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Woot! My yellow 240z was recently featured in the VTO Wheels Customer Spotlight! I was wondering why Alex wanted me to take some photos of the car.. Anyone notice the cat posing for the photo? His name is Mr Banks and will sign autographs. 🙂 Thanks @VTOwheels Mike PS: One correction, I am running Tokico Illumina adjustable struts (it says I am running stock struts). p{ margin:10px 0; padding:0; } table{ border-collapse:collapse; } h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6{ display:block; margin:0; padding:0; } img,a img{ border:0; height:auto; outline:none; text-decoration:none; } body,#bodyTable,#bodyCell{ height:100%; margin:0; padding:0; width:100%; } .mcnPreviewText{ display:none !important; } #outlook a{ padding:0; } img{ -ms-interpolation-mode:bicubic; } table{ mso-table-lspace:0pt; mso-table-rspace:0pt; } .ReadMsgBody{ width:100%; } .ExternalClass{ width:100%; } p,a,li,td,blockquote{ mso-line-height-rule:exactly; } a[href^=tel],a[href^=sms]{ color:inherit; cursor:default; text-decoration:none; } p,a,li,td,body,table,blockquote{ -ms-text-size-adjust:100%; -webkit-text-size-adjust:100%; } .ExternalClass,.ExternalClass p,.ExternalClass td,.ExternalClass div,.ExternalClass span,.ExternalClass font{ line-height:100%; 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line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .headerContainer .mcnTextContent,.headerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .bodyContainer .mcnTextContent,.bodyContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:16px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } @media only screen and (max-width: 480px){ .footerContainer .mcnTextContent,.footerContainer .mcnTextContent p{ font-size:14px !important; line-height:150% !important; } } *|MC_PREVIEW_TEXT|* Customer Spotlight Mike Gholson of the Classic Zcar Club knows wheel fitment is key to getting the look that makes his car stand out. Mike came to VTO Wheels because he knew our fitment and customer service is the best in the industry. The VTO Classic 8 GTR 16"x7" wheels gives Mike's Z car a stylish finish, while the deeper lip gives a much more desirable and understated aggressive look. This yellow beauty is sitting on stock struts with Tokico springs that lower the car 1 inch. The VTO's are 0mm offset and wrapped in 205/55-16 BFG G-Force Sport 2 sticky rubber. No rubbing issues are reported, and the ride is said to be smooth and free of vibration. Thank you for your support, and please let VTO help you find the perfect fit for your next project, whatever the year, make, or model may be. Don't know what offset or bolt pattern to run? With us fitment doesn't have to be a guess! We will send you a wheel to test your fitment so you know that when you place an order, the fit will be perfect. Shop VTO Wheels Copyright © *|CURRENT_YEAR|* *|LIST:COMPANY|*, All rights reserved. *|IFNOT:ARCHIVE_PAGE|* *|LIST:DESCRIPTION|* Our mailing address is: *|HTML:LIST_ADDRESS_HTML|* *|END:IF|* Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list. *|IF:REWARDS|* *|HTML:REWARDS|* *|END:IF|*

I have been encouraged to start a build thread about my restoration of HLS30U-00026 so here goes. I started many, many years ago, as most of you know, and got sidelined during the depression in 2008 which lasted for me until 2014 or so. Although I managed to carry on with my involvement in the Z community over the past decade, the cars have been pretty much sitting in storage and very little work has been done. Then about a year ago, I got back into it and started sorting through my stuff, creating little projects and slowly stepping back into the restoration. A month ago, I talked to the guy who is doing all the paint and body work for Steve / Twin Cam Sportscars. Steve's business / shop is right around the corner from my shop and I have known Steve forever. You may recall that Twin Cam Sportscars helped with the restoration of Classic Motorsports magazine's Lotus Elan that appeared at Amelia Island. I started the work on the chassis years ago with another body shop that associated with Twin Cam, "Beautiful Bodies", but he went out of business during the depression. Now its Kim / After Hours Racing who agreed to take on the partially completed chassis. And here is where we are today...

rturbo 930, Well, it IS a big deal. Its a Gold Medallion car, the car used for Mr. K's induction into the Hall of Fame, restored by the guy who wrote the book, detailed by a leading authority, and campaigned heavily. It will forever be the Franklin Mint car and will draw a crowd at car shows. Its called provenance. I personally share your thoughts, but the provenance thing is ruling (like the idea of value for a car Steve McQueen once drove).

