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Helped my buddy with his restoration. Brake lines and Toyota 4 pots installed. Rubber fuel lines run (triple SK's). Clutch slave and rubber hose installed. Next to bleed the system.

@siteunseen I know how you are----figured I'd have to start twisting your arm now. I've booked room #219 and #220. Anyone interested in staying there should go ahead and book their stay. Let them know that you are a part of the ZFest/ ZCON 2019 event, as it seems the whole place has been reserved for that week. (July 14-21)

Here you have 5 portuguese Z's with kobe seiko wheels. All of our z's got full extras...you'll see them when I finish all the resto...I believe within 2 months!

@Patcon@240260280 Have you never seen the factory triple-outlet fuel pipe before? 17520-E4620 was offered as a Nissan Sports/Race Option part pretty much from the beginning, and is still available today. Here's an example from 1971:

@Patcon Here is a triple install with stock carb fuel rail The one you pointed out (below) may be a modified stock EFI fuel rail Here is a stock fuel rail. It looks like the above fuel rail may be cobbled from new piping and the front stand-off brackets from the stock rail:

I've been taking it on and off myself the same way Patcon describes without issue, but my luck would likely run out when it matters most. Fortunately, I've gotten better about avoiding situations that will lead to immediate regret. Mostly from experience.

I really need to design the universal lock/sandwich plate with LLLLLLLOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGGG slots that I've had in mind for ...... hmmmmmm 150 years, maybe more, so folks don't ever have to rely on finding the 'right' base for their dizzy choice. Just imagine your current base with the short little slots extended alllllllll the way around in a circle. Just a couple three bridge points so it's one piece. How hard can this be in this land of CNC laser cut parts?

I hang my hood from the rafters with a rope then roll the car to the position that lets me get the bolts in. I take it off in a similar way. Tie it up , unbolt it.

I hope she feels better! I can put the hood on and off by myself if I'm careful. Put some towels on the upper fenders. Get the hinges on the car. Lay the hood down flat with the front edge against your legs and with the upper bolt holes lining up, lay it down. Put the upper bolts into the hood, then pivot the hood up and add the lower bolts. Got this from @Home Built by Jeff

Thanks guys. I've gotta hammer form one more piece on the corner of the door. On that funny shaped corner at the back of the frame. Should be fun hahh, I did up a list of things still needed to address on the chassis and I'm further away than I thought. Ahhhh it never ends. Might take a couple weeks break. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

gonna have to tighten up the coverage in the secondary against C. Looked a little unfocused after the 1st Q but of course so much talent did not matter. I thought N was going to blow a gasket on that series where they had 3 penalties and had to settle for a FG. T looked good buy seemed a bit reserved when asked about the ankle. J looked good. Got kinda chippy. Roll Tide! I am hoping UCF puts it on LSU. Feel so bad about MM hope the best for him.

I was talking in tongues last night, feeling it today too. 8^(

Super Cool!!! You need to start a thread on what you've picked up? Grannyknot's metal working tips

Sure hope you all do---- https://www.honeysuckleinn.com/en-us Much less than the Hilton, comfortable enough (Sh!t, Shower, a little Sleep, repeat daily---you won't be spending much time in your room), breakfast included every morning, you can mix your own drink the way you like it, no elevators to contend with, 93 octane across the street, trees with a grass island for your canopy tent, etc., etc. @Captain Obvious it's not an Aloft @MikeW Cheeky Monkey

This is an older photo of my kit that came with the same fuel pipe. The copper tubing is grafted to the end of this pipe and goes to the fuel return line. In my case the triple pipe is flipped to be fed from the rear as my tank line is routed to the firewall instead of the stock front location.

16g.butt weld, I'd shoot for about 1/32" gap. You're correct in needing a good light. Everything (sheet metal, welding gun) has to be aligned perfectly when you pull the trigger. I've been welding for years but the precise sheet metal butt welds forced me to buy an auto darkening hood. I found that my old method of nodding my head to lower the old hood would throw off my aim just enough to miss the seam when I started welding.

17520-E4620 fitted examples:

I've got a brand spankin' new left side door mirror sitting right here waiting just for you------ once you get your a$$ this way for Zcon 2019! If you are serious, I'll book the room tomorrow at the Honeysuckle Inn. You'll love the place! Porch, pool and parking right in front of your door. Tide is in!

Alabama looks good tonight. Oklahoma, not so much. Snow is melting a bit but temperature is in the low 20s overnight. I was going to suggest a glass shop, but sounds like you've checked into that already. I did that with the Avanti outside mirror in the past. Dennis

Anybody else have info? (Thnx Patcon)

P.s I think the world of you Dennis. You're one of the few that know me. We'll shake hands one day! Hopefully at your place.

Yes I do. Just the glass. I'll eventually go to a local glass supplier but they won't have the beveled edge. I have a stick on 3" round one now so no rush until zcon 2019 when I'm coming for Zup's belt! HAHa. What about this Alabama game? I'm enjoying this with some beers. How are the snow drifts at Arrowhead Lake? Its 60 degrees here. Cliff

Cliff, do you just need the glass mirror part?

New hinges came today, and they have *no* slop or looseness at all. Big difference, and explains all the things that never seemed right with the hood since I got the car. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Door panels now complete, they are not in perfect shape but will do for now. The passenger panel was originally a black panel. I sprayed the panel and then used a foil tape to recover the stripe. Prior to installation I lined the doors with dyna mat and installed new vapor barrier. Water sanded and buffed the door and installed new mirrors. Now on to refinishing the hatch.

Thank you Mike.

I like googling the vin #. You'd be surprised at the videos that pop up where they are beating the hell out of the cars in the past. The internet doesn't forget after 5 years like insurance companies do.

Try adjusting the butt weld gaps to get full penetration. Almost no gap for thin sheet metal. I try to keep the gap on the narrow side and turn up the settings to get full penetration. One other tip, well two. An auto darkening hood will make your life easier if you don't have one and when setting up the welder the first thing I try to achieve is an instant arc. No wire pushing, no hesitation, just aim, pull the trigger and weld. This is usually a little hot but with narrow gaps, the welds penetrate and lay flat.

I had to jump through hoops to find a replacement gauge for this regulator on the argon tank, but I finally got it going today. The welds look much cleaner, you were right grannyknot, I don’t wanna go back to flux core ha. I was thinking about penetration with the setup, I feel like if I get a good bead going, it flows to both sides of the sheet, the first image is the weld side, and the second is the “under” section, I can see where I made the regulator adjustments. It seems that with good penetration it might not be required to go under and weld everything over, maybe in certain spots? Got the pan shape to be better in the rear too, the corner where it attaches to near the dogleg is tough. Persistence (little hammer) and deliverance (big hammer) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

? Hey welcome back to the site!! Glad to see you participating again. -- Mike

The weather gave me one more opportunity to drive the Z this year, so I took it to a show at Gateway Classic Cars. This is what parked next to me. The owner is also restoring #30.