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Kats, A small correction if I may: What happened was that Nissan used the MK63-20S on its Works race cars right from the beginning, including the first official race entry for an S30-series Z when the Works 432-R entered the All Japan Suzuka 300km race on 18th January 1970 (that famous no.68 car used on so much of the 432-R specific literature). Nissan actually used the technique of 'back homologation' to legalise the calipers for race use. They applied for the evolution in June 1970, but backdated the amendment to be valid from 10th January 1970 - hence covering all the races they had already entered up to that point, including the 432-Rs first race:

Thanks to you Kats!! You Sir, are the best! You have filled in all the missing information with your perfect documentation. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Jim D. "Zup"

The point about the 280 is that they are built a little stronger, more refined if you will, than a 240 and like Hardway mentioned, more plentiful therefore currently less money than a 240. You'll get essentially the same experience driving any Z of that era compared to todays standard including the lack of safety. I wouldn't say 240s are classier. They are a little quicker and snappier, but they still aren't a GTR. Neither is a 260 or a 280. I appreciate your want. Everybody here on this forum has it. We wallow in it on a daily basis. I encourage you to scratch the Z itch but do it with a little forethought. Have something you can depend on and drive in rain also. The fact of the matter is that almost all of us have a modern(ish) vehicle to DD (mine is Toyota Highlander) and these Z' are a passion to us. Safety is one of those things that seem's to come to mind right about the time you realize you have responsibilities to someone other than yourself. If your girlfriend gets a title change, that's something to think about. Now if you'll excuse me, there seem's to be kids in my yard that need runnin' off…..

Thanks for the update Zup. I have sent request for a quote to a local sheet metal fab shop and used your picture and drawing as reference. I have asked for an initial quote of 100 clips in stainless steel and they said that would not be a problem. Since a car takes 4 clips that would be 25 sets. I will keep everyone posted as I get more info from them.

Hi Alan, thank you for correcting me, I thought it was funny, but now I know the racing cars had MK63 from the begging! Fantastic informations, it is like a library. Kats

How it's made. I think measuring tape could be stock.

I had some time to dig around in the garage and found some spring nuts as Nissan calls them. I believe this kind of hardware is very common, we just need to know the dimensions of the OEM pieces. Once this is known, a suitable replacement can surely be located. No need to have these fab'd up. Below are some pictures of what I found in my stash. I probably have more in other places but this should help. US nickel for reference.

Fluke 115, because it's cheap but high quality. The tachometer function of some of the other meters is nice. You can use the Hz function on the 115 though and do some math to calculate engine RPM if you need to. The Fluke 88 is designed for automotive. Fluke makes nice stuff.

simpson 260

That's interesting. I've never seen one of those before.

I have an older fancy Fluke and a couple simple Craftsman meters. I also have an older Craftsman meter device to check RPM, dwell, etc. I usually use the simple Craftsman. Sometimes to check voltage I use one of those light bulbs built into a pointy screwdriver things. My gf has an old SImpson analog meter like my dad used to use at work. Chuck

Well... 2 years passed again quickly, and the invitation for the road check ( APK ) showed up on the doormat again. It failed on the rear left drum brake ( I guess from sitting still during storage, because I rebuild the brakes nog so long ago ), so took it apart, but eventually with some searching I found a new main seal and it worked again. Passed for another 2 years ! Now the next one is in 2019, then the next one would be in 2021 but since new regulation coming into place in May 2018 about classic cars beeing 50 years and older are free of road check forever, I might have luck 2019 is the last time she needs to go for the road check. The car is back in storage now, I hope the weather gets better soon, but as it looks now, end of april.. she will sleep at least another 2 months

Fluke 77

MIND BLOWN!!! Thank you Kats for adding the detail to the pictures. The nut spring 08961-43210 looks like a fairly common piece. In fact, I think I have some that came with a body hardware kit for something. I will have to look tomorrow after work. I should hopefully have the quote for the clips from the fab shop tomorrow. I will keep everyone posted.

I won't be using any urethane bushings on my build. By the way take good care of that splash pan. They are hard to find in that kind of condition and priced accordingly

This is what is on my spare. I think it's original.