Mission accomplished

I was one of the first people to use the 123 ignition on a Z and I have been running this setup since 2015. I concur that the setup and install instructions are lacking and I too experienced an advanced timing situation after the initial "LED Install" procedure but unfortunately did not realize this for quite some time so I was running more advanced that I originally thought. Fortunately nothing catastrophic happened to my engine and I was able to correct this by checking the initial settings with a timing light. Although the 123 people indicated in their emails to the OP that timing should always be checked with a light, I have not seen that written in any of their instructions although it is possible that I might have missed it. One other issue that I have had with the 123 ignition is that periodically my car will refuse to start or it does start but does not run correctly (misfires) and the only thing that solves the issue is to replace the rotor. I was never able to completely figure out the cause of this or why the rotor just seemed to randomly "go bad" until I read through this thread and subsequently did some additional research. As it turns out, I also run an MSD with my ignition and when I was first considering the 123 distributor, I found a warning on their website that said not to use the 123 system with an MSD ignition. I did not understand the engineering reasoning behind this so I contacted the company directly to find out a little more. Their engineers told me that they already had customers using their product with an MSD with no issues being reported and so they really didn't seem to know why that warning was there. They basically told me that it should work without issues. Well fast forward to today and after a little more research I found the root cause of the problem. I happened to stumble on a Triumph TR site where the OP had a similar problem on a 123 ignition although in this case the rotor was actually burned. This led me to another thread on a forum called Pelican Parts and they apparently specialize in parts for older European cars. Well as it turns out, the engineers at 123 chose a readily available, off the shelf distributor where they could house their electronics and just change the drive mechanism to work with numerous different cars. So the cap and rotor, and I suspect even the dizzy body itself was very widely used in VW's, BMW's, Volvo's, etc of the late 60's going through the early 80's. Well during this time, the EU apparently was focused on RFI suppression in newer cars and mandated that auto electronics include RFI suppression hardware. I do not know exactly when this was mandated but I believe it was sometime in the 70's. Well believe it or not this mandate resulted in the inclusion of a resistor in the distributor rotor that sits between the center contact and the end contact. What I learned from the Pelican Parts forum (where a lot of these guys use this same cap and rotor setup as the 123 ignition as that's what the car originally came with) but they have also upgraded to MSD. Unfortunately these rotors with the internal resistors were designed and used at a time when ignition systems were not as powerful as today's systems, including MSD, and so the higher output power of the MSD essentially burns out the resistors over time. I must admit that I thought this seemed rather absurd as I had never heard of such a thing, but I happened to have a number of rotors that had "gone bad" so I decided to do my own checking. Well sure enough when I checked continuity between the center and end conductors, it was a total open! I really couldn't believe what I was seeing so I used a Dremel to cut away at the epoxy and sure enough buried under the epoxy and between the 2 conductors was a burned out resistor. The solution that I also found on the Pelican Parts forum was the Dremel out the epoxy and resistor and simply solder in a 12 gauge piece of wire to replace the resistor, and then simply use JB weld or some other suitable epoxy to seal it back up. You can find more info about this here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/596559-msd-rotor-modification-detail.html Ironically, 123 Ignition now also sells a modified rotor that replaces the resistor with a wire: https://123ignitionusa.com/oem-rotor-modified-no-resistor-for-all-4-and-6-cyl-123-applications/ $45 for a rotor seemed a little excessive to me so I purchased a couple of Bosch rotors (p/n 04008) and did the mod myself. A little tedious but definitely better than paying $45. So after 4+ years of dealing with this random problem I believe it is finally solved. I will also say that despite some of the startup issues that I and others have had with the 123 system, I am very satisfied with the end result and would not hesitate to use this again. Fortunately my experience with the company and the product was a little more positive than the OP. I hope this helps others that may have experienced the same issue and that I've saved you from pulling your hair out as well. Mike.

