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The purpose of this thread is to discuss Z-cars at Concours events. I know that individual Concours events have been mentioned here on classiczcars.com, but I was hoping to set up a thread that might encompass all of them so that the subject is not so scattered. The goal is to have a Concours thread where people could offer tips, voice their thoughts and opinions, promote local Concours events, and of course show some awesome pictures. First off, entering your Z car in a Concours show is really a mixed bag for us Z owners. I remember excitedly talking with bobc about this subject the first time I was accepted into a Concours show. With sage advice, he told me not to get too excited about it. He told me, “most Concours judges have no idea what to look for in a Japanese vehicle. If you tell the judges that the Z cars came from Japan with blacked out engine bays and V-8s, they would believe you”. Of course I dismissed this comment. Lo and behold, at my second Concours show, the winning Z car entry had blacked out engine bay, a lot of chromed engine parts, and was not even painted a standard Z car color. Oh well, I was warned:ermm:. I still enter the Concours events but try not to get my hopes up too high. The other side of this coin is that Concours events can be quite a wonderful event for the Z owner. At one local Concours event, I was one of the few individuals personally interviewed at the event (broadcast throughout the show on the golf course), I received a car identification placard (brushed aluminum) that is nicer than just about any trophy I have received, and the people that I met and spoke with were great. Not to mention an exceptional goody bag, first class photos and web PR, parking on the fairway with an ocean view, and car positioned near the show entrance so that virtually everyone in attendance would walk by and see the car. I thought I had died and gone to car show heaven:bunny:. Doubt I will ever be in a better show than that. Along with the great shows and bad shows, there is one issue that us Z-car owners continue face with car events. This issue seems to be….…should I say it…..discrimination. Take a look at the judged categories for most major Car shows. Of course you have a wide array of US car categories; Ford, Chevy, muscle cars, etc. There is typically a European car category or specifically German and Italian, or Jaguar, Porsche and Ferrari . But do you find Asian or Japanese car categories? Rarely. It’s almost as if Nissan and Toyota don’t exist. I find that very odd, and they have been selling cars for quite some time. Anyway, not sure if we will ever get a clear answer as to why Asian cars are not in the mix, but definitely feeling a little discrimination. Along this line, I will be displaying my Z in the upcoming La Jolla Concours. The only category that my car fit in was the “Preservation” category. Oh well, whatever it takes. Anyway, just thought I’d set this up and see where it goes. Rich

I previously posted information on my new book in a thread about this years ZCON in Branson, MO where the book debuted. I was told this might be a more appropriate place on our site for those interested in purchasing a book or knowing more about the history of Datsun Scarab and Scarab Engineering. “Resurrecting the Legend – The Real Datsun Scarab Story,” is a meticulously researched 104 page book documenting the history of the Scarab Engineering Company and its cars from 1975-81. Over the years there have been many myths perpetrated that are addressed and refuted in it. The book is based on personal interviews with the company’s founders and employees, all of whom had gone underground more than 35 years ago. The development of Brian Morrow’s very first Scarab is chronicled as well as the events at each of the three shop locations, leading up to the company finally being sold. With nearly 90 color photographs and illustrations, the book defines what a Scarab is and describes its roll in automotive history. By the mid-1970s, domestic muscle car performance had been emasculated, and by association so had the egos of many of their drivers. Scarab came on the scene at just the right time. The Scarab was so much more than a Datsun Z-car with a transplanted Chevrolet V8 engine: it was a completely reengineered automobile, with each system and component carefully considered, improved or replaced, to realize Morrow’s goal of creating a well-balanced machine capable of shaming all comers. Road Test magazine said it best when it wrote, “Subtle as a chain-link jock strap, the Scarab will not only blow 99 percent of the cars on the road in the weeds, it’ll do it in style.” For those interested in purchasing a copy you can email me at parallax.randy.lewis@gmail.com. (my PayPal is the same). Books, including shipping, are $35 each. Would make an inexpensive gift for Z enthusiasts. I'd be happy to answer questions about the company and its cars here as well.

