9db97e6:g:ufQAAOSwxK9b1Kkw:rk:28:pf:0

That's pretty funny Wayne! I keep sneeking in to take a look every now and then myself. My wife thinks I'm obsessed. Imagine that!

Try Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-50304-Transmission-Transaxle/dp/B000CPCBEQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=redline+mt90&qid=1551223687&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I guess you should have kept the reproduction one that you sold with the slightly-off shift map. Your NOS shift knob is sitting in a box and now you have to shift gears with no shift knob at all.

It's the spice

So at 4 minutes it died, then you got out and disconnected the coolant temperature sensor to restart it, then you reconnected the sensor and drove away? This is a stretch but it sounds like it might be related to the ECU, at the coolant temperature circuit. The ECU failures lead to either running rich and dying or just plain immediate dying. Disconnecting the sensor stops current flow through that circuit in the ECU. I wonder if that's the basic reason the ECU's die, the coolant sensor circuit goes bad. I had a 78 ECU go bad, and it would restart also after it died. If you wanted to try a weird experiment that might even keep you going for a little while, put a switch in the coolant sensor circuit. Just run a long wire in to the cabin from each side of the bullet connectors and install a switch. It could even be a momentary push button switch. Then you can break the circuit as soon as it starts to die instead of stopping, getting out, and disconnecting it under the hood. It might help you keep going and offer a clue to the real problem. It sounded pretty good until it crapped out.

so the Fuel pressure is good, the temp sensor is good, and the TPS is suspect, and the air temp sensor is suspect. Neither of those would account for a sudden loss of power, but would account for a chronic mixture issue (air temp) or a idle issue that was constant. Since intermittent shut down is the real issue, I would focus on fuel or spark. Install a perm fuel pressure gauge (extreme caution here, you don't want to have a gas leak and engine fire) and the spark monitor. You are going to have to isolate the issue before any more testing. The ign switch is a extreme long shot since it typically would be a start issue and not a run issue. With the spark and fuel pressure monitored you would have to catch it next time it happens and see which of the problems it is. and if all else fails (spark is good and fuel pressure is good) I think the FSM just points to a bad ECU, try giving it a smack (don't know if ZX has them in the same place as the Z) with your hand on the case and see if it has an effect.

1.1 ohms or 1.1K ohms? 1.1ohms or 1100 ohms. If its 1.1k or 1100ohms then all is ok with that system, both the sensor and most likely the hookup, you can check that off as a non issue.

Get a ohm reading of the temp sensor AT THE ECU if you have not done that already. This will check both the sensor and the wire hookup. the FSM will tell you which pins to check. This one should track with the water temp per the scale provided in the FSM. This check requires disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU to get to the pins.

I mentioned the possible swap of the bullet connectors for the thermotime and temp sensor, this may have been brought up before. You also should get a better DMM, get one with auto setting on the ohms, a lot easier to work with. Don't go pulling the ignition switch yet, you need to get to the bottom of the ohm readings 1st.

So yes... It sounds like your TVS isn't closing properly. That won't cause your car to die while driving though. Hard to make out much from that video. The audio is so bad that I can't tell what's going on. I can't make out if you are cranking the engine, or if it starts or not. I've got no video experience at all, but it would help (me at least) if I could hear the sounds of the engine.

Glad to help. No, the TVS should be either "infinite" or "zero", so checking that on the 200 Ohm scale is the appropriate setting. Your HF meter probably reads between one and two Ohms on the 200 Ohm scale with the leads shorted together (mine reads 1.3 Ohms or so). So if you're checking the TVS (TPS), you should see pretty much that same reading when the switch is closed. WOT side closed at WOT. Idle side closed at idle. If the idle side isn't closing, it's probably either an adjustment issue, or someone has been in there messing with it.

Very cool, Phil! My buddy, Randalla, created the Float Sync tool that is used with SU carbs that looks similar to this. He is now looking to make more of them for sale to the Z crowd!

After contemplating the various options for replacement engines, I decided very early on I wanted to maintain the "look" of the stock engine and mod it in ways to get a little better performance and sound. In the end, I found a used stroker motor for the car that saved me thousands in a build, along with giving me the look I was seeking in the engine bay. RB's are great to drive and they have a big "wow" factor too. But they are also a lot more work to install, support, upgrade... and engine management becomes an issue as well. $$$$$ Swapping in a V8 gives you awesome torque and straightline performance, but steals the spirit of the car... and $$$$ again, mostly for the supporting mods. If a stroker is not available for a decent price, the next best thing is a clean L28 with your choice of FI or carbs. Lots of fun, great to look at and smiles for miles!

You have your Ohmmeter on the 200 Ohms range. That means the meter "pegs out" at 200 Ohms and any resistance reading higher than that reads as "1 ." There is probably nothing wrong with the air temp sensors you are looking at. You probably just have your meter on the wrong scale to get the proper reading. At room temperature, the air temp sensor should have a resistance of about 2200 Ohms. So if you try to read that on the 200 Ohm scale, it won't read. And even the next scale up (the 2K scale) is too low as well (since the resistance is greater than 2K Ohms). At room temperature, you'll probably need to go all the way up to the 20K Ohm scale to get a reading off the ATS. The resistance drops as the temperature increases, but the colder it is, the higher the resistance. Check it on a higher range on your meter and see what you get.

I have done it. The bearing is available and the grease seal. The bushing are the issue. They are unique. A machine shop or a talented home fabricator can make them. Look in my build thread where I rebuilt the rack and CO has a thread on it too.

will do thanks!

