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So got out there yesterday and today for a little bit. Pulled the valve cover and dumped some oil everywhere. Also decided to pull the cooling fan and shroud so I could have access to the front of the engine a little better. I cranked the engine over by hand and felt really smooth. I decided to try the video function of the bore scope and see if I could post it. Mainly wanted to see what the cylinder was doing while I was cranking. I chose cylinder 3 since it was the worst looking. Actually doesnt look that bad. Edit* Appartley this video has to be downloaded, so im uploading to youtube. And lastly, here is a video of the engine cranking over. Sounds like it moves nicely, I hear a little bit of clattering at the end of the cycle. IMG_0026.MOV The borescope is just a cheap Amazon peice. I'm pretty happy with it. I wasnt expecting to use it a lot so I didnt want an expensive one. If I had to do over again, I might look into a four way articulating. The two way is fine, just have to twist the spine to get it where i want. Amazon Teslong Bore-scope While I was at it, I also checked for spark. I have none. Something about this was mentioned when I bought it, but I thought it was just one cylinder. The fuel line was diconnected 'just in case' I know the fuel is bad and the car also came with a new fuel pump. I need to rewatch one of the new 'roadkill' episodes they put out recently to test a coil. I think they are trying to revive the roadkill format via their respective youtube channels. They put out a 4h long episode on Rotsun between the two of them. I could totally just google, but where is the fun in that. Shameless promo, cause this is the car and show format that made me want to get a project. I really enjoy the problem solving.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this. I'm working out of town and only have weekends to visit my car. I think the problem may of been resolved or at least I can drive the car for more than 1/2 hour without the ignition failing. It must of been that extra ballast resistor or a high resistance from the taped splice. The car has been working for 7-8 years and only periodically had ignition issues so I'm assuming one or more weak links in the ignition began to fail. Here's the wiring as it stands now. Some of the colors were hard to see until I cleaned the wires off with solvent.

This is a nice car and you can see it's well taken care of. I wonder if the dad was a member of this club.

I'm using a Crane/Fast PS20 Fireball with 1.4 OHM coil, no ballast resistor. I wanted all that old stuff gone, I've never fooled with points except file down the contact point on my go-kart. Cool little file too. It starts missing with the wider gap up high but from what I remember I've always ran the wider gap? Grasping at straws, the easy ones.

I'd take a test light or meter and see if the wire to the small spade connection on the solenoid is getting power when you turn the key to Start. You might have a cylinder full of coolant. Who knows. If you're getting power to the solenoid but it doesn't do its thing then you might have a bad starter/starter solenoid. Hit it with a hammer.

Sorry to resurrect this old of a thread (it's been informative in my research regarding luggage straps) but how cool is that?! The S30 with the VIN HLS30 00240. That's a keeper!

Hi Trisha, see post on 240Z International Registry Facebook Page. Kelly Jean is looking for pictures like your car. She wants to make a clock as it was her first car. Cheers, Kirk

Better question is what is that carb for... Sorry, no love for those with me.

I'm happy with how the dove tails turned out so I'll go ahead and have a batch made up if anyone needs them for a restoration. Just sourcing the right JIS screws.

240 or 260 manual wanted to trade for 1969 Plymouth GTX 440 4-speed

I'm really impressed with the carburetor set-up. That's a very valuable car, and with some provenance, perhaps? That should be worth at least one year of med school!

Light. Console. I think G/W is clearance, gauge lighting, and etc. but I'll look... 72_dash_2.pdf The 240Z dash I have has that same connector - the entire dash and harness is unconnected so... But - the G/W on that connector traces to the small 6-pin Body Harness connector shown in that .pdf - G/W in the upper right corner of the connector. The body harness G/W goes back to the clearance lighting in the tail. Trace that Red - I think it may well go to the front (engine bay harness) and the two hidden Fog Lamp connectors in the harness as it spans the radiator core support. And as you know the US model did not come with a Fog Lamp Switch from the factory so that would be an unused connector if what I said is true. Oh, if you look at the first wiring diagram in the FSM (not the "US and Canada Only" schematic) you'll see Fog Lamps and the connector for the Fog Lamp Switch. BUT, it'll confuse you because it shows a R and an RG wire to the switch. If you trace the RG, you'll see that it "tees" off a GW. So maybe the schematic doesn't follow the harness build exactly or vise-versa...