Hey, just joined. Bought this 71 #33909 off BaT a few days ago form an owner of 30 years. The car is straight, all original sheet metal and rust free so I have a nice base. The car is now with Robert at the 240Z Guild down in Madill, OK for an evaluation and some refreshing. Have had lots and lots of cars but my first Z so this will be a learning experience. Also, I'm decent at the conceptual stuff but an unskilled fairly miserable wrencher so I got that going for me 😎

My 1970 Z has been in the family for nearly 49 years (4/70 build date). I was 9 years old when my dad brought the car home brand new and I distinctly remember the day. It was purchased in Florida (I have the original receipt), where dad worked on occasion, but driven to California where we lived for a number of years. My dad owned it and took excellent care of the car for about 38 years. He passed the car onto me several years before he passed away. The car is very original and mostly unrestored (I did clean up the engine bay). The paint is the original 49 year old factory paint job. The interior is pretty much untouched and still has the original uncracked dash, slightly worn seats, radio, carpet etc. Undercarriage, glass, chrome, and weather stripping are also all original and have never been removed. I don’t really do anything to the car other than drive it several times a year just to stretch it’s legs and keep things moving. It has pretty much been garaged it's entire life. The car still runs very smoothly and is a nice driver. It has a little over 98K miles on it.

I should update the title of this thread to 'Z cars at the Concours and Museums'. My '70 is now on display at the San Diego Auto Museum. They have an exhibit that started Feb 2, 2019 called "Icons, Cars that Drove our Imagination" : https://sdautomuseum.org/exhibit/icons The Roadster is at the Petersen Museum: https://www.petersen.org/1969-datsun-1600-roadster/ Love that free storage!

Here are some of the award links. Would be nice to have a video of the presentation. http://autoweek.com/gallery/car-life/winners-la-jolla-concours Pic # 23 https://www.lajollaconcours.com/2018-winners

Hey everyone just joined I have a 75 260z I will get more pictures soon Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I had to file/sand my crank snout after my stock damper's bolt came loose and messed up my crank. I then bought the BHJ and took the crank and new damper to my machine shop and told them to check the crank for straightness and cracks plus adjust the fit to the proper interference that BHJ recommends. The crank checked fine and the fit was right where BHJ spec'd it. When I installed it, I was a bit nervous about the key moving, but it stayed in place and the damper pulled right in using the bolt and only minimal torque. I'd guess it took less than 15 ft-lbs. of torque to draw it in.

There are actually many that were brought back. Prices are still high. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58665-1972-fairlady-z-value/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62503-77-fairlady-z-on-craigslist/?tab=comments#comment-579787 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-s30-fairlady-z-right-hand-drive-japan-only/ Please post pics and the rest of the gang here can help you out. There are also experts from UK an Japan here who have great knowledge. @HS30-H @kats@Mike B

Damn- id have my 10mm working overtime

I run a 10lb Fidanza flywheel on an OEM clutch. It has stock-like tractability but revs much quicker. The car dynoed at 195whp and 180ftlb, the clutch holds just fine. I run an 8lb flywheel with OEM clutch in my S2000 which made a more notable change in tractability as it doesn't have nearly the low-end torque of the Z. Still much better than the 23-pounder it came with. Both cars are driven in SF Bay Area traffic without issue.

I went with Fidanza flywheel and Exedy clutch and pressure plate for a 280zx Turbo 2+2. Great pedal feel, never slipped under hard use and best of all i have a very revvy motor without slow speed driving issues. It took me 4 hours to do a 1:45 journey to Silverstone in stop/start traffic on Friday. No issues at all. You just have to learn to dial in 500 more rpm when pulling out of junctions but you soon get used to it.

This is probably what you're looking for. The link is sold out, but you could ask.

Your '71 came with a jack, jack handle, lug wrench and wheel chocks. It did not come standard with any of the pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches shown in Kat's thread. Those tools were optional and would have been a parts order from the dealer. None-the-less, that's what they looked like.

Two completely independent posts on the exact same fix. Has to be good!

Off to paint jail On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not

New old stock Nissan tools with tool roll bag. New, vintage, still in original plastic bags---- not a reproduction. Not specific to the Z car alone, but available with many Datsun and early Nissan models as a Dealer available accessory item. Even includes a points file for you purists!

