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About Jdizz07

  • User Group: Members

  • Member ID: 32238

  • Rank: ExploZer

  • Content Count: 25

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  • Achievement Points: 186

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  • Joined: 07/19/2017

  • Been With Us For: 1848 Days

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    Construction Manager

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  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    Owner of many old classics, love for Datsun and Nissan, have a DR30 RS coupe and 280Z

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  1. Thanks for the replies everyone. Haven’t had a chance to get to the old girl this week as it’s out at my lockup (problem in London having no garage!), will have a tinker this weekend on all the above possibilities and get back to you. Really appreciate the help and will be in touch over the weekend. JD
  2. Thanks! Wires 13, & 49? I will check this afternoon. Is there anyway of checking/by passing this to see if its the sensor playing up? Or perhaps the wiring? Thanks
  3. Hi All, After getting my 280Z running after a fresh rebuild, I have fixed the smokey burnt oil from a valve seat , however it is still running ultra rich. To the point where after a new set of spark plugs it sounds great, then after 3 minutes of running they look like the photo below. What are some of the ways I can Lean out the mixture to get her running spot on??? Hopefully the video link below will give you guys an idea of the engine condition etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! JD
  4. Thanks alot guys. I have bought a vacuum pump so will test it this weekend. Would it have any impact on the engine running rough while driving? Mine seems to be running worse since the rebuild. (was running great last week)
  5. Thanks alot, Im guessing this broken wire has something to do with it?
  6. Hi all, Finally got my 76' 280Z going, but whenever the brake pedal is pressed the engine revs up to about 3000rpm. Any ideas? Hole in the brake booster? Brakes still work as usual. Any ideas for a cheap fix? Thanks in advance JD
  7. Ill check the dizzy/leads but im sure Ive check them more than once to be correct. Im trying to by a second hand intake off a late 280zx so I can grab the thermotime sensor and water temp switch. But unsure this will solve anything... The triple carbs would be my overall choice for what i would like, aesthetics and reducing the old dodgy electrics, however its a massive trade-off because I want to drive the car now, and dont want to spend the money.... Anyone got a cheap set of triples out there for me?!?!
  8. Hi Guys, After a couple of dry weekends Ive managed to get back onto the Datsun engine, but shes still not running properly if at all. I corrected the dizzy shaft tang to what appears to me to be the correct tooth. See photo below. Now, Ive plugged up both vacuum hoses from the dizzy and purge tank respectively (see photo on previous page) Thermo time switch and water temp switch are both not fixed/connected either. I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?... and then it dies, and unable to start again. Ive done this twice. I have half a tank of gas, and getting spark. Im really unsure what to do now!!! Very frustrating, living in a place with limited parts and limited knowledge on these cars!.. Was even thinking of getting rid of the whole FI and going for carbs! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it. I originally cranked it over post-rebuild without the spark plugs to get the oil up/check there is no bent valves, timing correct, etc but now thinking about your last post Site, the dizzy could be in the wrong way. (180 degrees around ), this would certainly make a difference right? I can almost assure you that the timing/tdc is correct as i had to do it twice! (broken head bolt, dont as lol). but i didnt check the dizzy when it went in. I get a popping sound out of the AFM when i give it gas while trying to start it. Think the dizzy in the wrong orientation is my answer! Will get to it this weekend guys and let you know. Thanks again for the help! Cheers JD
  10. Hi all, Happy New years to everyone. After taking the leap of faith and tearing the engine down and rebuilding it, Im now at the nervous point whereby you hope everything is done correctly and hope she fires up.... and she didnt.... So some basic background on the engine. When I received it was running very rich and since checking compression and tearing done the head, found a bad valve seat in Cyl 1. After reconditioning the head, replacing the rings, big ends, new camshaft (after my original was stolen) put is all back together and she cranks over but does not fire. I have spark, I have petrol (injectors are spraying on crank over). Now to my nightmare.... The wiring was in pretty bad nick when i got the car, but have continuity tested all wires from the ECU and everything check out, the problem is some of the sensors have broken. The thermo-time switch is broken, as well as the brittle wires from the water temperature switch have broken. (see photos below) The car was also running a vacuum switch solenoid on top of the thermostat housing, (originally from Cali) which also has broken, leaving me with a some lose vacuum lines and wires I have no idea if that is contributing to it not starting. These parts are not cheap buying new, i think a new thermo-time switch is about £80 by the time i get it shipped to the UK, not really money well spent. Can any of you guys point me in the right direction of potentially removing/blocking up/ resolving these niggly problems and if they contribute to the car not wanting to fire??? Sorry for all the photos, but unsure where to start... any advice on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, JD
  11. The DVLA over in the UK needs to see the certification to ascertain that it is the car stated. I didnt get any paperwork with the car, no log book or anything, just the California plates on the car. The shipping/VAT has been paid my end when it came into the country, I just need the 'certificate of origin ' for them to register it here. thanks
  12. Hi guys, Ive recently imported a 1976 Nissan Datsun 280Z with California plates from the USA to the United Kingdom. I would like to know how to get a 'certificate or origin' from the USA so I can register it in the UK. Ive contacted Nissan USA but they have been rather unhelpful. 1976 Blue Datsun 280Z VIN: HLS303114422 California Plate Number: 5WVN339 Can anyone help me with previous experience?? Many thanks, JD
  13. Great, thanks, I dont mind the 'horsepower' behind, i just dont want to chuck it in and start bending valves! Cheers
  14. Thank guys, sorry have been away on work. Check out the link below, it has everything Im missing.. Wondering if this would be a straight swap.... What do you guys think? Many thanks JD http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1983-Datsun-280ZX-Turbo-Camshaft-Clean-Nice-with-Sprocket-/222640225402?hash=item33d6643c7a:g:fL4AAOSwa4FZtH
  15. Hi all, Im currently reconditioning my L28e N42 in my 1976 280Z and have a bit of a problem. I took my head in to get re-conditioned, and i left my original camshaft with cam towers and chain sprocket in the boot of my daily driver, Rover P5b Coupe, which has since been stolen last week!!! So basically Im in need of a new camshaft but means i still need the towers/sprocket/bolts too. There is a Turbo Camshaft with towers on eBay which supplies all my needs, Im wondering if that will be a straight swap????. Ive had a look through forums and understand there is a difference between NA and Turbo camshafts however im wondering will the turbo one still work with none/minor tinkering?? Im trying not to over spend by getting a worked cam and then paying through the nose for the towers and sprocket which are very hard to source, especially that I live in the UK. Any advice would be great, or if you have a spare cam/towers/sprocket that works even better Cheers JD
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