Leaderboard

I'll definitely be going this year. Lots of work to do to get it ready to make that trip, but will hopefully driving a Z. The current state of affairs...

Never heard that one before, funny! Pretty sure I would be considered an optimist. Next the psychiatrist took the optimist to a room piled highwith horse manure. The boy yelped with delight, clamberedto the top of the pile, and joyfully dug out scoop after scoop,tossing the manure into the air with glee. "What on earth are you doing?" the psychiatrist asked. "Well,” said the boy, beaming "...there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!"

Time to rebuild the engine in my 72 240 Z. Thought someone may know of parts "check list" that has been created (with or w/o Nissan part numbers) for L24 engine rebuild? I am looking to acquire parts, and once all parts have been secured (checked off the list), THEN perform the rebuild. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

We've run this problem up the flag pole in the past. It's not uncommon. First and foremost be sure the clutch is releasing all the way. If the clutch pedal releases and engages the clutch down close to floor, the hydraulics may be suspect. If hydraulics can be ruled out, the next suspected cause and or cure could be gear oil. Many opinions on which one is best. In my notes from the last conversation, I have A/C Delco Friction Modified Gear Oil (recommended by @Zup) as the one that I'm going to try next. I'd try that before the dreaded trans tear down. Let us know the results if you try it.

Here's the version I had heard: A man was walking by the blacksmith's shop and saw a boy madly digging into a large pile of horse manure, flinging it everywhere. He called out to the boy "Young man, why are you digging in that pile of manure?". The boy stopped and replied "Mister, with that much horse $^!# in one place, there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!".

Surprise, a really neat member sent me a donation for part of the clutch repair. I'm astonished, this is so gerat. Thank you my friend! Just thought you all might enjoy hearing this super news. I'm blessed. Jai

Duly noted.....

I'll 2nd that! Very nice..

I'll add this to Cliff's list ....

Thanks I had read that somewhere already.. I see that you used it and it worked well I have some on the way to use till I can get some OE Nissan/Datsun ones.. anyone here know where they can be found? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I actually still haven't done mine yet, I have been working on other bits. (I know I posted this thread forever ago) I know somebody that is going to make a tutorial of a redo so right now I'm just waiting on that. My door panels were not in terrible condition, just a few small rips here and there. The tops were peeling up pretty bad from the sun beating on them. While taking them off the car I tore the card itself were the clips go, that could be avoided by just slowing down while taking them off. Taking the vinal off wasn't too bad accept for where it got stapled into the metal bit on top, that took some time and a few cuts on my hands. Once I got the vinal off there was a bit of rust on the metal piece on the top so I just went over that with some steel wool. I'll let you know when that tutorial comes out.

Sounds like you are in a repair or replace situation with your Headlight switch. There are quite a few threads here on how to clean/refurbish your 280 headlight and turn signal arms. Just do a quick search. There is also a fellow, Dave Irwin, that does a very good job of restoring these and other Z electrical parts. You can find him on Facebook. There are plastic components in the Headlight and Turn signal arms. Pushing harder is usually not recommended thus the possibility of the need for replacement. Good Luck!

I like all your ideas and I have seen hundreds of those bats up close and personal. If someone is looking for an early ash tray, I think I have two or three somewhere.

AAUUUHHHMMMM----(drumroll) Z-bay Feedback score: 10 "As described, a perfect part, well packaged and all with extremely fast shipping!" Yes-- I would definitely buy from this trusted seller again!! AAAA++++ All that aside, Jim @jfa.series1 sent me this photo of the "before" of the flow guide: Compare this to the finished article offered above and you might agree with me that this is Alchemy. Thanks Jim! Zup

Thanks you Sir. Just received Pictures of those Seat brackets I made for first test fitment. Looks like these got the green light for fitment. Thank You newtonhubcap for your help with these!

