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I just got a new 1972 240z this past Christmas. I am new to the forum and the car community in general as this is my first car. My dad grubb240z has been on the forum for a while.

Isn't it more the case that NA companies that have their products manufactured in China don't want to pay for a quality product? China is capable of producing a piece of crap that looks the part at a very low price and that is why NA companies have their stuff produced there. I think Chinese manufactures are given a rock bottom price point and specs to work to from by companies like AC Delco, Motorcraft, Delta, Stanley even Milwaukee because those companies simply want higher profits and more repeat sales. As backward as China can be towards its own people I don't believe they are the real villains here, I would put that squarely on the shoulders of greedy NA companies and stingy NA consumers. Walmart prices rule.

nice looking 240z. I still have my very first car which was a 240z and I have had it 35 years...

Welcome Trevor and your new best friend too.

I don't think there's anything to worry about. Valve seals in the future would be a good idea. So would checking RB's oil level a bit more frequently. Maybe the other red Z's owner is a Datsun mechanic. And as long as we're hoping maybe he likes to do valve seals.

When Chas says "coast down the hill" he means, in gear using the engine to slow you down.

Unpacked several recent purchases for install on the Datsun on New Year’s Day.

Welcome pal. Cool car but your Dad is way cooler!

Welcome to the group. Many of us followed your dad's posts before Christmas and we're very glad to meet you and your "new" ride. Speaking for myself and presumably others, I hope you'll make our forum a regular stopping point for your web surfing. This is probably the most helpful group you will come across. Enjoy the ride!

If you're thinking of doing some refurb and sale work, there's little on a 240Z that that won't have interest - in other words take everything you can lay your hands on. Work the car very hard! Here's a few examples of small stuff (be sure and get ALL the fasteners). Note - the rubber steering coupler is NLA, an uncracked one has re-sale value. Keep everything carefully zip bagged and tagged separately, don't throw it into a box and expect to remember what goes with what.

You're very fortunate to have a Dad like you do. Mine cared more about working than doing nice things for his kids. He's almost 80 now and come full circle though. I followed your Dad's thread with nothing but smiles. Treat that car good, it means a lot to two people. Maybe let your sister drive it someday!

Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it. I originally cranked it over post-rebuild without the spark plugs to get the oil up/check there is no bent valves, timing correct, etc but now thinking about your last post Site, the dizzy could be in the wrong way. (180 degrees around ), this would certainly make a difference right? I can almost assure you that the timing/tdc is correct as i had to do it twice! (broken head bolt, dont as lol). but i didnt check the dizzy when it went in. I get a popping sound out of the AFM when i give it gas while trying to start it. Think the dizzy in the wrong orientation is my answer! Will get to it this weekend guys and let you know. Thanks again for the help! Cheers JD

I'll look when I get home.

He needs the later one. 12-92. I have that graph also, just forgot I did.

As site says it should start without any of those broken items. Except for the BCDD and the dash pot they are all to make cold starting and running easier but shouldn't stop it from starting. Maybe add some details about what it sounds like when it's turning over. You said that you have spark and fuel. Are you even getting a pop? Spark plus gasoline almost always gets at least a pop.

They are desirable, many people refurb them (especially in Texas ) with new plating and a lens. Hard to find in excellent condition. New are NLA. All years are very similar, except for the switch material.

The manufacturers LOVE customers like this. They can do whatever they like, take your money, and put a little stamp on the product to divert your attention from the the people truly responsible for the poor product - themselves! Nissan spec'ed the product, sent the specs to a Chinese company so it could be made cheaply, then took your money, now you're blaming China! How much better can it get. I'll bet Takata blamed China also, for defective air bags. NASA probably blamed China for a defective O-ring. China meddled with our last election, not Russia. Russia used computers Made in China. It's Nissan! Nissan sold you the defective product. Nissan is responsible.

My Z became new again! (Missed it by 3 miles... DOH!) And yes... that is a Jack in the Box head on the antenna...

Thanks! Iv talked to Kats about it. I have looked along time for those 432 rev counters but when I finally track one down their not for sale. I would be able to reproduce them in plastic like the speedo plates (they are easier to make then the speedo plates) just by getting a very high resolution pic of the plate itself.

