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I measured what I believe to be a genuine Nissan panel rivet to compare to the measurements of the BMW part. The BMW part seems to be a little smaller. Those rivets may have issues with staying firmly in the anchor points. The measurements for the Nissan part numbers are in blue.

Thats the John Coffey built Z. RIP John, It crossed china a few years ago Peking to pairs. https://www.facebook.com/p2p240z/

I've done that with whole cars. It's always fun to see how long it takes for her to notice the additional car at the shop

Amps are drawn, not pushed. The device uses the amount of energy it is designed for. The gauge of wire is designed for the amount of current being drawn by that circuit. All those amps just sit idle until drawn by a device. Think of it as having a reservoir of power available for more devices than was originally designed for the car.

Hi All Been a while since I have posted anything here; have been watching/reading though. This is not only confined to the Z series of cars. I have a 1969 Datsun 1000 / B10, which was not sold in the USA (was sold in Canada though); Kats will probably be familiar with the model as it is gaining popularity in Japan. When I read this post I checked the original jack I have for it. It is stamped "O A R", which translates to 18th January, 1969. Sorry I dont have any photos of it, but the stamping looks the same as seen on the Z car jacks. I am wondering if this applies to other model Datsuns as well, and how far back it goes; ie was it seen on the 1600 / 510? The B10 was first released in 1967; I have posted this information on the forum and am hoping to turn up info such as this prior to 1969. FWIW.

Picture of a Dutch Datsun Dealership in 1973 (Photo from Classic Z Register).

Thanks Jeff The dash works fine now, I did not connect the ground wire for the dash. I am very pleased with the Vintage Dash now that it is in the car and everything is working Regards Bob

The steering rack has plenty of rotation when it is all loosened from the bushings and the stop bracket. Mine is definitely rotated too far up as you can see by the different alignment angles at the knuckle on the 240 and mine.

Gave up on these rivets a long time ago. Now I install steel 10-24 riv-nuts and black oxide truss head machine screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/94779A620 Never lose the pins, panels are held down tight. Works great for black interiors, I guess you'd be painting heads for other color interiors. Black on white or blue or tan would look cool though wouldn't it? Yes you have to drill out each of the 5mm holes to whatever size the riv nuts need but once you do it you'll never baulk when you have to remove a panel to do any modifications (which we never do, right?)

There is certainly a rubber plug on the inside hole but not sure about the hole underneath.

If you surround the welded area with strong magnets, the oxygen atoms are pushed away hence no need for gas..... ?

Will it be at Branson, 2019? I have a nice door mirror if you need to complete.

I think so. It has many tips for increasing power but maintaining durability. How to unshroud valves, match ports, get the rotating parts balanced for higher revs, choose lash pads and confirm wipe patterns. The kind of things you'll need to do to get 200-220 HP, I think. Probably help you pick the right machinist also for any work done. The authors of those two books shared a lot of information so there's some overlap. The two books are a good set.

Does everything still work correctly? There is no need to put extra effort in to insulating those wires. If you still want to do it, you could cut the ring off, add the shrink tube, then put a new ring on.

Webers are way over my head, duh. A slingshot is way over my head. The perfect screwdriver...

That is my reasoning for hole #3 on the cam spocket.

Or you can use floor molding vinyl cut to the right width and length for less than $5...

Bob Sharp takes the C/P checkers at the 1972 ARRC, Road Atlanta. Jeff Morrison photo.

Okay, makes sense. Thanks. As you can tell I usually stay away from "electrical"..... Afraid of it.

Sorry, I assumed too much. Please review this then get back to us. http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

@kats I found a jack at a swap meet today. Thanks to your help in this thread, I knew it was an early one. Although I could not make out the date stamp while I was there. Too much dirt and a bad stamping. I ended up buying it anyway as I talked the guy down to $10. I figured it was worth that being an early style. When I got home, I cleaned it up as best I could and think it is P F Y which would work great for me as I have a 6-70 car. and this should be 1970/6/24. The stamping is bad though, do you think I have read it right. It still needs to be cleaned up.

California Datsun?!? Not sure I would trust them that it was truly NOS. They have been shady in the past. Just my opinion from hearsay, I have never bought from them.

Harbor Freight has a 90 rivet set that contains 50 5mm rivets for a reasonable price. https://www.harborfreight.com/90-piece-pom-rivet-assortment-67611.html Dennis

Thanks W3! She made it out of hibernation today for a beer run. Cool weather = Easy driving ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-FORD-FENDER-SHIELD-PUSH-TYPE-RETAINERS-OEM-387843-S/253285631459?epid=1189303991&hash=item3af90005e3:g:zaEAAMXQlrxRa9Hi:rk:4:pf:0

. A 1,000,000 amp alternator is fine in our cars. The car only draws what the device needs. Having more available amps allows you to run a stereo, fog lamps, radar detector, cell phone charger etc etc.