Ireland; Roads. Incredible. Go. PS. Buy life insurance first... oh yeah, The scenery's ok too.

Thanks for all the great replys. I drove 26th for years before I took her apart to restore. I consider her 'my car' and as such do not intend to restore her to stock because I intend to drive her. I have 27th to restore stock. That's the plan. Both cars are originally 907 racing green with tan interiors. They will be restored that way. 26th is going to get my competition 5 speed and some other nice period correct do-dads like headlight covers and Watanabe wheels. I'm toying with the idea of recreating the tan interior for 26th in leather. Something like what Len Welch did. So today I have a tale of two radiators. I had the radiator for 26th re-cored some time ago and it has been sitting on a shelf in storage. I took the radiator out of 27th to find it damaged and had it repaired last week. My, what has happened to the price of copper and brass! The radiator for 27th also needed a replacement bottom and before I knew it, the radiator for 26th had a new bottom pipe replaced. All painted and cleaned up. New overflow hoses and I have ordered repro decals for both from Banzai.

NO straight roads. All perfect pavement. Could never drive every road. Too many, every one is tight narrow twisty, bounded by rock or bush RIGHT there at your mirrors and rims. Lots of on-coming traffic, including trucks, makes for continuous butt clinching, challenge filled driving. Glorious! Only downside is the passenger's constant screaming and pleading for mercy.

Knowing I needed to do something about the super loud exhaust, I set about a temporary solution to connect the new header to the existing exhaust pipe. This is so I could finish filling it with coolant, purge any air, and be in a position to drive it to the exhaust shop for something more permanent. I bought some 2.5 inch flexible exhaust tubing at the parts store and trimmed it to fit the oval shaped opening and around the O2 bung. Once I was close I closed the hole with some HVAC metal tape. Not leak proof by any means but sure quietened things down some. My wife helped me put the hood back on and I got the cooling system filled. With so much accomplished I decided a quick jaunt down the street was in order. The clutch action felt really good, brakes worked, the engine ran and rev'd great through the first three gears. I was honestly shocked as I expected coughing and sputtering from the carbs until they were tuned. After almost a year, it is back! All in all, I am super happy to have it back together and running again. I hope to get it to the exhaust shop next weekend or earlier and start tuning the carbs some. Stay tuned!

Okay I have everything put back together so will go get 10gal of gas tomorrow morning and see if I can get it running, I got all the signals, lights and engine running well before I tore down so if I'm lucky ... I'll shoot a little video if all goes well.

Picked up the fenders, fuel door and hinges yesterday from paint shop. Fenders are just resting in place. Will probably wait till engine is done before I do actual install. Also got the last of my plated items. Will get most of the plated items on the engine tomorrow.

Hi all, I just created a new forum under chatterbox dedicated to build threads. I noticed there are a lot of these threads going on and we should have a dedicated forum just for this purpose. If you have a ongoing project updates, I highly recommend putting adding your topic to this forum so it's easier to find. I did some searching for build threads and moved a few of them into ths forum, but, I'm sure there are others that still need to be moved. If you have one going, please let me know via PM if you want me to move it. Thanks! Here's a direct link to the forum: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/184-build-threads/ Mike

Hey Gav, You can get the service Manual / Schematics / parts list for the Hitachi TM-1081ZB here: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/hitachi_tm-1081-zb_all_transistor_auto_radio_1970_sm.pdf If you need any further support regarding the electronics repairs, you can ask me. I'm a former audio-/Video electrician with a couple of years daily experience in repairing old radios. Jus hit me up. i can guide you through the restauration of old electronics if needed. Preview pic only, click Link above for full file with all the pages.

So paint is done and finally starting to put her back together.

Well, I have some EXCELLENT news! While going through my files trying to find some other stuff, I ran into a box with my original 1971 radio and at the bottom of the box were these:

Fred here, Head Stock Judge for ZCCA. Although the "from the factory" is the way we judge, I was not aware we were taking off for this TSB issue. I will discuss with Todd and Chris. Also, I will look at the car in Branson for the double points for heat shields. As far as the delay in judging sheets, Todd took them home and I did not get them back for quite a while, sorry. Fred

One must accept: price is set by the whim of the purchasing population. prices increase with time and the value of some older items increases more than the values of others. price increases do not occur homogeneously across the full population of products. price increases do not occur homogeneously across geographical distributions. price increases do not always linearly scale with time. Pricing is bursty, price-growth is bursty, buyers are complex and independent entities who are wise, suckers, or carefree.