Your Miata is a Miata. It is and always will be a roadster. That said, it comes down to what you want to deal with on a daily basis. If your girlfriend gets upgraded to wife then it will also become a question of what she will be willing to deal with on a regular basis while still supporting your love of cars. No matter your age, there is something to be said for having something comfortable, reliable, and safe as a daily driver. As Psdenno said, back when the classic Z's were common, SUV's and everyone texting did not exist. It sounds like you really want a classic Z so I say save your money and get one. Use it as a daily and see what happens. There is a guy named Robert Jackson that has been posting up on the various Datsun and Z Facebook pages. He just bought five 240z's this week. Yes, FIVE! They are all 4's and 5's on a scale of 1-10 but he is planning to resell or auction some and build one or two. Try dropping him a line on FB. Since you are in Houston, he is in Oklahoma, it would not be an impossible trip to make. Or, just keep watching the Houston, Dallas, Austin, San Antonio CL and all the other Datsun and Z classified pages. Not sure what your fab skills are like but the best advice, buy the cleaned body you can find. Everything else is pretty easy to acquire and since you want a bare bones car, interior condition may be a non-issue. Going back to your original question, 240z, 260z, 280z. Buy the one in best condition regardless of what it is. If you really REALLY want a 240z, better save and keep your cash on you because when they pop up for any kind of reasonable price they go quick. Be willing to travel and if possible, have access to a truck and trailer. Some of the best deals on 240z's are on the ones that do not run, ask Robert Jackson. 260z's and 280z's offer more value just for the fact they are not as expensive while delivering 95% of the fun factor of a 240z. Keep us posted on your hunt and if you find one of interest.

You're well come, here are pictures which note added Kats

If I only had a pair of bushings from which to take measurements.....

Lots of people think no thermostat is the way to go, but engineers are smarter than most people give them credit for... At least some are... By the looks of the color in the housing you could use some good antifreeze in it too, to prevent the block from rusting...

Ah Greg, so funny. Some idiot has parked their car in front of my house for two days. I've got a hand full of sheet rock screws I think it needs for better traction.

The middle pic is a cover recently rescued from a parts car and not yet subjected to my tender touches of cleaning and polishing. The bottom pic is another rescue, now thoroughly cleaned and polished, soon to be marketed to fellow enthusiasts.

Hi Jim, I need to look and think carefully. Chris, I leaned "Hoover" , thank you. Can I say Hoover for a person who eats a lot? The foam (Packing 90827-E4100) was already attached ,and the yellow zinc speed nuts (Nut spring 08961-43210) were already attached too. I think the speed nut (08961-43210) , it`s role is to combine two plastic duct part in one. And, Nissan might intent the speed nut catches the pin of the outer grill, but I doubt like Jim, looking at my spare duct, the speed nut needs to be bent more for better catching. But still I do not know it can. Then ,the whole duct assy needs a black barrel crip (CLIP tail gate ventilator 90829-E4100) to secure the assy on the top outside of the hatch opening surface. Also, the outer grill trim needs tubular clip (CLIP tubular 63845-18000) to secure it on the tail gate,( or secure with the barrel clip) but this is not mentioned on the parts catalog. My Blue 240Z and Z432 both have same method, tubular clip for secureing the outer grill. Please see attached pictures, the earliest Fairlady-Z parts catalog does not list all of the hardware which required . 1972 issued one describes much better, on the other hand, the early DATSUN 240Z parts catalog does not describe correctly, even it says secure the outer grill with the tapping screw ! Kats PS About 5th picture, #14 barrel crip (90829-E4100) and #40 speed nut (08961-43210) they should be switched their location each other in the diagram.

Thank you Mr Arnett! The caps look to be the same, just different sealing methods. I'll sleep good tonight now that I know the difference. Are you storing that one cover at the bottom of the river? Just kidding. Thank you for taking the time to show the difference to me/us. Cliff

Automobile safety has come a long way in the 47 years since the early Zs appeared. When I got mine in 1971 there were no Mom Vans, SUVs, Hummers, F150 pick ups, or other daily driver land barges. I only had to avoid semi trucks on the freeway and delivery trucks in town to stand a chance in an accident. Easy. Now, a Z is considered to be a fairly small lightweight car that won't do well in an accident, unless it hits another Z. Your Miata without airbags is in the same boat. An acquaintance and his Miata were in an accident with a truck and the truck ended up on the Miata driver's lap. He never thought about buying another small car. By the time you buy a nice Z and upgrade and modify it the way you described, you'll be very close to the same money that would buy a fun to drive, relatively safe, FRS/BRZ. It's one of those "pay your money and take your chances" choices. My daily driver is a 4 wheel drive truck and my '71 240Z, '70 Porsche 914-6, and '63 Studebaker Avanti are for occasional use. Dennis

A quick post showing some more of our parts inventory. This is some of the stuff I pulled off of the L24 that the car came with, as well as some of the things I've mentioned previously. These will get cleaned, evaluated, and boxed for later. ^ Needs replacing. Gonna try to avoid buying any more parts before mid-March, so we'll focus on what we have going for now.