Panty hose and a vacuum. That sounds like a young mans first girlfriend.

Nude, always nude.

What color and style of pantyhose do you recommend?

Well, the Engine rebuild book arrived today. My wife opened the package, “she yells from he door....we got a “Nissan Datsun Engine Rebuild book”. Me: cough cough...okay great. She’s smart she knows somethings in the hopper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think you received the dash intended for my car ?.

Saw this new dash show up on ebay recently as well. Amazing - there are more of these out there.

Still available from Nissan. The smaller ones behind the tag also.

Can hardly wait to see more of this!

That's a two way street in my experiences. Yard sales, I get a phone call. "I've found a fantastic deal, can you bring your truck?"

I haven’t been back out to the shop yet, but Granny’s idea kept me awake all night. That should work actually. I reinstalled the rack without a reference mark after doing all the powder coating. It’s quite possible I have it rotated too high even for factory steering shaft angles. I hope that’s it!

"That is a wise investment that I lucked into, quite rare."

Mark, can you not loosen the bushing clamps on the steering rack and give the rack a slight twist back to give a bit more clearance?

So about my bender... That press brake is only maybe eight inches or so long, but I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I saw the idea on the web and made up the details as I went along. Of course, as with most project, the details are where the magic is. One longer spring I cut into two halves. Two bolts (5/8-11 I think) with the heads cut off for the guide pins. Nyloc nuts (not in pic) to adjust and hold position for different stock thicknesses. I made the bottom die shorter than the top on purpose so it functions like a finger brake with some of the fingers removed. That way I can hang the unbent portion out of the dies and keep a section straight. Here's a pic of most of the parts before final assy: I cut the bolt heads off on the lathe and turned a counterbore shoulder. That way I can press the bolts into the base and the shoulder will make sure they are perpendicular (normal). The shoulder is a little shorter than the base thickness so the bottom is recessed. That way I can tack weld the bolts into place from underneath and the base will still sit flat: I made the dies on my metal shaper. Here's an action shot cutting the first side of the upper die: And here's the two finished. They really should be hardened for longer life, but I'm kinda hoping that with the few bends I make, it'll last long enough without heat treat: So far it's been a great little tool and has enabled me to make such beauties as this: And this:

Well, I told her this is better than gambling, drinking to excess and all sorts of unhealthy things men do. ;). I need an outlet and turning wrenches is one way. I’ll get a text when I am work in two weeks, it will be pic of the engine in the garage and she’ll say..”what is this”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with your not going turbo. There are lots of issues going turbo. I have 2 turbo motors here at the house and may go that way some day but you really have to go aftermarket EFI and intercooler to make it worth while. It's lots of work and programming. I think if I were going to approach this, I would go with the better of the 2 P90 engines. If you don't use the head, sell it. They bring pretty good money. Supposedly they are one of the better breathing heads though. I would go triple webers like Blue said with about 10:1 compression and a good ignition system. Maybe a 123 ignition system. Should run really well and not be overly finicky. I might bore as much as I could to get a little larger engine. Play with the engine calculator some... @240260280 Make sure the engine you buy will turn freely by hand. The boroscope is a good idea! So are biting and low blows but if I end up in a fight all options are open. ?

its a 1970 build. final 1970 cars were around 18000ish?

Also, the N/A `82 F54 already comes with flat top pistons. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

That's an excellent offer!

Turns out I have two of them. Both used. One is the 74810-E4100, painted black in a rather old, wrinkled finish. It is in very good shape and needs to be refinished. The other must be a later style - perhaps for the 280Z?- because of the hole in the front. My parts books don't go into the 280Z model years. Finished in that Eastwood CAD simulated paint, it shows some dings and bends that could be easily hammered out. $135 for the black one, $100 for the CAD one. Plus shipping. I'll need to get a box made.

Update: silvermine is shipping out a set of the firewall and collars for me to fabricate a correctly positioned shaft support. He wants to make sure it is correctly positioned in a car before setting the jig up to a different angle. I will bolt up the shaft to the pedal box with the collar loose, poking through the firewall plate that will be bolted to the chassis, then tack weld the collar on at the correct angle while everything is correctly aligned. Doing this in an actual car will ensure the fit and angles are correct. I will then ship the part back to silvermine to use as the template for the production line.

A temporary license plate on my car. Kats