That reminds me, I need to buy a 5-speed knob for the 5-speed trans I have waiting to go into my Z. Thanks for posting your comments, Steve!

I am running an electrical and a Nikki mechanical fuel pump on my Yellow 1971 Z. I have the electrical on a switch and typically just use it for when I start the car, otherwise I run it on just the mechanical. I use the electrical because I park my Z on a hill and don't drive it very often. Takes forever for the mechanical to get the gas into the carbs when the car sits for so long. With the electrical, I flip the switch, wait a couple seconds, then start the car. Works like a charm.

Probably just enough difference in the copy from the original so as to not rub suppliers fur the wrong way and get into infringements.

Not sure where this is going... Do loop... Good luck.

Mine is today. I went golfing, because I'm a glutton for punishment!

I hesitate to use the word cheap maybe you’re looking for the word economical or best bang for your buck I don’t know. I did some research on this and other than L series engine it’s going to cost you a lot more money due to modifications required. My humble opinion a good L 28 would probably be great for that car

It seems like it's not too unusual for a rebuilt alternator to test bad. See if they will bench test the next one before you install it. There's no use in wasting time swapping in another bad part. At least they gave you an alternator correct for your car. If you have a trickle charger, put your new battery on that before testing again. The batteries at a parts place can sit there a long time before they are bought.

I went back to the top of the thread and saw you have a 78. Are you sure the new alternator is internally regulated? It should have been rated at 60A. If you got a 50A or 40A alternator, it probably doesn't have an internal voltage regulator. If that is the case, your voltage would read low since there is nothing to excite the field on the alternator. Page EE-20 describes how to test. Prior to testing, make sure the battery is fully charged and make sure you have a good ground on your alternator. Do a resistance test from the E terminal (ground) on the alternator to the negative battery post. It should only be about 1 ohm or less.

Hello, a little update today .. 2/21 .. same routine .. but this time i didnt have any issue.. the car didnt die on me.. so im hoping that it was indeed electrical and i have fixed the issue.. thank you all for the help! now i can move on to the next problem ..

Be safe. Be smart. Take the engine out and put it on a stand and you'll have the cross member and suspension free and clear to work on. The "extra work" would come from trying to work around the situation you're trying to create to avoid the extra work...

My engine is fully detailed/finished and I really don't need to take it out for any other reason so I'm trying to avoid that extra work.

Me too. Purchased it in Phoenix during ZCON 2012 after a rock hit on the way down. Still in good shape, other than the usual sand blasting from the roads around here. FW241 is the part number. Poor glass guy that did the install had to do it in full sun out in the farthest corner of the Hotel parking lot. He was told before that he could not do any work inside the parkaid. Poor bastard. I stood in the shade of his van while he toiled. Total pro, I gave him a hell of a tip.

Wow! Great info Namerow. Thank you so very much. I feel confident now that the windshields I've located come from a very reputable manufacturer. This information will serve everyone on this forum.

"PPG Industries’ (NYSE:PPG) automotive glass and services business, which is under contract to be sold to a new company being formed by Kohlberg & Co., LLC, Mount Kisco, N.Y., and PPG, will begin using the name “Pittsburgh Glass Works,” effective Aug. 1, 2008. The newly-formed business will continue using the name following closure of the transaction with Kohlberg & Co. that is expected in the third quarter of this year." "PITTSBURGH, OCTOBER 2, 2008With the completion of the sale of PPG Industries’ (NYSE:PPG) automotive glass and services business, Pittsburgh Glass Works officially launched business operations, yesterday, October 1, 2008. Affiliates of Kohlberg & Company will own 60 percent and PPG will retain approximately 40 percent of equity share in Pittsburgh Glass Works." " About Pittsburgh Glass WorksPittsburgh Glass Works (PGW) supplies automotive OEM windshields, rear and side windows, sunroofs and assemblies for auto and truck manufacturers, and it supplies and distributes replacement automotive glass products for use in the aftermarket. It also provides insurance claims services through its LYNX Services subsidiary, glass management software and internet marketing services through its GTS subsidiary, and e-business solutions through its GLAXIS offering. Automotive glass products are manufactured and fabricated in nine North American plants located in Berea, Ky.; Creighton, Meadville and Tipton, Pa.; Crestline Ohio; Evansville, Ind.; Evart, Mich.; and Hawkesbury and Oshawa, Ont., Canada. In addition, nine satellite parts assembly plants are located throughout North America, and two LYNX Services claims management call centers in Ft. Myers, Fla. and Paducah, Ky. Combined, the businesses employ approximately 4,400 people." " About Kohlberg & Co., LLC Kohlberg & Company, LLC is a leading U.S. private equity firm which acquires "middle market" companies. Since 1987, the firm has organized six private equity funds, through which it has raised $3.7" In other words, the windshields you have are manufactured by what used to be PPG Industries' automotive glass division. Same design/technology (presumably), same manufacturing facilities (USA), new ownership/name/management. PGW does, indeed, have operations in Poland, but I doubt that the Z windshields come from that location.

PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass) is still in business, #190 on the top 500 businesses, and is now called PPG Industries due to its diverse line of products ranging from eyeglass lenses to paint to Liquid Nails, as well as glass products. PGW ( http://www.pgwglass.com ) is listed as a Polish company that supplies glass to most of the major auto manufacturers in US & Europe. If you go to the PPG web site and type PGW in the search box, noting is found, indicating no relationship. A mystery..... Dennis

Your right, I should have kept it and left it on the car. Unfortunately, I sold the car late last year and now the beautiful NOS knob is gone. ☹️