I was wrong about the o-ring on the 12/71 car. I recalled the groove and thought of o-ring. Here's a sequence starting with my car: 1st pic - 12/70 car, o-ring set into the groove, OIL cap with no seal ring 2nd pic - 12/71 car, open groove, elephant cap with seal gasket ring 3rd pic - 07/72 car, no groove, elephant cap with seal gasket ring Hope this helps explain some of the changes.

Sorry. I haven't needed to open up the headlight switch, so I couldn't tell you.

I drive my '78 280Z everyday 40+miles. The car is made to be driven. Unless you are at the level to keep a garage 'queen' , just drive the thing and enjoy it. Fuel injection was made for reliability. Did I mention I DD mine in DFW traffic everyday, except some rainy ones? It starts everytime I turn the key, AC still blows cold(Lord, please let it last!), it has never over heated with the stock cooling system, and I still smile each time I get in it. I feel like I know every inch of it by now.

The first is a picture of the 00029 car in the 70's racing at Indianapolis Raceway Park and the other is in the early 80's the 00029 car in IMSA set up. The engine is out in the second photo and the springs all the way up for trailering but you get the picture. I recently tried to buy the car back with no luck. Enjoy the photos. jlp

I'm looking forward to the primer stage. The metal looks ugly like this!

Hi friends, The gas lines are replaced! Good timing too, the gas leak had gotten worse with Redbird sitting immobile since parked, after being towed home. It was now visibly dripping. Glad I had not driven her when she did start, while waiting for the lines to be replaced. Phew! Michael worked his magic last night, and they're done. Forgot, the new clamps that were suggested - 1/2" X 9/16" - were too small. They would not go on, could not be used. So Michael had to replace the old ones. So if you all do this job, use the slightly larger clamps. But it was late and he didn't get to the spark plugs. So I'm hoping my son will get well soon and do them, open and pull the ECU to check the connectors plus Deoxit them, (my body will not contort into that position) and replace the fuel filter too. In the meantime, I'll be checking the places pointed out to me, to make sure connections are secure, using Deoxit on all. Next is changing the oil. That's all folks, stay tuned! Jai

Made a little more progress tonight. I got the dash out. Woo-Hoo! I took lots of pics of the wiring as that is a bit funky under the steering column. Also took out the steering column, brake booster and clutch; so now the engine bay is stripped of parts. I think I just need to take off the rear view mirror and then I am ready to start body work. I will remove the instruments and harness from the dash and send that out to get repaired professionally. I will send that up to Just Dashes in Van Nuys. They did the dash on my orange 71 240 and it looks perfect. The brake booster looks ugly, but will clean up nicely. Here are a few pics.

Don't ruin it for me. I just have to get to the Goodwill to buy a VHS machine then find a copy of the movie.

Thanks Wheee! UPDATE: unable to update my main post so this post is the most up to date information regarding pricing and purchasing. Attached are pictures of the tie in/support plates I was talking about previously. They show what they look like and where they go on the car. These plates are what the rockers mainly weld onto so it is important that these are in good shape when you are doing a repair of the rockers. These plates are made from 20g CRS and is similar in thickness to the factory material. Pricing: $380.00 shipped for a set of Rockers (as of this post date, I have a pair ready to ship out, send me a pm for details if interested) $450 shipped for a set of Rockers + set of front end tie in plates + set of rear end tie in plates. Please let me know if your interested. I am now making these upon request, allow me about one week to make a set before shipping.

I love BMW inline sixes and currently own 4 different BMW's with sixes. The engine is bullet proof because it has been around for years and an M motor makes great usable power. As I typed this though I had a thought. At one time our Z's were a dime a dozen now a number of years later they are starting to appreciate in value. If you keep your car whole and wait for all the other guys to part or crash their cars, yours will appreciate. I hate to see a nice car parted unless its a rusted out hulk...the same way I hate to see a classic Z parted or crushed... Charles