If you're going to have a muffler shop do it why not them look at it and use their database to find one. If you're going to do it yourself, then trying the no muffler twin stack should be easy. If the dimensions are correct. Looks like what you have is clamped on, not welded. So trying some things should be easy.

Well, no one came to my aid on this matter so I've solved it as best I could using a metric bolt to replace the missing plastic pin. I measured the left side plastic pin diameter as approximately 4.7 mm. This is close to the 4.7 mm diameter that I measured on a 5M bolt's threads. The hole on the tab on that side of the cover comes in at 5.3 mm so there is about 0.6 mm of "slop" when the pin is in the hole. The hole on the right side tab measured 5.8 mm, almost exactly the diameter I measured for the threads on an M6 bolt. I was a bit squeamish about using an M6 bolt as there would little, if any, of the kind of slop as exists on the other side. So, an M5 bolt it was. But I do have the option of swapping in an M6 if I feel the need. I started by creating a small divot in the middle of the broken pin's location. Then, starting with a 1/16" drill bit (Hey, I ain't got metric drill bits), I gradually increased the hole size step-by-step using the next larger drill bit until i finished with 5/32" bit. I then slowly tapped the hole with a 5 mm-0.8 tap. Note that my tap and die set says to use an 11/64" drill for this but I wanted to have plenty of plastic "meat" for the tap to bite into. With that done, I took a 5M-0.8 x 30 bolt and cut off the hex head to give me a crude stud. I threaded this into my hole so that just a little tip of the stud showed on the side where the tab would eventually be. I then put the cover on the remaining plastic pin and, using needle-nose pliers, rotated the M5 stud so it engaged with the tab hole and then a bit more for good measure. I was going to epoxy the M5 stud into place but decided to not do so now at least because things are working well and it will be easy to retract the stud if I need to remove the cover at some point. I LOVE field engineering.

Bushings.

I was busy with sorting out some things in life, recently, so no big progress on the Car project side, aside from changing all family cars to winter tires. To keep my spirits up, the postal guy brought new stuff almost daily. The first was a nice delivery of an EU-spec front spoiler and a set of EU-spec front lower corner valances. Thanks a lot @HS30-H for your support, once again! One of them was even a NOS item with the Nissan stickers on it: Then, I also got a small delivery from 240Zrubberparts.com. I was looking for that KM-1520ZC replacement faceplates and I have to say it looks quite good. I was even gifted a set of label stickers for the radio, which I really appreciate. This will come in very handy when come to the planned restoration of the Radio. I hope to be back on the car project again soon. I've discussed a few next steps with a specialist and I hope the project gets a big boost next year, but I also hope to be able to finish a few things in the coming weeks.

Excellent analogy. That's a great philosophical thought exercise. Wonder what the right answer is.........

The first two pics are some 510 4 door outer door/window trim pieces. The second two are 510 2 door outer door/window trim pieces. The rubber looks to be the same shape to me for each of them. The next two pics show the groove on the inside top edge of the door where the inner rubber w/s goes. It is a simple u channel. The last three pictures are of NOS inner rubber weather strips for the 2 door. The front and rear doors of the wagon should use the same inner and outer w/s from a design standpoint, right?

Looks like I have mostly parts candidates in the hoard. None of then work smoothly.

Weak chatbot? Where are the emojis?

For the BEST rubber in your Datsun door..... simply use.. Rubbers - S30 World

That is true, but it could have been converted from auto. I'm just throwing out bread crumbs. Something is drawing too much current. Find the thing.

Just posted today on eBay. Make an offer? eBayDatsun 240Z 3 Screw Round-top Carburetors, W/ E46 Manifol...Nissan Datsun 240Z Hitachi 3 Screw Round Top Carburetors, E46 Manifold, with Air cleaner. This set up was removed from a wrecked 240Z. These partshave been sitting unused for a while so will obviously

I'm getting very close, one carb at a time. One photo is the view looking down the nozzle, which has been set to 10 turns. Once there is fuel, I can shine a flashlight down the hole and see the level, I'm usually either too high or too low, trying to find that sweet spot. The other photo is the rear float, you can see the weight that was added so when the bowl is at the proper level, the float is level, not canted, where it would hit the ceiling of the bowl. There has been a lot of discussion on that in this thread. One of the photos shows the weights that were fabricated. BTW, although the carbs are from a 240z, they are being installed on a 260z, getting rid of the flat tops. Jim emptech@surewest.net