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Just read the BAT ad for the red series 1. It is interesting that they now dont mention the colour change from green to red as was mentioned in the Hagerty Marketplace ad. The only indication is shown in listing photograph 98 of an old invoice dated 1970 something which mentions the colour of the car as green. As zspert mentioned earlier the colour change may be a factor hurting the price of this one.

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

I plan on making a driving video just for the sound ! I installed these 75mm stacks from TTT. Their ad seemed humorous about scaring the guy in front of you at the track -BUT-these things sound glorious! Never driven a Datsun race car , but the only thing missing is an open header -lol. OMG they sound good. I hope a video will capture the sound correctly. About everyone I've taken a ride have been blown away.

Ok gang - after it sitting for another few weeks I started it with great difficulty, but after it started, it ran great. I was curious so I looked under the car and the filter between the tank and the pump's gas was a cloudy yellow. I read online that it is the gas and water separating - could that have rusted the pump and I broke it free? If the rollers are stainless steel/aluminum like @Zed Head said, maybe it was crystalized fuel? The cloudy yellow fuel is confusing though. As a side note, I'd drain the tank but it is quite literally full and I don't know where to get rid of that much fuel, so I'll continue driving it and add gas when it gets down to the quarterish mark. With that and the cloudy yellow fuel in the pre-pump filter in mind, would adding Heet to the tank help? I added fuel stabilizer a few weeks ago and ran it for about 30 minutes, but the fuel is already fouling so I don't think that will do all that much.

You meant N47 =MN47

I would also measure charging voltage with the engine running. Maybe you are over-charging. At higher than idle RPM, where max output would be high. "Possible causes are: Faulty charging system (stuck or shorted regulator/alternator)"

Where did the floor pan lip weld. My original was over the groove and the groove was filled with a black material. Does it weld to the bottom lip of the groove?

What a clever little piece! Never heard of that either

There are some clips that go on the cowl to protect the body. Similar to the 240z but a different part number. Can't even find a picture of those datsun 66312-A4900 A good glovebox A dome light for the cargo area of the wagon. They are different than the center domelight. I know I saw one for sale somewhere not that long ago but can't find it now Thanks, Charles

Never mind. Just my poor memory. They're out there. Blue on blue seems uncommon though.

Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.

Just incase you know anyone interested :) Something a bit different- a competition to win a 240z reprodution bundle. Win the bundle- £5 ticket. Enter Raffle to Win Datsun 240z series 1 reproduction bun...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. *not to be used with hot embers & Datsun 240z series 1

I bought some service tools off the bay decades ago. Along with two boxes, here's what I have.

The new flahers fixed the issue. We also connected the brake lights up so the JDM rear taillights are all connected and work properly

I think that the 720 71B's might be shorter than the ones frm the Z's. Something to check. Here's a very long thread from a guy who delved deep deep deep in to the 71B transmissions. HybridZHigh RPM shifting dynamicsTrying to understand the dynamics of high RPM shifting. Specifically why does my 1983 FS5W71B tend to grind slightly when shifting from 1st to 2nd at 7300rpm. When I rebuilt this tranny, i carefully l

Thanks Yes, I have found Zcardepot to be good communicators too.

Remove that variable and have it rebuilt. It looks completely worn out. Have them powder coat it while they have it.

Technics or tactics . They can be a MFers . I use the spot weld cutters you can buy cheaply anywhere . Predrill small hole for center pin and saw away . I did buy a pneumatic drill just for spot weld but it’s limited where it can be used . Finding the center of the spot weld helps to get all of the weld

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

Yeah, I don’t think my 240Z bracket would work since the carb spacing is closer together on the L20. I need to hunt down someone near me with a 510 to prototype a kit.

Don't assume that new aftermarket u-joints will be better/tighter than used Nissan joints. Nissan's specification is very precise. Each joint came with clips of varying thickness so that play could be adjusted and set correctly. New aftermarket joints come with one clip thickness for all. I replaced a set on my car and they didn't seem any better. I actually removed them all and returned them. They were Precision from O'Reilly's. The Nissan joints are greaseable and are often just fine after a shot of new grease.

Pretty much rust free pieces from a 70 . Drivers side A pillar section and B pillar section . I won’t need these for my project . 250$ shipped for both

Cats can stop up and restrict the exhaust

Its a long shot, but putting a feeler out for a 3.364 R200. Looks like only the '79 4 seater manual transmission s130s had them stateside.

@Mike It's still a bot!!