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I'm trying to pick up myself. What you didn't see was the one behind me. Not as good shape but still a decent car. This one is an automatic early Gen. The current owner owns the Nissan dealer in the area. The car has been stitting in the backlot for about 10 years from what I understand. A friend of mine knows the General Manager, so I am woking through it. Its probably going to b a long process, with much persistence on my part.

I'm pretty sure the black writing on the tags is a painted on stencil. Aggressive cleaning with harsh a substance can remove all the black paint leaving just the stamped numbers. Just a possibility. I learned this when trying to clean some overspray off of one, and found the cleaner I was using was starting to take the writing off as well.

When setting doors, I do it the other way. I get the door on the car, then I set the fenders and get the door aligned well with the fender and "A" pillar. Then I check the rear alignment. The door can be twisted to make the rear edge correct. There are not many options to adjust the door fender alignment. Shim the hinges or shim the fender, but the curvature and the detail line are set. So the door needs to line up with those. The only rear adjustments for the rear of the doors are some minor fore/aft adjustment, some up/down adjustment and depth of closure based on the strike location. My passenger side door is on the car and adjusted currently and you can tell there is no gasket in it. It clunks around with lots of free movement. If you don't have that, then the gasket will never work.

This is from my 12/70 build car:

That 2X speed is really unnerving. Sounds great though! Sounds angry! I suspect your Z is like most of the other 280Z's out there with a multitude of little issues that add up until it becomes a big enough of an issue to cause a problem. Things like dirty/worn/damaged/broken electrical connectors, vacuum leaks, previous owner's modifications, etc. And most of the electrical connection issues can be intermittent and come back at the most inopportune time. All that wiggling you did to the wires leading to the thermostat housing... None of that wiggling should have any effect. And if there IS an effect, you have questionable connections that need to be addressed. There should be no effect caused by wiggling anything going to the thermostat housing, the AFM, any of the injectors, or the fusible links. Here's hoping you put a nail in it, but just remember... If you have time to work on the car, clean or replace some connectors.

Try Amazon? https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-50304-Transmission-Transaxle/dp/B000CPCBEQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=redline+mt90&qid=1551223687&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Probably just enough difference in the copy from the original so as to not rub suppliers fur the wrong way and get into infringements.

Highly doubtful Nissan would have kept such records for this long. You'd have better luck finding out how many total cannon balls were fired by the Confederacy at Gettysburg.

Several years ago, I posted on here the design of an Optima bracket I made. I have never tried it with a regular battery, but I don't see why it wouldn't work exactly the same with a few simple mods. It doesn't look stock like yours, but it was pretty simple to make. I have one in my street car and another in my race car.

Me too. Purchased it in Phoenix during ZCON 2012 after a rock hit on the way down. Still in good shape, other than the usual sand blasting from the roads around here. FW241 is the part number. Poor glass guy that did the install had to do it in full sun out in the farthest corner of the Hotel parking lot. He was told before that he could not do any work inside the parkaid. Poor bastard. I stood in the shade of his van while he toiled. Total pro, I gave him a hell of a tip.