A time capsule!!! Too cool...

Now it has 4 wheels, three carbs and two seats, so i guess it's a 432 now? 😂😂

I took the plunge on both front and rear bumpers from these guys. Here is my experience. 1) order placed June 27 2) order shipped July 3 and tracking info received 3) order received in Ontario Canada July 6. I did have to pay $27 duties. The bumpers were packaged well with bubble wrap and some sort of cloth material. I was very happy with the product. Overall the buying experience was good. Responses to all emails were prompt and I was amazed at the turnaround and quick delivery. Installation: It took about 1 hour to remove and replace the front bumper and the fitment was excellent. However, the rear was another story. I had to chase the threads as mentioned by jfa.series1 which is not a big deal. The first attempt at installing did not go well. The bumper was flush to the body at the rear and the ends were flared out over an inch. After 5 or 6 hours of massaging the brackets and installing/removing etc. I finally got a decent gap all the way around. I determined that the initial install was putting too much pressure on the side brackets causing the flare out. Spacing the bumper at least 3/8” off the back using washers was required to get an acceptable fitment at the ends. Here are some pics

72/240z = 39 5/8th" this car has had a minor front end collision, 77/280z = 39 1/4" no front end damage that I can see.

I'm declaring success! Here are my before and after pics. I've had the painted bumpers on for 7 years so it's going to be an adjustment to now seeing a bright finish. Overall, the fitment went very well. The arc on the center section is a perfect match with the rear valance. The body mount on the left end was welded a bit rearward but the bracket was easily adjusted. Here are significant things to note: The threaded fittings are all M10-1.5, a more coarse thread than OE. New bolts and nuts are required. The threaded fittings all have paint on them, need to cleaned and chased with tap and die. The carriage bolt kit does not contain lock washers. I'll give the vendor some feedback on that. Next up is installing my JDM front bumper to complete the transition to "Oh, Shiney"!

The turn signals say 240, but those are clearly 280 bumpers!!

So, I am actually starting work on this guy again. Slow, but it's coming along. I was sidetracked for a bit with the 'Deja Vu' project and also had some house stuff to fix up. (I actually built a nice custom shed to store stuff in, like car parts. I will get pictures of the shed later. Very happy with how it turned out.) Anyway, I am starting the tear down as you can see in the pics. I have learned that the key to this is to have nicely marked tubs to put your parts in. Engine parts go in the engine tub, interior parts in the interior tub, parts to be zinced go in the zinc tub. And as always, take lots of pics. I love how original the car is; lots of the original wire clamps, heater hoses, smog hoses, bolts that have never been removed and are in good condition. This has been very easy to disassemble so far. Took out the original antenna and bench tested; it works great. Got the motor pulled out last weekend with the help of @Montezuma. Hopefully, I will have this stripped in a month or two, then off to Miguel's for paint. Here are some pics.

If you can get them looking like this to start off with you'll be way ahead. If it ramps up like Evel Kinevel's it's out of whack. The best thing to do is get them opening and closing right side up not upside down like the Just SUs DVD shows. Those are Grose jets and we get the much more sensitive needle valves. I fought this for a year before I figured it out. Car runs better than ever now.

There are two common aspects to fume intrusion, both are related to age and maintenance. First is the length of the exhaust pipe. It should extend beyond the rear valance by several inches so the exhaust gases mix with air that has separated from the body. Second is deterioration of the grommets surrounding the vent hoses entering the passenger compartment behind the vinyl finishing pieces at the rear bulkhead. Some have cited air turbulence caused when the rear tires rotate upward into the rear of the wheel wells. They suggest adding mud flaps there to break up the turbulent rearward of the wheel well. This of course also existed when the cars were new and didn’t cause fume intrusion. While you are at it, check the rear hatch gaskets. Both the one around the perimeter and the air exhaust vents in a series I car. These exhaust vents have rain drains with gaskets that can be compromised over time. Properly maintained, your Z should not suffer from fumes. Don’t settle for less than fume free.