I am not sure it is a "complete random blip". Will be interesting to watch future high value cars. By the time I get my car done and running it will be too valuable to drive!

Yep, that's the place. It was called Revivations at the time. While all this body stuff was going on, I took the engine up to a machine shop in Tampa run by a guy named Tom and his son, Tommy. A real dirt track racers place, these guys were good machinists. The engine was cleaned and checked. The cylinders spec'd to standard bore. The crank shaft, fly wheel, and front pully were balanced together and Tom told me that I would notice the difference. The engine was way out of balance. The connecting rods were weight balanced and the original pistons were reinstalled with new wrist pins. Now, in spite of what you might think of my stockafied approach to what is correct and what is not, I'm not a huge fan of the "stock" HLS30 / 240Z. Great starting point, but... The engine was assembled (new freeze plugs) with a Schneider (mild) can and an Arizona Z adjustable timing sprocket. The combustion chambers in the head were cc'd and equaled. A competition front pulley was installed along with a competition oil pump. The early engines have an odd assortment of head bolt lengths and I was fortunate enough to find them new from Nissan. I'll bet they are all gone by now. Blue paint came from Banzai.

What I don't get is the little circus that about 3 or 4 people have on their between themselves? It reads like they're bidding as they want to to be the first to pay 100K. I think we should let them. A fool and his money are easily parted.

Nothing but Gated Garaged Vehicles !!! The thrill of driving stick always puts a huge grin on my face .... 1973 240z (Viper Dark Green Pearl), 2005 Ferrari F430 (Rubino Micalizzato-Burgundy Pearl), 2002 Ferrari F360 (Rossa Corsa-Red), 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (Red), 2010 370z (Black Cherry).

The NOS rear glass has been installed successfully, I am so happy with it . Mr. Tasaka , who is my friend and he restored my Z432 for the several car shows in Japan and ZCON 2014 did the installation job . He is very happy because the old glass is going to be on his Fairlady 240ZG awaiting full restoration by him , just for his pleasure. Also he has a white Z432 , has been sitting for a decade, half completed its restoration. Seems this old glass pushed his mind ahead and gained his passion for doing his own cars , I am also looking forward to seeing his cars ready for the road . I just can’t remove the label on the glass , well , the rain will sink into the paper and once it has softened , the wind will blow it off . Kats

Rotors are back from the machinist and new studs arrived for the hubs. I needed a 5mm spacer for the proper rotor offset. then I mounted the rotor and main brake caliper The clearance was perfect with 5mm taken off the rotor diameter. The pads are lined up perfect with the rotors. Then I mounted the park brake assembly and followed that with the spare wheel. This is where I ran into more trouble. The 50mm extended wheel studs are still too short for me to get more than 1/2” of grip with the lug nuts. I found a company selling 60mm studs, so I have ordered those. Soon... The car will be on it’s own wheels for the first time in 3 years!

Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20

Haha!! I could possibly be convinced to make more. You know they aren't metric though, right?

My DIY repair of the face plate , not perfect but I think it is OK for me . I really love Cray putty which is very easy to create shapes when I need . Kats

I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.

What do y'all think about spoons? I use one almost daily without poking my eyes out.

I am blown away by the quality and engineering that went into this Zcargarage BBK (big brake kit) The kit was designed by stoptech engineers and Zcargarage from the ground up for the Z. I am sort of a guinea pig to see if consumers can install this kit. They have amazing detailed 40 page instructions. Which in the car world is rare. I’m stoked to get them installed. Kit comes with everything needed to install and retains stock parking brake and MC. Fits 15x8 wheels as well! So light!

