Topics Last 30 Days

I'm in the middle of a restoration and I want to confirm what transmission I have. I would get markings off the trans but I'm out of town. Is it a 4 or 5 speed? Came out of a 1977 280z. When driving it I only had 4 gears but I felt like there should have been 5 but it wouldnt go in.

Thats a very good bit to know and it totally makes sense. I'll have to keep that in mind when I finalize the fuel system. Since my fuel tank and mount is currently toast, I'm going to sub in a 3g fuel can for now. I've got the pump installed for now, im not happy with how it mounts so ill have to figure something out. I havent had a chance to look for a right angle nipple that might be able to save me some space. The rusty tire tub came in useful as I was able to run the fuel lines through it. Its just temporary to see if I can get the car running. Since I got the pump wired up I decided to see if pump would run and I got nothing. I dont think it has power. I didnt spend any time diagnosing it, I was happy to accomplish the little bit I did. I'm going to flip through the FSM and see what testing procedures they have. Obviously the fuse and maybe a fuel pump relay are at the top of my list. On a side note, I am having a really hard time with my shrink tube terminal connectors and I was wondering if you guys can suggest some better ones. I purchased these amazon terminals and I just cant get them to crimp for a damn. I have 3 different types of crimpers. The old fashion ones and two of the ratcheting kind. I had a couple of the normal terminals and they crimp really nice and tight, but for some reason the shrink tube ones just wont bite. Maybe I just have the wrong jaw. Can anyone also suggest some decent vacuum line? Im not a fan of the silicon ones and all the line I can find is super thick.

Green/White = Positive for gauge lights Red/Blue = Returns gauge lights to the rheostat (gauge light dimmer) Blue = Accessory (Key Switched) Constant power would be come from the cigarette lighter (Blue/White)

Awesome, that's exactly what I was hoping to hear, thanks @Zed Head. Does it matter that one drum's shoes are currently further-in than the other side's since I didn't need to loosen the passenger side's shoes to get the drum off/on but I needed to loosen the drivers side's? Basically I'm asking if the drums will permanently be unevenly tight, or if the automatic adjustment system will handle tightening the drivers side only so it matches the passenger's side and if that system has an adjustment limit. As an extreme example, if the drums are pulled all the way in using the adjustment wheel, would pulling the emergency brake 100 times get the car to the same/correct shoe adjustment level as if someone followed the FSM using the method you noted (albeit just taking considerably longer by contrast)? Also, the auto adjustment system is only calibrated using the emergency brake and not the brake pedal, right?

Up front in the area of the console look for blue tape around the wire harness. That's where you should find the female plug with 2 wires. Put a jumper across the plug and you should then have power back at the tank for the electric pump. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop to shut off the pump in the event of a crash.

🤣 OMG... I used to do that... Thank goodness I haven't seen a phone cord in decades!

Just got the harmonic balancer Back. Looks really good. Namerow asked for pictures.

Pair of original wiper arms, stainless steel. no rust, marked left and right. $60.

thanks for all the help, I did install the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch last year as it must have been an oversite when I restored the car years ago, it did help big time. never thought to look up after the bottom hatch was painted and installed. thanks for making me look again at the license plate wire grommet which was replaced back then. years ago, I think back in the 90s I did purchase a black rear carpeted 6x9 speaker box from motorsport auto that replaces the back cover for the taillights. what I just found was the bass tube in the center has an open 2" plastic pipe that lets the bass out from behind the 6x9" speakers into the cabin. so, I used some black gorilla tape and closed up the pipe on the inside. if it does help which I now think it will then I don't mind losing some bass and having better air in the cabin. that weatherstrip in the rain gutter seems useless to me maybe that is why I never replaced it back then. but it was cheap enough that I will just replace it, so it is original.

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

I'm fortunate that I have multiple daily drivers, rather than just one. In summer time the 240Z is my daily, along with a R53 Mini Cooper S, a 1999 Mazda Miata Sport, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Toyota GR86. For load hauling and snow runs the Subaru legacy wagon gets the nod. Between my wife, my son and myself we need at least 3 dailies!

I’m interested in your used tank. I’m in San Jose California. I remember 30 years ago the fuel tank in my 1956 GMC truck I had resealed, but I’m not sure that those kind of shops are even still around because of the chemicals in the EPA restrictions. My Z is 54 years old and from what I could tell, which, of course is limited with the Bore scope, it’s very rusted

It’s a great video! Kats

Just got this back today from Sanderson's headers South Francisco it's ceramic coated inside and out $150. Nice people quality workmanship

The kit I purchased was from Motorsports Auto. I had to remove all of the spacers so my head did not hit the roof. As mentioned, I want to contour the seat foam so I sit down in the foam and not on top of it. The foam is very stiff and does not conform to your body. Looking for suggestions as best method to contour for foam.

I used 5/8"-long pan head Phillips sheet metal screws on the sides up front. I don't know how to specifically describe sheet metal screws. For the three screws in the "glove bin" I used M5-0.8x12 countersunk Phillips screws. All the screw heads were spray painted flat black. The heads of the M5 screws I used are a smaller maximum diameter than are the countersink holes in the bin so perhaps the OEM screws have a special head to make them flush with the bin floor. My 1972 FSM (Section 123) shows holes for the front screws (for "floor finishers" from Aug '71 it says) but no screws are shown in the drawing. The rear three screws are likewise nowhere to be seen.

Any clue of the 3 to 5 screws type and lenght for the center console of a 1972 240z?

No doubt, the camera and video have been my best friends through this journey. Once I get under there if it looks like swapping the old ones out are going to require a lift i may just wait and get someone to do it for me.

Go down to the "Push Rod Considerations" section of this link: https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

Yes, for the hand throttle

I remember the vendor, 'Auto World', from back in the 1960's (I still have their 1965 catalog sitting on my book shelf). I didn't realize that they were still in business. The website pays some homage to the original operation, but doesn't make it clear whether there's a historical link between 'then' and 'now'... "Oscar Koveleski founded Auto World in the basement of his home in Scranton, Pennsylvania in 1958. The small mail order hobby business grew to great proportions and became known for its annual product catalogs, which were filled with every car-related item an adolescent hobbyist might desire." The current iteration of Auto World is based in South Bend, Indiana.