Officially now up for sale is my prized possession, my 1975 Datsun 280Z. This hurts me to write this ad but it's something I must do. I don't drive the car as much as I thought I would, and I am currently starting a new business so financially it makes sense. Before posting it up to Ebay, I figured I would list it here first since this forum has been a huge help with the build. I originally bought the car in August of 2013 and immediately began the restoration process. It was completely stripped down to the chassis, media blasted, rusted areas were removed, and replaced with new metal. The car was then sent to Emmel's Enamels in Denver where it received the full rotisserie treatment. Original Datsun color #904 base coat/clear coat was applied. Countless hours of wet sanding and polishing were done to create a beautiful gloss. All suspension, steering, and undercarriage components were blasted and powder coated semi-gloss black. Every nut, bolt, or hardware that was originally plated was sent out and stripped, and re-plated a beautiful yellow zinc. All rubber was either rejuvenated or replaced with new. Body: 240Z front valance, bumper, grille, and marker lights. 240Z rear bumper. New windshield. BRE rear spoiler. Paint protection film installed on full hood, fenders, and lower valance. Motor: Rebello Racing 3.0 liter stroker. L28 with N42 head. 89mm Cast Pistons. L24 rods with ARP bolts. Turbo oil pump. 63DI 109 Hot B Cam. Triple 45 DCOE Weber Carbs w/ K&N filters. Port and polished head. Port matched intake. 11:1 compression. Engine dyno'd at 301 hp/269 tq Wrinkle red powder coated valve cover. Datsun Spirit MSD plug wires. Datsun Spirit heat shield. MSD 6a Ignition. MSD booster 5 Speed transmission from 81' 280ZX Suspension: BC coilovers with adjustable height, dampening, and camber. Energy Suspension performance polyurethane bushings Wheels/Tires: 15X8 Rota RKR in Black magnesium painted black metallic. Dunlop Direzza 205/55R15 tires. Brakes: Silvermine stage 3 disc brakes. fully rebuilt rear brakes with all new drums and pads. Stainless steel brake lines. New brake booster and master cylinder. Interior: 240Z refurbished steering wheel. Refurbished dash (dash cover currently on). All new bulbs in dash. New carpet, seats, console, headliner and vinyl trim. Retrosound AM/FM/USB/bluetooth stereo with (4) Polk Audio 5.25 speakers. Misc. New battery, new alternator, new starter, new clutch master cylinder, Custom 3" stainless steel exhaust with Dynaflow muffler, Fuel lab regulator, new fuel pump, Skillard fuel tank straps, aluminum 3 core radiator, all new hoses and clamps. Also have original window sticker. I am sure there are a ton of things that I have forgot to mention but this car is in immaculate condition and is basically a brand new car. I have only put approximately 1800 miles on the new motor. This car is an absolute blast to drive and has no shortage of power. Cons: There are some minor flaws here and there, a couple small knicks in the paint. The chrome taillight bezels could probably be re-plated but aren't that bad. The clock and amp gauge are not working. Also missing a spare tire, but have jack and tools. This isn't a concourse restoration but definitely a 9.5 out of 10. Located near Denver, CO. Price is $25000. I am pretty firm on the price, I believe it is a very fair price for the amount of money and quality of work that has gone into this build. I will not accept lowball offers. If you are interested please reply to this thread or text/call me directly at 303-999-7109. Please don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also if there are any specific pictures you want just let me know. Thanks for looking! -Matt Please check out my build thread here for detailed pictures and complete write up. Thank you.

Great thread! My take on it with a vintage Adult Swim koozie and some liquid nails on a 113 green background...

I brought a surprise Z home once. It was in the backyard for about a month before she noticed...

Hi Sean, I ended up ordering a jdm muffler from you! Had it put on 2 months ago and love it. I'm running a 2.5" pipe to it, no additional mufflers or resonators and it's loud as sh@#*t but amazing sounding. Most comparable to a pack of 12 grizzly bears and 13 lions sent up from the depths of hell.