Just a teaser for now without much explanation but this could get very interesting! Will do a proper write up as to why and what when I finish the work ... 1/8” increments ... Webcam pointing into carb mouth Nice view ... Timing light with rev counter fixed in field of view for analysis, need to improve lighting ... Let the fun begin!! Ah, no! Children’s activities stopped play at the crucial moment! [emoji22]

This topic picks up on a mini-conversation that I started on Grannyknot's 280Z build thread. These little washers are an important part of the NVH isolation design for the Z's rear diff. The design, from an engineering perspective, is a lot more sophisticated than meets the eye, so there's an incentive to try to install a proper replacement if your own have deteriorated (which they probably have, if they're 50-year-old originals). Unfortunately, the part is NLA from Nissan and none of the primary Z restoration parts suppliers offer a substitute. There's been some discussion about the need to use vulcanized rubber. I think that's a red herring (look up, 'vulcanized') and was meant to infer that the rubber part needs to be bonded to the metal part. While the originals might have relied on a heat-bonding process, its now 2019 and we have aerospace adhesives for this purpose. So: All we really need is the rubber part. Steve / Nix240 has cobbledup a wide range of rpreviously unavailable rubber parts for our Z's. I see nothing special about re-creating the moustache bar runner washers, other than using a suitable durometer rubber and having access to a good-condition original to create a mold. After that, they could be bonder to a suitable metal washer and, presto, we have another part taken off the NLA list. I think these washers carry across the entire 240-26-280 series without any differences. Maybe even the ZX's? Also: I'm thinking that the same might be the case for the Series 1's diff front insulator. Steve creates the rubber piece, then the owner carves the perished rubber out of his insulator, cleans up the metal armature, and then bonds in the new rubber. @nix240z Steve: What do you think?

Ordered "Made in Canada" Clear front turn light Lens (Fathers Day). https://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z They will be used in HLS30-00147 (natural blue) as a tribute to the 1969 Tokyo Motor Show car. Now to find a radio antenna hole blank! Anyone have a pic? Found it!

Funny, I don't remember ever seeing that kind of money. I sure wish I hadn't sold the 1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70 now, if I had put a bit more detail into making it more stock who knows what it would go for these days. So I got the engine/tranny in today but before I did I thought I would weigh them, the engine by itself stripped down except for the mounts, no fluids was 304 lbs. With the flywheel, clutch pak, and transmission, 435 lbs, the chain and tackle were 8 lbs. The last pic is as far as I got by the end of the day, I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

Ok soggyfishtaco, I spent a lot of time going through Paul's invoices when I should have been working on customer's cars but here it is. Beginning in 9/93 I replaced a lot of parts and fasteners that were worn or incorrect. Remember, back then most of this stuff could still be had from Nissan. This is not meant to be a complete list, just some of the high lights Battery cables (2), radiator fasteners, distributor fasteners ( I still have a few factory screw sets), valve cover loom stands, oil pressure switch and voltage reg cover. I also did some routine maintenance. Someone had lifted the car without padding the lift arms so I also repaired some related damage/scuffs 5/94 saw the replacement of his dash, carpets, trans tunnel vinyl, heater control valve, horn relay, etc, etc, etc Several visits where I replaced things like headlamp assys which just didn't meet Paul's requirements, installed the correct radio brackets, etc Did a lot of intake/exhaust manifold detailing and other stuff which lead to the Gold Medallion at Atlanta Given that a restoration is never really finished the next several years up to 8/17 saw maintenance, left door hinges, a starter, left window reg, carb rebuild (Z Therapy did the throttle shafts and I did the rest) 8/17, final visit. He brought me an NOS air injection manifold and fuel rail which I installed with fresh factory gaskets and fasteners, etc Cheers

Well today is a milestone. The car is finally sitting on all four wheels with brakes attached and parking brake working! Some final shots after I filled the diff and greased the U joints.

I just haven't updated in 3 months! I spent a couple of days over the winter just chasing the threads on the entire car, such a treat now to screw in a freshly zincd bolts. Hoping to get the engine/trans in this weekend.