At the DMV today

Well, she's home. I'll head to the DMV first thing in the morning to try and get the registration all taken care of. It was a long day of driving back and forth, but worth it. The car is a really solid, honest car. The seller had the undercarriage steam cleaned which is why it photographed so well. The paint looks to have been polished some, but I don't see any spots where they burned through. It is definitely a time capsule, and will need some cleanup. Seller didn't have both plates on hand, said he'd find the other one and mail it to me. No service history, but i guess you can't have everything. Turn signal switch not working, not sure if the DMV will test them or not. I've already found a rare restoration part that I'm hoping to go pick up tomorrow which I'll share once I've secured it. I guess the protocol would probably be to start a new thread over in the S30 section about build progress.

I had the winning bid. This is my first Z car. After looking for a couple of years, I figured I'd better jump in before I couldn't afford it anymore. I'm excited to get it home and get it ready for summer if this damn rain will ever stop!

If you've already done this, then ignore. I would fill up the radiator until you can visibly see coolant at the top of the hole. Perhaps even run the engine as you are adding coolant. Once you know for sure it is full put the radiator cap back on. Get a flashlight if needed and check everywhere for leaks. The upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat housing, water pump area, and the hoses that run from the radiator along the passenger side into that obnoxious 3 way thermo splitter before going into the cab to the heater core. If you can't see any leaks, turn it off and check for coolant in the oil. Sent from my N9130 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you do get the opportunity to get on track with your car you won't regret it Its the most fun you can have with your clothes on!

I'm confused, Blue. You start off by mentioning '240z Canadian Jan 1971' and ' date codes in the car are Dec-Jan 70/71', but then you say, 'there is no split in the back deck carpet as the 01/1970 had the plastic storage bins behind the seats'. And then the pix that follow right afterwards are labeled, "240Z Jan 1971" but they show a back deck carpet with no split. Would I be correct in saying that your first set of photos are mislabeled and should, in fact, say: '240Z Jan 1970', while the text preamble should say, '240z Canadian Jan 1970' and 'date codes in the car are Dec-Jan 69/70' ? Also, I have a question (for you, or for others) that the photos don't directly address: Did all of the early cars (i.e. cars with the plastic storage bins behind the seats) use the rubber underlay sheet in the back deck area in place of the jute pad underlay that appeared at some later point? Let me put that another way, so you'll see what I'm getting at: Did the jute pad underlay in the back deck area arrive in conjunction with the relocation of the storage areas from behind the seats to underneath the deck floor, or did the jute replace the rubber underlay at some point while the storage areas were still located behind the seats? My car is a 5/70 and was purchased with both carpet and underlay missing from the hatch and the front floor areas, so I need to figure out what should go in those locations.

In 1970, we didn't have "choice of color" when our name came up on the waiting list. We were fortunate to get a #918 orange car, which was fine, but the color we really coveted was #919 Sunshine Yellow. We have now purchased another early 1970 Z in process of restoration which, 41 years later, will finally enable us to fulfill our desire. The question is: will it be possible to re-create the actual, original Sunshine Yellow after all this time? I haven't seen a Z that color in YEARS. Are there resources that can track down the original "recipe" or formula for a particular obsolete color? That failing, is there another more recent yellow which is practically identical? I'm thinking along the lines of a canary yellow or lemon yellow, as opposed to a "traffic yellow;" that is, something of a softer tone than one of those which hints of an orange cast. I've seen some nice yellows on VW Bugs, earlier Corvettes, Mustangs from a few years back, and maybe others, but I have no way of establishing how well they would match or compare with the original Sunshine Yellow on the Z. Thanks and All Z Best,.......................Kathy & Rick

You could write a book on painting cars and it would barely answer your questions. Painting the engine bay is no different than painting the outside of the car. You prep it the same, use the same stuff, and use the same method. On the Z, you would normally use the same color paint as well, so whatever you are doing for the outside base/clear maybe, you would use on the engine bay. If you are just using a 1 stage paint, or going all black in the engine bay you would use an enamel most likely. Best thing to do is talk to your local paint shop on what you would need. Each paint process has it's own chemicals, cleaners, reducers, hardeners, etc.. A good gun is going to cost you $400 at least. Sata and Devilbiss are the two most popular that I know of. I've used a Sata quite a bit, it's a real nice gun. Most pro painters will use separate guns for primer, base, and clear. You can get by with one but you've got to make sure you take it apart and clean it real well between applications.