Hi Jeff. If you haven't already decided, I just loaded some videos of mine here :

This afternoon I received the .055 wire (both SS, p/n 9495K91 and carbon steel, p/n 9666K68) that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. Both wire types look to me like they will do the job and measured very close to 0.055" by micrometer. Both wires seem to have about the same spring back capability. That comment is a bit subjective as I just tried to feel the amount of effort it took to bend the wire until it would not flex back to its original state. When I compared the bending effort to do the same test on the original choke wire from my car, it took less effort to bend the wire to the point it would not flex back. I would say that the original choke cable wire has a lower ultimate tensile strength that either of the new wires. Hopefully on the weekend I will be able to test both of the new wire types in my car. FYI, For other Canadians trying to order from McMaster-Carr, don't bother unless you can order through a company or they will cancel your order. I first set up a web account with them and they sent me the message the next morning: "Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from businesses. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders." Luckily with one phone call I was able to add my company name to my web account and then I could place my order. All in all the service was good and I will use them in the future. Mike

I have just placed an order with McMaster Carr for both the SS wire and phosphate coated carbon steel wire above. I will report back with my observations of both products after I receive them.

Here's another idea for choke cable wire if you are worried about corrosion: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9495k91/=11m0s0p It has a little lower tensile strength than A228 music wire but it still looks to have good properties and a good price. McMaster-Carr also has Hi-tensile steel music, Here are the specs for comparison to the SS wire above: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9666k68/=11m0vpx This wire does have a phosphate coating which would give a small amount of corrosion resistance and help decrease friction inside the outer cable sheath.

i bought the same wire for my heater control cables. the outer part i bought at a local bike shop. less than $20 for everything

We just put together a new more economical rear disc conversion kit for the S30 Z car's. $379.00 complete, check it out: https://zcardepot.com/brakes/rear-brakes/disc-brake-conversion-rear-disk-240z-260z-280z-1331.html?search=rear+disc

I use phone/data wire to hold those bolts that thread into another part.

Many times I will put bolts and nuts back on the part after it is removed so you have the correct size and length in the correct location. On some parts this is not possible but on many it is...

At least its not nightmares! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

You're killing me with those garage pics - be still my heart! I've been down the full resto/rebuild path with my car so here's a few quick tips: - don't trust your memory! Bag and tag every nut/screw/bolt/part immediately as it comes off the car. Become the zip bag king of your block. - tag both ends of each electrical connection before they come apart or tag a single end with its function/location. - write down each item to be replaced as soon as you identify it as such. - throw nothing away until after the replacement is fully installed. I fully dismantled my car and then life intervened. When I got back to it 10 years later the above practices paid off big time. Looking forward to your updates.

Thanks for the heads up Jim. He states the unit he has is for 70-76 models and is probably the 6 bar unit as the 10 bar unit was only used in the 69-70 production. I made some tests on the gauge. It appears to be looking for: 0 psi - 83 ohms 25 psi - 60 ohms 50 psi - 40 ohms 90 psi - 24 ohms A note to anyone trying this, the water temp/oil pressure gauge has an internal voltage regulator that is a bi-metal mechanical type that is to slow for our digital meters.