Today I arrived home from 1800km round trip in four days . I took my ZG for this journey, I must say “ ZG is the best partner for grand touring . If you have a properly tuned L24 with G-Nose , you would not want to have one more camshaft , nor one more carburetor. 😁 A fuel consumption is way better than Z432 . This time my ZG scored 13km per litter (30 mile per gallon ) when doing 100km/h (60m/h ) Highway driving . Quiet , stable , and powerful. My non-restored ZG still can go anytime anywhere . Hub caps stick to the wheels always ! Kats PS : I have a question , is this cigarette lighter cooperated with an illumination also equipped for export models after Sep 1971 ? Fairlady 240ZL / 240ZG and Z432 have the illuminated lighter .

My wife is reading a book The Blind Mechanic by Marilyn Davidson-Elliott (Nimbus Publishing) about a local celebrity who I never knew of: Eric Davidson. He was blinded in the Halifax Explosion at age 2 then went on to follow his love for cars. He was a master mechanic and could diagnose many cars by his attuned hearing. Here is a brief video of him:

Thanks Blue for the compliments!! My engine bay is actually toned down a little now from the way it was in Memphis. I've replaced my valve cover with one that is powder coated black, moved the breather to the back of the cover, and routed my wires around the front of the cover rather than over it. You see more of the engine that way and given that its black its easier on the eyes!! Haha! Here's an update picture.

Well here they are.......... Doesn’t look too difficult. I’ll take some pics of the installation.....maybe the Stroker motor won’t hurt these babies!

What do I do? Set up a 26th-Z thread on the build topic?

Oh thanks. I have been collecting parts for many, many years anticipating my restorations that I am just now getting to. I was well on my way with 26th when the economy fell apart in 2008 and everything went into storage. Now I'm back on track and spending time organizing my parts stash. 26th is on a rotisserie and I'm expecting her green before the end of the summer. Just now starting to take 27th apart. As I restore components for 26th, I'm pulling parts off 27th to restore at the same time. Just finished two perfect radiators from my collection of three. Will start posting pictures soon.

Gents, I wanted to let you know I fixed this problem. It was a new advertising option that I chose to join. I wanted to give it a try to bring in some extra money for the site, but, it looks like the ads didn't live up to their promises. Instead of giving us relevant ads, they simply started sending clickbait. I can't stand clickbait and won't subject this to you guys either. I have shut down the option so there should be no more clickbait traffic coming through the notification system. Please let me know if you see any more of these pop ups and I'll pick up my virtual hammer and start swinging it around... Mike

I believe that title date has more to do with delivery date than build date. My car is #6521, also a 7/70. My warranty book shows a delivery date of Aug. 28/70 and is registered as a 1970. If yours had a delivery date into Sep. '70 or later, it may explain why it was registered as a '71. Either way it is a first year S30. For ref. here is the ID page from my warranty book.

I can hear it now. "Back in the day, you could pick up a good rolling shell for $1000. I remember one in Raleigh. I had enough parts to finish it too".

Are you talking about this forum? If so, you might want to reserve your opinion until you are a little better acquainted with it.

What you have beed told is completely wrong - - All automobile manufacturers issue an MSO, it is the document which is used to transfer ownership from the Manufacturer to the Distributor or Dealer. The Dealers must have the MSO in order to get financing for the cost of their inventory, plus any property insurance. Then it is used as the necessary documentation for any/all States to issue a Ownership Title to the first Retail Customer. This process goes way back to the 50's.

Thanks @Captain Obvious...got those washers inverted. Thanks also @Zup and @Terrapin Z for the parts. Things are coming together here. Will get those non-brass/copper parts plated.

I would agree with the likelihood pointing to that. Don't forget though that the seller says he took it off his new GS31, which points to a production date on, or after, mid 1976. Some may find that a reason to mistrust it as a reference for earlier cars. You think he refurbed the wood composite, but didn't bother to strip and repaint the spokes? I think its the original (Izumi) factory finish. Not to add weight to your argument, but here's one of the brochure images for the mid-'76 up S31-series cars in Japan. I have no evidence to support the theory, but I have a hunch that they might well have used specially made 'blond' steering wheels for brochures and advertising, simply because they showed up better for contrast than the production items:

Happy Memorial Day and much thanks to all that served and continue to serve this beautiful country of ours! Thank You.