Kats, @moelk made very nice speedometer face plate reproductions on this thread:

From what you stated your burning oil and you are leaning out. Check for a gas smell from the oil cap and dip stick. If you smell gas you have some blow by and you might want to fix it. Old cars can burn oil for many reasons, the biggest problem would be the lean conditions. Also with the car running look for head, and exhaust leaks. Next Check your carbs are balanced and the valves are adjusted properly. Also pull the plugs and see if one or more look different than the others. You might not be lean overall and be lean on one cylinder. If that look a good try a leak down test. I can keep going but that is wait to start. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I agree with Mark. Valve seals are not that big a deal. You will get carbon buidup around the inlet vavle head (on the manifold side), people behind you may comment at the occasional smoke plume and it might use a little more oil than normal. Leaking valve stem seals won't leave you standing on the side of the road waiting for road side service.

Hi Jai. Yes, if you have enough revs and no throttle. There should be enough vacuum to pull in oil and not burn it. Then drive further a little harder than normal. Is it a good sign. The seals are not expensive and people use the ford units with succes. Getting them fitted could be costly or someone close by that is hangy with cars could do it.

Mark, No I do not feel any loss of power, and she is running great! No feel to the backfire. Yes all could have been brewing, with me not noticing it. I just started paying attention to the muffler when the new one was put on. There was almost no sound from the other one, nothing to pay attention to. Jai

@RedwingMy description of a stumble is a MOMENTARY loss of power. Normally caused by one or more cylinders BRIEFLY misfiring. You can feel it as well as hear it. If it's severe enough under heavy acceleration you'll feel yourself pitch slightly forward and then back. An exhaust backfire has no feel to it. It's just noise.Have you noticed RedBird running worse, my suspicion is the backfire is just that, backfire. The new muffler may take some getting used to. As for the smoke, it probably needs valve guide seals. It's possible the smoke has been there all along and gradually getting worse (normal) but you noticed it when the backfire started. What do you think?

Does it smoke on the first start up of the day? That's a sign of leaky valve seals too.

Hi Jai, From your description, the first thing that comes to mind is valve stem seals. They are little rubber seals around the valve stems that limit the amount of oil passing through to the valve guide to a minimum. If the become old, they harden and break and allow oil to run down the stem and throught the valve guide to the inlet valve. The inlet valve is mostly under vacuum and causes the blue smoke problem after a period of coasting and the acceleration. A simple test would be to coast down a hill with no throttle and at the bottom of the hill a short burst of full throttle or hard acceleration. You should see a plume of grey blue smoke. That is a good indication. Why the test: When coasting, high vacuum pulls in more oil then normal, but a closed throttle doen't give it enough fuel air to burn the oil. When you give it full throttle, the fuel air mixture then burns the oil creating excessive smoke for some seconds. A compression test will tell you more about the overall condition of the engine. A bit hard to say if the putt putt sound was there before or not, since the muffler was changed, makes that hard to say with any certainty. And you mention the exhaust sound is more noticable with the new muffler. The smoke issue could be all some time, but it has now come to your attention due to the sounds from the new muffler. Goodluck with finding a solution Jai. Regadds Chas

Sounds like RedBird has a doppelganger. Clarify one thing for me. Jai, Is there an engine stumble along with a small backfire or is it a backfire only? Jalex in Panama brought up a similar issue when he changed his exhaust. I'm wondering if the small backfire was always there, just not noticeable because of the previous quiet exhaust.

There’s only one option- the Nissan CAI

This was my garage from 2003 to 2016. It was built in 480,000,000 BC. Maguma Group, Halifax formation.

Thanks Blue and Gavin ! This speed meter is cool too , it makes us proud . Our cars should be treated like Ferraris and Lambos. Kats

Tested my new metal replica Fairlady hood emblem. (Oem emblem to the right for comparison)

Took our ‘72 240Z down to Cars and Coffee in San Clemente, CA. We didn’t park in the exhibitor area, but based on what I saw there, we probably should have. There was one really beautiful right side drive, orange 240Z there. It could’ve used some company :-) Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I removed my P90 head off my 1974 260z (N42) and I installed a polished E88, with performance cam, to raise the compression. Tomorrow I'm installing the ceramic coated 3-2 header and rebuilding my dual webers. Hopefully it will work nice with my 4.10 rear gears and 5 speed trans. This is how I'm spending my two week Christmas vacation. I hope to get everything completed before I go back to work.

Blue: I use that metric overlay right now and it made me pass registration when the car came from the Us. So send my regards to your friend next time you see him. I have now located three km/h speedos and one plate. One from a 280z fairlady from Japan. In the USA. Price 220$. One from a 240z in Holland. Price 200€. And waiting for pics and price on the third one and on the plate alone. The last guy is from Italy and he also had alot of other rare parts like fairlady grille, comp steering wheel, headlight buckets and so on. I asked him to send some pics of what he got. So im quite exited : )

The blue and white paired wire I spy is often used in the telephone industry I think. 120ohm/100ohm E1/T1 wire-wrap cross connects