This comes up often enough that it should be posted as a tech article. This is taken from a different posting where Heater Control Panel Illumination was the topic. In case that is what you were looking for: (Original Thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141090#post141090) The Clock not working in the Z's is such an endemic characteristic that it almost seems a basic requirement of the car. If your clock works....it's not a Z. Fortunately, with a little careful effort it can be avoided. Here's how: ......snipped from original thread.... As far as your clock, you can fix it, and if you're careful it will last a long while. I fixed a pair of these a couple of years ago and they're still working great. I even went the extra step to calibrate it and now it only gains 1-2 minutes a day. Not a chronometer but definitely much better than not working. Open the clock housing by removing the two screws holding the face bezel in place. Next gently lift off the clock hands, and carefully remove the face. Below it you should find a black washer and a spring tripod washer. Make sure you don't lose these. Once these are off you can address the main problem with the clock. Added on edit: The sequence of these parts from outside in: Bezel, Minute Hand, Hour Hand, Clock Face, Black Washer, Tripod Washer.) From the back of the case, ( * see add )remove the 3 nuts that hold the clock mechanism inside the case. Once this is done, carefully force the wire and the rubber boot that powers it, INTO the case, and then do the same thing for the connector. If your connector boot (not the one at the case, but the one where the clock connects to the harness) is pliable enough, gently straighten it out and fold in the heat crimped plastic wings so that it will fit through the hole in the case. Added on edit: The bracket that holds the clock to the dash and fits the outside of the case needs to be removed first. There is also a "newer" clock version where the 3 nuts holding the clock mechanism aren't on the back of the case and the bracket that attaches to the case and dash doesn't have the extended "handle". Be careful opening these as EVERYTHING inside pops out the minute you remove the bezel. At this point you should be able to remove the clock mechanism from the metal case. Take a minute to clean out any dust or gunk inside the case, and if you want it to be brighter when illuminated, paint the inside with a WHITE paint, the green lens on the bulb housing will still illuminate the inside as green, but it will be MUCH brighter when you have the lights on. Be careful not to smear the bulb housing. Set this aside to dry. Now, looking at the clock mechanism. You'll note a little motor on the back side of the mechanism. ( * see add ) Get a bottle of sewing machine oil and a long enough needle and apply a small drop (by small, I mean minuscule) to the motor housing and the associated pivot points. You can power it up right away, although personally I let this soak for a bit. Usually the length of time to let the paint dry in the case is sufficient, or overnight. Added on edit: The newer clocks mentioned before have the motor OPEN and with the shaft of the motor being the PENDULUM of the clock. The earlier clocks had a standard clock pendulum but used the motor to WIND the clock spring. The oiling procedures for both are nominally the same. Next, to ensure that it's working, you can either re-assemble and plug in, or you can provide power to the clock via a 12v power supply. It doesn't require a large current as the motor just winds the spring enough to keep the clock going. If everything is working correctly, you should hear and see the motor wind and you'll notice the pendulum gear begin to oscillate back and forth. I then re-assemble the clock and to ensure it doesn't conk out, I leave it plugged into the power supply for a while. If you want at this point you could calibrate the clock, except for one thing. Most power supplies supply 12.0v DC, while in the car you will be working with 12.8v to 13.5v depending on the condition of your battery and connections. To get it "perfect" you would need to match the voltage in your car. This takes a l o n g time, so leaving it in the car would be a problem, unless you don't mind having it dangling off on the side for days-weeks. So, if you don't mind it running a bit fast (as mine does), just hook it up to your power supply continuously for a few days. The procedure is simple. Once the clock is functioning properly, set the time to match a KNOWN good clock. Whether it's your wrist watch, a house clock, digital or analog it doesn't matter. You're just going to be using it to compare what the car clock is doing in relation to that one. After 24 hours or thereabouts as it doesn't matter whether you check every 2 hours or 200 hours, compare the time on both pieces. If the car clock shows 12:30 and your reference is 12:00, the car clock is fast, the opposite would be a slow mechanism. On the back of the clock housing, you'll notice a hole, usually with a milky white plug inserted into it, with markings around it ( + | | | - ). Added on edit: The newer clock has ( S <----> F ) with the arrow ABOVE the hole while some older models had ( F <----> S ) with the arrow BELOW the hole. The directions are the same, but it's easy to think they're reversed. Remove the plug, and inserting a small straight screwdriver into this hole, you'll find a screw in there. Give it a gentle twist in the direction you need to adjust the clock. If fast, tweak the screw by a DEGREE or two (360° in a complete revolution) in the - direction. If slow, in the +. Be careful not to over-adjust, a small adjustment of a degree can be as much / little as 10 minutes per 12 hours or less, so by doing small adjustments you won't swing erratically all over the place. Reset the car clock to coincide with the reference clock. Recheck the two clocks again in another day or so, and repeat the adjustment until they coincide with each other, or you are satisfied with the amount of disparity. Hope this helps. Enrique This post has been promoted to an article

Hi Rich: Boy - there are so many branches to this discussion!! Strictly from my own experience - which has been limited: The reason you don't see Z Cars at most of these larger or more exclusive Concours Events - is because there are not more people like BobC, BobS, Rich, Alan and xs10shl who are both willing and able to take #1 / #2 Concours Quality Z's to the events. I don't belive it is because the event organizers don't want them or won't accept them. Most of these high end Concours Events are ran to raise funds for different worthy Charities. The organizers usually want to attract the largest possible crowds and the widest possible sponsorship. They do that by having the broadest range of interesting and beautiful cars on the field. I believe that as more Collectors finish up their Concours Quality Z Cars - you'll see them at more of these events. It has already been happening for the past 5 or more years. Also - as xs10shl I believe correctly pointed out - a lot depends on who the organizers are and what they are interested in. Over the years that group does change... and we will see more Z Car fans among them in the future. That could be hastened if more Z Car Guys would go volunteer at these events and become more involved in their planning etc. For example; One person is a Judge at both Pebble Beach and Amelia Island - he is also a Vintage Z owner. One person that is a key organizer at Ault Park is on our 240Z Original Owners Register. The main mover and shaker at Amelia is a former SCCA competitor and has always had a real interest in the SCCA C & D Production, as well as the Cam/Am cars, from the late 60's and early 70's - where the DATSUN's were key competitors. Because of the vast array of Classic Cars that show up at these events - it is simply impossible to have an "expert" there to judge every one of them on the basis of being pure stock or perfectly "original". Many of these cars represent 1 of only a handful that were produced or which still exist today. The only documentation, if any exists at all - is that complied by the guy that restored the car. So Judging at most of these events is nothing like Judging a Stock Class at a Marque Only event. Again as xs10shl pointed out - it's a beauty contest. {it is also many times a buddy contest}. For that reason - I usually enter my Z "for display" and enjoy the day. I also agree completely with everyone - you take your Z to these events to enjoy the company of fellow car nuts. Meet lots of nice people, get to see lots of simply splendid automobiles and hope that more people will think of the Z Cars in terms of Classic's - a thing of timeless beauty. One downside - is that many of these Events can be personally expensive to support - but you have to think of it as your contribution to the Charity involved. Come on you guys - how about some pictures at the events! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi all, I have a 260z with a worn out l26 motor, I got my hands on a l28 motor (f54 block p90a head solid lifters) Im going to use an E88 head that I have instead of the p90a, I have the motor stripped down, The block doesn't need to be rebored just honed and would like to keep it that why if possible. I was wondering is it possible to get standard size 86mm flat top pistons to increase my CR. This is my first rebuild so if anyone has anyother sugestions please feel free to advise me, Thanks, Jay.

I lived with a '76 2+2 for 10 years- http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12372&sort=1&cat=500&page=2 As best I remember, the differences are the shell of the car: Doors Door glass, Upper inside door handles(for the back seat), Seats(they fit a coupe , but are made to be moved from the rear too) Seatbelts Dog leg trim Hatch shell Hatch glass Sway bars, Console(has the rear ashtray, but fits a 2 seater!) Hatch sub floor, hatch carpet, Rear Harness(it is just longer than a 2 seater) Drive shaft Shock absorbers Pretty much everything else is interchangeable. I have a rolling '77 2+2 parts car with a clear title at the farm-wiring is bad, no differential mount, a few coupe fitting interior pieces missing, but most of the other parts are in good useable shape (including both the doors)if there is something you need(and aren't in a rush). Will

You don't say whether it is BOTH sides of the hood or just one. If it is both sides, you need to move both hinges downwards in order to get the hood to "level" out with regards to the sugar scoops. Look at the hinge closely and you'll note that there are 3 screws for each of the hinges. These screws provide not only front to back adjustment but also up and down, and to a limited degree side to side (although this is not a parallel side to side adjustment) You've already done some adjustment so we need to back track a bit. First of all look at the general alignment of the hood, and here I'm referencing how the hood fits in the opening between the fenders and to the cowl. Don't look at flush with, but rather evenly spaced on each of the 3 sides. This is your first adjustment that needs to be made. Is the spacing to either side of the hood even with the other side? Is the space even from the top of the hood (closest to the windshield) to the bottom (by the sugar scoops)? How about at the cowl, is the space the same (approximately) as the side space? How does the bottom of the hood line up, as seen from the top, with the sugar scoops? If all those are "ok", and here is a subjective term, because if one side is at 3/8" and the other is 7/16" then it's up to you how anal you want to be as far as aligning it. Then again if one side is 1/2" and the other is barely 1/8", then it isn't in the opening properly and you could possibly have problems. Also with the overall fit. It could be that at the top you have 7/16" on both sides of the top of the hood and on both bottom sides you have 5/16", meaning that the opening tapers down by an 1/8". You can get in there and play with the fender mount, and do a LOT of work, but in reality it's going to be frustrating to get it to align PERFECTLY. Adjustment to the space between the hood and cowl is done by the back and forward placement of the hinges. Side to side is more complex and can involve spacers on one side or the other of the hinge bracket at the hood, or in extreme situations the hinge mount on the side fender. Uneven spacing along the sides of the hood generally shows up on BOTH sides of the hood at the same time, with one side showing the opposite of the other. i.e. the top is narrow on the right side while being too wide on the left top, AND the spacing is too wide on the bottom right and too narrow on the bottom left. If you have spacing differences on one side but NOT the other, then it's more than likely the fender on the uneven side as opposed to the hood. The main key here, the spacing around the hood's 3 sides (cowl and two fenders) should be approximately even. If it is, then you're properly aligned within the opening. Now we can move on to FLUSH. Flush involves looking at the fender and the hood surfaces and how they relate to one another. Let me forewarn you that you're not going to get them to line up exactly. If you'll note the fender has a slope TOWARDS the engine compartment while the hood has a slope towards the fender. What you need to do is level the hood with regards to the fender in such a manner as to not make it look like a STEP. Before you can align the hood to the fender and sugar scoop, make sure the sugar scoop outline is in fact aligned to the fender. I have seen Z's where the sugar scoop is actually out of line with regards to the fender, i.e. the scoops top edge "dives" down from the top edge of the fender. This is going to make it next to impossible to align the front (or bottom) of the hood to the sugar scoops, since it's top edge isn't in two separate pieces and it should be what you align your scoops to, and not the other way around. However, if the scoops are properly mounted then the generally profile of the fender / scoop should match the profile of the hood. Ok, presuming no problems with scoop to fender. If at the top of the hood (by the cowl) it is flush with the cowl and the top of the fenders and the inspection panels, then you're fine. If not, check the hood latch pin first. This is the MAIN component that will pull down the hood to the level it needs to be. Take note that the rubber bumper stops on the side of the cowl do in fact push on the hood, and you need to adjust them as well. What I do is to first lower the bump stops below the level I'm working to. Then using the hood latch I adjust the hood until it rides even with the cowl and the fenders, or the "best" fit I can. Then I adjust the bump stops UP to support the hood and not push up on the corners. Then moving down the hood. The edges should line up with the fenders all the way down to the sugar scoops. Your post says that at the front is where you're having a problem. Again presuming both sides. Open the hood, look at the hinge and note that you can adjust it front to back as mentioned before, or within a given range up and down as well as how and where it pivots. Sometimes the adjustment to get it lined up in front by the sugar scoops involves bringing the front edge of both hinges down a bit, while leaving the back edge of the hinges at the same height. This essentially shifts the pivot point (where the scissors cross) downwards and hence lowers just the front part of the hood while generally NOT moving the back edge of the hood down. (it will change it's angle slightly, but not a lot, as a lot is NOT required). You'll have to do both hinges evenly in order to align both sugarscoops. Loosen the back bolt just enough that it will alow the hinge bracket to shift, but not move freely. Then loosen the front bolts. Be careful here, it might involve closing the hood, reaching up and behind the grill in order to get to the hinge mounting bolts (that is NOT the ones that mount the hood to the hinge, but rather the ones that mount the hinge to the car). loosen them, carefully open the hood, push down gently until you can feel or see the front edge of the hinge shift, then tighten everything back up and check for fit. You'll do this several times until it finally does what you need / want it to. Now, you also have a small amount of adjustment on the hinge to hood mounting bolts, although this is usually a very small amount in relation to the hinge base adjustment. Hopefully this helped clarify it. (sorry for the length, but panel adjustment is somewhat of an art.) Enrique Scanlon